2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Abs

FRAME & BUMPERS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FRONT ABSORBER
REMOVAL.............................1
INSTALLATION..........................1
FRONT FASCIA
REMOVAL.............................1
INSTALLATION..........................1
REAR ABSORBER
REMOVAL.............................2
INSTALLATION..........................2
REAR FASCIA
REMOVAL.............................2
INSTALLATION..........................4
FRAME
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
FRAME DIMENSIONS...................4
FRONT SKID PLATE
REMOVAL.............................7INSTALLATION..........................7
FRONT TOW HOOK
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................7
FUEL TANK SKID PLATE
DESCRIPTION..........................7
REAR TOW HOOK
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................7
TRAILER HITCH
REMOVAL.............................8
INSTALLATION..........................8
TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE
REMOVAL.............................8
INSTALLATION..........................8
FRONT ABSORBER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove front fascia, refer to (Refer to 13 -
FRAMES & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA
- REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the retainer attaching the absorber to
the fascia.
(3) Separate the absorber from the fascia.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the absorber on the fascia.
(2) Install the retainer attaching the absorber to
the fascia.
(3) Install front fascia. Refer to (Refer to 13 -
FRAMES & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA
- INSTALLATION).
FRONT FASCIA
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Turn front wheels to access rivets and remove
plastic rivets attaching fascia to wheel liner.
(3) Remove bolts attaching fascia to fender (Fig. 1).(4) Remove plastic push pin fasteners attaching
front fascia to lower radiator crossmember splash
shield (Fig. 2).
(5) Disengage fog lamp connectors, if equipped.
(6) Remove screws attaching fascia/grille to upper
radiator crossmember (Fig. 3).
(7) Slide fascia forward to separate from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide fascia onto vehicle engaging fascia with
tabs on bottom of front fenders.
(2) Install screws attaching fascia/grille to upper
radiator crossmember (Fig. 3).
(3) Install bolts attaching fascia to fender (Fig. 1).
(4) Engage fog lamp connectors, if equipped.
(5) Install plastic rivets attaching fascia to wheel
liner.
(6) Install plastic push pin fasteners attaching
front fascia to lower radiator crossmember splash
shield (Fig. 2).
(7) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
WJFRAME & BUMPERS 13 - 1

REAR ABSORBER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove rear fascia, refer to (Refer to 13 -
FRAMES & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/REAR FASCIA -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove rivets attaching absorber to rear cross-
member (Fig. 5).
(3) Separate absorber from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position absorber on vehicle.
(2) Install rivets attaching absorber to rear cross-
member (Fig. 2).
(3) Install rear fascia, refer to (Refer to 13 -
FRAMES & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/REAR FASCIA -
INSTALLATION).
REAR FASCIA
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheels.
(3) Remove plastic push pins attaching fascia to
fuel tank skid plate.
(4) Remove plastic rivets attaching fascia to wheel
liner.
Fig. 1 Front Fascia
1 - BODY
2 - FASCIA
Fig. 2 Front Fascia
1 - WHEEL LINER
2 - FASCIA
3 - FOG LAMP CONNECTOR
4 - PLASTIC PUSH PIN
5 - PLASTIC RIVET
Fig. 3 Front Fascia
1 - SCREW
2 - FASCIA
13 - 2 FRAME & BUMPERSWJ
FRONT FASCIA (Continued)

(5) Remove nuts attaching upper edge of fascia to
quarter panel and wheel liner (Fig. 4).
(6) Remove plastic push pins attaching fascia to
liftgate opening (Fig. 5).
(7) Remove screws attaching fascia to liftgate
opening.
(8) Remove D pillar trim and scuff plate outboard
screws.
(9) Remove the rearward tie down screws and the
aperture trim panel.
(10) Carefully peel back the rubber body sealer
patch to access the retainer clips.
(11) Release the forward and rearward retainer
clips on both sides of the fascia.
(12) Grasp forward edges of fascia and pull out-
ward to disengage retainers attaching fascia to quar-
ter panel (Fig. 6).
(13) Separate fascia from vehicle.
Fig. 5 Rear Fascia
1 - ABSORBER
2 - RIVET3 - FASCIA
4 - PLASTIC PUSH PIN
Fig. 4 Rear Fascia Attachment
1 - FASCIA
2 - PLASTIC PUSH PIN
WJFRAME & BUMPERS 13 - 3
REAR FASCIA (Continued)

(5)Pinch-Type Fitting:This fitting is equipped
with two finger tabs. Pinch both tabs together while
removing fitting (Fig. 44). Special tools are not
required for disconnection.
(6)Single-Tab Type Fitting:This type of fitting
is equipped with a single pull tab (Fig. 45). The tabis removable. After tab is removed, quick-connect fit-
ting can be separated from fuel system component.
Special tools are not required for disconnection.
(a) Press release tab on side of fitting to release
pull tab (Fig. 46).If release tab is not pressed
prior to releasing pull tab, pull tab will be
damaged.
(b) While pressing release tab on side of fitting,
use screwdriver to pry up pull tab (Fig. 46).
(c) Raise pull tab until it separates from quick-
connect fitting (Fig. 47).
(7)Two-Tab Type Fitting:This type of fitting is
equipped with tabs located on both sides of fitting
(Fig. 48). The tabs are supplied for disconnecting
quick-connect fitting from component being serviced.
(a) To disconnect quick-connect fitting, squeeze
plastic retainer tabs (Fig. 48) against sides of
quick-connect fitting with your fingers. Tool use is
not required for removal and may damage plastic
retainer.
(b) Pull fitting from fuel system component
being serviced.
(c) The plastic retainer will remain on compo-
nent being serviced after fitting is disconnected.
The o-rings and spacer will remain in quick-con-
nect fitting connector body.
(8)Plastic Retainer Ring Type Fitting:This
type of fitting can be identified by the use of a full-
round plastic retainer ring (Fig. 49) usually black in
color.
(a) To release fuel system component from quick-
connect fitting, firmly push fitting towards compo-
nent being serviced while firmly pushing plastic
retainer ring into fitting (Fig. 49). With plastic ring
Fig. 43 2-BUTTON TYPE FITTING
1 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
2 - PUSH-BUTTONS (2)
Fig. 44 PINCH TYPE QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
1 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
2 - PINCH TABS
Fig. 45 SINGLE-TAB TYPE FITTING
1 - PULL TAB
2 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
3 - PRESS HERE TO REMOVE PULL TAB
4 - INSERTED TUBE END
14 - 28 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
QUICK CONNECT FITTING (Continued)

MAP SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
On the 4.0L six-cylinder engine the MAP sensor is
mounted to the engine throttle body. On the 4.7L V-8
engine the MAP sensor is mounted to front of the
intake manifold.
DESCRIPTION - 4.7L
The MAP sensor is located on the front of the
intake manifold. An o-ring seals the sensor to the
intake manifold.
OPERATION
The MAP sensor is used as an input to the Power-
train Control Module (PCM). It contains a silicon
based sensing unit to provide data on the manifold
vacuum that draws the air/fuel mixture into the com-
bustion chamber. The PCM requires this information
to determine injector pulse width and spark advance.
When manifold absolute pressure (MAP) equals
Barometric pressure, the pulse width will be at max-
imum.
A 5 volt reference is supplied from the PCM and
returns a voltage signal to the PCM that reflects
manifold pressure. The zero pressure reading is 0.5V
and full scale is 4.5V. For a pressure swing of 0±15
psi, the voltage changes 4.0V. To operate the sensor,
it is supplied a regulated 4.8 to 5.1 volts. Ground is
provided through the low-noise, sensor return circuit
at the PCM.
The MAP sensor input is the number one contrib-
utor to fuel injector pulse width. The most important
function of the MAP sensor is to determine baromet-
ric pressure. The PCM needs to know if the vehicle is
at sea level or at a higher altitude, because the air
density changes with altitude. It will also help to cor-
rect for varying barometric pressure. Barometric
pressure and altitude have a direct inverse correla-
tion; as altitude goes up, barometric goes down. At
key-on, the PCM powers up and looks at MAP volt-
age, and based upon the voltage it sees, it knows the
current barometric pressure (relative to altitude).
Once the engine starts, the PCM looks at the voltage
again, continuously every 12 milliseconds, and com-
pares the current voltage to what it was at key-on.
The difference between current voltage and what it
was at key-on, is manifold vacuum.
During key-on (engine not running) the sensor
reads (updates) barometric pressure. A normal range
can be obtained by monitoring a known good sensor.
As the altitude increases, the air becomes thinner
(less oxygen). If a vehicle is started and driven to avery different altitude than where it was at key-on,
the barometric pressure needs to be updated. Any
time the PCM sees Wide Open Throttle (WOT), based
upon Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) angle and RPM,
it will update barometric pressure in the MAP mem-
ory cell. With periodic updates, the PCM can make
its calculations more effectively.
The PCM uses the MAP sensor input to aid in cal-
culating the following:
²Manifold pressure
²Barometric pressure
²Engine load
²Injector pulse-width
²Spark-advance programs
²Shift-point strategies (certain automatic trans-
missions only)
²Idle speed
²Decel fuel shutoff
The MAP sensor signal is provided from a single
piezoresistive element located in the center of a dia-
phragm. The element and diaphragm are both made
of silicone. As manifold pressure changes, the dia-
phragm moves causing the element to deflect, which
stresses the silicone. When silicone is exposed to
stress, its resistance changes. As manifold vacuum
increases, the MAP sensor input voltage decreases
proportionally. The sensor also contains electronics
that condition the signal and provide temperature
compensation.
The PCM recognizes a decrease in manifold pres-
sure by monitoring a decrease in voltage from the
reading stored in the barometric pressure memory
cell. The MAP sensor is a linear sensor; meaning as
pressure changes, voltage changes proportionately.
The range of voltage output from the sensor is usu-
ally between 4.6 volts at sea level to as low as 0.3
volts at 26 in. of Hg. Barometric pressure is the pres-
sure exerted by the atmosphere upon an object. At
sea level on a standard day, no storm, barometric
pressure is approximately 29.92 in Hg. For every 100
feet of altitude, barometric pressure drops .10 in. Hg.
If a storm goes through it can change barometric
pressure from what should be present for that alti-
tude. You should know what the average pressure
and corresponding barometric pressure is for your
area.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4.0L
The MAP sensor is mounted to the side of the
throttle body (Fig. 40). An L-shaped rubber fitting is
used to connect the MAP sensor to throttle body (Fig.
31).
(1) Remove air cleaner duct and air resonator box
at throttle body.
14 - 48 FUEL INJECTIONWJ

INSTALLATION - 4.7L
(1) Clean throttle body-to-intake manifold o-ring.
(2) Clean mating surfaces of throttle body and
intake manifold.
(3) Install throttle body to intake manifold by posi-
tioning throttle body to manifold alignment pins.
(4) Install three mounting bolts. Tighten bolts to
12 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install control cables.
(6) Install vacuum line to throttle body.
(7) Install electrical connectors.
(8) Install air duct/air box at throttle body.
THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4.0L
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage or kink the
cable core wire (within the cable sheathing) while
servicing accelerator pedal or throttle cable.
(1) From inside vehicle, hold up accelerator pedal.
Remove plastic cable retainer (clip) and throttle cable
core wire from upper end of pedal arm (Fig. 16).
Plastic cable retainer (clip) snaps into pedal arm.
(2) Remove cable core wire at pedal arm.
(3) From inside vehicle, remove clip holding cable
to dashpanel (Fig. 16).
(4) Remove cable housing from dash panel and
pull into engine compartment.
(5) Remove (unsnap) cable from routing clips on
engine valve cover.
(6) Remove cable connector at throttle body
bellcrank ball by unsnapping rearward (Fig. 37).
(7) Remove throttle cable from bracket by com-
pressing release tabs (Fig. 37) and pushing cable
through hole in bracket.
(8) Remove throttle cable from vehicle.
Fig. 35 Throttle Body and Sensor LocationsÐ4.0L
Engine
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
2 - THROTTLE BODY
3 - IAC MOTOR
4 - ELEC. CONN.
5 - TPS
6 - MAP SENSOR
7 - ELEC. CONN.
8 - IAT SENSOR
9 - ELEC. CONN.
Fig. 36 Throttle Body, Sensors and Electrical
ConnectorsÐ4.7L V-8 Engine
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS (3)
2 - THROTTLE BODY
3 - IAT SENSOR CONNECTOR
4 - IAC MOTOR CONNECTOR
5 - TPS CONNECTOR
14 - 54 FUEL INJECTIONWJ
THROTTLE BODY (Continued)

REMOVAL - 4.7L
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage or kink the
cable core wire (within the cable sheathing) while
servicing accelerator pedal or throttle cable.
(1) From inside vehicle, hold up accelerator pedal.
Remove plastic cable retainer (clip) and throttle cable
core wire from upper end of pedal arm (Fig. 16).
Plastic cable retainer (clip) snaps into pedal arm.
(2) Remove cable core wire at pedal arm.
(3) From inside vehicle, remove clip holding cable
to dashpanel (Fig. 16).
(4) Remove air box at throttle body.
(5) Unsnap cable from plenum routing clip.
(6) Remove cable housing from dash panel and
pull into engine compartment.
(7) Using finger pressure only, disconnect accelera-
tor cable connector at throttle body bellcrank pin by
pushing connector off bellcrank pin towards front of
vehicle (Fig. 38).DO NOT try to pull connector
off perpendicular to the bellcrank pin. Connec-
tor will be broken.(8) Lift accelerator cable from top of cable cam
(Fig. 38).
(9) Press tab (Fig. 39) to release plastic cable
mount from bracket.Press on tab only enough to
release cable from bracket. If tab is pressed too
much, it will be broken.Slide plastic mount (Fig.
39) towards passenger side of vehicle to remove cable
from bracket.
(10) Remove throttle cable from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION ± 4.0L
(1) Slide throttle cable through hole in bracket
until release tabs lock into bracket.
(2) Connect cable ball end to throttle body
bellcrank ball (snaps on).
(3) Snap cable into routing clips on engine valve
cover.
(4) Slide rubber grommet away from plastic cable
housing.
(5) Install rubber grommet into dash panel until
seated.
(6) Push cable housing into rubber grommet and
through opening in dash panel.
Fig. 37 Throttle (Accelerator) Cable at Throttle
BodyÐ4.0L Engine
1 - ACCELERATOR CABLE
2 - OFF
3 - OFF
4 - THROTTLE BODY BELLCRANK
5 - SPEED CONTROL CABLE
6 - RELEASE TABS
7 - BRACKET
Fig. 38 Accelerator Cable at Bell CrankÐ4.7L V-8
Engine
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - SPEED CONTROL CABLE CONNECTOR
3 - OFF
4 - OFF
5 - ACCELERATOR CABLE CONNECTOR
6 - CABLE CAM
7 - BELLCRANK
WJFUEL INJECTION 14 - 55
THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE (Continued)

necessary, the steering column assembly must be
replaced,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/COLUMN -
REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
IGNITION SWITCH REMOVAL
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for
cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed
first before removing ignition switch.
(1) Remove key cylinder. Refer to previous steps.
(2) Remove lower steering column cover screws
and remove cover (Fig. 19).
(3) Remove ignition switch mounting screw (Fig.
17). Use tamper proof torx bit to remove the screw.
(4) Using a small screwdriver, push on locking tab
(Fig. 15) and remove switch from steering column.
(5) Disconnect two electrical connectors at rear of
ignition switch (Fig. 17).
INSTALLATION
IGNITION SWITCH INSTALLATION
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for
cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed
first before removing ignition switch.(1) Before installing ignition switch, rotate the slot
in the switch to the ON position (Fig. 16).
(2) Connect two electrical connectors to rear of
ignition switch. Make sure that locking tabs are fully
seated into wiring connectors.
(3) Position switch to column and install tamper
proof screw. Tighten screw to 3 N´m (26 in. lbs.).
(4) Install steering column lower cover.
Fig. 15 Ignition Switch Lock Tab
1 - LOCK TAB
2 - IGNITION SWITCH
3 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 16 Switch In ON Position
1 - IGNITION SWITCH
2 - ROTATE TO ON POSITION
Fig. 17 Ignition Switch Removal/Installation
1 - TAMPER PROOF SCREW
2 - IGNITION SWITCH
3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS
WJCOLUMN 19 - 13
IGNITION SWITCH (Continued)