Condition Possible Causes Correction
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
VARI-LOKT
(1) Park the vehicle on a level surface or raise
vehicle on hoist so that the vehicle is level.
(2) Remove the axle fill plug.
(3) Verify that the axle fluid level is correct. The
fluid level is correct if the fluid is level with the bot-
tom of the fill hole.
(4) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD full-time
position.
(5) Drive the vehicle in a tight circle for 2 minutes
at 5mph to fully prime the pump.
(6) Block the tires opposite the axle to be tested to
prevent the vehicle from moving.
(7) Shift the transfer case into the 4WD Low posi-
tion and the transmission into the Park position.
(8) Raise both the wheels of the axle to be tested
off of the ground.
(9) Rotate the left wheel by hand at a minimum of
one revolution per second while an assistant rotates
the right wheel in the opposite direction.
(10) The left wheel should spin freely at first and
then increase in resistance within 5 revolutions until
the wheels cannot be continuously rotated in opposite
directions.
(11) The Vari-loktdifferential has engaged prop-
erly if the wheels cannot be rotated in opposite direc-
tions for a moment. After the wheels stop rotating for
a moment, the fluid pressure will drop in the differ-
ential and the wheels begin to rotate once again.
(12) If the system does not operate properly,
replace the Vari-loktdifferential.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the
axle.
(3) Secure axle to lift.
(4) Remove the wheels and tires.
(5) Remove the brake calipers and rotors (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS
- REMOVAL) from the axle.
(6) Disconnect the wheel sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness.
(7) Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft
tube.
(8) Mark propeller shaft and yoke/pinion flange for
installation alignment reference.
(9) Remove propeller shaft.
(10) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle.
(11) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brack-
ets.
(12) Disconnect track bar.
(13) Disconnect the tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckle.
(14) Disconnect the steering damper from the axle
bracket.
(15) Disconnect the upper and lower suspension
arms from the axle brackets.
(16) Lower the lifting device enough to remove the
axle. The coil springs will drop with the axle.
(17) Remove the coil springs from the axle.
3 - 20 FRONT AXLE - 186FBIWJ
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The weight of the vehicle must be sup-
ported by the springs before suspension arms and
track bar fasteners can be tightened. If springs are
not at their normal ride position, ride height and
handling could be affected.
(1) Install the springs and retainer clips. Tighten
the retainer bolts to 21 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(2) Support the axle on a lifting device and posi-
tion axle under the vehicle.
(3) Raise the axle and align it with the spring
pads.
(4) Position the upper and lower suspension arms
in the axle brackets. Loosely install bolts and nuts to
hold suspension arms to the axle brackets.
(5) Install vent hose to the axle shaft tube.
(6) Install track bar in the axle bracket and install
the bolt loosely.
(7) Install shock absorbers and tighten the bolts to
23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install stabilizer bar links to the axle brackets
and tighten the nuts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles.
(10) Install steering damper to the axle bracket
and tighten the nut to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install the brake rotors (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION) and calipers.
(12) Connect the wheel speed sensor wiring har-
ness to the vehicle wiring harness.
(13) Align the previously made marks on the pro-
peller shaft and the yoke/pinion flange.
(14) Install propeller shaft to pinion flange bolts ,
if equipped.
(15) Install propeller shaft to yoke straps and
bolts, if equipped.
(16) Check and fill axle lubricant.
(17) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(18) Remove the lifting device from the axle and
lower the vehicle.
(19) Tighten the upper suspension arm nuts to 75
N´m (55 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower suspension arm
nuts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(20) Tighten the track bar bolt at the axle bracket
to 100 N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(21) Check the front wheel alignment.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched onto each gear (Fig. 3). A plus
(+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is etched
into the face of the pinion gear. This number is theamount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth varies
from the standard depth setting of a pinion etched
with a (0). The standard setting from the center line
of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion is 92.1
mm (3.625 in.). The standard depth provides the best
gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to Backlash and
Contact Pattern Analysis paragraph in this section
for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/oil slinger. The shims are
placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 PINION GEAR ID NUMBERS
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - DRIVE PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 4 ADJUSTMENT SHIM LOCATIONS
1 - PINION DEPTH SHIM/OIL SLINGER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
3 - RING GEAR
4 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
5 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
WJFRONT AXLE - 186FBI 3 - 21
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
Differential Cracked 1. Improper adjustment of the
differential bearings.1. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set differential bearing pre-load
properly.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set ring gear backlash properly.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid excessive vehicle weight.
4. Erratic clutch operation. 4. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid erratic use of clutch.
WJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 53
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 93
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
(4) Position the lower tilting steering column
shroud to the underside of the steering column (Fig.
29).
(5) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
lower steering column shroud housing. Tighten the
screw to 1.9 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(6) Align the upper tilting steering column shroud
to the lower shroud and snap the two shroud halves
together.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
INSTALLATION - MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH
MOUNTING HOUSING
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain
that the front wheels are still in the straight-ahead
position.
(1) Rotate the turn signal cancel cam in the multi-
function switch housing until the alignment hole in
the one cam lobe is aligned with the alignment hole
in the back of the housing. The oblong hole in the
hub of the cam should now be at the top, and the
locating tab in the hub of the cam should be at the
bottom (Fig. 30).
(2) Position the multi-function switch housing onto
the top of the steering column. The locating tab in
the hub of the turn signal cancel cam must be
engaged with the alignment groove in the bottom of
the upper steering column shaft.
(3) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
multi-function switch housing to the top of the col-
umn housing (Fig. 31). Tighten the screw to 1.9 N´m
(17 in. lbs.).
(4) Reinstall the right multi-function switch onto
the multi-function switch housing. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/RIGHT MULTI-
FUNCTION SWITCH - INSTALLATION).
(5) Reinstall the left multi-function switch onto the
multi-function switch housing. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/LEFT
Fig. 29 Steering Column Shrouds Remove/Install
1 - UPPER TILTING COLUMN SHROUD
2 - FIXED COLUMN SHROUD
3 - LOWER TILTING COLUMN SHROUD
4 - SCREW
Fig. 30 Turn Signal Cancel Cam Alignment
1 - ALIGNMENT HOLE
2 - MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH MOUNTING HOUSING
3 - ALIGNMENT HOLE
4 - TURN SIGNAL CANCEL CAM
5 - LOCATING TAB
6 - WASHER
7 - TURN SIGNAL SWITCH CANCEL ACTUATOR
8L - 24 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORWJ
LEFT MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH (Continued)
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - BULBS
(1) Position the bulb in socket and push into place.
(2) Position the bulb socket in the lamp and rotate
clockwise.
(3) Install the lamp.
INSTALLATION - LAMP
The brake, turn signal, back-up, and side marker
lamps are incorporated in the tail lamp.
(1) Position the lamp.
(2) Connect the lamp wire harness connector.
(3) Align the pin with the retainer and press the
lamp inward to engage.
(4) Install the screws attaching the lamp to body.
TURN SIGNAL CANCEL CAM
DESCRIPTION
The turn signal cancel cam is concealed within the
multi-function switch housing below the steering
wheel and the clockspring mechanism. The turn sig-
nal cancel cam consists of a disc unit with two inte-
gral lobes. The upper lobe of the cam has an
alignment hole that is used to align it with another
hole in the back of the multi-function switch mount-
ing housing. The upper surface of the turn signal
cancel cam features three holes, two round and one
oblong. These holes engage and key the cancel cam to
three matching pins in the hub of the clockspring
mechanism. The hub of the clockspring and the turn
signal cancel cam rotate with the steering wheel. The
centered clockspring housing is then secured to the
multi-function switch mounting housing over the top
of the turn signal cancel cam.
The turn signal cancel cam is serviced as a assem-
bly with the multi-function switch housing. The turn
signal cancel cam cannot be repaired and, if faulty or
damaged, the multi-function switch mounting hous-
ing unit must be replaced. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/LEFT MULTI-
FUNCTION SWITCH - REMOVAL - MULTI-
FUNCTION SWITCH MOUNTING HOUSING).
OPERATION
The turn signal cancel cam has two lobes. When
the turn signals are activated by moving the left
multi-function switch control stalk to a detent posi-
tion, a turn signal cancel actuator is extended from
the inside surface of the multi-function switch hous-
ing toward the center of the steering column and the
turn signal cancel cam. When the steering wheel is
rotated during a turning maneuver, one of the two
turn signal cancel cam lobes will contact the turn sig-
nal cancel actuator. The cancel actuator latches
against the cancel cam rotation in the direction oppo-
site that which is signaled.
Fig. 33 Tail Lamp
1 - CONNECTOR
2 - RETAINER
3 - TAILLAMP (STOP, TURN, BACK-UP, SIDE MARKER)
4 - PIN
8L - 26 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORWJ
TAIL LAMP (Continued)
INSTALLATION
The following service procedure applies to vehicles
manufactured for sale in North America, which have
removable child seat tether anchor brackets that are
located on the inner liftgate opening header. Vehicles
manufactured for sale in Rest-Of-World (ROW) mar-
kets have child tether anchors that are integral to,
and are only serviced with the rear seat back panels.
(1) Position the child tether anchor bracket onto
the inner liftgate opening header (Fig. 12).
(2) Install and tighten the screw that secures the
child tether anchor bracket to the inner liftgate open-
ing header. Tighten the screw to 11.8 N´m (105 in.
lbs.).
(3) Reinstall the cover into the child tether anchor
bezel in the headliner near the liftgate opening
header.
CLOCKSPRING
DESCRIPTION
The clockspring assembly is secured with two
screws to the multi-function switch mounting hous-
ing near the top of the steering column behind the
steering wheel (Fig. 13). The clockspring consists of a
flat, round molded plastic case with a stubby tail
that hangs below the steering column and contains
two connector receptacles that face toward the
instrument panel (Fig. 14). Within the plastic hous-ing is a spool-like molded plastic rotor with a large
exposed hub. The upper surface of the rotor hub has
a large center hole, two large flats, an index hole,
two short pigtail wires with connectors, and two con-
nector receptacles that face toward the steering
wheel.
The lower surface of the rotor hub has three pins,
two round and one oblong. These pins index the
clockspring to the turn signal cancel cam unit in the
multi-function switch mounting housing. Within the
plastic case and wound around the rotor spool is a
long ribbon-like tape that consists of several thin cop-
per wire leads sandwiched between two thin plastic
membranes. The outer end of the tape terminates at
the connector receptacles that face the instrument
panel, while the inner end of the tape terminates at
the pigtail wires and connector receptacles on the
hub of the clockspring rotor that face the steering
wheel.
Service replacement clocksprings are shipped pre-
centered and with a molded plastic locking pin
installed. The locking pin secures the centered clock-
spring rotor to the clockspring case during shipment
and handling, but must be removed from the clock-
spring after it and the multi-function switch mount-
ing housing are installed on the steering column.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/CLOCK-
SPRING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - CLOCK-
SPRING CENTERING).
The clockspring cannot be repaired. If the clock-
spring is faulty, damaged, or if the driver airbag has
been deployed, the clockspring must be replaced.
Fig. 13 Clockspring (Upper View)
1 - MOUNTING EAR (2)
2 - LOCKING PIN
3 - UPPER CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE (2)
4 - LABEL
5 - OBLONG PIN
6 - ALIGNMENT ARROWS
7 - CASE
8 - PIGTAIL WIRE (2)
Fig. 14 Clockspring (Lower View)
1 - LOCKING PIN
2 - CASE
3 - OBLONG PIN
4 - ROUND PIN (2)
5 - LOWER CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE (2)
6 - ROTOR
8O - 14 RESTRAINTSWJ
CHILD TETHER ANCHOR (Continued)