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4-36 Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good
deal longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond
the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
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5-19
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure
cap is hand
-tight.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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5-30
The jacking tools are stored on the passenger's side of
the trunk behind the panel with the red pull handle.
Make sure these tools are properly secured when
not in use.
If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don't want to spin your
wheels too fast. The method known as ªrockingº can
help you get out when you're stuck, but you must
use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you're
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don't
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.
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5-31
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see ªTire Chainsº in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn
your traction control system off. (See ªTraction Control
Systemº in the Index.) Then shift back and forth
between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the
wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may
free your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after a few
tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to
be towed out, see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in the Index.
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6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
- 2 Service
6
- 3 Fuel
6
- 5 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
- 5 Filling Your Tank
6
- 9 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
- 11 Engine Oil
6
- 15 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
- 19 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
- 19 Rear Axle
6
- 20 Engine Coolant
6
- 24 Surge Tank Pressure Cap
6
- 24 Power Steering Fluid
6
- 25 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
- 26 Brakes
6
- 30 Battery
6
- 30 Bulb Replacement6
- 37 Wiper Blade Replacement
6
- 38 Tires
6
- 47 Appearance Care
6
- 47 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
- 49 Care of Safety Belts
6
- 51 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
- 52 Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated
Wheels (If Equipped)
6
- 53 Underbody Maintenance
6
- 54 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
- 55 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
- 55 Service Parts Identification Label
6
- 56 Electrical System
6
- 63 Replacement Bulbs
6
- 63 Capacities and Specifications
6
- 64 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
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6-29
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads
could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel bolts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel bolts in the
proper sequence to GM specifications.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
See ªBrake System Inspectionº in the Maintenance
Schedule booklet under Part C ªPeriodic
Maintenance Inspections.º
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal
travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the
vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together
if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your
vehicle was designed and tested with top
-quality GM
brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking
system
-- for example, when your brake linings wear
down and you have to have new ones put in
-- be sure
you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you
don't, your brakes may no longer work properly.
For example, if someone puts in brake linings that
are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your
front and rear brakes can change
-- for the worse.
The braking performance you've come to expect can
change in many other ways if someone puts in the
wrong replacement brake parts.
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6-38
5. To reinstall the wiper blade assembly, slide it over
the wiper arm to engage the ªJº hooked end on the
wiper blade assembly. Pull up on the assembly to
lock it into place.
Tires
Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by
a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions
about your tire warranty and where to obtain service,
see your Catera Warranty booklet for details.
CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires
are dangerous.
Overloading your tires can cause overheating
as a result of too much friction. You could
have an air
-out and a serious accident.
See ªLoading Your Vehicleº in the Index.
Underinflated tires pose the same danger
as overloaded tires. The resulting accident
could cause serious injury. Check all tires
frequently to maintain the recommended
pressure. Tire pressure should be checked
when your tires are cold.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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6-39
CAUTION: (Continued)
Overinflated tires are more likely to be
cut, punctured or broken by a sudden
impact
-- such as when you hit a pothole.
Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have
been damaged, replace them.
See ªInflation -- Tire Pressureº in this section
for inflation pressure adjustment for higher
speed driving.
Inflation -- Tire Pressure
The Tire-Loading Information label, which is located
on the rear edge of the driver's door, shows the correct
inflation pressures for your tires when they're cold.
ªColdº means your vehicle has been sitting for at least
three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
If you'll be driving at speeds higher than 100 mph
(160 km/h) where it is legal, raise the cold inflation
pressure of each tire to 38 psi (260 kPa) for tire size
P225/55R16 and to 39 psi (270 kPa) for tire size235/45R17. When you end this very high
-speed
driving, reduce the cold inflation pressures to those
listed on the Tire
-Loading Information label.
NOTICE:
Don't let anyone tell you that underinflation or
overinflation is all right. It's not. If your tires
don't have enough air (underinflation), you can
get the following:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation),
you can get the following:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road hazards.