2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Time

TIRES/WHEELS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
TIRES/WHEELS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE AND
WHEEL RUNOUT......................1
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TIRE AND
WHEEL BALANCE......................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MATCH
MOUNTING...........................4
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TIRE ROTATION . 5
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
INSTALLATION........................5
TIRES
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - TIRES..................6
DESCRIPTION - RADIAL±PLY TIRES.......6
DESCRIPTION - TIRE INFLATION
PRESSURES..........................6
DESCRIPTION - TIRE PRESSURE FOR
HIGH SPEED..........................7
DESCRIPTION - REPLACEMENT TIRES.....7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRESSURE
GAUGES.............................8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TREAD WEAR
INDICATORS..........................8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE WEAR
PATTERNS...........................8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE NOISE
OR VIBRATION........................8STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIRING
LEAKS...............................8
CLEANING.............................9
SPECIFICATIONS
TIRES...............................9
SPECIFICATIONS -.....................9
SPARE TIRE
DESCRIPTION - SPARE / TEMPORARY TIRE . . 10
WHEELS
DESCRIPTION.........................10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WHEEL
INSPECTION.........................10
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
REPLACEMENT.......................10
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................11
STUDS
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................11
TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING
DESCRIPTION.........................12
OPERATION...........................12
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE PRESSURE
MONITORING SYSTEM.................12
SENSOR
REMOVAL - TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR/
TRANSMITTER.......................12
INSTALLATION - TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR/
TRANSMITTER.......................13
TIRES/WHEELS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TIRE AND WHEEL
RUNOUT
Radial runout is the difference between the high
and low points on the tire or wheel (Fig. 1).
Lateral runout is thewobbleof the tire or wheel.
Radial runout of more than 1.5 mm (.060 inch)
measured at the center line of the tread may cause
the vehicle to shake.
Lateral runout of more than 2.0 mm (.080 inch)
measured near the shoulder of the tire may cause the
vehicle to shake.
Sometimes radial runout can be reduced. Relocate
the wheel and tire assembly on the mounting studs
(See Method 1). If this does not reduce runout to an
acceptable level, the tire can be rotated on the wheel.
(See Method 2).
METHOD 1 (RELOCATE WHEEL ON HUB)
(1) Drive vehicle a short distance to eliminate tire
flat spotting from a parked position.
(2) Check wheel bearings and adjust if adjustable
or replace if necessary.
(3) Check the wheel mounting surface.
(4) Relocate wheel on the mounting, two studs
over from the original position.
(5) Tighten wheel nuts until all are properly
torqued, to eliminate brake distortion.
(6) Check radial runout. If still excessive, mark
tire sidewall, wheel, and stud at point of maximum
runout and proceed to Method 2.
METHOD 2 (RELOCATE TIRE ON WHEEL)
NOTE: Rotating the tire on wheel is particularly
effective when there is runout in both tire and
wheel.
WJTIRES/WHEELS 22 - 1

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)

(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger's clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch
striker, and safety latch should be lubricated period-
ically.
(5) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated
twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
(a) Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubri-
cant directly into the lock cylinder.
(b) Apply a small amount to the key and insert
it into the lock cylinder.
(c) Rotate it to the locked position and then back
to the unlocked position several times.(d) Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it
with a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING
When holes must be drilled or punched in an inner
body panel, verify depth of space to the outer body
panel, electrical wiring, or other components. Dam-
age to vehicle can result.
Do not weld exterior panels unless combustible
material on the interior of vehicle is removed from
the repair area. Fire or hazardous conditions, can
result.
Always have a fire extinguisher ready for use when
welding.
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS
COMPONENT SERVICE INTERVAL LUBRICANT
Door Hinges As RequiredMulti-Purpose Grease NLGI GC-LB
(Water Resistant) (1)
Door Latches As RequiredMulti-Purpose Grease NLGI GC-LB
(Water Resistant) (1)
Hood Latch, Release Mechanism and
Safety LatchAs Required
(When Performing Other
Underhood Service)Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI GC-LB 2
EP (2)
Hood Hinges As Required Engine Oil
Seat Track and Release Mechanism As RequiredMulti-Purpose Grease NLGI GC-LB 2
EP (2)
Liftgate Hinge As RequiredMulti-Purpose Grease NLGI GC-LB 2
EP (2)
Liftgate Support Arms As Required Engine Oil
Liftgate Latches As Required White Spray Lubricant (3)
Liftgate Release Handle (Pivot and Slide
Contact Surfaces)As RequiredMulti-Purpose Grease NLGI GC-LB 2
EP (2)
Window System Components As Required White Spray Lubricant (3)
Lock Cylinders Twice a Year Lock-Cylinder Lubricant (4)
Parking Brake Mechanism As RequiredMulti-Purpose Grease NLGI GC-LB 2
EP (1)
1 = Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease (High
Temp)
2 = Mopar Multi-Mileage Lubricant
3 = Mopar Spray White Lube
4 = Mopar Lock Cylinder Lubricant
WJBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)

(4) Close flip up glass panel and verify proper
operation.
(5)
Install liftgate trim panel, refer to (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE/TRIM
PANEL - INSTALLATION).
FLIP-UP GLASS LATCH
STRIKER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise flip up glass panel.
(2) Mark the position of the handle/striker on the
glass panel.
(3) Remove the screws attaching the handle/striker
to the glass.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the handle/striker on the glass panel
and align the reference marks.
(2) Install the screws attaching the handle/striker
to the glass panel. Tighten the fasteners to 6 N´m (60
in. lbs.).
FLIP-UP GLASS SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove license plate lamp housing/trim panel
from liftgate, refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/LICENSE PLATE
LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL).
(2) Squeeze the locking tabs inward to release the
switch from the housing.
(3) Disconnect the switch harness connector,
remove the switch from the housing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install switch harness connector.(2) Position switch in housing, snap switch into
place.
(3) Install license plate lamp housing/trim panel
onto liftgate, refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/LICENSE PLATE
LAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION).
HINGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the liftgate to
replace one or both hinges. The hinges can be
replaced one at a time.
(1) Open the liftgate. Support the liftgate for ease
of repair.
(2) Remove the liftgate header trim panel.
(3) Mark the hinge location with a grease pencil or
other suitable device.
(4) Remove the hinge screws (Fig. 5).
(5) Remove hinge.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the liftgate to
replace one or both hinges. The hinges can be
replaced one at a time.
(1) Position the hinge on the roof panel and on the
liftgate. (Use 3MŸ Fast and Firm or equivalent on
the hinge to body mating surfaces as a sealant.
(2) Install and tighten hinge screws at roof panel
to 28N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install hinge screws at liftgate. Tighten screws
to 28N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install liftgate header trim panel.
(5) Check the liftgate for proper alignment and
operation.
WJDECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE 23 - 7
FLIP-UP GLASS LATCH (Continued)

ADJUSTMENTS
DOOR LATCH
DOOR LATCH ADJUSTMENT
(1) Locate access hole (Fig. 11).
(2) Insert a 5/32-inch hex-wrench through hole and
into adjustment screw. Loosen screw.
(3) Operate outside handle button several times to
release any restriction because of mis-alignment.
(4) Tighten adjustment screw to 3 N´m (30 in-lbs)
torque.
(5) Test handle button and lock cylinder for proper
operation.
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove screws attaching striker to B-pillar.
(2) Separate striker and spacer from B-pillar (Fig.
12).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position striker and spacer on B-pillar.
(2) Install screws attaching striker to B-pillar.
Tighten screws to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig.
12).
LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove outside door handle, refer to (Refer to
23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/EXTERIOR HANDLE -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove screw securing lock cylinder retainer
to outside door handle (Fig. 13).
(3) Separate lock cylinder from door handle.
(4) Disconnect lock cylinder switch, if equipped.
Fig. 11 Door Latch Adjustment
1 - ACCESS HOLE
2 - DOOR
3 - LATCH MOUNTING BOLTS
4-LATCH
Fig. 12 Front Door Latch Striker
1 - B-PILLAR
2 - SPACER
3 - STRIKER
Fig. 13 Front Door Lock Cylinder
1 - OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE
2 - LOCK CYLINDER
3 - ANTI-THEFT SWITCH
4 - RETAINER
23 - 16 DOOR - FRONTWJ
LATCH (Continued)

(3) Apply fence primer around edge of fence. Allow
at least eighteen minutes drying time.
(4) Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane
around window vinyl border location.
(5)
Position glass into window opening and lock clips
into place (Fig. 3).
WINDSHIELD
REMOVAL
(1) Remove inside rear view mirror.
(2) Remove cowl cover.
(3) Remove screws attaching windshield side mold-
ing to A-pillar (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove upper windshield molding.
(5) Cut urethane bonding from around windshield
using a suitable sharp cold knife. A pneumatic cut-
ting device can be used if available (Fig. 5).
(6) Separate windshield from vehicle.
Fig. 3 Quarter Window Glass
1 - CLIP
2 - ROOF PANEL
3 - QUARTER WINDOW GLASS
Fig. 4 Windshield
1 - SIDE MOLDING
2 - SUPPORT SPACER
3 - UPPER MOLDING
4 - SIDE MOLDING
5 - ROOF PANEL
6 - SUPPORT SPACER7 - BLOCKER
8 - STUD
9 - SUPPORT SPACER
10 - WINDSHIELD
11 - ALIGNMENT SPACER
23 - 94 STATIONARY GLASSWJ
QUARTER WINDOW (Continued)

INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW ALL WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THIS GROUP BEFORE PRECEDING WITH
INSTALLATION.
CAUTION: Open a window before installing wind-
shield. This will avoid pressurizing the passenger
compartment. If a door or liftgate is slammed before
urethane is cured, water leaks can result.
The windshield fence should be cleaned of old ure-
thane bonding material. Support spacers should be
cleaned and properly installed on weld studs or
repair screws at bottom of windshield opening.
(1)
Place replacement windshield into windshield
opening. Position glass in the center of the opening
against the support spacers. Mark the glass at the sup-
port spacers with a grease pencil or masking tape and
ink pen to use as a reference for installation. Remove
replacement windshield from windshield opening (Fig. 6).
(2) Position the windshield inside up on a suitable
work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by 10 cm
by 50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks, placed par-
allel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart (Fig. 7).
(3) Clean inside of windshield with Mopar Glass
Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
(4) Apply clear glass primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide
around edge of windshield. Wipe with clean/dry lint-
free cloth.
(5)
Apply black-out primer 15 mm (.75 in.) wide on
top and sides of windshield and 25 mm (1 in.) on bottom
of windshield. Allow at least three minutes drying time.
(6) Position windshield spacers on lower fence
above support spacers at the edge of the windshield
opening (Fig. 4).
(7)
Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane around
perimeter of windshield along the inside of the mold-
ings. Apply two beads along the bottom edge.
(8) Install upper molding onto windshield.
(9) Apply fence primer around the perimeter of the
windshield opening fence. Allow at least 18 minutes
drying time.
(10) With aid of a helper, position windshield over
windshield opening. Align reference marks at bottom
of windshield to support spacers.
(11) Slowly lower windshield glass to windshield
opening fence. Guide top molding into proper position
if necessary. Push windshield inward to fence spacers
at bottom and until top molding is flush to roof line.
(12) Clean excess urethane from exterior with
Mopar Super Clean or equivalent.
(13) Install windshield side moldings.
(14) Install cowl cover and wipers.
(15) Install inside rear view mirror.
(16) After urethane has cured, water test wind-
shield to verify repair.
Fig. 6 Center Windshield and Mark at Support Spacers
1 - A-PILLAR
2 - WINDSHIELD
3 - MARKS
4 - SUPPORT SPACER
5 - COWLFig. 7 Work Surface Set up and Molding Installation
1 - WINDSHIELD AND MOULDINGS
2-
URETHANE BEAD AROUND GLASS 7mm (.3 in.) FROM EDGE
3 - BLOCKS
Fig. 5 Cut Urethane Around WindshieldÐTypical
1 - COLD KNIFE
2 - WINDSHIELD
WJSTATIONARY GLASS 23 - 95
WINDSHIELD (Continued)