2001 DODGE RAM steering wheel

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor. Refer to
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Remove ABS wheel speed sensor if equipped.
Refer to Brakes for procedures.
(5) Remove the cotter pin and axle hub nut.
(6) Remove hub bearing bolts (Fig. 22) and remove
hub bearing from the steering knuckle.
(7) Remove brake dust shield from knuckle.
(8) Remove axle shaft from the housing. Avoid
damaging the axle shaft oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean axle shaft and apply a thin film of
Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease to the shaft splines,
seal contact surface, hub bore.
(2) Install axle shaft into the housing and differen-
tial side gears. Avoid damaging axle shaft oil seals in
the differential.
(3) Install dust shield and hub bearing on knuckle.
(4) Install hub bearing bolts and tighten to 170
N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install axle washer and nut, tighten nut to 237
N´m (175 ft. lbs.). Align nut to next cotter pin hole
and install new cotter pin.
(6) Install ABS wheel speed sensor, brake rotor
and caliper. Refer to Brakes for proper procedures.
(7) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(8) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
AXLE SHAFTS -
INTERMEDIATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove vacuum shift motor housing.
(2) Remove outer axle shaft.
(3) Remove inner axle shaft seal from shift motor
housing with a long drift or punch. Be careful not to
damage housing.
(4) Remove intermediate axle shaft and shift col-
lar.
(5) Remove intermediate axle shaft bearing (Fig.
23).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position bearing on the installation tool and
seat the bearing (Fig. 24) in the housing bore.
(2) Clean the inside perimeter of the axle shaft
tube with fine crocus cloth.
(3) Apply a light film of oil to the inside lip of the
new axle shaft seal.
(4) Install the inner axle seal (Fig. 25).
(5) Install shift collar in the axle housing.
(6) Lubricate the splined end of the intermediate
axle shaft with multi-purpose lubricant.
(7) Insert the intermediate axle shaft into the dif-
ferential side gear.
CAUTION: Apply all-purpose lubricant to the axle
shaft splines to prevent damage to the seal during
axle shaft installation.
Fig. 22 Hub and Knuckle
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - HUB BEARING
Fig. 23 Bearing Removal
1 - BEARING
2 - SHIFT MOTOR HOUSING OPENING
3 - AXLE TUBE
4 - LOCATION FOR OPEN-END WRENCH
5 - SPECIAL TOOL 5041-2
6 - NUT
7 - SPECIAL TOOL 5041-3
8 - SPECIAL TOOL D-354-2
3 - 28 FRONT AXLE - 216FBIBR/BE

FRONT AXLE - 248FBI
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI
DESCRIPTION...........................45
OPERATION.............................45
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................46
AXLE................................46
REMOVAL..............................50
INSTALLATION...........................50
ADJUSTMENTS..........................50
SPECIFICATIONS........................58
SPECIAL TOOLS.........................58
AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL..............................60
INSTALLATION...........................60
AXLE SHAFTS - INTERMEDIATE
REMOVAL..............................60
INSTALLATION...........................61
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL..............................61
INSTALLATION...........................61
AXLE VACUUM MOTOR
DESCRIPTION...........................62
OPERATION.............................62
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................63VACUUM MOTOR.......................63
REMOVAL..............................65
DISASSEMBLY...........................65
ASSEMBLY.............................65
INSTALLATION...........................65
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
REMOVAL..............................65
INSTALLATION...........................66
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL..............................66
INSTALLATION...........................66
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL..............................68
DISASSEMBLY...........................68
ASSEMBLY.............................69
INSTALLATION...........................69
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
REMOVAL..............................71
INSTALLATION...........................71
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR
REMOVAL..............................72
INSTALLATION...........................74
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI
DESCRIPTION
The housing for the 248 Front Beam-design Iron
(FBI) axle consists of an iron center casting with
tubes on each side. The tubes are pressed into and
welded to the differential housing.
The integral type housing, hypoid gear design has
the centerline of the pinion set below the centerline
of the ring gear.
The axle has a vent used to relieve internal pres-
sure caused by lubricant vaporization and internal
expansion.
The axles are equipped with semi-floating axle
shafts, meaning that loads are supported by the hub
bearings. The axle shafts are retained by nuts at the
hub bearings. The hub bearings are bolted to the
steering knuckle at the outboard end of the axle tube
yoke. The hub bearings are serviced as an assembly.
The axles are equipped with ABS brake sensors.
The sensors are attached to the knuckle assemblies
and the tone rings are pressed onto the axle shaft.
Use care when removing axle shafts as NOT to
damage the tone wheel or the sensor.The stamped steel cover provides a means for
inspection and servicing the differential.
The 248 FBI axle have the assembly part number
and gear ratio listed on a tag. The tag is attached to
the housing cover by one of the cover bolts. Build
date identification codes are stamped on the cover
side of a axle tube.
The differential case is a one-piece design. The dif-
ferential pinion mate shaft is retained with a roll
pin. Differential bearing preload and ring gear back-
lash is adjusted by the use of shims. The shims are
located between the differential bearing cones and
case. Pinion bearing preload is set and maintained by
the use of a collapsible spacer.
The axle differential covers can be used for identi-
fication of the axle (Fig. 1). A tag is also attached to
the cover.
OPERATION
The axle receives power from the transfer case
through the front propeller shaft. The front propeller
shaft is connected to the pinion gear which rotates
the differential through the gear mesh with the ring
gear bolted to the differential case. The engine power
is transmitted to the axle shafts through the pinion
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 248FBI 3 - 45

REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheels and tires.
(3) Remove the brake calipers and rotors. Refer to
Group 5, Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Remove ABS wheel speed sensors, if equipped.
Refer to Group 5, Brakes, for proper procedures.
(5) Disconnect the axle vent hose.
(6) Disconnect vacuum hose and electrical connec-
tor at disconnect housing.
(7) Remove the front propeller shaft.
(8) Disconnect the stabilizer bar links at the axle
brackets.
(9) Disconnect the shock absorbers from axle
brackets.
(10) Disconnect the track bar from the axle
bracket.
(11) Disconnect the tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckles.
(12) Position the axle with a suitable lifting device
under the axle assembly.
(13) Secure axle to lifting device.
(14) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
(15) Disconnect the upper and lower suspension
arms from the axle bracket.
(16) Lower the axle. The coil springs will drop
with the axle.
(17) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the weight of the
vehicle on the suspension, at normal height. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur. Rubber bushings must never
be lubricated.
(1) Support the axle on a suitable lifting device.
(2) Secure axle to lifting device.
(3) Position the axle under the vehicle.
(4) Install the springs, retainer clip and bolts.
(5) Raise the axle and align it with the spring
pads.
(6) Position the upper and lower suspension arms
in the axle brackets. Install bolts, nuts and align the
suspension alignment cams to the reference marks.
Do not tighten at this time.
(7) Connect the track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
(8) Install the shock absorber and tighten bolts to
121 N´m (89 ft. lbs.) torque.(9) Install the stabilizer bar link to the axle
bracket. Tighten the nut to 37 N´m (27 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Install the drag link and tie rod to the steer-
ing knuckles and tighten the nuts to 88 N´m (65 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the ABS wheel speed sensors, if
equipped. Refer to group 5, Brakes, for proper proce-
dures.
(12) Install the brake calipers and rotors. Refer to
Group 5, Brakes, for proper procedures.
(13) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(14) Connect vacuum hose and electrical connector
to disconnect housing.
(15) Install front propeller shaft.
(16) Check and add differential lubricant, if neces-
sary. Refer to Lubricant Specifications in this section
for lubricant requirements.
(17) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(18) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(19) Tighten the upper suspension arm nuts at
axle to 121 N´m (89 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the
upper suspension arm nuts at frame to 84 N´m (62 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(20) Tighten the lower suspension arm nuts at
axle to 84 N´m (62 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the lower
suspension arm nuts at frame to 119 N´m (88 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(21) Tighten the track bar bolt at the axle bracket
to 176 N´m (130 ft. lbs.) torque.
(22) Check the front wheel alignment.ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig.
4). A plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is
etched into the face of the pinion gear. This number
is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth
varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion
etched with a (0). The standard setting from the cen-
ter line of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion
is 127 mm (5.00 in.). The standard depth provides
the best gear tooth contact pattern. Refer to Back-
lash and Contact Pattern in this section for addi-
tional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/oil baffle. The shims are
placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 5).
If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth
variance etched into both the original and replace-
ment pinion. Add or subtract this number from the
thickness of the original depth shim/oil slinger to
compensate for the difference in the depth variances.
Refer to the Depth Variance chart.
3 - 50 FRONT AXLE - 248FBIBR/BE
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor. Refer to
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Remove ABS wheel speed sensor if equipped.
Refer to Brakes for procedures.
(5) Remove the cotter pin and axle hub nut.
(6) Remove hub bearing bolts (Fig. 22) and remove
hub bearing from the steering knuckle.
(7) Remove brake dust shield from knuckle.(8) Remove axle shaft from the housing. Avoid
damaging the axle shaft oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean axle shaft and apply a thin film of
Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease to the shaft splines,
seal contact surface, hub bore.
(2) Install axle shaft into the housing and differen-
tial side gears. Avoid damaging axle shaft oil seals in
the differential.
(3) Install dust shield and hub bearing on knuckle.
(4) Install hub bearing bolts and tighten to 170
N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install axle washer and nut, tighten nut to 237
N´m (175 ft. lbs.). Align nut to next cotter pin hole
and install new cotter pin.
(6) Install ABS wheel speed sensor, brake rotor
and caliper. Refer to Brakes for proper procedures.
(7) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(8) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
AXLE SHAFTS -
INTERMEDIATE
REMOVAL - INTERMEDIATE AXLE
(1) Remove the vacuum shift motor housing.
(2) Remove the outer axle shaft.
(3) Remove the inner axle shaft seal from the shift
motor housing with a long drift or punch. Be careful
not to damage housing.
(4) Remove intermediate axle shaft and shift col-
lar.
(5) Remove the intermediate axle shaft bushing
(Fig. 23).
BLOCK, ADAPTER ± C-239-37
BLOCK, ADAPTER ± C-239-62
HOLDER, YOKE - 6719A
PINION DEPTH, SET ± 6730
Fig. 22 Hub and Knuckle
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - 60 FRONT AXLE - 248FBIBR/BE
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)

WARNING
WARNING: DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON
BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CON-
TAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR
AFTERMARKET LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE
CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN
CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE
WHEN SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT CLEAN
BRAKE PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY
DRY BRUSHING. USE A VACUUM CLEANER SPE-
CIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF
ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM BRAKE COMPONENTS.
IF A SUITABLE VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAIL-
ABLE, CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE WITH A
WATER DAMPENED CLOTH. DO NOT SAND, OR
GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED
IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESIDUE.
DISPOSE OF ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBES-
TOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS
TO MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND OTH-
ERS. FOLLOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE
OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINIS-
TRATION AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND
DISPOSITION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(8) Push pedal shaft back and out of passenger
side of bracket (Fig. 24).
(9) Remove pedal shaft, brake pedal, wave washer
and bushings from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Replace bracket and pedal bushings if neces-
sary. Lubricate shaft bores in bracket and pedal
before installing bushings with Mopar Multi-mileage
silicone grease.
(2) Apply liberal quantity of Mopar multi-mileage
grease to pedal shaft and to pedal and bracket bush-
ings.
(3) Position brake pedal in mounting bracket.
(4) Slide pedal shaft into bracket and through
pedal from passenger side.
(5) Push pedal shaft out driver side of mounting
bracket just enough to allow installation of retaining
E-clip.
(6) Install the wave washer between the bracket
and the pedal bushing on the passenger side.
(7) Push pedal shaft back toward passenger side of
bracket and install remaining E-clip on pedal shaft.
(8) Install booster push rod on brake pedal. Secure
push rod to pedal with washer and retaining clip.
(9) Install brake lamp switch bracket and switch,
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLA-
TION).
(10) Install knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
Fig. 24 Brake Pedal Mounting (With Automatic
Transmission)
1 - PEDAL SHAFT
2 - SHAFT RETAINING E-CLIPS (2)
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - PEDAL BUSHING (2)
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 17
PEDAL (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.
(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 26).
(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal. (Fig. 27).
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster (Fig. 28).
Fig. 26 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - RETURN LINE
3 - LINE FROM PUMP
4 - HYDRAULIC BOOSTER
5 - LINE TO GEAR
Fig. 27 Booster Push Rod
1 - BOOSTER PUSH ROD
2 - WASHER
3 - CLIP
4 - PEDAL
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 19
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)