1999 Oldsmobile Bravada change wheel

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4-19 Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it's one
of those hills that's just too steep to climb, descend or
cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small
hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant
incline with only a small change in elevation where you
can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the
incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may
not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by
bushes, grass or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach
a hill.

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply
steeper in places?

Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?

Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
won't have to make turning maneuvers?

Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your
path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?
What's beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the
hill if you don't know. It's the smart way to find out.

Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they
are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps.

Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the
steering wheel.

Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Don't use more power than you need,
because you don't want your wheels to start spinning
or sliding.

Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If
the path twists and turns, you might want to find
another route.

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4-25
CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you'll need
longer braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud
-- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the
idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it's deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don't try it
-- you probably won't get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.

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4-49 Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy
-duty turn signal flasher (included in
the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It's
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You should use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer.
Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a
trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of
your transmission.

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5-18
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Turn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won't move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle, at the opposite end.

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5-19
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you'll need is stored along the
driver's side inner rear quarter panel. Your vehicle is
also equipped with work gloves and a plastic ground
mat to assist in the changing of a flat tire.
To remove the jack cover,
pull up on the latch(es) on
the cover. Remove the
wheel blocks, jack and
wheel wrench.
The spare tire is stored under the vehicle.
NOTICE:
Never remove or restow a tire from/to a stowage
position under the vehicle while the vehicle is
supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire
fully against the underside of the vehicle
when restowing.

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5-23
4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise.
Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is
enough room for the spare tire to fit.
5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.
6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces and
spare wheel.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could
fall off, causing a serious accident.

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6-39 Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles
(10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear,
rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel
alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See
ªWhen It's Time for New Tiresº and ªWheel
Replacementº later in this section for more information.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first
rotation is the most important. See ªScheduled
Maintenance Servicesº in the Index for scheduled
rotation intervals.
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation
pattern shown here.After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear inflation pressures as shown on the
Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts
are properly tightened. See ªWheel Nut Torqueº in
the Index.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which
it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose
after a time. The wheel could come off and cause
an accident. When you change a wheel, remove
any rust or dirt from places where the wheel
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be
sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you
need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See
ªChanging a Flat Tireº in the Index.)

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6-61
Air Conditioning Refrigerants
Not all air conditioning refrigerants are the same.
If the air conditioning system in your vehicle needs
refrigerant, be sure the proper refrigerant is used.
If you're not sure, ask your dealer.
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Replacement part numbers listed in this section are
based on the latest information available at the time of
printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this
manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle
when it was built, or if you have any questions, please
contact your dealer.
Oil Filter PF52. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Cleaner Filter A1163C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
PCV Valve CV769C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Automatic Transmission Filter Kit 24200796. . . . . .
Spark Plugs 41
-932 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel Filter GF481. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Windshield Wiper Blade Trico (20 inches/50.8 cm). .
Backglass Wiper Blade Trico (14 inches/35.6 cm). . .
Vehicle Dimensions*
Wheelbase 107.0 inches (271.8 cm). . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Length 180.9 inches (459.5 cm). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Height 63.2 inches (160.5 cm). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Width 67.6 inches (171.7 cm). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Tread 57.3 inches (145.4 cm). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Tread 55.1 inches (139.9 cm). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
*Figures reflect base equipment only.