2002 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY tire pressure

(9) Drain washer fluid from the reservoir and into
a suitable clean container. This can be done by dis-
connecting the windshield washer hose from the
front (outboard) washer pump and allowing the
washer fluid to drain into a container through a tem-
porary jumper hose connected to the front washer
pump.
(10) Disconnect the rear washer pump hose from
washer pump.
(11) Disconnect the high pressure headlamp
washer pump hose by pressing down firmly on latch
and pulling hose off.
(12) Disconnect the electrical body harness connec-
tors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level
sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the
release position, then, depress the black tab and pull
the connector off the pump or sensor.
(13) Remove the two reservoir mounting screws.
(14) Disconnect the reservoir from the body mount
by raising the reservoir upward slightly and then
down so that the reservoir filler neck and front
washer hose pull through the opening in the front
fender side shield.
(15) Remove pump from reservoir by pulling pump
up and away from reservoir cavity and out of mount-
ing grommet. Do not damage reservoir/pump sealing
surface or puncture reservoir during removal.
(16) Remove pump grommet and discard.
INSTALLATION
(1) Use new grommet when installing a new pump
assembly.
(2) Assure pump upper retention tab is pressed
into reservoir slot and assure the pump is aligned to
and fully seated in the reservoir cavity.
(3) Push filler neck and front washer hose through
the opening in the front fender side shield. Connect
the reservoir to the body mount by lowering the res-
ervoir down.
(4) Install the two reservoir mounting screws.
Torque screws to 8.5 - 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the electrical body harness connectors
to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sen-
sor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the closed
or locked position.
(6) Connect front and rear washer pump hoses and
assure that they are properly routed to prevent
pinching and possible inoperative washers.
(7) Connect the high pressure headlamp washer
hose by firmly pushing hose onto inlet until a snap is
heard.
(8) Connect the left right front wheelhouse splash
shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLA-
TION).(9) Install the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(10) lower vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
(11) Install the filler tube screw. Torque screw to
8.5 - 11.3 N´m (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
(12) Connect the washer hose to the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(13) Connect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille.
(14) Install the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Connect the battery negative cable.
(16) Verify vehicle and system operation.
REAR WASHER PUMP MOTOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the engine fresh air housing inside the
engine compartment (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line con-
nector forward of the cowl grille so that the in-line
connector remains with the washer hose from the
fresh air plenum.
(4) Disconnect the washer hose from the hose clip
located on the front fender side shield.
(5) Remove the filler tube screw.
(6) Hoist and support vehicle on hoist or jack
stands.
(7) Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(8) Disconnect the left right front wheelhouse
splash shield and move aside (Refer to 23 - BODY/
EXTERIOR/WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD -
REMOVAL).
(9) Drain washer fluid from the reservoir and into
a suitable clean container. This can be done by dis-
connecting the windshield washer hose from the
front (outboard) washer pump and allowing the
washer fluid to drain into a container through a tem-
porary jumper hose connected to the front washer
pump.
(10) Disconnect the electrical body harness connec-
tors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level
sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the
release position, then, depress the black tab and pull
the connector off the pump or sensor.
(11) Remove the two reservoir mounting screws.
8R - 14 WIPERS/WASHERSRS
HEADLAMP WASHER PUMP MOTOR - EXPORT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 8 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 3)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 3)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING PLASTIGAGE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The follow-
ing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 4). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.(3) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the metric
scale provided on the package. Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Compare clearance measurements to specs found in
engine specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECI-
FICATIONS).Plastigage generally is accompa-
nied by two scales. One scale is in inches, the
other is a metric scale.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances.
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Perform fuel pressure release procedure (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Remove air cleaner housing and inlet tube.
(4) Disconnect the fuel line from fuel rail. (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL LINES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(5) Disconnect all vacuum hoses.
(6) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(7) Remove radiator fans. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove radiator upper and lower hoses.
Fig. 3 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 4 Plastigage Placed in Lower ShellÐTypical
1 - PLASTIGAGE
9 - 12 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 82 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING PLASTIGAGE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The follow-
ing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 3). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.(3) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the metric
scale provided on the package. Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Compare clearance measurements to specs found in
engine specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECI-
FICATIONS).Plastigage generally is accompa-
nied by two scales. One scale is in inches, the
other is a metric scale.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
Fig. 3 Plastigage Placed in Lower ShellÐTypical
1 - PLASTIGAGE
9 - 84 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 2.5L TURBO DIESEL ENGINE
(1) Reassembly engine and transmission assembly
and install on engine cradle.
(2) Position engine and cradle assembly under
vehicle.
(3) Slowly lower the vehicle down over the engine
and cradle assembly.
(4) Install right engine mount bolts. Torque to
54N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
(5) Install left engine mount through bolt. Torque
to 75N´m (55 ft. lbs.)
(6) Raise vehicle and engine from engine cradle.
(7) Attach front engine mount bracket to lower
radiator support. Torque to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
(8) Connect cabin heater coolant hose.
(9) Connect exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
downpipe flange. Torque to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
(10) Connect reverse lamp electrical connector at
transmission.
(11) Connect both shifter cables (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL/GEAR
SHIFT CABLE - INSTALLATION).
(12) Connect the clutch slave cylinder quick dis-
connect connector (RHD only)(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
SLAVE CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install engine harness into bracket on trans-
mission.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Connect fuel supply and return lines.
(16) Connect A/C lines to A/C compressor. Torque
to 23N´m (17 ft. lbs.)
(17) Route engine wiring harnes to proper location.
(18) Connect engine harness ground cables to
engine block
(19) Connect starter solenoid electrical connector
and battery feed wire to starter. Torque to 10N´m (90
in. lbs.)
(20) Connect A/C compressor, injection pump, glow
plugs, and coolant temperature sensor electrical con-
nectors.
(21) Connect generator electrical connector. Torque
to 9N´m (75 in. lbs.)
(22) Connect the fuel injector, fuel pressure sensor,
boost pressure/intake air temp sensor, cam sensor,
and egr solenoid electrical connectors (Fig. 8).
(23) Connect egr solenoid vacuum supply line to
brake boost vacuum supply line.(24) Connect brake booster vacuum supply line.
(25) Connect heater core return hose to coolant
pipe.
(26) Connect lower radiator hose to engine (Fig. 7).
(27) Install charger air cooler inlet hose (Fig. 6).
(28) Install charge air cooler outlet hose (Fig. 6).
(29) Connect upper radiator hose to engine (Fig.
7).
(30) Install battery shield.
(31) Install coolant reserve pressure container
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOV-
ERY PRESS CONTAINER - INSTALLATION).
(32) Install power steering reservoir and bracket
(Fig. 4).
(33) Raise vehicle
(34) Connect oil pressure sensor, oil temperature
sensor, engine speed sensor, and vehicle speed sensor
electrical connector (Fig. 9).
(35) Install suspension cradle in vehicle (Refer to
13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/ENGINE CRA-
DLE CROSSMEMBER - INSTALLATION).
(36) Install both axle shaft assemblies (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT -
INSTALLATION).
(37) Connect the power steering supply, pressure,
and return lines to power steering pump (Fig. 4).
(38) Install the power steering line brackets on oil
pan (Fig. 4).
(39) Install lower splash shield and side panels.
(40) Install both front wheel and tire assemblies.
(41) Lower vehicle.
(42) Install air cleaner housing, MAF sensor, and
air intake tube assembly (Fig. 3).
(43) Refill transmission to proper level (Refer to 21
- TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL/FLUID -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(44) Refill engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(45) Recharge A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGER-
ANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
(46) Install engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION) (Fig. 2).
(47) Connect negative battery cable.
INSTALLATION - ENGINE COVER
(1) Install engine cover on engine.
(2) Install the engine cover mounting bolts (Fig.
10).
RGENGINE9a-7
ENGINE 2.5L TURBO DIESEL (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(4) Install the 3 screws at the filler door.
(5) Install the canister from filler tube (Fig. 21).
(6) Install the splash shield.
(7) Install the left rear tire.
(8) lower vehicle.
(9) Connect the negative battery cable.
INLET FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove fuel pump module. Refer to Fuel Pump
Module Removal in this section.
(2) Using a thin straight blade screwdriver, pry
back the locking tabs on fuel pump reservoir and
remove the strainer (Fig. 22).
(3) Remove strainer O-ring from the fuel pump
reservoir body.
(4) Remove any contaminants in the fuel tank by
washing the inside of the fuel tank.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the strainer O-ring with clean engine
oil.
(2) Insert strainer O-ring into outlet of strainer so
that it sits evenly on the step inside the outlet.
(3) Push strainer onto the inlet of the fuel pump
reservoir body. Make sure the locking tabs on the
reservoir body lock over the locking tangs on the
strainer.
(4) Install fuel pump module. Refer to Fuel Pump
Module Installation in this section.
QUICK CONNECT FITTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - QUICK-CONNECT
FITTINGS
REMOVAL
When disconnecting a quick-connect fitting, the
retainer will remain on the fuel tube nipple.
WARNING: RELEASE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
BEFORE DISCONNECTING A QUICK-CONNECT FIT-
TINGS. REFER TO THE FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE
PROCEDURE.
(1) Perform Fuel Pressure Release Procedure.
Refer to the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure in this
section.
(2) Disconnect negative cable from battery or aux-
iliary jumper terminal.
(3) Squeeze retainer tabs together and pull fuel
tube/quick-connect fitting assembly off of fuel tube
nipple. The retainer will remain on fuel tube.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Never install a quick-connect fitting with-
out the retainer being either on the fuel tube or
already in the quick-connect fitting. In either case,
ensure the retainer locks securely into the quick-
connect fitting by firmly pulling on fuel tube and fit-
ting to ensure it is secured.
(1) Using a clean lint free cloth, clean the fuel tube
nipple and retainer.
(2) Prior to connecting the fitting to the fuel tube,
coat the fuel tube nipple with clean engine oil.
Fig. 21 FUEL TUBE VENT CANISTER
Fig. 22 Inlet
1 - TABS
2 - INLET STRAINER
RSFUEL DELIVERY14-13
FUEL TANK FILLER TUBE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Low power steering fluid level. 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
proper level and check for leaks.
4. Loose clamp on fluid supply hose. 4. Tighten or replace hose clamp.
SQUEAK OR RUBBING
SOUND1. Steering column shroud rubbing. 1. Realign shrouds as necessary.
2. Steering column shaft rubbing. 2. Move or realign item rubbing shaft.
3. Clockspring noisy. 3. Remove clockspring. Reinstall wheel.
If noise is gone, replace clockspring.
4. Seal lubrication inadequate. 4. Lube seal (if external).
5. Steering gear internally noisy. 5. Replace steering gear (if no other
cause can be found).
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING NOISE.1. Incorrect tire or wheel size. 1. Replace incorrect size tire or wheel
with size used as original equipment.
2. Interference between steering
gear and other vehicle components.2. Check for bent or misaligned
components and correct as necessary.
3. Steering gear internal stops worn
excessively allowing tires to be
steered excessively far.3. Replace steering gear.
NOTE: * There is some noise in all power steering
systems. One of the most common is a hissing
sound evident when turning the steering wheel
when at a standstill or when parking and the steer-
ing wheel is at the end of its travel. Hiss is a very
high frequency noise similar to that experienced
while slowly closing a water tap. The noise is
present in every valve and results when high veloc-
ity fluid passes valve orifice edges. There is no
relationship between this noise and the perfor-
mance of the steering system.
NOTE: ** A light clunk may be felt or heard during
steering wheel reversal while vehicle is stationary.This results from internal steering gear rack move-
ment at the bushings and in no way affects the per-
formance of the steering system. This movement
may be felt in the steering components during
steering wheel reversal.
NOTE: *** Power steering pump growl/moan/groan
results from the development of high pressure fluid
flow. Normally this noise level should not be high
enough to be objectionable.
STEERING WHEEL FEEL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
STEERING WHEEL/
COLUMN CLICKING,
CLUNKING OR RATTLING.1. Loose steering coupling pinch
bolt.1. Replace pinch bolt and torque to
specifications.
2. Steering column bearings. 2. Replace steering column.
3. Excessive intermediate shaft
coupling free-play.3. Replace intermediate shaft.
STEERING WHEEL HAS
FORE AND AFT
LOOSENESS.1. Steering wheel retaining nut not
properly tightened and torqued.1. Tighten the steering wheel retaining nut
to its specified torque.
RSSTEERING19-5
STEERING (Continued)
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