2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE recommended oil

TRANSMISSION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
TRANS COOLER
DESCRIPTION.........................55STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING
COOLERS AND TUBES.................55
TRANS COOLER
DESCRIPTION
An internal high capacity/high efficiency cooler is
used on all vehicles these coolers are an oil-to-coolant
type which consists of plates mounted in the radiator
outlet tank (Fig. 36). Because the internal oil cooler
is so efficient, no auxiliary oil cooler is offered The
cooler is not servicable seperatly from the radiator.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING
COOLERS AND TUBES
When a transmission failure has contaminated the
fluid, the oil cooler(s) must be flushed. The torque
converter must also be replaced. This will insure that
metal particles or sludged oil are not later trans-
ferred back into the reconditioned (or replaced) trans-
mission.
The only recommended procedure for flushing cool-
ers and lines is to use Tool 6906-B Cooler Flusher.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR THAT
MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF OSHA AND ANSI
Z87.1±1968. WEAR STANDARD INDUSTRIAL RUB-
BER GLOVES.
KEEP LIGHTED CIGARETTES, SPARKS, FLAMES,
AND OTHER IGNITION SOURCES AWAY FROM THE
AREA TO PREVENT THE IGNITION OF COMBUSTI-
BLE LIQUIDS AND GASES. KEEP A CLASS (B) FIRE
EXTINGUISHER IN THE AREA WHERE THE
FLUSHER WILL BE USED.
KEEP THE AREA WELL VENTILATED.
DO NOT LET FLUSHING SOLVENT COME IN CON-
TACT WITH YOUR EYES OR SKIN: IF EYE CONTAM-
INATION OCCURS, FLUSH EYES WITH WATER FOR
15 TO 20 SECONDS. REMOVE CONTAMINATED
CLOTHING AND WASH AFFECTED SKIN WITH
SOAP AND WATER. SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION.
(1) Remove cover plate filler plug on Tool 6906-B.
Fill reservoir 1/2 to 3/4 full of fresh flushing solution.
Flushing solvents are petroleum based solutions gen-
erally used to clean automatic transmission compo-
nents.DO NOTuse solvents containing acids, water,
gasoline, or any other corrosive liquids.(2) Reinstall filler plug on Tool 6906-B.
(3) Verify pump power switch is turned OFF. Con-
nect red alligator clip to positive (+) battery post.
Connect black (-) alligator clip to a good ground.
(4) Disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission.
NOTE: When flushing transmission cooler and
lines, ALWAYS reverse flush.
NOTE: The converter drainback valve must be
removed and an appropriate replacement hose
installed to bridge the space between the transmis-
sion cooler line and the cooler fitting. Failure to
remove the drainback valve will prevent reverse
flushing the system. A suitable replacement hose
can be found in the adapter kit supplied with the
flushing tool.
(5) Connect the BLUE pressure line to the OUT-
LET (From) cooler line.
(6) Connect the CLEAR return line to the INLET
(To) cooler line
(7) Turn pump ON for two to three minutes to
flush cooler(s) and lines.
(8) Turn pump OFF.
(9) Disconnect CLEAR suction line from reservoir
at cover plate. Disconnect CLEAR return line at
cover plate, and place it in a drain pan.
(10) Turn pump ON for 30 seconds to purge flush-
ing solution from cooler and lines. Turn pump OFF.
(11) Place CLEAR suction line into a one quart
container of MopartATF +4, type 9602, Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
(12) Turn pump ON until all transmission fluid is
removed from the one quart container and lines. This
purges any residual cleaning solvent from the trans-
mission cooler and lines. Turn pump OFF.
(13) Disconnect alligator clips from battery. Recon-
nect flusher lines to cover plate, and remove flushing
adapters from cooler lines.
WJTRANSMISSION 7 - 55

(1) Confirm that the ignition switch is in the On
position.
(2) Ensure that the rear glass heating grid feed
and ground terminals are connected to the glass.
Confirm that the ground wire has continuity to
ground.
(3) Check the fused B(+) fuse in the Power Distri-
bution Center (PDC). The fuse must be tight in its
receptacles and all electrical connections must be
secure.
When the above steps have been completed and the
rear glass heating grid is still inoperative, one or
more of the following is faulty:
²Rear window defogger switch
²Rear window defogger relay
²Body Control Module (BCM)
²Rear window grid lines (all grid lines would
have to be broken or one of the feed wires discon-
nected for the entire system to be inoperative).
When the above steps have been completed and the
heated mirror glass heating grid is still inoperative,
one or more of the following is faulty:
²Body Control Module (BCM)
²Programmable Communications Interface (PCI)
data bus
²Driver Door Module (DDM) or Passenger Door
Module (PDM)
²Outside rear view mirror heating grids.
If turning the rear window defogger system on pro-
duces a severe voltmeter deflection, check for a short
circuit between the rear window defogger relay out-
put and the rear glass heating grid.
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
GRID
DESCRIPTION
The electrically heated rear window glass is stan-
dard equipment on this model. The liftgate flip-up
glass has two electrically conductive vertical bus bars
and a series of horizontal grid lines made of a silver-
ceramic material, which is baked on and bonded to
the inside surface of the glass. These grid lines and
the bus bars comprise a parallel electrical circuit. A
spade type terminal near the top of each bus bar
accept the connectors from the two coiled liftgate
wire harness take outs.
The grid lines and bus bars are highly resistant to
abrasion. However, it is possible for an open circuit
to occur in an individual grid line, resulting in no
current flow through the line. The grid lines can be
damaged or scraped off with sharp instruments. Care
should be taken when cleaning the glass or removing
foreign materials, decals, or stickers from the glass.Normal glass cleaning solvents or hot water used
with rags or toweling is recommended.
A repair kit is available to repair the grid lines and
bus bars, or to reinstall the heated glass terminals.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/HEATED GLASS/REAR
WINDOW DEFOGGER GRID - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
OPERATION
The rear glass heating grid is energized and de-en-
ergized by the rear window defogger relay. The Body
Control Module (BCM) monitors the rear window
defogger switch. When the BCM receives an input
from the switch, it energizes or de-energizes the rear
window defogger relay through a hard wired control
output. The rear defogger relay switches fused bat-
tery current to the rear window grid lines through
the bus bars. The grid lines heat the rear window
glass to clear the surface of ice, snow or fog. Protec-
tion for the rear glass heating grid circuit is provided
by a fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER GRID
For complete circuit diagrams, (Refer to Appropri-
ate Wiring Information). To detect breaks in the rear
glass heating grid lines, the following procedure is
required:
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Turn the rear window defogger system on. The rear
window defogger switch LED indicator should light.
If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/HEATED GLASS/REAR WINDOW DEFOG-
GER RELAY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(2) Using a 12-volt DC voltmeter, contact the rear
glass heating grid vertical bus bar on the right side
of the vehicle with the negative lead. With the posi-
tive lead, contact the rear glass heating grid vertical
bus bar on the left side of the vehicle. The voltmeter
should read battery voltage. If OK, go to Step 3. If
not OK, repair the open rear window defogger relay
output circuit to the rear window defogger relay as
required.
(3) With the positive voltmeter lead still contacting
the rear glass heating grid vertical bus bar on the
left side of the vehicle, move the negative lead of the
voltmeter to a good body ground point. The voltage
reading should not change. If OK, go to Step 4. If not
OK, repair the ground circuit to ground as required.
(4) Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to
the right side bus bar and touch each grid line at
midpoint C with the positive lead (Fig. 2). A reading
of approximately six volts indicates a line is good. A
reading of zero volts indicates a break in the grid
line between midpoint C and the left side rear glass
heating grid bus bar. A reading of ten to fourteen
WJHEATED GLASS 8G - 3
HEATED GLASS (Continued)

INSTALLATION
4.7L High-Output Engine Only
NOTE: The left sensor is identified by an identifica-
tion tag (LEFT). It is also identified by a larger bolt
head. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) must
have and know the correct sensor left/right posi-
tions. Do not mix the sensor locations.
(1) Thoroughly clean knock sensor mounting holes.
(2) Install sensors (Fig. 22) into cylinder block.
NOTE: Over or under tightening the sensor mount-
ing bolts will affect knock sensor performance, pos-
sibly causing improper spark control. Always use
the specified torque when installing the knock sen-
sors. The torque for the knock senor bolt is rela-
tively light for an 8mm bolt.
NOTE: Note foam strip on bolt threads. This foam is
used only to retain the bolts to sensors for plant
assembly. It is not used as a sealant. Do not apply
any adhesive, sealant or thread locking compound
to these bolts.
(3) Install and tighten mounting bolts.Bolt
torque is critical.Refer to torque specification.
(4) Install intake manifold. Refer to Engine sec-
tion.
(5) Connect knock sensor pigtail wiring harness to
engine wiring harness near right / rear of intake
manifold (Fig. 23).
SPARK PLUG
DESCRIPTION
Both the 4.0L 6-cylinder and the 4.7L V-8 engine
use resistor type spark plugs. Standard 4.7L V-8
engines are equipped with ªfired in suppressor sealº
type spark plugs using a copper core ground elec-
trode. High-Output (H.O.) 4.7L V-8 engines are
equipped with unique plugs using a platinum rivet
located on the tip of the center electrode.
Because of the use of an aluminum cylinder head
on the 4.7L engine, spark plug torque is very critical.
To prevent possible pre-ignition and/or mechanical
engine damage, the correct type/heat range/number
spark plug must be used.Do not substitute any
other spark plug on the 4.7L H.O. engine. Seri-
ous engine damage may occur.
Plugs on both engines have resistance values rang-
ing from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms (when checked with at
least a 1000 volt spark plug tester).Do not use an
ohmmeter to check the resistance values of thespark plugs. Inaccurate readings will result.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. A sin-
gle plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates
that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
Group O, Lubrication and Maintenance.
EXCEPT 4.7L H.O. ENGINE :Spark plugs that
have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not
otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled. Also refer to
Spark Plug Conditions.4.7L H.O. ENGINE :Never
clean spark plugs on the 4.7L H.O. engine. Damage
to the platinum rivet will result.
CAUTION: EXCEPT 4.7L H.O. ENGINE : Never use a
motorized wire wheel brush to clean the spark
plugs. Metallic deposits will remain on the spark
plug insulator and will cause plug misfire.
H.O. Gap Adjustment:If equipped with the 4.7L
H.O. engine, do not use a wire-type gapping tool as
damage to the platinum rivet on the center electrode
may occur. Use a tapered-type gauge (Fig. 24).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPARK PLUG
CONDITIONS
NORMAL OPERATING
The few deposits present on the spark plug will
probably be light tan or slightly gray in color. This is
evident with most grades of commercial gasoline
Fig. 24 PLUG GAP - 4.7L H.O.
1 - TAPER GAUGE
WJIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 15
KNOCK SENSOR (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

REMOVAL
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled,
babbitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cyl-
inder block and then line reamed. The camshaft
bearing bores and bearing diameters are not the
same size. They are stepped down in 0.254 mm
(0.010 inch) increments from the front bearing (larg-
est) to the rear bearing (smallest). This permits eas-
ier removal and installation of the camshaft. The
camshaft bearings are pressure lubricated. Camshaft
end play is maintained by the thrust plate.
(1) Remove the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
NOTE: It is not advisable to attempt to replace cam-
shaft bearings unless special removal and installa-
tion tools are available, such as recommended tool
8544 Camshaft Bushing Remover Installer.
(2) Using Special tool 8544 Camshaft Bushing
Remover Installer, remove the camshaft bearings.
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT
WARNING: THE COOLANT IN A RECENTLY OPER-
ATED ENGINE IS HOT AND PRESSURIZED.RELEASE THE PRESSURE BEFORE REMOVING
THE DRAIN COCK, CAP AND DRAIN PLUGS.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL) and condenser
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/A/C CONDENSER - REMOVAL), if
equipped with A/C.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the push rods.
(7) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOV-
AL).
(8) Remove the hydraulic valve tappets from the
engine cylinder block (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN BLOCK) -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(10) Remove the timing case cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is aligned on centerline with
the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig. 32).
(12) Remove the timing chain and sprockets (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the front bumper and/or grille, as
required.
(14) Remove the two thrust plate retaining screws,
thrust plate and camshaft (Fig. 31).
INSPECTION
INSPECTION - CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
(1) Inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear
pattern or finish.
(2) Inspect the bearings for wear.
INSPECTION - CAMSHAFT
(1) Inspect the cam lobes for wear.
(2) Inspect the camshaft position sensor drive gear
for wear.
(3) If the camshaft appears to have been rubbing
against the thrust washer, examine the oil pressure
Fig. 30 CamshaftÐTypical
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - LOBES
3 - BEARING JOURNAL
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 31
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (Continued)

relief holes in the rear cam journal. The oil pressure
relief holes must be free of debris.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
CAUTION: Make sure outside diameter of number 1
bearing is clean. Make sure that the bearing is
properly installed in the engine block, align the oil
hole in the bearing with the oil gallery in the bear-
ing bore. Failure to do so will cause inadequate oil
supply for the sprockets and timing chain.
(1) Using recommended special tool 8544 Cam-
shaft Bearing Remover/Installer, install new cam-
shaft bearings.
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT
(1) Lubricate the camshaft with MopartEngine
Oil Supplement, or equivalent.
(2) Carefully install the camshaft to prevent dam-
age to the camshaft bearings.
(3) Position thrust plate and install retaining
screws. Tighten screws to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(4) Lubricate the camshaft with Mopartengine oil
supplement, or equivalent.
(5) Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft
sprocket and timing chain (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION).
(6) Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer
to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(7) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft two full revolutions then
position the camshaft sprocket timing mark as shown
in (Fig. 33).
(8) Install the timing case cover with a replace-
ment oil seal (Fig. 34). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the vibration damper (Fig. 34) (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the hydraulic valve tappets (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the cylinder head gasket with the
numbers facing up.
(12) Install the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the push rods.
(14) Install the rocker arms and pivot and bridge
assemblies (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLA-
TION).
(15) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 31 Camshaft Removal
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - CRANKSHAFT
Fig. 32 Crankshaft / Camshaft Sprocket Timing Mark
Alignment
1 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
2 - TIMING MARKS
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
9 - 32 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (Continued)

VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL) and fan shroud.
(3) Remove the vibration damper retaining bolt
and washer.
(4) Use Vibration Damper Removal Tool 7697 to
remove the damper from the crankshaft (Fig. 70).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the
key. With the key in position, align the keyway on
the vibration damper hub with the crankshaft key
and tap the damper onto the crankshaft.
(2) Install the vibration damper retaining bolt and
washer.
(3) Tighten the damper retaining bolt to 108 N´m
(80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION) and fan shroud.
(5) Connect negative cable to battery.
STRUCTURAL SUPPORT
REMOVAL
The engine bending braces are used to add
strength to the powertrain and to address some
minor NVH concerns.
Fig. 68 Compression Ring Installation
1 - COMPRESSION RING
2 - RING EXPANDER RECOMMENDED
Fig. 69 Ring Gap Orientation
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING
2 - BOTTOM COMPRESSION RING
3 - TOP OIL CONTROL RAIL
4 - OIL RAIL SPACER
5 - BOTTOM OIL CONTROL RAIL
6 - IMAGINARY LINE PARALLEL TO PISTON PIN
7 - IMAGINARY LINE THROUGH CENTER OF PISTON SKIRT
Fig. 70 Vibration Damper Removal Tool 7697
1 - VIBRATION DAMPER REMOVAL TOOL
2 - WRENCH
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 49
PISTON RINGS (Continued)