2002 CHRYSLER CARAVAN water pump

ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM
Establish what driving condition caused the cooling
system complaint. The problem may be caused by an
abnormal load on the system such as the following:
prolonged idle, very high ambient temperature, slight
tail wind at idle, slow traffic speed, traffic jam, high
speed, steep grade.
DRIVING TECHNIQUES
To avoid overheating the cooling system:
(1) Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
(2) Do not increase engine speed for more air flow
and coolant flow because the electric motor fan sys-
tems are not responsive to engine RPM. The added
cooling from higher coolant flow rate is more than
offset by increased heat rejection (engine heat added
to coolant).
TRAILER TOWING
Consult the owner's manual under Trailer Towing
and do not exceed specified limits.
VISUAL INSPECTION
If the cooling system problem is not caused by a
driving condition, perform a visual inspection to
determine if there was a recent service or accident
repair, including the following:
²Loose/damaged water pump drive belt
²Incorrect cooling system refilling (trapped air or
low level)
²Brakes possibly dragging
²Damaged hoses
²Loose/damaged hose clamps
²Damaged/incorrect engine thermostat
²Damaged cooling fan motor, fan blade and fan
shroud
²Damaged head gasket
²Damaged water pump
²Damaged radiator
²Damaged coolant recovery system
²Damaged heater core
²Open/shorted electrical circuits
If the visual inspection reveals none of the above
as cause for a cooling system complaint, refer to the
following diagnostic charts.
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK.1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective, or was not
properly seated.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seal. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Replace cap as
necessary.
2. Incorrect cap was installed. 2. Replace cap as necessary.
3. Incorrect coolant mixture. 3. Check concentration level of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as required.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE IS
READING HIGH OR HOT.1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
RSENGINE7-15
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Obstructions in heater hose
fitting at engine or at heater core.3. Remove heater hoses at both
ends and check for obstructions.
Repair as necessary.
4. Heater hose kinked. 4. Locate kinked area and repair as
necessary.
5. Water pump is not pumping
coolant to heater core.5. When the engine is fully warmed
up, both heater hoses should be hot
to the touch. If only one of the
hoses is hot, the water pump may
not be operating correctly. Replace
components as necessary.
6. Air trapped in heater core. 6. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -
COOLING SYSTEM DEAERATION)
HEAT ODOR 1. Various heat shields are used at
certain driveline components. One
or more of these shields may be
missing.1. Locate missing shields and
replace or repair as necessary.
2. Temperature gauge reading
above the normal range.2. Refer to Gauge Is Reading High
in Temperature Gauge Indicatication
Diagnosis Chart.
3. Radiator fan operating
incorrectly.3. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - OPERATION)
Repair as necessary.
4. Undercoating been applied to an
unnecessary component.4. Clean undercoating as necessary.
5. Engine may be running rich,
causing the catalytic converter to
overheat5. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information) Repair as necessary.
POOR DRIVEABILITY
(THERMOSTAT POSSIBLY STUCK
OPEN). GAUGE MAY BE READING
LOW.1. The engine thermostat must be
operating correctly for proper
driveability, clean vehicle emissions,
and the prevention of sludge
buildup in the engine oil. Check for
a diagnostic trouble code.1. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information) Replace thermostat, if
necessary.
STEAM IS COMING FROM FRONT
OF VEHICLE NEAR GRILL AREA
WHEN WEATHER IS WET,
ENGINE WARMED UP AND
RUNNING WITH VEHICLE
STATIONARY, OR JUST SHUT
OFF. TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS
NORMAL.1. During wet weather, moisture
(snow, ice, rain, or condensation)
on the radiator will evaporate when
the thermostat opens. The
thermostat opening allows heated
coolant into the radiator. When the
moisture contacts the hot radiator,
steam may be emitted. This usually
occurs in cold weather with no fan
or air flow to blow it away.1. Occasional steam emitting from
this area is normal. No repair is
necessary.
RSENGINE7-17
ENGINE (Continued)
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(6) Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT
DESCRIPTION
The engine cooling thermostats are a wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is
mounted in a housing on the coolant outlet of the
engine (Fig. 8) or (Fig. 10).
OPERATION
The engine cooling thermostat is a wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is
designed to provide the fastest warm up possible by
preventing leakage through it and to guarantee a
minimum engine operating temperature of 88 to
93ÉC (192 to 199ÉF). The thermostat also will auto-
matically reach wide open so it will not restrict flow
to the radiator as temperature of the coolant rises in
hot weather to around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this
temperature the coolant temperature is controlled by
the radiator, fan, and ambient temperature, not the
thermostat.
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolantreaches a predetermined temperature, the wax
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled cham-
ber (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature the wax pellet
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermo-
stat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermo-
stat with a screwdriver.
Thermostat diagnostics is included in powertrain
control module's (PCM) programing for on-board
diagnosis. The malfunction indicator light (MIL) will
illuminate and a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will
be set when an ªopen too soonº condition occurs. Do
not change a thermostat for lack of heater perfor-
mance or temperature gauge position, unless a DTC
is present. For other probable causes, (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Thermostat failing shut is the normal long term
mode of failure, and normally, only on high mileage
vehicles. The temperature gauge will indicate this
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 2.4L
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system below the thermostat
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove radiator upper hose from the coolant
outlet housing (Fig. 7).
(3) Remove coolant outlet housing bolts and hous-
ing (Fig. 8).
(4) Remove thermostat. Discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on
the coolant outlet connector surface. Position thermo-
stat with air bleed at the 12 o'clock position in ther-
mostat housing (Fig. 8).
(2) Position the coolant outlet connector and gas-
ket over the thermostat, making sure thermostat is
seated in the thermostat housing.
(3) Position outlet connector to thermostat housing
and install bolts (Fig. 8). Tighten bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
Fig. 6 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
1 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2 - CONNECTOR - ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR
3 - FITTING - HEATER SUPPLY
RSENGINE7-23
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP TESTING
Dip the pressure cap in water. Clean any deposits
off the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
the Pressure Cap Test Adaptor that is included with
the Cooling System Tester 7700 (Fig. 18). Working
the plunger, bring the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the pressure cap.
CAUTION: The Cooling System Tester Tool is very
sensitive to small air leaks that will not cause cool-
ing system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn tool
upside down and recheck pressure cap to confirm
that cap is bad.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned
on Cooling System Tester (Fig. 18), but will not hold
pressure or vacuum when positioned on the filler
neck. Inspect the filler neck and cap top gasket for
irregularities that may prevent the cap from sealing
properly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
TO FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 19). Attach the
Radiator Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and
pump air into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gas-ket should relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold
pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ªDO NOT OPEN
HOTº ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM
IS HOT OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust coolant freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new coolant.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN
PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE COUNTERCLOCK-
WISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE)
BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST
STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
Fig. 18 Testing Cooling System Pressure Cap
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 19 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - RADIATOR
8 - FILLER NECK
7 - 28 ENGINERS
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)
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WATER PUMP - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump has a cast aluminum body and
housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water
pump bolts directly to the block (Fig. 23). The cylin-
der block to water pump seal is provided by a rubber
O-ring. The water pump is driven by the engine tim-
ing belt.
OPERATION
The water pump is the heart of the cooling system.
The coolant is pumped through the engine block, cyl-
inder head, heater core, and radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Remove the right inner splash shield.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(5) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Support engine from the bottom and remove
right engine mount. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT - REMOVAL).(7) Remove right engine mount bracket (Fig. 24).
(8) Remove the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- REMOVAL).
(9) Remove timing belt idler pulley.
(10) Hold camshaft sprocket with Special tool
C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1 while removing bolt.
Remove both cam sprockets.
(11) Remove the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COV-
ER(S) - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the generator and bracket (Fig. 24).
(13) Remove water pump to engine attaching
screws (Fig. 25).
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
INSPECTION
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
wet coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the
engine block.
(5) Impeller loose or damaged.
(6) Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring locating groove (Fig. 26).
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in
water pump groove before tightening screws. An
improperly located O-ring may be damaged and
cause a coolant leak.
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten
screws to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 25). Pressurize
cooling system to 103.4 Kpa (15 psi) with pressure
tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring
for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(4) Install the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).
(5) Install camshaft sprockets and torque bolts to
101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) while holding camshaft sprocket
with Special tool C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1.
(6) Install timing belt idler pulley and torque
mounting bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 23 Water Pump
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
7 - 32 ENGINERS
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Fig. 24 Generator Bracket
1 - BRACKET - ENGINE MOUNT 5 - BOLT
2 - BOLT 6 - TENSIONER - DRIVE BELT
3 - GENERATOR 7 - BOLT
4 - BOLT 8 - BOLT
Fig. 25 Water Pump - 2.4L
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
Fig. 26 Water Pump Body
1 - IMPELLER
2 - WATER PUMP BODY
3 - O-RING LOCATING GROOVE
RSENGINE7-33
WATER PUMP - 2.4L (Continued)
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(7) Install the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the generator mount bracket. (Fig. 24)
(9) Install the generator.
(10) Install right engine mount bracket and engine
mount (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/
RIGHT MOUNT - INSTALLATION).
(11) Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(12) Install the accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Lower vehicle and connect battery cable.
WATER PUMP - 3.3/3.8L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump has a die-cast aluminum body
and a plastic impeller. It bolts directly to the timing
chain case cover, using a rubber seal for sealing (Fig.
27). It is driven by the accessory drive belt.
OPERATION
The water pump is the heart of the cooling system.
The coolant is pumped through the engine block, cyl-
inder head, heater core, and radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove the accessory drive belt shield.
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(4) Remove water pump pulley bolts (Fig. 27).
NOTE: To remove the water pump pulley, it MUST
first be positioned between water pump housing
and drive hub. The pulley can then be removed with
the water pump assembly.
(5) Rotate pulley until openings in pulley align
with water pump drive hub spokes (Fig. 28). Move
pulley inward between pump housing and hub (Fig.
28).
(6) Position pulley to allow access to water pump
mounting bolts. Remove water pump mounting bolts
(Fig. 29).
(7) Remove water pump with the pulley loosely
positioned between hub and the pump body.
(8) Remove and discard the seal.
Fig. 27 Water Pump - 3.3/3.8L Engine
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - PULLEY - WATER PUMP
3 - BOLT - PULLEY
4 - BOLT - WATER PUMP
5 - SEAL - WATER PUMP
Fig. 28 Water Pump Pulley Positioning
1 - HUB - WATER PUMP
2 - PULLEY - WATER PUMP
7 - 34 ENGINERS
WATER PUMP - 2.4L (Continued)
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(9) Clean seal groove and sealing surfaces on
pump and timing chain case cover. Take care not to
scratch or gouge sealing surfaces.
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
INSPECTION
Replace the water pump if it has any of the follow-
ing defects.
(1) Damage or cracks on the pump body.
(2) Coolant leaks; this will be evident by a wet
stream of coolant running down the pump body and
components below. A thin stain below the weep hole
reservoir slot (Fig. 30) is considered normal opera-
tion.
(3) Impeller rubs inside of chain case cover.
(4) Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.
NOTE: A weepage stain that is black, brown, or grey
is considered normal, if it is dry. If the weep
appears wet; pressure test the cooling system at
15±18 psi and observe the weep area. If weep area
remains unchanged, do not replace the water pump
for this condition. Replace the water pump, if a
steady flow of engine coolant is evident from the
weep hole/reservoir slot (Fig. 30) (shaft seal failure).
Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before
replacing water pump.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new seal into water pump housing
groove (Fig. 31).NOTE: The water pump pulley MUST be positioned
loosely between the pump housing and drive hub
BEFORE water pump installation.
(2) Position the water pump pulley loosely between
pump housing and drive hub (Fig. 28).
(3) Install water pump and pulley to the timing
chain case cover (Fig. 27). Tighten water pump bolts
to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Position pulley on water pump hub. Install
bolts and tighten to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 27).
Fig. 29 Water Pump Bolts - 3.3/3.8L Engine (Shown
Without Pulley)
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - BOLTS
Fig. 30 Water Pump Inspection - 3.3/3.8L Engine
Fig. 31 Water Pump Seal
1 - WATER PUMP HOUSING
2 - SEAL
3 - IMPELLER
RSENGINE7-35
WATER PUMP - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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