2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE low engine oil pressure

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐ ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/LIFTERS 1. High or low oil level in crankcase 1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust
oil level by draining or adding as
needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
engine oil pressure test/specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic tappets/
lash adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms
and replace worn arms as needed
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and
replace as necessary
9. Excessive runout of valve seats or
valve faces9. Grind valves and seats
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) engine
oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for
correct procedure/engine oil
specifications
4. Excessive connecting rod bearing
clearanceMeasure bearings for correct
clearance with plasti-gage. Repair as
necessary
5. Connecting rod journal out of
round5. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
9 - 6 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace
crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/
flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean
and reinstall
8. Oil pump suction tube loose,
broken, bent or clogged8. Inspect suction tube and clean or
replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup
plug4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS OIL FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE
EMISSIONS - DESCRIPTION) for
correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon
piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 7
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

(7) Remove the fan assembly from the water pump
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud.
(9) Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines
(automatic transmission).
(10) Discharge the A/C system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove the service valves and cap the com-
pressor ports.
(12) Remove the radiator or radiator/condenser (if
equipped with A/C).
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine
thermostat housing and water pump.
(14) Disconnect the accelerator cable, transmission
line pressure cable and speed control cable (if
equipped) from the throttle body.
(15) Remove cables from the bracket and secure
out of the way.
(16) Disconnect the body ground at the engine.
(17) Disconnect the following connectors and
secure their harness out of the way.
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(18) Disconnect the coil rail electrical connections
and the oil pressure switch connector.
(19) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Disconnect the fuel supply line at the injector
rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(21) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(22) Remove the air cleaner assembly (Fig. 5).
(23) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(24) Drain the pump reservoir.
(25) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the sys-
tem.
(26) Raise and support the vehicle.
(27) Disconnect the wires from the engine starter
motor solenoid.(28) Remove the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
REMOVAL).
(29) Disconnect the oxygen sensor from the
exhaust pipe.
(30) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(31) Remove the exhaust pipe support.
(32) Remove the bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
REMOVAL).
(33) Remove the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(34) Mark the converter and drive plate location.
(35) Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(36) Remove the upper engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(37) Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(38) Lower the vehicle.
(39) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(40) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(41) Place a support or floor jack under the con-
verter (or engine flywheel) housing.
(42) Remove the remaining converter (or engine
flywheel) housing bolts.
(43) Lift the engine out of the engine compart-
ment.
Fig. 5 Air Cleaner Assembly
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP
2 - AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY
9 - 12 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When installing the engine into a vehicle
equipped with an automatic transmission, be care-
ful not to damage the trigger wheel on the engine
flywheel.
(1) Attach a lifting device to the engine and lower
the engine into the engine compartment. For easier
installation, it may be necessary to remove the
engine mount bracket as an aid in alignment of the
engine to the transmission.
(2) Align the transmission torque converter hous-
ing with the engine.
(3) Loosely install the converter housing lower
bolts and install the next higher bolt and nut on each
side.
(4) Tighten all 4 bolts finger tight.
(5) Install the engine mount brackets (if removed).
(6) Lower the engine and engine mount brackets
onto the engine compartment cushions. Install the
bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(7) Remove the engine lifting device.
(8) Raise and support the vehicle.
(9) Install the remaining engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts. Tighten all bolts to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Install the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(11) Ensure the installation reference marks are
aligned.
(12) Install the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(13) Install the exhaust pipe support and tighten
the screw.
(14) Install the engine bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Tighten the engine mount-to-bracket bolts.
(16) Connect the vehicle speed sensor wire connec-
tions and tighten the screws.
(17) Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
(18) Install the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(19) Connect the wires to the engine starter motor
solenoid.
(20) Lower the vehicle.
(21) Connect all the vacuum hoses and wire con-
nectors identified during engine removal.
(22) Remove protective caps from the power steer-
ing hoses.
(23) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 N´m (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(24) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.(25) Inspect the fuel supply line o-ring(s) and
replace if necessary. Connect fuel supply line to injec-
tior rail and verify connection by pulling outward on
the line.
(26) Install the fuel line bracket to the intake
manifold.
(27) Connect the coil rail electrical connectors and
oil pressure switch connector.
(28) Connect the following electrical connectors:
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(29) Connect all previously removed vacuum hoses.
(30) Connect the body ground strap.
(31) Install the throttle, transmission line pres-
sure, and speed control cables to their mounting
bracket and connect them to the throttle body.
(32) Connect the heater hoses at the engine ther-
mostat housing and water pump.
(33) Install the fan assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(34) Place the fan shroud in position over the fan.
(35) Install the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(36) Connect the service valves to the A/C com-
pressor ports, if equipped with A/C.
(37) Charge the air conditioner system (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(38) Connect the radiator hoses and automatic
transmission fluid cooler pipes, if equipped.
(39) Install the fan shroud to the radiator or radi-
ator/condenser (if equipped with A/C).
(40) Install upper radiator support.
(41) Connect the upper radiator hose and tighten
the clamp.
(42) Connect the lower radiator hose and tighten
the clamp.
(43) Fill crankcase with engine oil. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID CAPACI-
TIES - SPECIFICATIONS) for correct capacities.
(44) Fill the cooling system with reusable coolant
or new coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(45) Align the hood to the scribe marks. Install the
hood.
(46) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(47) Install the battery and connect the battery
cable.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 13
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

(5) Position the valve spring and retainer on the
engine cylinder head and compress the valve spring
with Valve Spring Compressor Tool MD-998772A.
(6) Install the valve locks and release the tool.
(7) Tap the valve spring from side to side with a
hammer to ensure that the spring is properly seated
at the engine cylinder head. Also tap the top of the
retainer to seat the valve locks.
(8) Install the engine cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSEMBLY
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are made of stamped steel and
have a operational ratio of 1.6:1 (Fig. 21).
OPERATION
When the push rods are forced upward by the cam-
shaft lobes the push rod presses upward on the
rocker arms, the rocker arms pivot, forcing down-
ward pressure on the valves forcing the valves to
move downward and off from their seats.
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
in or out of the vehicle.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Check for rocker arm bridges which are caus-
ing misalignment of the rocker arm to valve tip area.
(3) Remove the capscrews at each bridge and pivot
assembly (Fig. 22). Alternately loosen the capscrews
one turn at a time to avoid damaging the bridges.
(4) Remove the bridges, pivots and corresponding
pairs of rocker arms (Fig. 22). Place them on a bench
in the same order as removed.
(5) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
CLEANING
Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.
Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in
the rocker arms and push rods.
Fig. 20 Valve and Valve Components
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
Fig. 21 Rocker ArmsÐTypical
1 - CAPSCREWS
2 - BRIDGE
3 - PIVOT ASSEMBLY
4 - PUSH RODS
5 - ROCKER ARMS
9 - 26 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

(2) Remove cap screws, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
REMOVAL) for access to each valve spring to be
removed.
(3) Remove push rods.Retain the push rods,
bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same
order and position as removed.
(4) Inspect the springs and retainer for cracks and
possible signs of weakening.
(5) Remove the spark plug(s) adjacent to the cylin-
der(s) below the valve springs to be removed.
(6) Connect an air hose to the adapter and apply
air pressure slowly. Maintain at least 621 kPa (90
psi) of air pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves
against their seats. For vehicles equipped with an air
conditioner, use a flexible air adaptor when servicing
the No.1 cylinder.
(7) Tap the retainer or tip with a rawhide hammer
to loosen the lock from the retainer. Use Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A to compress the spring
and remove the locks (Fig. 27).
(8) Remove valve spring and retainer (Fig. 27).
(9) Remove valve stem oil seals (Fig. 27). Note the
valve seals are different for intake and exhaust
valves. The top of each seal is marked either INT
(intake/black in color) or EXH (exhaust/brown in
color). DO NOT mix the seals.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
cylinder head installed on the block.
CAUTION: Install oil seals carefully to prevent dam-
age from the sharp edges of the valve spring lock
grove.
(1) Lightly push the valve seal over the valve stem
and valve guide boss. Be sure the seal is completely
seated on the valve guide boss.
(2) Install valve spring and retainer (Fig. 28).
(3) Compress the valve spring with Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A and insert the valve
locks. Release the spring tension and remove the
tool. Tap the spring from side-to-side to ensure that
the spring is seated properly on the engine cylinder
head.(4) Release air pressure and disconnect the air
hose. Remove the adaptor from the spark plug hole
and install the spark plug.
(5) Repeat the procedures for each remaining valve
spring to be removed.
(6) Install the push rods. Ensure the bottom end of
each rod is centered in the plunger cap seat of the
hydraulic valve tappet.
(7) Install the rocker arms, pivots and bridge
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION) at their
original location.
(8) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 27 Valve and Valve Components
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 29
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL) and oil pump
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP -
REMOVAL).
(5) Remove main bearing cap brace (Fig. 44).
(6) Remove only one main bearing cap and lower
insert at a time (Fig. 45).
(7) Remove the lower insert from the bearing cap.
(8) Remove the upper insert by LOOSENING (DO
NOT REMOVE) all of the other bearing caps. Now
insert a small cotter pin tool in the crankshaft jour-
nal oil hole. Bend the cotter pin as illustrated to fab-
ricate the tool (Fig. 46). With the cotter pin tool in
place, rotate the crankshaft so that the upper bear-
ing insert will rotate in the direction of its locking
tab. Because there is no hole in the No.3 main jour-
nal, use a tongue depressor or similar soft-faced tool
to remove the bearing insert (Fig. 46). After moving
the insert approximately 25 mm (1 inch), it can be
removed by applying pressure under the tab.
(9) Using the same procedure described above,
remove the remaining bearing inserts one at a time
for inspection.
Fig. 44 Main Bearing Caps and Brace.
1 - BLOCK
2 - MAIN BEARING CAP BRACE
Fig. 45 Removing Main Bearing Caps and Lower
Inserts
1 - CONNECTING ROD JOURNAL
2 - MAIN BEARING CAPS
Fig. 46 Removing Upper Inserts
1 - COTTER PIN
2 - BEARING INSERT
3 - TONGUE DEPRESSOR
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 39
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)