2002 JEEP LIBERTY engine block

(9) With balance shaft keyways pointing up (12
o'clock) slide the balance shaft sprocket onto the nose
of the balance shaft. The balance shaft may have to
be pushed in slightly to allow for clearance.
NOTE: THE TIMING MARK ON THE SPROCKET, THE
(LOWER) NICKEL PLATED LINK, AND THE ARROW
ON THE SIDE OF THE GEAR COVER SHOULD LINE
UP WHEN THE BALANCE SHAFTS ARE TIMED
CORRECTLY.
(10) If the sprockets are timed correctly, install the
balance shaft bolts and tighten to 28 N´m (250 in.
lbs.). A wood block placed between crankcase and
crankshaft counterbalance will prevent crankshaft
and gear rotation.(11)CHAIN TENSIONING:
(a) Install chain tensioner loosely assembled.
(b) Position guide on double ended stud making
sure tab on the guide fits into slot on the gear
cover. Install and tighten nut/washer assembly to
12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(c) Place a shim 1 mm (0.039 in.) thick x 70 mm
(2.75 in.) long or between tensioner and chain.
Push tensioner and shim up against the chain.
Apply firm pressure 2.5±3 Kg (5.5±6.6 lbs.)
directly behind the adjustment slot to take up
all slack.Chain must have shoe radius contact as
shown in (Fig. 115).
(d) With the load applied, tighten top tensioner
bolt first, then bottom pivot bolt. Tighten bolts to
12 N´m (105 in. lbs.). Remove shim.
(e) Install carrier covers and tighten screws to
12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(12) Install pick-up tube and oil pan.
(13) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to cor-
rect level.
Fig. 114 Balance Shaft Timing
1 - MARK ON SPROCKET
2 - KEYWAYS UP
3 - ALIGN MARKS
4 - PLATED LINK
5 - PARTING LINE (BEDPLATE TO BLOCK)
6 - PLATED LINK
Fig. 115 Chain Tension Adjustment
1 - 1MM (0.039 IN.) SHIM
2 - TENSIONER (ADJUSTER) BOLT
3 - PIVOT BOLT
KJENGINE9s-63
BALANCE SHAFT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Place accelerator pedal assembly over 2 studs
(Fig. 1) protruding from floor pan.
(2) Install 2 mounting nuts. Refer to torque speci-
fications.
(3) Slide throttle cable into opening slot in top of
pedal arm.
(4) Push plastic cable retainer (clip) into accelera-
tor pedal arm opening until it snaps into place.
(5) Before starting engine, operate accelerator
pedal to check for any binding.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
2.4L
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is mounted
into the right front side of the cylinder block (Fig. 2).
It is positioned and bolted into a machined hole.
3.7L
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is mounted
into the right rear side of the cylinder block (Fig. 3).
It is positioned and bolted into a machined hole.
Fig. 1 ACCELERATOR PEDAL/BRACKET ASSEMBLY
1 - METAL THROTTLE CABLE CLIP
2 - THROTTLE CABLE
3 - PLASTIC CABLE RETAINER
4 - PEDAL/BRACKET ASSEMBLY
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING NUTS (2)
6 - PEDAL MOUNTING STUDS (2)
Fig. 2 CKP SENSOR LOCATION-2.4L
1 - RIGHT FRONT ENGINE MOUNT
2 - CKP SENSOR
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
4 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 3 CKP - 3.7L
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - CKP SENSOR
3 - O-RING
14 - 30 FUEL INJECTIONKJ
ACCELERATOR PEDAL (Continued)

OPERATION
2.4L
Engine speed and crankshaft position are provided
through the CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor. The
sensor generates pulses that are the input sent to the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM inter-
prets the sensor input to determine the crankshaft
position. The PCM then uses this position, along with
other inputs, to determine injector sequence and igni-
tion timing.
The sensor is a hall effect device combined with an
internal magnet. It is also sensitive to steel within a
certain distance from it.
A tonewheel (targetwheel) is a part of the engine
crankshaft (Fig. 4). This tonewheel has sets of
notches at its outer edge.
The notches cause a pulse to be generated when
they pass under the sensor. The pulses are the input
to the PCM.
3.7L
Engine speed and crankshaft position are provided
through the CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor. The
sensor generates pulses that are the input sent to the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM inter-
prets the sensor input to determine the crankshaft
position. The PCM then uses this position, along with
other inputs, to determine injector sequence and igni-
tion timing.
The sensor is a hall effect device combined with an
internal magnet. It is also sensitive to steel within a
certain distance from it.A tonewheel (targetwheel) is bolted to the engine
crankshaft (Fig. 5). This tonewheel has sets of
notches at its outer edge (Fig. 5).
The notches cause a pulse to be generated when
they pass under the sensor. The pulses are the input
to the PCM.
REMOVAL
2.4L
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is mounted
into the right front side of the cylinder block (Fig. 6).
It is positioned and bolted into a machined hole.
(1) Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
(2) Remove sensor bolt.
(3) Carefully pry sensor from cylinder block in a
rocking action.
(4) Check condition of sensor o-ring (Fig. 7).
3.7L
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is mounted
into the right rear side of the cylinder block (Fig. 8).
It is positioned and bolted into a machined hole.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
(3) Remove sensor mounting bolt (Fig. 8).
(4) Carefully remove sensor from cylinder block in
a rocking and twisting action.
(5) Check condition of sensor o-ring.
Fig. 4 CKP OPERATION-2.4L
1 - NOTCHES
2 - CRANKSHAFT
Fig. 5 CKP OPERATION-3.7L
1 - TONEWHEEL
2 - NOTCHES
3 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - CRANKSHAFT
KJFUEL INJECTION 14 - 31
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (Continued)

INSTALLATION
2.4L
(1) Clean out machined hole in engine block.
(2) Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor
o-ring.(3) Install sensor into engine block with a slight
rocking action. Do not twist sensor into position as
damage to o-ring may result.
CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt,
be sure sensor is completely flush to cylinder
block. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor
mounting tang may result.
(4) Install mounting bolt and tighten to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
3.7L
(1) Clean out machined hole in engine block.
(2) Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor
o-ring.
(3) Install sensor into engine block with a slight
rocking and twisting action.
CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt,
be sure sensor is completely flush to cylinder
block. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor
mounting tang may result.
(4) Install mounting bolt and tighten to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(6) Lower vehicle.
Fig. 6 CKP SENSOR LOCATION-2.4L
1 - RIGHT FRONT ENGINE MOUNT
2 - CKP SENSOR
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
4 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 7 CKP AND O-RING-2.4L
1 - CKP SENSOR
2 - O-RING
Fig. 8 CKP - 3.7L
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - CKP SENSOR
3 - O-RING
14 - 32 FUEL INJECTIONKJ
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
23 - 2 BODYKJ
BODY (Continued)

Use an adjustable vacuum test set (Special Tool
C-3707-B) and a suitable vacuum pump to test the
HVAC vacuum control system. With a finger placed
over the end of the vacuum test hose probe (Fig. 3),
adjust the bleed valve on the test set gauge to obtain
a vacuum of exactly 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.). Release and
block the end of the probe several times to verify that
the vacuum reading returns to the exact 27 kPa (8
in. Hg.) setting. Otherwise, a false reading will be
obtained during testing.
VACUUM CHECK VALVE
(1) Remove the vacuum check valve. The valve is
located in the vacuum supply tube (black) at the
HVAC system vacuum tee.
(2) Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the
A/C Heater Control side of the valve. When con-
nected to this side of the check valve, no vacuum
should pass and the test set gauge should return to
the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting. If OK, go to Step 3. If
not OK, replace the faulty valve.
(3) Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the
engine vacuum side of the valve. When connected to
this side of the check valve, vacuum should flow
through the valve without restriction. If not OK,
replace the faulty valve.
A/C HEATER CONTROLS
(1) Connect the test set vacuum probe to the
HVAC vacuum supply (black) tube at the tee in the
engine compartment. Position the test set gauge so
that it can be viewed from the passenger compart-
ment.(2) Place the A/C Heater Mode Control switch
knob in each mode position, one position at a time,
and pause after each selection. The test set gauge
should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting
shortly after each selection is made. If not OK, a
component or vacuum line in the vacuum circuit of
the selected mode has a leak. See the procedure in
Locating Vacuum Leaks.
CAUTION: Do not use lubricant on the switch ports
or in the holes in the plug, as lubricant will ruin the
vacuum valve in the switch. A drop of clean water
in the connector plug holes will help the connector
slide onto the switch ports.
LOCATING VACUUM LEAKS
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL
AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(1) Disconnect the vacuum harness connector from
the back of the HVAC control head(Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/A/C
HEATER CONTROL - REMOVAL).
(2) Connect the test set vacuum hose probe to each
port in the HVAC housing half of the vacuum har-
ness connector, one port at a time, and pause after
each connection. The test set gauge should return to
the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting shortly after each con-
nection is made. If OK, replace the faulty A/C Heater
Control. If not OK, go to Step 3.
(3) Determine the vacuum line color of the vacuum
circuit that is leaking. To determine the vacuum line
colors, refer to the Vacuum Circuits chart (Fig. 4).
(4) Disconnect and plug the vacuum line from the
component (fitting, actuator, valve, switch, or reser-
voir) on the other end of the leaking circuit. Instru-
ment panel disassembly or removal may be necessary
to gain access to some components. See the appropri-
ate service procedures.
Fig. 3 ADJUST VACUUM TEST BLEED VALVE
1 - VACUUM PUMP TOOL C-4289
2 - VACUUM TEST SET C-3707
3 - BLEED VALVE
4 - PROBE
KJHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 24 - 7
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)

A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION - 3.7L and 2.4L
The compressor clutch assembly consists of a sta-
tionary electromagnetic coil, a rotor bearing and
rotor assembly, and a clutch plate (Fig. 1). The elec-
tromagnetic coil unit and the rotor bearing and rotor
assembly are each retained on the nose of the com-
pressor front housing with snap rings. The clutch
plate is keyed to the compressor shaft and secured
with a nut. These components provide the means to
engage and disengage the compressor from the
engine serpentine accessory drive belt.
OPERATION - 3.7L and 2.4L
When the clutch coil is energized, it magnetically
draws the clutch into contact with the rotor and
drives the compressor shaft. When the coil is not
energized, the rotor freewheels on the clutch rotor
bearing, which is part of the rotor. The compressor
clutch and coil are the only serviced parts on the
compressor.
The compressor clutch engagement is controlled by
several components: the A/C Heater mode control
switch, the A/C low pressure switch, the A/C high
pressure switch, the compressor clutch relay, and the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM may
delay compressor clutch engagement for up to thirty
seconds. Refer to Electronic Control Modules for
more information on the PCM controls.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). The battery must
be fully-charged before performing the following
tests. Refer to Battery for more information.
(1) Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale) in
series with the clutch coil terminal. Use a voltmeter
(0 to 20 volt scale) with clip-type leads for measuring
the voltage across the battery and the compressor
clutch coil.
(2) With the A/C Heater mode control switch in
any A/C mode, and the blower motor switch in the
lowest speed position, start the engine and run it at
normal idle.
(3) The compressor clutch coil voltage should read
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage. If there is
voltage at the clutch coil, but the reading is not
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage, test the clutch
coil feed circuit for excessive voltage drop and repair
as required. If there is no voltage reading at the
clutch coil, use a DRB IIItscan tool and (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information) for testing of the
compressor clutch circuit and PCM control. The fol-
lowing components must be checked and repaired as
required before you can complete testing of the clutch
coil:
²Fuses in the junction block and the Power Dis-
tribution Center (PDC)
²A/C heater mode control switch
²Compressor clutch relay
²A/C high pressure switch
²A/C low pressure switch
²Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
(4) The compressor clutch coil is acceptable if the
current draw measured at the clutch coil is 2.0 to 3.9
amperes with the electrical system voltage at 11.5 to
12.5 volts. This should only be checked with the work
area temperature at 21É C (70É F). If system voltage
is more than 12.5 volts, add electrical loads by turn-
ing on electrical accessories until the system voltage
drops below 12.5 volts.
(a) If the clutch coil current reading is four
amperes or more, the coil is shorted and should be
replaced.
(b) If the clutch coil current reading is zero, the
coil is open and should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed,
cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty
times (five seconds on, then five seconds off). During
this procedure, set the A/C Heater control to the
Recirculation Mode, the blower motor switch in the
highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500
Fig. 1 COMPRESSOR CLUTCH - TYPICAL
1 - CLUTCH PLATE
2 - NOT USED ON KJ
3 - ROTOR
4 - COIL
5 - CLUTCH SHIMS
6 - SNAP RING
7 - SNAP RING
24 - 12 CONTROLSKJ

(3) To duplicate a high-ambient temperature condi-
tion (high head pressure), restrict the air flow
through the condenser. Install a manifold gauge set
to be certain that the discharge pressure does not
exceed 2760 kPa (400 psi).
(4) Check the refrigerant system plumbing for
incorrect routing, rubbing or interference, which can
cause unusual noises. Also check the refrigerant lines
for kinks or sharp bends that will restrict refrigerant
flow, which can cause noises. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAU-
TION)
(5) If the noise is from opening and closing of the
high pressure relief valve, evacuate and recharge the
refrigerant system. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE)
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIG-
ERANT SYSTEM CHARGE) If the high pressure
relief valve still does not seat properly, replace the
compressor.
(6) If the noise is from liquid slugging on the suc-
tion line, replace the accumulator. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/AC-
CUMULATOR - REMOVAL) Check the refrigerant oil
level and the refrigerant system charge. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
REFRIGERANT OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - SPECIFICATIONS - CHARGE
CAPACITY) If the liquid slugging condition continues
following accumulator replacement, replace the com-
pressor. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR -
REMOVAL)
(7) If the noise continues, replace the compressor
and repeat Step 1.
REMOVAL
WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THE FRONT OF THIS SECTION BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - WARNING) (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION)
The compressor may be removed and repositioned
without disconnecting the refrigerant lines or dis-
charging the refrigerant system. Discharging is not
necessary if servicing the compressor clutch or clutch
coil, the engine, the cylinder head, or the generator.
(1) Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant
system. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE -
REFRIGERANT RECOVERY)(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness
connector.
(5) Remove the suction and discharge refrigerant
line manifold from the compressor. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
SUCTION LINE - REMOVAL) (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
DISCHARGE LINE - REMOVAL) Install plugs in, or
tape over all of the opened refrigerant fittings.
(6) Remove the bolts that secure the compressor to
the mounting bracket (Fig. 2) or (Fig. 3) or (Fig. 4).
(7) Remove the compressor from the mounting
bracket.
Fig. 2 A/C COMPRESSOR - 2.4L ENGINE
1 - COMPRESSOR BOLT
2 - COMPRESSOR BOLT
3 - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH AND PULLY
4 - IDLER PULLEY
5 - ENGINE BLOCK
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
KJPLUMBING 24 - 43
A/C COMPRESSOR (Continued)