4-28
If the water isn't too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you'll never be able to start your
engine. When you go through water, remember that
when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown.
If it's only shallow water, it can still wash away
the ground from under your tires, and you could
lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don't drive
through rushing water.
See ªDriving Through Waterº in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off
-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
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4-30
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching
headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even
several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark.
When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver
who doesn't lower the high beams, or a vehicle with
misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring
directly into the approaching headlamps.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle
clean
-- inside and out. Glare at night is made much
worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass
can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes
lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would,
making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a
roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your
eyes moving; that way, it's easier to pick out dimly
lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be
checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes
be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night
blindness
-- the inability to see in dim light -- and
aren't even aware of it.
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet
road, you can't stop, accelerate or turn as well because
your tire
-to-road traction isn't as good as on dry roads.
And, if your tires don't have much tread left, you'll get
even less traction. It's always wise to go slower and
be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving.
The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes
are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
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4-31
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain
can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals,
pavement markings, the edge of the road and even
people walking.
It's wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape
and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer
fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they
show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield,
or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems, too.
The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles.
But if you can't, try to slow down before you hit them.
CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won't work
as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to
one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or
a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until
your brakes work normally.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you're
going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
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4-49
Tow/Haul Mode (V6 Engine, Automatic
Transmission Equipped Models) (If Equipped)
The tow/haul mode is a feature that assists when pulling
a heavy trailer. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to
do the following:
Reduce the frequency of shifts when pulling a
heavy trailer,
provide the same shift feel when pulling a heavy
trailer as when the vehicle is unloaded, and
reduce the need to change throttle position when
pulling a heavy trailer.
This feature is turned on or off by pressing a button
on the floor console or the shift knob. When the feature
is on, a light located on the instrument panel cluster
will illuminate to indicate that the tow/haul mode has
been selected.
See ªTow/haul Mode Lightº in the Index. The tow/haul
mode is automatically turned off each time the vehicle
is started.The tow/haul mode is most effective when the vehicle
and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the maximum
trailer weight rating for the vehicle. See ªGross Vehicle
Weight Ratingº and ªTrailer Weightº in the Index.
The tow/haul mode for hauling a heavy trailer is most
useful under the following conditions:
When driving through hilly terrain at speeds
below 55 mph (88 km/h),
when driving in low speed or stop and go traffic
below 55 mph (88 km/h), and
when driving in parking lots.
Use the tow/haul mode instead of the previous
recommendation to shift to THIRD (3) gear to improve
fuel economy at highway speeds and shift performance
at lower speeds. Operating in the tow/haul mode when
not pulling a heavy trailer will not cause damage to the
vehicle, but you may experience reduced fuel economy
and undesirable performance from the engine and
transmission. The tow/haul mode should be used
only when pulling a heavy trailer.
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4-55 Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have
extra wiring and a heavy
-duty turn signal flasher
(included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they are not. It's important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have an automatic transmission, you should
use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will
minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your
transmission. Or, if you have a manual transmission,
it's better not to use FIFTH (5) gear, just drive in
FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the
manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake
applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see ªEngine
Overheatingº in the Index.
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4-57 When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for
more on this. Things that are especially important
in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid
(don't overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling
system and brake system. Each of these is covered in
this manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly. If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review
these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
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4-58 Trailer Wiring Harness
The light-duty trailer wiring is a six-wire harness
assembly. The optional heavy
-duty trailer wiring is an
eight
-wire harness assembly. The harnesses are stored
under the vehicle, along the passenger
-side frame
crossmember on two
-door vehicles or on the driver's
side corner frame rear crossmember on four
-door
vehicles. The heavy
-duty trailer wiring is fused in the
engine compartment fuse block. See ªFuses and Circuit
Breakersº in the Index. Both harnesses have no
connector and should be wired by a qualified
electrical technician. The technician can use the
following color code chart when connecting the
wiring harness to your trailer.Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or auxiliary
wiring (eight
-wire harness only).
Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the
starter solenoid (eight
-wire harness only).
Light Green: Back
-up lamps.
Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps.
Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.
Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.
White: Ground wire.
Light Blue: Auxiliary stoplamp.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave it
loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break,
but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie it neatly so it won't be damaged.
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5-17
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch
engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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