FLUID
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN/
REFILL
The fill and drain plugs are both in the rear case
(Fig. 72).
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Position drain pan under transfer case.
(3) Remove drain and fill plugs and drain lubri-
cant completely.
(4) Install drain plug. Tighten plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove drain pan.(6) Fill transfer case to bottom edge of fill plug
opening with MopartTransfer Case Lubricant.
(7) Install and tighten fill plug to 20-34 N´m
(15-25 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle.
FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove front output shaft companion shaft.
(4) Remove seal from front case with pry tool (Fig.
73).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new front output seal in front case with
Installer Tool 6952-A as follows:
(a) Place new seal on tool. Garter spring on seal
goes toward interior of case.
(b) Start seal in bore with light taps from ham-
mer (Fig. 74). Once seal is started, continue tap-
ping seal into bore until installer tool seats against
case.
(2) Install companion flange and torque nut to
122-176 N´m (90-130 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install front propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - INSTALLATION)
Installer, Bearign - 8128
Installer, Seal - 7884
Fig. 72 Fill/Drain Plug and I.D. Tag Location -
Typical
1 - I.D. TAG
2 - FILL PLUG
3 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 73 Remove Front Output Shaft Seal
1 - OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
2 - PRYBAR
21 - 338 TRANSFER CASE - NV247WJ
TRANSFER CASE - NV247 (Continued)
SHIFT CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Shift transfer case into NEUTRAL.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Disconnect the shift cable eyelet from the
transfer case shift lever (Fig. 78).
(4) Remove shift cable from the cable support
bracket.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Remove any necessary console parts for access
to shift lever assembly and shift cable.
(7) Disconnect cable at shift lever and shifter
assembly bracket (Fig. 79).
(8) Remove the nuts holding the shift cable seal
plate to the floor pan (Fig. 80).
(9) Pull cable through floor panel opening.
(10) Remove transfer case shift cable from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Route cable through hole in floor pan.
(2) Install seal plate to studs in floor pan.
(3) Install nuts to hold seal plate to floor pan (Fig.
80). Tighten nuts to 7 N´m (65 in.lbs.).
(4) Install the transfer case shift cable to the
shifter assembly bracket. Seat cable in bracket and
install clip (Fig. 79).
(5) Verify the transfer case shift lever (at console)
is in the NEUTRAL position.
(6) Snap the cable onto the shift lever pin (Fig.
79).
(7) Raise the vehicle.(8) Install the shift cable to the shift cable support
bracket and install clip (Fig. 78).
(9) Verify that the transfer case is still in the
NEUTRAL position.
(10) Snap the shift cable onto the transfer case
shift lever (Fig. 78).
(11) Lower vehicle.
(12) Verify correct transfer case operation in all
ranges.
(13) Install any console parts removed for access to
transfer case shift cable.
Fig. 78 Transfer Case Shift Cable at Transfer Case
1 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LEVER
2 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFT CABLE
Fig. 79 Transfer Case Shift Cable at Shifter
1 - CLIP
2 - SHIFTER
3 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LEVER PIN
4 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFT CABLE
Fig. 80 Shift Cables at Floor Pan
1 - SEAL PLATES
2 - TRANSMISSION SHIFT CABLE
3 - TRANSFER CASE SHIFT CABLE
21 - 340 TRANSFER CASE - NV247WJ
(1) Remove tire from wheel and mount wheel on
service dynamic balance machine.
(2) Check wheel radial runout (Fig. 2) and lateral
runout (Fig. 3).
²STEEL WHEELS: Radial runout 0.040 in., Lat-
eral runout 0.045 in. (maximum)
²ALUMINUM WHEELS: Radial runout 0.030 in.,
Lateral runout 0.035 in. (maximum)
(3) If point of greatest wheel lateral runout is near
original chalk mark, remount tire 180 degrees.
Recheck runout,(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TIRE AND WHEEL
BALANCE
It is recommended that a two plane service
dynamic balancer be used when a tire and wheel
assembly require balancing. Refer to balancer opera-
tion instructions for proper cone mounting proce-
dures. Typically use front cone mounting method for
steel wheels. For aluminum wheel use back cone
mounting method without cone spring.
NOTE: Static should be used only when a two plane
balancer is not available.
NOTE: Cast aluminum and forged aluminum wheels
require coated balance weights and special align-
ment equipment.
Wheel balancing can be accomplished with either
on or off vehicle equipment. When using on-vehiclebalancing equipment, remove the opposite wheel/tire.
Off-vehicle balancing is recommended.
For static balancing, find the location of the heavy
spot causing the imbalance. Counter balance wheel
directly opposite the heavy spot. Determine weight
Fig. 1 Checking Tire/Wheel/Hub Runout
1 - RADIAL RUNOUT
2 - LATERAL RUNOUT
Fig. 2 Radial Runout
1 - MOUNTING CONE
2 - SPINDLE SHAFT
3 - WING NUT
4 - PLASTIC CUP
5 - DIAL INDICATOR
6 - WHEEL
7 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 3 Lateral Runout
1 - MOUNTING CONE
2 - SPINDLE SHAFT
3 - WING NUT
4 - PLASTIC CUP
5 - DIAL INDICATOR
6 - WHEEL
7 - DIAL INDICATOR
22 - 2 TIRES/WHEELSWJ
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)
required to counter balance the area of imbalance.
Place half of this weight on theinnerrim flange and
the other half on theouterrim flange (Fig. 4).For dynamic balancing, the balancing equipment is
designed to locate the amount of weight to be applied
to both the inner and outer rim flange (Fig. 5).
Fig. 4 Static Unbalance & Balance
1 - HEAVY SPOT
2 - CENTER LINE OF SPINDLE
3 - ADD BALANCE WEIGHTS HERE4 - CORRECTIVE WEIGHT LOCATION
5 - TIRE OR WHEEL TRAMP, OR WHEEL HOP
Fig. 5 Dynamic Unbalance & Balance
1 - CENTER LINE OF SPINDLE
2 - ADD BALANCE WEIGHTS HERE3 - CORRECTIVE WEIGHT LOCATION
4 - HEAVY SPOT WHEEL SHIMMY AND VIBRATION
WJTIRES/WHEELS 22 - 3
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)
DOOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect front door harness connector (Fig.
2).
(2) Support door with padded floor jack.
(3) Remove retaining clips from hinge pins.
(4) Tap out hinge pins.
(5) Separate door from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position door at vehicle and align hinges.
(2) Install hinge pins.
(3) Install retaining clips for hinge pins.
(4) Connect front door harness connector (Fig. 2).
ADJUSTMENTS
DOOR ADJUSTMENT
Minor adjustment for alignment of the door is
made by moving the latch striker.
IN AND OUT
(1) Loosen the latch striker.
(2) Tap the latch striker inward if the door charac-
ter line is outboard of the body character line or tap
the latch striker outward if the door character line is
inboard of the body character line.
(3) Inspect the alignment. If correct, tighten
striker to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
UP AND DOWN
(1) Loosen the latch striker.
(2) Tap the latch striker downward if the door
character line is higher than the body character lineor tap the latch striker upward if the door character
line is lower than the body character line.
(3) Inspect the alignment. If correct, tighten to 28
N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL
(1) Locate glass to full down position.
(2) Remove the waterdam, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/WATERDAM - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove inner belt weatherstrip, refer to (Refer
to 23 - BODY/WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/FDR INNER
BELT WEATHERSTRIP - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove outer belt weatherstrip, refer to (Refer
to 23 - BODY/WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/FDR OUTER
BELT WEATHERSTRIP - REMOVAL).
(5) Locate glass to 3/4 up position.
(6) Using a long flat blade or hook type tool, dis-
engage clips (Fig. 3) attaching glass retainer to glass
lift plate.
(7) Carefully push bottom of glass panel outward
to disengage glass retainer studs from lift plate (Fig.
4).
(8) Lift glass upward and out of door.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lower glass into position.
(2) Carefully align glass retainer studs with lift
plate and insert studs into lift plate.
Fig. 2 Front Door Harness Connector
1 - HARNESS CONNECTOR
2 - DOOR
Fig. 3 Front Door Glass Clips
1 - GLASS
2 - RETAINER
3 - CLIP
4 - LIFT PLATE
5 - REGULATOR
6 - CLIP
23 - 12 DOOR - FRONTWJ
DOOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect rear door harness connector (Fig. 2).
(2) Support door with padded floor jack.
(3) Remove retaining clips from hinge pins.
(4) Tap out hinge pins.
(5) Separate door from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position door at vehicle and align hinges.
(2) Install hinge pins.
(3) Install retaining clips for hinge pins.
(4) Connect rear door harness connector (Fig. 2).
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove waterdam, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOORS - REAR/WATERDAM - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove inner belt weatherstrip, refer to (Refer
to 23 - BODY/WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/RDR INNER
BELT WEATHERSTRIP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove stationary glass, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/STATIONARY GLASS/DOOR GLASS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Disengage clips attaching window glass to lift
plate.
(5) Press studs out of lift plate.
(6) Lift window glass from door (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position window glass in door (Fig. 3).
(2) Engage studs into lift plate.
(3) Engage clips attaching window glass to lift
plate.
(4) Install stationary glass, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/STATIONARY GLASS/DOOR GLASS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install inner belt weatherstrip, refer to (Refer
to 23 - BODY/WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/RDR INNER
BELT WEATHERSTRIP - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install waterdam, refer to (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOORS - REAR/WATERDAM - INSTALLATION).
EXTERIOR HANDLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove waterdam, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOORS - REAR/WATERDAM - REMOVAL).
(2) Locate glass to full up position.
(3) Disconnect lock knob to latch rod.
(4) Disconnect outside handle to latch rod.
(5) Remove fasteners attaching outside handle to
door (Fig. 4).
(6) Remove outside handle from door.
(7) Separate outside handle from vehicle.
Fig. 2 Rear Door Harness Connector
1 - HARNESS CONNECTOR
Fig. 3 Glass Channel
1 - GLASS
2 - REGULATOR
23 - 20 DOORS - REARWJ
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove screws attaching striker to C-pillar
(Fig. 8).
(2) Separate striker and spacer from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position striker and spacer on C-pillar.
(2) Install screws. Tighten to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
torque.
TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove screws attaching trim panel to door
(Fig. 9).
(2) Using trim remover (C-4829 or equivalent),
detach trim panel perimeter push-in fasteners from
door inner panel.
(3) Lift trim panel upward and separate from door.
(4) If equipped, disconnect harness connectors for
power accessories.
(5)
Disconnect latch rods from inside handle actuator.
(6) Separate trim panel from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect latch rods to inside handle actuator.(2) If equipped, connect harness connectors to
power accessories.
(3) Position trim panel on door inner panel.
(4) Press trim panel push-in fasteners inward
around perimeter of door.
(5)
Install screws attaching trim panel to door (Fig. 9).
WATERDAM
REMOVAL
(1) Remove door trim panel, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOORS - REAR/TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL).
(2) Peel the waterdam from door.
(3) Route all harnesses and linkage rods through
waterdam as necessary.
(4) Separate waterdam from door (Fig. 10).
Fig. 8 Rear Door Latch Striker
1 - TAPPING PLATE
2 - SPACER
3 - STRIKER
Fig. 9 Rear Door Trim Panel
1 - TRIM PANEL
2 - NUTSERT
3 - HARNESS CONNECTOR
4 - LATCH RODS
Fig. 10 Rear Door Waterdam
1 - INSULATOR PAD
WJDOORS - REAR 23 - 23