2002 DODGE RAM ESP

move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to
prevent rotation.
(3) Hold a scale with dimensional reading even
with the edge of a chain link. With cylinder heads
installed, apply 14 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque in the
reverse direction. With the cylinder heads removed,
apply 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direc-
tion. Note the amount of chain movement (Fig. 74).
(4) Install a new timing chain, if its movement
exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 inch).
INSTALLATION
(1) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
(2) Place timing chain around both sprockets.
(3) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in cam-
shaft sprocket.
(4) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as described).
(5) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment
of timing marks (Fig. 75).
(6) Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 68
N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Check camshaft end play. The end play should
be 0.051-0.152 mm (0.002-0.006 inch) with a new
thrust plate and up to 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) with a
used thrust plate. If not within these limits install a
new thrust plate.
(8) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 73 Alignment of Timing Marks
1 - TIMING MARKS
Fig. 74 Measuring Timing Chain Stretch
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - 3.175 MM
(0.125 IN.)
Fig. 75 Alignment of Timing Marks
1 - TIMING MARKS
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 55
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks havebeen corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 36).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 91
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) With engine raised SLIGHTLY, position the
engine support bracket/cushion and heat shields to
the block. Install new bolts and tighten to 81 N´m (60
ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the thru-bolt and 2 piece rubber engine
rubber restrictors onto the engine support bracket/
cushion.
(3) Lower engine with support/lifting fixture while
guiding the engine bracket/cushion and thru-bolt into
support cushion brackets (Fig. 49) .
(4) Install thru-bolt nuts and tighten the nuts to
68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove lifting fixture.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Position a transmission jack in place.
(3) Remove support cushion stud nuts (Fig. 50).
(4) Raise rear of transmission and engine
SLIGHTLY.
(5) Remove the bolts holding the support cushion
to the transmission support bracket. Remove the sup-
port cushion.
(6) If necessary, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support bracket to the transmission.
INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, position the transmission support
bracket to the transmission. Install new attaching
bolts and tighten to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position support cushion to transmission sup-
port bracket. Install stud nuts and tighten to 47 N´m
(35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Using the transmission jack, lower the trans-
mission and support cushion onto the crossmember
(Fig. 50) .
(4) Install the support cushion bolts and tighten to
47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
A pressure feed type (gerotor) oil pump is located
in the engine front cover. The pump uses a pick-up
tube and screen assembly to gather engine oil from
the oil pan (Fig. 51).
OPERATION
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet
tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil
is driven between the inner and outer gears of the oil
pump, then forced through the outlet in the engine
front cover. An oil gallery in the front cover channels
the oil to the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After
passing through the filter element, the oil passes
from the center outlet of the filter through an oil gal-
lery that channels the oil up to the tappet galleries,
which extends the entire length of block.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oil
passes through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, cylinder walls, and piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
Fig. 49 Positioning Engine MountsÐFront
1 - ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET/CUSHION
2 - SUPPORT CUSHION BRACKET
9 - 98 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

all components so they can be installed in their orig-
inal locations.
(8) Repeat the procedure on all cylinders to be ser-
viced.
CLEANING
Clean the valve stems with crocus cloth or a
Scotch-BriteŸ pad. Remove carbon with a soft wire
brush. Clean valves, springs, retainers, and valve
retaining locks in a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the valves for abnormal wear on
the heads, stems, and tips. Replace any valve that is
worn out or bent (Fig. 40).
Measure the valve stem diameter in three places
as shown in (Fig. 41). Measure the cylinder head
valve guide bore (Fig. 42). Subtract the corresponding
Fig. 36 Injector Clamp Removal/Installation
1 - DO NOT REMOVE
2 - INJECTOR CLAMP
Fig. 37 Spring Compressor Mounting BaseÐPart of
Tool 8319±A
1 - COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BASE
Fig. 38 Compressing Valve Springs with Tool
8319±A
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8319
Fig. 39 Valve Spring, Seal, and Retainers
1 - VALVE RETAINING LOCKS
2 - VALVE
3 - SEAL
4 - SPRING
5 - RETAINER
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 139
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

(5) Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
(a) Remove any carbon ridge formations or
deposits at the top of the bore with a dull scraper
or soft wire brush.
(b) If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a
ridge reamer to cut the ridge from the bore. DO
NOT remove more metal than necessary to remove
the ridge.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are
oversize and will more than likely need boring.
(6) Using a hammer and steel stamp, identify the
front of the piston by stamping the cylinder number
in each piston to be removed at the top of the piston
toward the front of the engine. DO NOT stamp in the
outside 5 mm (.197 in.) of the piston diameter.
(7) Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cor-
responding cylinder numbers.
(8) Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps.
Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods
are not damaged.
(9) Use a hammer handle or similar object to push
the piston and connecting rod through the cylinder
bore.
(10) Store the piston/rod assemblies in a rack.
(11) If a piston must be replaced, replace with the
same part number (grading) that was removed.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use bead blast to clean the pis-
tons. DO NOT clean the pistons and rods in an acid
tank.
Clean the pistons and pins in a suitable solvent,
rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
Soaking the pistons over night will loosen most of the
carbon build up. De-carbon the ring grooves with a
broken piston ring and again clean the pistons in sol-vent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
Inspect the pistons for damage and excessive wear.
Check top of the piston, ring grooves, skirt and pin
bore. Measure the piston skirt diameter (Fig. 128). If
the piston is out of limits, replace the piston.
The upper groove only needs to be inspected for
damage. Use a new piston ring to measure the clear-
ance in the intermediate ring groove (Fig. 129). If the
clearance of the intermediate ring exceeds 0.095 mm
(0.0038 inch), replace the piston.
Use a new oil ring to measure the clearance in the
oil groove (Fig. 129). If the clearance exceeds 0.085
mm (0.0034 inch), replace the piston.
Measure the pin bore (Fig. 130). The maximum
diameter is 40.012 mm (1.5753 inch). If the bore is
over limits, replace the piston.
Inspect the piston pin for nicks, gouges and exces-
sive wear. Measure the pin diameter (Fig. 131). The
minimum diameter is 39.990 mm (1.5744 inch). If the
diameter is out of limits, replace the pin.
Connecting Rods
CLEANING
Clean the connecting rods in a suitable solvent,
rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect the connecting rod for damage and wear.
The I-Beam section of the connecting rod cannot have
dents or other damage. Damage to this part can
cause stress risers which will progress to breakage.
Fig. 127 Piston Grading Measurement
Fig. 128 Piston Skirt Diameter
PISTON SKIRT DIAMETER (MIN.)
101.864 mm (4.0104 in. )
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 169
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

(9) Inspect fuel tube quick-connect fitting-to-fuel
rail connections.
(10) Verify that hose connections to all ports of
vacuum fittings on intake manifold are tight and not
leaking.
(11) Inspect accelerator cable, transmission throt-
tle cable (if equipped) and cruise control cable con-
nections (if equipped). Check their connections to the
throttle arm of throttle body for any binding or
restrictions.
(12) If equipped with vacuum brake booster, verify
that vacuum booster hose is firmly connected to fit-
ting on intake manifold. Also check connection to
brake vacuum booster.
(13) Inspect the air cleaner inlet and air cleaner
element for dirt or restrictions.
(14) Inspect radiator grille area, radiator fins and
air conditioning condenser for restrictions.
(15) Verify that the intake manifold air tempera-
ture sensor wire connector is firmly connected to har-
ness connector (Fig. 5).
(16) Verify that MAP sensor electrical connector is
firmly connected to MAP sensor (Fig. 6). Also verify
that rubber L-shaped fitting from MAP sensor to the
throttle body is firmly connected (Fig. 7).
(17) Verify that fuel injector wire harness connec-
tors are firmly connected to injectors in the correct
order. Each harness connector is numerically tagged
with the injector number (INJ 1, INJ 2 etc.) of its
corresponding fuel injector and cylinder number.
(18) Verify harness connectors are firmly con-
nected to idle air control (IAC) motor, throttle posi-
tion sensor (TPS) and manifold absolute pressure
(MAP) sensor (Fig. 6).(19) Verify that wire harness connector is firmly
connected to the engine coolant temperature sensor
(Fig. 8).
(20) Raise and support the vehicle.
(21) Verify oxygen sensor wire connectors are
firmly connected to the sensors. Inspect sensors and
connectors for damage (Fig. 9), (Fig. 10) or (Fig. 11).
Fig. 4 PCV Valve
1 - P C V VA LV E
2 - PCV VALVE HOSE CONNECTIONS
Fig. 5 Air Temperature
1 - INTAKE MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 6 Sensor and IAC Motor LocationÐTypical (V-8
Shown)
1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR
3 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
14 - 30 FUEL INJECTION - GASOLINEBR/BE
FUEL INJECTION - GASOLINE (Continued)

(11) Inspect accelerator cable, transmission throt-
tle cable (if equipped) and cruise control cable con-
nections (if equipped). Check their connections to the
throttle arm of throttle body for any binding or
restrictions.
(12) If equipped with vacuum brake booster, verify
that vacuum booster hose is firmly connected to fit-
ting on intake manifold. Also check connection to
brake vacuum booster.
(13) Inspect the air cleaner inlet and air cleaner
element for dirt or restrictions.
(14) Inspect radiator grille area, radiator fins and
air conditioning condenser for restrictions.
(15) Verify that the intake manifold air tempera-
ture sensor wire connector is firmly connected to har-
ness connector (Fig. 15).(16) Verify that MAP sensor electrical connector is
firmly connected to MAP sensor (Fig. 16).
(17) Verify that fuel injector wire harness connec-
tors are firmly connected to injectors in the correct
order. Each harness connector is numerically tagged
with the injector number (INJ 1, INJ 2 etc.) of its
corresponding fuel injector and cylinder number.
(18) Verify harness connectors are firmly con-
nected to idle air control (IAC) motor and throttle
position sensor (TPS).
(19) Verify that wire harness connector is firmly
connected to the engine coolant temperature sensor
(Fig. 17).
Fig. 14 Ignition Coil PackÐ8.0L Engine
Fig. 15 Air Temperature SensorÐ8.0L Engine
1 - INTAKE MANIFOLD AIR TEMP. SENSOR
2 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
Fig. 16 Map Sensor Ð8.0L Engine
1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - THROTTLE BODY
Fig. 17 Engine Coolant Temperature SensorÐ8.0L
Engine
1 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR
2 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
3 - GENERATOR
BR/BEFUEL INJECTION - GASOLINE 14 - 33
FUEL INJECTION - GASOLINE (Continued)

²Spark-advance programs
²Shift-point strategies (certain automatic trans-
missions only)
²Idle speed
²Decel fuel shutoff
The MAP sensor signal is provided from a single
piezoresistive element located in the center of a dia-
phragm. The element and diaphragm are both made
of silicone. As manifold pressure changes, the dia-
phragm moves causing the element to deflect, which
stresses the silicone. When silicone is exposed to
stress, its resistance changes. As manifold vacuum
increases, the MAP sensor input voltage decreases
proportionally. The sensor also contains electronics
that condition the signal and provide temperature
compensation.
The PCM recognizes a decrease in manifold pres-
sure by monitoring a decrease in voltage from the
reading stored in the barometric pressure memory
cell. The MAP sensor is a linear sensor; meaning as
pressure changes, voltage changes proportionately.
The range of voltage output from the sensor is usu-
ally between 4.6 volts at sea level to as low as 0.3
volts at 26 in. of Hg. Barometric pressure is the pres-
sure exerted by the atmosphere upon an object. At
sea level on a standard day, no storm, barometric
pressure is approximately 29.92 in Hg. For every 100
feet of altitude, barometric pressure drops .10 in. Hg.
If a storm goes through it can change barometric
pressure from what should be present for that alti-
tude. You should know what the average pressure
and corresponding barometric pressure is for your
area.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 5.9L
The MAP sensor is located on the front of the
throttle body (Fig. 35). An L-shaped rubber fitting is
used to connect the MAP sensor to throttle body (Fig.
36).
The MAP sensor is located on the front of the
throttle body (Fig. 35). An L-shaped rubber fitting is
used to connect the MAP sensor to throttle body (Fig.
36).
(1) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(2) Remove two MAP sensor mounting bolts
(screws) (Fig. 35).
(3) While removing MAP sensor, slide the vacuum
rubber L-shaped fitting (Fig. 36) from the throttle
body.
(4) Remove rubber L-shaped fitting from MAP sen-
sor.
REMOVAL - 8.0L
The MAP sensor is mounted into the right upper
side of the intake manifold (Fig. 37). A rubber gasket
is used to seal the sensor to the intake manifold. The
rubber gasket is part of the sensor and is not ser-
viced separately.
(1) Remove the electrical connector at the sensor.
Fig. 35 MAP Sensor LocationÐ5.9L Engines
1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - MOUNTING SCREWS (2)
Fig. 36 MAP Sensor L-Shaped Rubber FittingÐ5.9L
Engines
1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - RUBBER FITTING
3 - IDLE AIR PASSAGE
14 - 44 FUEL INJECTION - GASOLINEBR/BE
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR (Continued)