2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE engine coolant

CONNECTOR NAME/
NUMBERCOLOR LOCATION FIG.
Driver Power Seat Horizontal
Motor Sensor (Premium II/III)BK At Driver Seat N/S
Driver Power Seat Rear Riser
MotorRD At Driver Seat N/S
Driver Power Seat Rear Riser
Motor Sensor (Premium II/III)BK At Driver Seat N/S
Driver Power Seat Recliner
MotorBK At Driver Seat N/S
Driver Power Seat Recliner
Motor Sensor (Premium II/III)BK At Driver Seat N/S
Driver Power Seat Switch
(Midline/Premium)GN At Driver Seat N/S
Driver Rear Power Window
MotorBK In Left Rear Door 28
Driver Rear Power Window
SwitchBL In Left Rear Door 28
Driver Seat Belt Switch At Switch N/S
EGR Solenoid (Diesel) BK Left Front Fender 7, 8
Electric Brake BL Near Junction Block N/S
Electronic Speed Control Servo BK Right Front of Engine Compartment 5
Engine Control Module C1
(Diesel)BK Left Front of Engine 7, 8
Engine Control Module C2
(Diesel)BK Left Front of Engine 7, 8
Engine Coolant Temperature
Sensor (Diesel)BK Top of Engine N/S
Engine Coolant Temperature
Sensor (GAS)BK Front of Engine 9, 13
Engine Oil Pressure Sensor BK Side of Engine 10, 11, 13
EVAP/Purge Solenoid BK Left Front Fender Near Controller
Antilock Brake3
Front Power Outlet RD Center of Instrument Panel 19, 20
Front Washer Pump WT Left Front of Engine Compartment 3, 4
Front Wiper Motor BK Left Side of Cowl 3, 4
Fuel Injector No.1 BK At Injector 7, 9, 13
Fuel Injector No.2 BK At Injector 7, 9, 14, 15
Fuel Injector No.3 BK At Injector 7, 9, 13
Fuel Injector No.4 BK At Injector 7, 9, 14, 15
Fuel Injector No.5 BK At Injector 9, 13
Fuel Injector No.6 BK At Injector 9, 14, 15
Fuel Injector No.7 (4.7L) BK At Injector 13
Fuel Injector No.8 (4.7L) BK At Injector 14, 15
Fuel Pressure Sensor (Diesel) BK Right Front of Engine N/S
Fuel Pressure Solenoid
(Diesel)BK Top of Engine N/S
WJ8W-91 CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION 8W - 91 - 5
CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION (Continued)

SPLICE
NUMBERLOCATION FIG.
S122 (4.0L) Near T/O for G103 10, 11
S122 (4.7L) LHD Near T/O for Input Speed Sensor 15
S122 (4.7L) RHD Near T/O for Powertrain Control Module 16
S122 (Diesel) Near T/O for Generator N/S
S123 (4.0L) Near T/O for Capacitor 10, 11
S124 (4.7L) In Trough Near T/O for Capacitor No.2 13
S125 (Diesel) In T/O for C103 and C105 Left Rear of Engine Compartment N/S
S125 (Gas) Near T/O for Powertrain Control Module - C3 N/S
S126 (4.0L) LHD Near T/O for Battery Temperature Sensor N/S
S126 (4.0L) RHD In Trough Near T/O for Powertrain Control Module - C3 N/S
S127 (LHD) Gas In Trough Near T/O for Powertrain Control Module - C3 N/S
S127 (RHD) Gas In T/O for Power Distribution Center 5
S127 (Diesel) Near T/O for Power Distribution Center 4
S128 (Diesel) In T/O for C102 Left Rear of Engine Compartment N/S
S128 (LHD) Gas In Trough Near T/O for Powertrain Control Module - C3 N/S
S128 (RHD) Gas In T/O for C102 5
S130 (LHD) Gas In T/O for C102 N/S
S130 (RHD) Gas In T/O for Controller Antilock Brake 3
S130 (Diesel) In T/O for Controller Anti-Lock Brake 4
S131 In Trough Near T/O for Power Distribution Center 5
S131 (Diesel) Near T/O for Power Distribution Center 4
S132 (Diesel) Near T/O for EGR Solenoid N/S
S132 (Gas) Near T/O for Battery Temperature Sensor 5
S133 (Diesel) In Trough Near T/O for EGR Solenoid N/S
S133 (Gas) Near T/O for Battery Temperature Sensor 5
S134 (Diesel) In Trough Near T/O for G106/G107 4
S134 (Gas) In Trough Near T/O for Controller Anti-Lock Brake 3
S135 (Diesel) Near T/O for Engine Control Module C1 7, 8
S136 (Diesel) Near T/O for Engine Control Module C1 7, 8
S137 (Diesel) In Trough Near T/O for Coolant Level Sensor N/S
S139 (Diesel) Near T/O for Engine Control Module C1 7, 8
S140 (Diesel) Near T/O for Power Distribution Center 4
S140 (Gas) Near T/O for Controller Antilock Brake N/S
S141 (Gas) Near T/O for Controller Antilock Brake 3
S142 (Diesel) In Trough Near T/O for Coolant Level Sensor N/S
S142 Gas In T/O for C102 5
S143 (Diesel) In Trough Near T/O for Hood Ajar Switch 4
S143 (Gas,
Built-Up-Export)
LHDIn Trough Near T/O for Controller Antilock Brake 3
S143 Gas RHD Near T/O for Evap/Purge Solenoid N/S
S145 (Diesel) Near T/O for Engine Control Module C1 7, 8
WJ8W-91 CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION 8W - 91 - 13
CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder CYLINDER COMBUSTION
PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
9 - 8 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Mark the hinge locations on the hood panel for
alignment reference during installation. Remove the
engine compartment lamp. Remove the hood.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Remove the upper radiator hose and coolant
recovery hose.
(5) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(6) Remove upper radiator support retaining bolts
and remove radiator support.
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 4 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

(7) Remove the fan assembly from the water pump
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud.
(9) Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines
(automatic transmission).
(10) Discharge the A/C system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove the service valves and cap the com-
pressor ports.
(12) Remove the radiator or radiator/condenser (if
equipped with A/C).
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine
thermostat housing and water pump.
(14) Disconnect the accelerator cable, transmission
line pressure cable and speed control cable (if
equipped) from the throttle body.
(15) Remove cables from the bracket and secure
out of the way.
(16) Disconnect the body ground at the engine.
(17) Disconnect the following connectors and
secure their harness out of the way.
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(18) Disconnect the coil rail electrical connections
and the oil pressure switch connector.
(19) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Disconnect the fuel supply line at the injector
rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(21) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(22) Remove the air cleaner assembly (Fig. 5).
(23) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(24) Drain the pump reservoir.
(25) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the sys-
tem.
(26) Raise and support the vehicle.
(27) Disconnect the wires from the engine starter
motor solenoid.(28) Remove the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
REMOVAL).
(29) Disconnect the oxygen sensor from the
exhaust pipe.
(30) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(31) Remove the exhaust pipe support.
(32) Remove the bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
REMOVAL).
(33) Remove the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(34) Mark the converter and drive plate location.
(35) Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(36) Remove the upper engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(37) Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(38) Lower the vehicle.
(39) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(40) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(41) Place a support or floor jack under the con-
verter (or engine flywheel) housing.
(42) Remove the remaining converter (or engine
flywheel) housing bolts.
(43) Lift the engine out of the engine compart-
ment.
Fig. 5 Air Cleaner Assembly
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP
2 - AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY
9 - 12 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When installing the engine into a vehicle
equipped with an automatic transmission, be care-
ful not to damage the trigger wheel on the engine
flywheel.
(1) Attach a lifting device to the engine and lower
the engine into the engine compartment. For easier
installation, it may be necessary to remove the
engine mount bracket as an aid in alignment of the
engine to the transmission.
(2) Align the transmission torque converter hous-
ing with the engine.
(3) Loosely install the converter housing lower
bolts and install the next higher bolt and nut on each
side.
(4) Tighten all 4 bolts finger tight.
(5) Install the engine mount brackets (if removed).
(6) Lower the engine and engine mount brackets
onto the engine compartment cushions. Install the
bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(7) Remove the engine lifting device.
(8) Raise and support the vehicle.
(9) Install the remaining engine flywheel/converter
housing bolts. Tighten all bolts to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Install the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(11) Ensure the installation reference marks are
aligned.
(12) Install the engine flywheel/converter housing
access cover.
(13) Install the exhaust pipe support and tighten
the screw.
(14) Install the engine bending brace (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCT SUPPORT -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Tighten the engine mount-to-bracket bolts.
(16) Connect the vehicle speed sensor wire connec-
tions and tighten the screws.
(17) Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
(18) Install the engine starter motor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(19) Connect the wires to the engine starter motor
solenoid.
(20) Lower the vehicle.
(21) Connect all the vacuum hoses and wire con-
nectors identified during engine removal.
(22) Remove protective caps from the power steer-
ing hoses.
(23) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 N´m (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(24) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.(25) Inspect the fuel supply line o-ring(s) and
replace if necessary. Connect fuel supply line to injec-
tior rail and verify connection by pulling outward on
the line.
(26) Install the fuel line bracket to the intake
manifold.
(27) Connect the coil rail electrical connectors and
oil pressure switch connector.
(28) Connect the following electrical connectors:
²Power steering pressure switch
²Coolant temperature sensor
²Six (6) fuel injector connectors
²Intake air temperature sensor
²Throttle position sensor
²Map sensor
²Crankshaft position sensor
²Oxygen sensor
²Camshaft position sensor
²Generator connector and B+ terminal wire
(29) Connect all previously removed vacuum hoses.
(30) Connect the body ground strap.
(31) Install the throttle, transmission line pres-
sure, and speed control cables to their mounting
bracket and connect them to the throttle body.
(32) Connect the heater hoses at the engine ther-
mostat housing and water pump.
(33) Install the fan assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(34) Place the fan shroud in position over the fan.
(35) Install the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(36) Connect the service valves to the A/C com-
pressor ports, if equipped with A/C.
(37) Charge the air conditioner system (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(38) Connect the radiator hoses and automatic
transmission fluid cooler pipes, if equipped.
(39) Install the fan shroud to the radiator or radi-
ator/condenser (if equipped with A/C).
(40) Install upper radiator support.
(41) Connect the upper radiator hose and tighten
the clamp.
(42) Connect the lower radiator hose and tighten
the clamp.
(43) Fill crankcase with engine oil. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID CAPACI-
TIES - SPECIFICATIONS) for correct capacities.
(44) Fill the cooling system with reusable coolant
or new coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(45) Align the hood to the scribe marks. Install the
hood.
(46) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(47) Install the battery and connect the battery
cable.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 13
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)