2002 DODGE RAM wheel alignment

(2) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
21) and verify fork and bearing are secured by spring
clips. Also be sure that the release fork is installed
properly.
NOTE: The rear side of the release lever has one
end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(3) Install clutch housing, if removed.(4) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case for procedures.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
Fig. 20 Clutch Release Components
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING
Fig. 21 Clutch Release Fork
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 13
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2) Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press
plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission, transfer case, if
equipped and clutch housing. Refer to 21 Transmis-
sion and Transfer Case for procedures.
(2) Remove pressure plate and disc.
(3) Using a suitable blind hole puller to remove
pilot bearing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 22). Keep bearing straight and tap bearing into
place until flush with edge of bearing bore. Do not
recess bearing.
(3) Install clutch cover and disc.
(4) Install clutch housing, transmission and trans-
fer case, if equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and
Transfer Case for procedures.
Fig. 22 Installing Pilot Bearing
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
6 - 14 CLUTCHBR/BE
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
4. Improperly operating viscous fan
drive.4. Inspect/replace fan drive.
5. Worn or damaged generator
bearing.5. Check/replace generator.
6. Flywheel housing misaligned. 6. Check/correct flywheel alignment.
7. Loose or broken power
component.7. Inspect the crankshaft and rods for
damage that causes an unbalance
condition. Repair/replace as required.
8. Worn or unbalanced driveline
components.8. Check/repair driveline components.
EXCESSIVE ENGINE
NOISES1. Drive belt squeal, insufficient
tension or abnormally high loading.1. Check the automatic tensioner and
inspect the drive belt. Make sure water
pump, tensioner pulley, fan hub and
generator turn freely.
2. Intake air or exhaust leaks. 2. Refer to Excessive Exhaust Smoke
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
3. Excessive valve lash. 3. Adjust valves. Make sure the push rods
are not bent and rocker arms, adjusting
screws, crossheads, are not severely worn.
Replace bent or severely worn components.
4. Turbocharger noise. 4. Check turbocharger impeller and turbine
wheel for housing contact. Repair/replace
as required.
5. Gear train noise. 5. Visually inspect and measure gear
backlash. Replace gears as required.
6. Power function knock. 6. Check/replace rod and main bearings.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐSMOKE
DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
The following charts include possible causes and
corrections forexcess or abnormalexhaust smoke.Small amounts of exhaust smoke (at certain times)
are to be considered normal for a diesel powered
engine.
EXCESSIVE BLACK SMOKE
POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Air filter dirty or plugged. Check Filter MinderTat air filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
AIR INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT -
REMOVAL).
Air intake system restricted. Check entire air intake system including all hoses and
tubes for restrictions, collapsed parts or damage.
Repair/replace as necessary.
Air Leak in Intake System. Check entire air intake system including all hoses and
tubes for cracks, loose clamps and/or holes in rubber
ducts. Also check intake manifold for loose mounting
hardware.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) active or multiple,
intermittent DTC's.Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information.
9 - 118 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(6) Install #10 sheet metal screws in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(Fig. 108).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(1) Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable
solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or com-
pressed air. Wipe the inside bore of the crankshaft
seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
(2) Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges,
nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the
crankshaft is excessively deep, install the new seal
1/8º deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crank-
shaft wear sleeve that is available in the aftermar-
ket.
(3) Install the seal pilot, provided in the replace-
ment kit, onto the crankshaft.
(4) Using the provided alignment/installation tool,
start the seal over the pilot and into the retainer by
hand.
(5) Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool at
the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions until the align-
ment tool bottoms out on the retainer (Fig. 109).
(6) Remove the seal pilot.
(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 60 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5) Remove flywheel or torque converter drive
plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Disconnect cables from starter motor.
(9) Remove the eight flywheel housing to block
bolts and remove housing and starter motor as an
assembly.
Fig. 108 Crankshaft Rear Seal Removal
1 - NO. 10 SCREW
2 - REAR SEAL
3 - CRANKSHAFT
4 - SLIDE HAMMER
Fig. 109 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
9 - 162 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

(8) Install the oil pan, suction tube and gaskets
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 60 N´m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install the starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTAL-
LATION).
(11) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.)
(12) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(13) Lower vehicle.(14) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(15) Connect the battery negative cables.
(16) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires use of Miller Tool
8502 Tappet Replacement Kit, or Cummins Tool Kit
#3822513.
(1) Remove camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
(2) Insert the trough (provided with tool kit) the
full length of the camshaft bore (Fig. 115). Make sure
the cap end goes in first and the open side faces up
(towards tappets).
(3)Remove only one tappet at a time.Remove
rubber band from one cylinder pair and attach tappet
dowel not being removed to the next cylinder pair
(Fig. 116).
(4) Raise dowel rod (disengage from tappet) and
allow tappet to fall into trough (Fig. 117).
(5) Carefully remove trough(do not rotate)and
tappet. If the tappet is not being replaced, mark it so
it can be installed in its original location.
(6) Re-install trough and repeat procedure on
remaining tappets.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
Fig. 113 Installing Seal Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 114 Trimming Excess Gasket Material
1 - GASKET
Fig. 115 Inserting the Trough
1 - TROUGH
9 - 164 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

CAUTION: The turbocharger is only serviced as an
assembly. Do not attempt to repair the turbocharger
as turbocharger and/or engine damage can result.
CLEANING
Clean the turbocharger and exhaust manifold
mounting surfaces with a suitable scraper.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust
manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded
mounting studs.
(1) Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks.
The following cracks are NOT acceptable:
²Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing
that go completely through.
²Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer
than 15 mm (0.6 in.).
²Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect
bolt through-holes.
²Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are
closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together.
(2) Visually inspect the impeller and compressor
wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some
impellers may have a factory placed paint mark
which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack.
Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify
that it is not a crack.
(3) Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor
housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 26).
Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists.
(4) Measure the turbocharger axial end play:
(a) Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 27).
Zero the indicator at one end of travel.
Fig. 23 Exhaust Pipe Removal/Installation
1 - EXHAUST PIPE
2 - TURBOCHARGER EXHAUST PIPE
Fig. 24 Turbocharger Air Inlet Hose
1 - AIR FILTER HOUSING COVER
2 - TURBOCHARGER
3 - AIR INLET TUBE
4 - HOSE CLAMP
5 - HINGE TABS
6 - FILTER MINDER
7 - CLIPS (4)
8 - TUBE ALIGNMENT NOTCHES
Fig. 25 Oil Supply Line and Charge Air Cooler Inlet
Duct
1 - EXHAUST PIPE
2 - TURBOCHARGER
3 - AIR INLET TUBE
4 - COOLER INLET DUCT
11 - 16 EXHAUST SYSTEMBR/BE
TURBOCHARGER (Continued)

BINDING AND STICKING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
DIFFICULT TO TURN WHEEL
STICKS OR BINDS1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Tire pressure. 2. Adjust tire pressure.
3. Steering components (ball
joints/tie rod ends).3. Lube, inspect and repair as
necessary.
4. Loose belt. 4. Adjust or replace.
5. Low pump pressure. 5. Pressure test and replace if
necessary.
6. Column shaft coupler binding. 6. Replace coupler.
7. Steering gear worn or out of
adjustment.7. Repair or replace gear.
INSUFFICIENT ASST. OR POOR RETURN TO CENTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
HARD TURNING OR MOMENTARY
INCREASE IN TURNING EFFORT1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Low fluid level. 2. Fill to proper level.
3. Loose belt. 3. Adjust or replace.
4. Lack of lubrication. 4. Inspect and lubricate steering and
suspension compnents.
5. Low pump pressure. 5. Pressure test and repair as
necessary.
6. Internal gear leak. 6. Pressure and flow test, and repair
as necessary.
STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT
WANT TO RETURN TO CENTER
POSITION1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Wheel alignment. 2. Align front end.
3. Lack of lubrication. 3. Inspect and lubricate steering and
suspension compnents.
4. High friction in steering gear. 4. Test and adjust gear as
necessary.
BR/BESTEERING 19 - 3
STEERING (Continued)

LOOSE STEERING AND VEHICLE LEAD
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN STEERING
WHEEL1. Worn or loose suspension or
steering components.1. Inspect and repair as necessary.
2. Worn or loose wheel bearings. 2. Inspect and repair or adjust
bearings.
3. Steering gear mounting. 3. Tighten gear mounting bolts to
specification.
4. Gear out of adjustment. 4. Adjust gear to specification.
5. Worn or loose steering coupler. 5. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
VEHICLE PULLS OR LEADS TO
ONE SIDE.1. Tire Pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Radial tire lead. 2. Rotate tires.
3. Brakes dragging. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Wheel alignment. 4. Align front end.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING
FLOW AND PRESSURE
The following procedure is used to test the opera-
tion of the power steering system on the vehicle. This
test will provide the flow rate of the power steering
pump along with the maximum relief pressure. Per-
form test any time a power steering system problem
is present. This test will determine if the power
steering pump or power steering gear is not function-
ing properly. The following pressure and flow test is
performed using Power Steering Analyzer Tool kit
6815 (Fig. 2) and Adapter Kit 6893.
POWER STEERING ANALYZER INSTALLATION
WITHOUT HYDRAULIC BOOSTER
(1) Remove the high pressure hose from the power
steering pump.
(2) Connect Tube 6844 into the pump hose fitting.
(3) Connect pressure gauge hose from the Power
Steering Analyzer to Tube 6844.
(4) Connect Adapter 6826 to Power Steering Ana-
lyzer test valve end.
(5) Connect the power steering hose from the
steering gear to Adapter 6826.
WITH HYDRAULIC BOOSTER
(1) Remove high pressure hose which goes to the
steering gear from the tube coming out of the booster.
(2) Connect Adapter 6826 to the Power Steering
Analyzer pressure gauge hose.
(3) Connect pressure gauge hose to the tube com-
ing out of the booster.
(4) Connect Tube 6844 to the steering gear hose
and Power Steering Analyzer test valve end.
FLOW AND PRESSURE TEST
(1) Check belt condition and tension.
(2) Open the test valve completely.
(3) Start engine and let idle long enough to circu-
late power steering fluid through flow/pressure test
gauge and to get air out of the fluid. Then shut off
engine.
(4) Check fluid level, add fluid as necessary. Start
engine again and let idle.
(5) Gauge should read below 1034 kPa (150 psi), if
above, inspect the hoses for restrictions and repair as
Fig. 2 Pressure Test Gauge
1 - GAUGE HOSE
2 - TUBE
3 - ADAPTER FITTINGS
4 - ANALYZER
19 - 4 STEERINGBR/BE
STEERING (Continued)