2002 CHEVROLET AVALANCHE tires

4-43 Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires
and the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You'll have a lot less traction or ªgripº and will need
to be very careful.
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32
F; 0
C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
If you have traction assist, keep the system on. It will
improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a
slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off
if you ever need to. You should turn the system off if
your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow.
See ªRocking Your Vehicleº in the Index. Even though
your vehicle has a traction system, you'll want to slow
down and adjust your driving to the road conditions.
See ªTraction Assist Systemº in the Index.
If you don't have a traction system, accelerate gently.
Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate
too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.

4-51
Loading Your Vehicle
The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of
the driver's door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document
in the cab.
The label shows the size of your original tires and the
inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight
capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR
(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes
the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads
on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help
you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally
on both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the
GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
The Certification/Tire label also contains information
about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See ªFront
Axle Reserve Capacityº later in this section.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread
it out.CAUTION:
In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things
carried in the bed of your truck could shift
forward and come into the passenger area,
injuring you and others. If you put things in
the bed of your truck, you should make sure
they are properly secured.

4-59 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you'll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.

Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh 5, 000 lbs. (2 268 kg) or less. You should
always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh
more than 5, 000 lbs. (2 268 kg). You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.

Don't tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don't drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don't make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.

You should tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to
shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary,
a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts
too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly
conditions). See ªTow/Haul Modeº in the Index.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer,

the weight of the trailer tongue

and the weight on your vehicle's tires.

4-64 Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total or gross
weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any
cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be
riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you
must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See ªLoading
Your Vehicleº in the Index for more information about
your vehicle's maximum load capacity.
If you're using a weight-carrying or a
weight
-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A)
should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum
allowable tongue weight for your vehicle.
After you've loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they aren't, you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle's Tires
Be sure your vehicle's tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You'll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver's door or
see ªTire Loadingº in the Index. Then be sure you
don't go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including
the weight of the trailer tongue.

4-66 Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must
be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to
the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly
as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to
be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check
your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.

5-20
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are
a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. If you have a four
-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear
-- not in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the engine.
5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire on the other side of the vehicle, at
the opposite end.

5-37
Spare Tire
Your vehicle, when new, had a fully inflated spare tire.
A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation
pressure regularly. See ªInflation
-Tire Pressureº and
ªLoading Your Vehicleº in the Index for information
regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle.
For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare
tire, see ªChanging a Flat Tireº in the Index.
After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you
should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare
is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire
repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed
back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be
available in case you need it again.
If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your
vehicle's original road tires and wheels in size and type,
do not include the spare in the tire rotation.
If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don't want to spin
your wheels too fast. The method known as ªrockingº
can help you get out when you're stuck, but you must
use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you're
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible.
Don't spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h)
as shown on the speedometer.
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see ªTire Chainsº in the Index.

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
-6 Filling Your Tank
6
-8 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-12 Engine Oil
6
-18 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-20 Passenger Compartment Air Filter
6
-21 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-24 Rear Axle
6
-25 Four-Wheel Drive
6
-27 Engine Coolant
6
-30 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
6
-30 Power Steering Fluid
6
-32 Windshield Washer Fluid6
-33 Brakes
6
-37 Battery
6
-38 Bulb Replacement
6
-43 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-44 Tires
6
-53 Appearance Care
6
-53 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-57 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-61 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-62 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-63 Electrical System
6
-71 Replacement Bulbs
6
-72 Capacities and Specifications
6
-73 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts