CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play. 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on
flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round
or worn.7. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.8. Tighten to correct torque.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sensor/switch. 2. Replace oil pressure sensor/
switch.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pressure sensor/switch
and main bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean,
or replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new
tube or clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked.9. Install new oil pump.
10. Excessive bearing clearance. 10. Measure bearings for correct
clearance.
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets.1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the
part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or
threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-81
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 82 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-83
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Perform fuel pressure release procedure (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(3) Remove air cleaner and hoses.
(4) Disconnect the fuel line from fuel rail (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK
CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Remove the wiper module (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MODULE -
REMOVAL).
(6) Block off heater hoses to the rear heater sys-
tem using pinch-off pliers (if equipped).
(7) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(9) Remove the radiator upper support crossmem-
ber (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE OPEN-
ING REINFORCEMENT - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove the radiator fans (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(11) Disconnect the throttle cables from the throt-
tle body.
(12) Disconnect the MAP, IAC, and TPS electrical
connectors.
(13) Disconnect the EGR transducer electrical con-
nector (if equipped).
(14) Disconnect the vacuum hoses from throttle
body.
(15) Disconnect the brake booster and speed con-
trol vacuum hoses.
(16) Disengage wire harness clip from the right
side engine mount.
(17) Remove the power steering reservoir from
mounting position and set aside.Do notdisconnect
hose.
(18) Disconnect ground strap from rear of cylinder
head.
(19) Disconnect engine coolant temperature (ECT)
sensor and ignition coil electrical connectors.
(20) Disconnect the fuel injector electrical harness
connector and disengage clip from support bracket.
(21) Disconnect camshaft and crankshaft position
sensor electrical connectors.
(22) Evacuate air conditioning system. Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING.
(23) Disconnect A/C compressor electrical connec-
tor.(24) Disconnect the A/C lines from compressor.
Cover and seal all openings of hoses and compressor.
(25) Remove the radiator upper hose.
(26) Disengage electrical harness clip at transaxle
dipstick tube.
(27) Remove transaxle dipstick tube. Seal opening
using a suitable plug.
NOTE: When the transaxle cooler lines are removed
from the rolled-groove type fittings at the transaxle,
damage to the inner wall of the hose will occur. To
prevent prevent potential leakage, the cooler hoses
must be cut off flush at the transaxle fitting, and a
service cooler hose splice kit must be installed
upon reassembly.
(28) Using a blade or suitable hose cutter, cut
transaxle oil cooler lines off flush with fittings. Plug
cooler lines and fittings to prevent debris from enter-
ing transaxle or cooler circuit. A service splice kit will
be installed upon reassembly.
(29) Disconnect transaxle shift linkage and electri-
cal connectors.
(30) Raise vehicle on hoist and drain the engine
oil.
(31) Remove the axle shafts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(32) Remove crossmember cradle plate (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6 Crossmember Cradle Plate
1 - CRADLE PLATE
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-87
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(33)AWD equipped:Remove the power transfer
unit (PTU) (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/POWER TRANSFER UNIT - REMOVAL).
(34) Disconnect exhaust pipe from the manifold
(Fig. 7).
(35) Remove front engine mount and bracket as an
assembly.
(36) Remove the engine rear mount bracket.
(37) Remove the engine to transaxle struts (Fig. 8).
(38) Remove transaxle case cover (Fig. 8).
(39) Remove flex plate to torque converter bolts.
Mark torque converter to flex plate for orientation for
reassembly.
(40) Remove the power steering pressure hose sup-
port clip attaching bolt.
(41) Disconnect the knock sensor electrical connec-
tor (3.8L only).(42) Disconnect the engine block heater electrical
connector (if equipped).
(43) Remove the accessory belt splash shield.
(44) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(45) Disconnect the radiator lower hose.
(46) Remove air conditioning compressor from
engine.
(47) Remove the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
Fig. 7 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - FLAG NUT
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
4 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
Fig. 8 POWERTRAIN SUPPORTS AND DUST COVER
1 - BRACKET - ENGINE REAR MOUNT
2 - BOLT - TRANSAXLE CASE COVER
3 - STRUT - TRANSAXLE TO ENGINE HORIZONTAL
4 - BOLT - HORIZONTAL STRUT
5 - BOLT - STRUT TO TRANSAXLE
6 - COVER - TRANSAXLE CASE LOWER
7 - STRUT - TRANSAXLE TO ENGINE
8 - BOLT - STRUT TO ENGINE
9 - BOLT - ENGINE REAR MOUNT BRACKET
9 - 88 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(11) Repeat procedure for each cylinder requiring
valve spring removal.
INSPECTION
Whenever valves have been removed for inspection,
reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should
be tested (Fig. 39).As an example;the compression
length of a spring to be tested is 38.00 mm (1.496
in.). Turn the table of Tool C-647 until surface is in
line with the 38.00 mm (1.496 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Placespring over stud on the table and lift compressing
lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until
ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this
instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give
the spring load at test length. Fractional measure-
ments are indicated on the table for finer adjust-
ments. Refer to Engine Specifications to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). Replace any springs
that do not meet specifications.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD OFF
(1) If removed, install a new valve stem seal (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE STEM
SEALS - INSTALLATION).
(2) Position valve spring and retainer on spring
seat.
(3) Using Special Tool C-3422-D with 8464 Adapter
(Fig. 37), compress the spring only enough to install
the valve retainer locks. Install valve retainer locks.
(4) Slowly release the spring tension. Ensure the
retainer locks are seated properly.
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD ON
(1) The intake valve stem seals should be pushed
firmly and squarely over the valve guide using the
valve stem as guide.Do Not Forceseal against top
of guide. When installing the valve retainer locks,
compress the springonly enoughto install the
locks.
CAUTION: Do not pinch seal between retainer and
top of valve guide.
Fig. 37 VALVE SPRING - REMOVE/INSTALL
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3422-D SPRING COMPRESSOR
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8464 ADAPTER
Fig. 38 VALVE SPRING - REMOVE/INSTALL (HEAD
ON)
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8453
2 - BOLTS - SPECIAL TOOL ATTACHING
3 - AIR SUPPLY HOSE ADAPTER
Fig. 39 TESTING VALVE SPRING
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 109
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Install flex plate bolts (Fig. 70). Tighten bolts
to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transaxle (Refer to 21 - TRANSMIS-
SION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 41TE - INSTAL-
LATION).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic lifters are a roller type design and are
positioned in the cylinder block. The lifters are aligned
and retained by a yoke and a retainer (Fig. 71).
Lifter alignment is maintained by machined flats
on lifter body. Lifters are fitted in pairs into six
aligning yokes. The aligning yokes are secured by a
yoke retainer (Fig. 71).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
LIFTERS
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS DIAGNOSIS - PRELIMINARY
STEP
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect lifter noise, check the engine oil pressure. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Check engine oil level. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the MAX mark on dipstick, or
below the MIN mark. Either of these two conditions
could cause noisy lifters.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the MAX mark on dipstick, it is
possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil
while engine is running and create foaming. Foam in
oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic lifters by the oil
pump causing them to become soft and allow valves
to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which
when fed to the lifters it causes them to become soft
and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake
side of pump, through which air can be drawn, will
create the same lifter noise. Check the lubrication
system from the intake strainer to the oil pump
cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When
lifter noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent
or constant, and usually more than one lifter will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
the engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all
of the air inside of the lifters to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE
To determine source of valve train noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and
listen for source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy lifters. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
Valve lifter noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger which will
necessitate replacing the lifter, or by the plunger par-
tially sticking in the lifter body cylinder. A heavy
click is caused either by a lifter check valve not seat-
ing, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between
Fig. 71 Hydraulic Lifters
1 - YOKE RETAINER
2 - BOLT - YOKE RETAINER
3 - ALIGNING YOKE
4 - HYDRAULIC LIFTER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 125
FLEX PLATE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
(3) Clean oil screen and pick-up tube in clean sol-
vent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads and repair as necessary.
Install a new drain plug gasket. Tighten to 27 N´m
(20 ft. lbs.).
(2) Inspect oil pan mounting flange for bends or
distortion. Straighten flange if necessary.
(3) Inspect condition of oil screen and pick-up tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean sealing surfaces and apply a 1/8 inch
bead of MopartEngine RTV GEN II at the parting
line of the chain case cover and the rear seal retainer
(Fig. 108).
(2) Position a new pan gasket on oil pan (Fig. 107).
(3) Install oil pan and tighten fasteners to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 107).
(4) Install cover to transaxle case (Fig. 106).
(5) Install the strut bolt to transaxle housing (Fig.
106). Tighten all bending brace bolts.
(6) Install the drive belt splash shield.
(7) Lower vehicle and install oil dipstick.(8) Connect negative cable to battery.
(9) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8 in.) hole in the center of
the retainer cap (Fig. 109). Insert a self-threading
sheet metal screw into the cap.
(3) Using suitable pliers, remove cap and discard.
(4) Remove spring and relief valve (Fig. 109).
Fig. 107 OIL PAN
1 - GASKET
2 - BOLT
3 - OIL PAN
4 - NUT
Fig. 108 Oil Pan Sealing
1 - SEALER LOCATIONS
Fig. 109 Oil Pressure Relief Valve
1 - RELIEF VALVE
2 - SPRING
3 - RETAINER CAP
9 - 142 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
OIL PAN (Continued)
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