(4) Remove caliper piston withshort burstsof
low pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid
inlet port and ease piston out of bore (Fig. 18).
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston. Use only enough air pressure to
ease the piston out.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS MAY RESULT
IN PERSONAL INJURY.(5) Remove caliper piston dust boot with suitable
pry tool (Fig. 19).
(6) Remove caliper piston seal with wood or plastic
tool (Fig. 20). Do not use metal tools as they will
scratch piston bore.
(7) Remove caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots (Fig. 21).
Fig. 16 DISC BRAKE CALIPER
1 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
2 - CALIPER SLIDE MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - BRAKE HOSE
4 - BANJO BOLT
5 - CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 17 PADDING CALIPER INTERIOR - TYPICAL
1 - SHOP TOWELS OR CLOTHS
2 - CALIPER
Fig. 18 CALIPER PISTON REMOVAL - TYPICAL
1 - AIR GUN
2 - CALIPER PISTON
3 - PADDING MATERIAL
Fig. 19 CALIPER PISTON DUST BOOT REMOVAL -
TYPICAL
1 - COLLAPSE BOOT WITH PUNCH OR SCREWDRIVER
2 - PISTON DUST BOOT
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 15
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)
CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 22). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper piston bore, new piston seal
and piston with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of
bushing boots with silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper, then insert
bushing into boot and push bushing into place (Fig.
23).
(4) Install new piston seal into seal groove with
finger (Fig. 24).
(5) Install new dust boot on caliper piston and seat
boot in piston groove (Fig. 25).
(6) Press piston into caliper bore by hand, use a
turn and push motion to work piston into seal (Fig.
26).
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 27).
(9) Replace caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 PISTON SEAL REMOVAL - TYPICAL
1 - REMOVE SEAL WITH WOOD PENCIL OR SIMILAR TOOL
2 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 21 MOUNTING BOLT BUSHING AND BOOT -
TYPICAL
1 - CALIPER SLIDE BUSHING
2 - BOOT
Fig. 22 POLISHING PISTON BORE - TYPICAL
1 - SPECIAL HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)
a linear force against the secondary brake shoe. This
action presses the secondary shoe into contact with
the drum. Once the secondary shoe contacts the
drum, force is exerted through the strut. This force is
transferred through the strut to the primary brake
shoe causing it to pivot into the drum as well.
A gear type ratcheting mechanism is used to hold
the lever in an applied position. Parking brake
release is accomplished by the hand lever release
button.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever. The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warn-
ing light whenever the parking brakes are applied.
Parking brake is self-adjusting when the lever is
pulled. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at the fac-
tory, should not need further adjustment under nor-
mal circumstances.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - LOCK OUT
NOTE: The parking brake is self-adjusting, It can
not be adjusted.
(1) Remove the center floor console (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL).
(2) Pull up on the spring until the tab on the lever
passes the tab on the cable guide and install a punch
in the hole on the side then release (Fig. 46).(3) The park brake system is now locked out to
perform necessary repairs.
CABLES
REMOVAL
(1) Lock out the parking brake cables (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE - ADJUSTMENTS) (Fig.
46).
(2) Remove the rear seat (Refer to 23 - BODY/
SEATS/SEAT - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the cable saddle bracket (Fig. 47).
(4) Disconnect the two cables from the front mount
(Fig. 48).
(5) Pull the carpet forward far enough in the rear
to gain access to the two parking brake cables thru
the floor (Fig. 47).
(6) Push the cables thru the floor with the grom-
mets.
(7) Remove the primary brake shoe hold down
spring and separate the shoes to gain access, Then
disconnect the cable from lever on brake shoe.
(8) Remove cables from backing plates by using a
screw driver to break off the tangs on the cable or a
proper sized box end wrench over the tangs.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the cables into the support plate.
(2) Reconnect the cable to the lever on the brake
shoe, Install the primary brake shoe hold down
spring and the shoes.
Fig. 46 LOCK OUT CABLES
1 - PARKING BRAKE HANDLE
2 - PUNCH
3 - CABLE GUIDE
4 - CABLE
Fig. 47 MOUNTING BRACKETS
1 - MOUNTING SADDLE BRACKET
2 - PARK BRAKE CABLES
3 - CARPET
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASEKJ
PARKING BRAKE (Continued)
(3) Push the cables thru the floor and seat the
grommets.
(4) Reconnect the two cables to the front mount.
(5) Install the cable saddle bracket (Fig. 47).
(6) Lay the carpet back down in the rear.
(7) Install the rear seat (Refer to 23 - BODY/
SEATS/SEAT - INSTALLATION).
(8) Remove the lock out device on the lever.
(9) Test the parking brake.
LEVER
REMOVAL
The center floor console must be removed to service
the parking brake lever,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERI-
OR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL) .
(1) Lock out the parking brakes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE - ADJUSTMENTS).
(2) Disengage the front cables from the equalizer
(Fig. 49).
(3) Disconnect the parking brake lamp switch wire
(Fig. 49).
(4) Remove the parking brake lever assembly
mounting bolts (Fig. 50).
(5) Remove the lever assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the parking brake lever assembly.
(2) Install the parking brake lever assembly to the
mounting bolts. Tighten (Fig. 50).
Install the center floor console, (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLA-
TION).
(3) Engage the front cables to the equalizer (Fig.
49).(4) Reconnect the parking brake lamp switch wire
(Fig. 49).
(5) If installing a new parking brake lever remove
the pin that come on the lever when shipped.
(6) If you are reinstalling the original park brake
lever remove the lock out device at this time.
(7) Test the parking brake lever. (Fig. 50).
Fig. 48 CABLE FRONT MOUNT
1 - RETAINER CLIPS
2 - CABLES
Fig. 49 PARKING BRAKE LEVER
1 - PARK BRAKE LEVER ASSEMBLY
2 - EQUALIZER
Fig. 50 LEVER MOUNT
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - PARK BRAKE LEVER ASSEMBLY
3 - CABLE
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
CABLES (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 3).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pres-
sure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on
cap to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of
filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat fornicks, cracks, paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to-
reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions.
Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 4).
Operate tester pump to apply 110 kPa (16 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
Fig. 3 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing Cooling System - Typical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 4 COOLINGKJ
COOLING (Continued)
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 2).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pres-
sure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on
cap to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of
filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat for
nicks, cracks, paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to-
reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions.
Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 3).
Operate tester pump to apply 110 kPa (16 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
Fig. 2 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 3 Pressure Testing Cooling System - Typical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
KJCOOLING - 2.4L7s-3
COOLING - 2.4L (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
5. Radio faulty. 5. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Manual.
CLOCK WILL NOT KEEP
SET TIME1. Fuse faulty. 1. Check Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse in the
Junction Block (JB). Replace fuse, if required.
2. Radio connector faulty. 2. Check for loose or corroded radio connector.
Repair, if required.
3. Wiring faulty. 3. Check for battery voltage at radio connector.
Repair wiring, if required.
4. Radio ground faulty. 4. Check for continuity between radio chassis and
a known good ground. There should be
continuity. Repair ground, if required.
5. Radio faulty. 5. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Manual.
POOR RADIO RECEPTION 1. Antenna faulty. 1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/AUDIO/ANTENNA
BODY & CABLE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
2. Radio ground faulty. 2. Check for continuity between radio chassis and
a known good ground. There should be
continuity. Repair ground, if required.
3. Radio noise suppression
faulty.3. Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
4. Radio faulty. 4. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Manual.
NO/POOR TAPE
OPERATION1. Faulty tape. 1. Insert known good tape and test operation.
2. Foreign objects behind
tape door.2. Remove foreign objects and test operation.
3. Dirty cassette tape head. 3. Clean head with Mopar Cassette Head
Cleaner.
4. Faulty tape deck. 4. Exchange or replace radio, if required.
NO COMPACT DISC
OPERATION1. Faulty CD. 1. Insert known good CD and test operation.
2. Foreign material on CD. 2. Clean CD and test operation.
3. Condensation on CD or
optics.3. Allow temperature of vehicle interior to stabilize
and test operation.
4. Faulty CD player. 4. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service
Manual.
AMPLIFIER CHOKE AND
RELAY
DESCRIPTION
Models equipped with the premium speaker pack-
age have a amplifier choke and relay. The amplifier
choke and relay is mounted to the lower instrument
panel above the accelerator pedal.
The amplifier choke and relay should be checked if
there is no sound output from the speakers. The
amplifier choke and relay can not be repaired or
adjusted and, if faulty or damaged, the unit must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The amplifier choke and relay is used to control
the supply of fused battery current to the front door
speaker-mounted dual amplifiers. The speaker relay
is energized by a fused 12 volt output from the radio
receiver whenever the radio is turned on. For com-
plete circuit diagrams, refer to the appropriate wir-
ing information. The wiring information includes
wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector repair
procedures, details of wire harness routing and
retention, connector pin-out information and location
views for the various wire harness connectors, splices
and grounds.
KJAUDIO 8A - 3
AUDIO (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AMPLIFIER
CHOKE AND RELAY
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should
begin with the use of the DRB diagnostic tool.
For information on the use of the DRB, refer to
the appropriate Diagnostic Service Manual.
The amplifier choke and relay is used to switch
power to the individual speaker amplifiers used with
the premium speaker package. The amplifier choke
and relay is serviced only as a unit. If all of the
speakers are inoperative the amplifier choke and
relay should be inspected. Before replacement, make
the following inspections of the amplifier choke and
relay circuits. For complete circuit diagrams, refer to
the appropriate wiring information. The wiring infor-
mation includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and
connector repair procedures, details of wire harness
routing and retention, connector pin-out information
and location views for the various wire harness con-
nectors, splices and grounds.
(1)
Check the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block. If
OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK,
repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the battery as
required.
(3) Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness
connector from the amplifier choke and relay. Check
for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of
the instrument panel wire harness connector for the
amplifier choke and relay. If OK, go to Step 4. If not
OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the junction
block fuse as required.
(4) Probe the ground circuit cavity of the instru-
ment panel wire harness connector for the amplifier
choke and relay. Check for continuity to a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step
5. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(5) Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position
and turn the radio ON. Check for battery voltage at
the radio 12-volt output circuit cavity of the instru-
ment panel wire harness connector for the amplifier
choke and relay. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK,
repair the open radio 12-volt output circuit to the
radio as required.
(6) Turn the radio and ignition switches to the
OFF position. Reconnect the instrument panel wire
harness connector to the amplifier choke and relay.
Check for battery voltage at the amplified speaker
(+) circuit cavity of the instrument panel wire har-
ness connector for the amplifier choke and relay.
There should be zero volts. Turn the ignition and
radio switches to the ON position. There should now
be battery voltage. If OK, repair the open amplified
speaker (+) circuits to the speaker-mounted amplifi-ers as required. If not OK, replace the faulty ampli-
fier choke and relay.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove knee blocker cover and knee blocker.
(3) Disconnect the electrical harness connector
from the amplifier choke and relay (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove mounting screws and amplifier choke
and relay.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the amplifier choke and relay.
(2) Install the mounting screws.
(3) Connect the electrical harness connector.
(4) Install knee blocker cover and knee blocker.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
ANTENNA BODY & CABLE
DESCRIPTION
The antenna body and cable is secured below the
fender panel by the antenna cap nut through a
mounting hole in the side of the right front fender.
The primary coaxial antenna cable is then routed
beneath the fender sheet metal and through a entry
hole in the right cowl side panel into the interior of
the vehicle. Inside the vehicle, the primary coaxial
cable is connected to a secondary instrument panel
antenna coaxial cable with an in-line connector that
is located behind the right kick panel. The secondary
coaxial cable is then routed behind the instrument
panel to the back of the radio.
Fig. 1 RADIO CHOKE
1 - RADIO CHOKE
2 - MOUNTING SCREWS
8A - 4 AUDIOKJ
AMPLIFIER CHOKE AND RELAY (Continued)