2002 DODGE RAM steering

(4) Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound
to the splines of the front drive shaft.
(5) Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor
hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts
through the back side of the knuckle so they extend
out the front face as shown.
(6) Position the hub spacer (Fig. 9) and brake
shield (Fig. 10) on bolts just installed in knuckle.
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a wheel speed
sensor the brake shield must be positioned on the
hub bearing (Fig. 11).
(7) Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and
start the shaft into the rotor hub splines.
NOTE: Position wheel speed sensor wire at the top
of the knuckle if equipped.
(8) Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange
with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread
the bolts into the bearing flange far enough to hold
the assembly in place.
(9) Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/
bearing bolts to 166 N´m (122 ft. labs.
(10) Install the washer and hub nut and tighten to
245 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut.
Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole
in the shaft with the opening in nut.
(12) Install the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle
and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed
sensor wire under the hood.(14) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(15) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(16) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
Fig. 9 Hub Spacer
1 - ROTOR HUB BOLTS
2 - HUB SPACER (POSITION FLAT TO REAR)
3 - APPLY ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND TO SPLINES
Fig. 10 Brake Shield
1 - BRAKE SHIELD
2 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 11 Brake Shield With Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - SHIELD
2 - 18 FRONT - 4WDBR/BE
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

KNUCKLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove hub bearing and axle shaft.
(2) Remove tie-rod or drag link end from the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(3) Remove the ABS sensor wire and bracket from
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud
nut. Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen.
(6) Remove knuckle from axle tube yokes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten lower ball stud nut to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not install cotter pin at
this time.
(3) Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 94
N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(4) Retorque lower ball stud nut to 190±217 N´m
(140±160 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(5) Install the hub bearing and axle shaft.
(6) Install tie-rod or drag link end onto the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(7) Install the ABS sensor wire and bracket to the
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedure.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket (Fig. 12).
(3) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(4) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
UPPER BALL JOINT
REMOVAL - DANA 44 & 60
(1) Position tools as shown to remove upper ball
stud (Fig. 13).
Fig. 12 Upper and Lower Suspension Arm
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - SHOCK ABSORBER
3 - COIL SPRING
4 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
5 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
6 - TRACK BAR
Fig. 13 UPPER BALL JOINT REMOVAL
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C4212-F
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6761
3 - KNUCKLE
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8445-3
BR/BEFRONT - 4WD 2 - 19

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................25
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................26
SPECIAL TOOLS
SUSPENSION-REAR...................27
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................27INSTALLATION.........................27
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
SPRING
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................28
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar (optional)
²Leaf Springs
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
BR/BEREAR 2 - 25

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheels and tires.
(3) Remove brake calipers and rotors. Refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Remove ABS wheel speed sensors, if equipped.
Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(5) Disconnect axle vent hose.
(6) Disconnect vacuum hose and electrical connec-
tor at disconnect housing.
(7) Remove front propeller shaft.
(8) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle
brackets.
(9) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brackets.
(10) Disconnect track bar from the axle bracket.
(11) Disconnect tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckles.
(12) Position suitable lifting device under the axle
assembly.(13) Secure axle to lifting device.
(14) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
(15) Disconnect upper and lower suspension arms
from the axle bracket.
(16) Lower the axle. The coil springs will drop
with the axle.
(17) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the weight of the
vehicle on the suspension, at normal height. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur. Rubber bushings must never
be lubricated.
(1) Support the axle on a suitable lifting device.
3 - 18 FRONT AXLE - 248FBIBR/BE
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)

(2) Secure axle to lifting device.
(3) Position the axle under the vehicle.
(4) Install springs, retainer clip and bolts.
(5) Raise axle and align it with the spring pads.
(6) Position upper and lower suspension arms in
the axle brackets. Install bolts, nuts and align the
suspension alignment cams to the reference marks.
Do not tighten at this time.
(7) Connect track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
(8) Install shock absorber and tighten bolts to 121
N´m (89 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install stabilizer bar link to the axle bracket.
Tighten the nut to 37 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles and tighten the nuts to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install ABS wheel speed sensors, if equipped.
Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(12) Install rotors and brake calipers, refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(13) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(14) Connect vacuum hose and electrical connector
to disconnect housing.
(15) Install front propeller shaft.
(16) Check and add differential lubricant, if neces-
sary. Refer to Lubricant Specifications for lubricant
requirements.
(17) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(18) Remove supports and lower the vehicle.
(19) Tighten upper suspension arm nuts at axle to
121 N´m (89 ft. lbs.). Tighten upper suspension arm
nuts at frame to 84 N´m (62 ft. lbs.).
(20) Tighten lower suspension arm nuts at axle to
84 N´m (62 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower suspension
arm nuts at frame to 119 N´m (88 ft. lbs.).
(21) Tighten track bar bolt at the axle bracket to
176 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(22) Check front wheel alignment.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched sets
only. The identifying numbers for the ring and pinion
gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig. 3). A
plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is etched
into the face of the pinion gear. This number is the
amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth varies
from the standard depth setting of a pinion etched with
a (0). The standard setting from the center line of the
ring gear to the back face of the pinion is 127 mm (5.00
in.). The standard depth provides the best gear tooth
contact pattern. Refer to Backlash and Contact Pattern
in this section for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/slinger. The shims are
placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 PINION GEAR ID NUMBERS
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 4 SHIM LOCATIONS
1 - PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM/SLINGER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 248FBI 3 - 19
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake caliper, rotor and ABS wheel
speed sensor if equipped. Refer to 5 Brakes for pro-
cedures.
(4) Remove the cotter pin and axle hub nut.
(5) Remove hub bearing bolts (Fig. 21) and remove
hub bearing from the steering knuckle.
(6) Remove brake dust shield from knuckle.
(7) Remove axle shaft from the housing. Avoid
damaging the axle shaft oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean axle shaft and apply a thin film of
Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease to the shaft splines,
seal contact surface, hub bore.
(2) Install axle shaft into the housing and differen-
tial side gears. Avoid damaging axle shaft oil seals in
the differential.
(3) Install dust shield and hub bearing on knuckle.
(4) Install hub bearing bolts and tighten to 170
N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install axle washer and nut, tighten nut to 237
N´m (175 ft. lbs.). Align nut to next cotter pin hole
and install new cotter pin.
(6) Install ABS wheel speed sensor, brake rotor
and caliper. Refer to Brakes for proper procedures.
(7) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(8) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
BLOCK, ADAPTER ± C-239-37
BLOCK, ADAPTER ± C-239-62
HOLDER, YOKE - 6719A
PINION DEPTH, SET ± 6730
Fig. 21 HUB AND KNUCKLE
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - HUB BEARING
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 248FBI 3 - 29
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)