Page 433 of 667

60FRONT SUSPENSION
2
REPAIR 12.Knock back staking and using a suitable socket,
remove and discard hub nut.
13.Remove washer from hub.
14.Remove hub and brake disc assembly complete
with bearings.
15.Remove outer bearing and spacer from hub.
16.Remove grease seal and inner bearing from
hub.
17.Remove inner and outer bearing tracks from
hub.
Refit
18.Clean hub and bearing locations.
19.Fit inner and outer bearing tracks to hub.
20.Pack inner bearing with grease and fit to hub.
21.Fit new seal flush with rear face of hub using
LRT-54-003andLRT-99-003.
22.Clean stub axle.
23.Pack outer bearing with grease, fit spacer and
bearing to hub.
24.PositionLRT-54-019over hub nut threads on
axle casing.
25.Fit hub assembly to stub axle, remove
LRT-54-019.
26.Fit washer and new hub nut and tighten to30
Nm (22 lbf.ft).
27.Rotate and push/pull hub to setle bearings.
Tighten hub nut to210 Nm (150 lbf.ft).
28.To check drive shaft end float, mount a dial
gauge using bracketLRT-99-503to driving
member bolt hole.
29.Ensure dial gauge is contacting hub nut face.
30.Move drive shaft in and out noting dial gauge
reading.31.If end float is present refer to table for correct
spacer and change spacer as necessary.
32.When no end float is evident, remove the dial
gauge and mounting bracket.
33.Stake the hub nut.
34.Clean hub and axle shaft faces.
35.Fit new driving member gasket.
36.Position driving member to hub and tighten new
bolts to65 Nm (48 lbf.ft).
37.Fit original shim(s) to drive shaft and secure with
circlip.
38.Position brake caliper to hub, align fixings, fit
bolts and tighten to82 Nm (60 lbf.ft).
39.Remove plugs from brake pipe connections.
40.Connect brake pipe union to jump hose and
tighten union.
CAUTION: Use 2 spanners when
tightening or loosening unions.
41.Remove brake hose clamp from jump hose.
42.Bleed brake system.See BRAKES,
Adjustment.
43.Fit road wheel, remove axle stand and tighten
wheel nuts to130 Nm (95 lbf.ft).
44.Operate foot brake to locate brake pads before
taking vehicle on road.
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Page 434 of 667
FRONT SUSPENSION
3
REPAIR End Float (mm) Spacer size
(mm)Colour code
0.00 15.5 Purple
0.025 15.4 Yellow
0.050 15.4 Yellow
0.075 15.4 Yellow
0.10 15.3 Red
0.125 15.3 Red
0.150 15.3 Red
0.175 15.2 Blue
0.200 15.2 Blue
0.225 15.2 Blue
0.250 15.2 Blue
0.275 15.1 Green
0.300 15.1 Green
0.325 15.1 Green
0.350 15.1 Green
0.375 15.0 Black
0.400 15.0 Black
0.425 15.0 Black
0.450 15.0 Black
0.475 14.9 White
0.500 14.9 White
0.525 14.9 White
0.550 14.9 White
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Page 436 of 667
64 - REAR SUSPENSION
CONTENTS
Page
REPAIR
BEARING - REAR HUB 1.......................................................................................
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Page 438 of 667

REAR SUSPENSION
1
REPAIR BEARING - REAR HUB
Service repair no - 64.15.14
Remove
1.Raise rear of vehicle.
WARNING: Support on safety stands.
2.Remove rear road wheel.
3.Remove 2 bolts securing brake caliper to hub.
4.Release caliper from disc and tie aside.
5.Remove 5 bolts securing axle shaft.
6.Remove axle shaft and discard gasket.
7.Knock back staking, and using a suitable socket,
remove and discard stake nut.
8.Remove hub nut washer.
9.Remove hub and brake disc assembly complete
with bearings.
10.Remove outer bearing and spacer from hub.
11.Remove grease seal and inner bearing from
hub.
12.Remove inner and outer bearing tracks from
hub.
Refit
13.Clean hub and bearing locations.
14.Fit inner and outer bearing tracks to hub.
15.Pack inner bearing with grease and fit to hub.
16.Fit new grease seal flush with rear face of hub
usingLRT-54-003andLRT-99-003.
17.Clean stub axle.
18.Pack outer bearing with grease, fit spacer and
bearing to hub.
19.Fit hub assembly to stub axle, remove
LRT-54-019.
20.Fit washer and new hub nut and tighten to30
Nm (22 lbf.ft).
21.Rotate and push/pull hub to settle bearings.
Tighten hub nut to210 Nm (150 lbf.ft).
22.To check drive shaft end float, mount a dial
gauge using bracketLRT-99-503to driving
member bolt hole.
23.Ensure dial gauge is contacting hub nut face.
24.Move drive shaft in and out noting dial gauge
reading.
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Page 439 of 667
64REAR SUSPENSION
2
REPAIR 25.If end float is present refer to table for correct
spacer and change spacer as necessary.
26.When no end float is evident, remove the dial
gauge and mounting bracket.
27.Stake the hub nut.
28.Clean hub and axle shaft faces.
29.Fit new driving member gasket.
30.Position driving member to hub and tighten new
bolts to65 Nm (48 lbf.ft).
31.Fit original shim(s) to drive shaft and secure with
circlip.
32.Position caliper to hub, fit bolts and tighten to82
Nm (61 lbf.ft).
33.Fit road wheel, remove axle stands and tighten
road wheel nuts to130 Nm (96 lbf.ft).
34.Operate brake pedal to locate brake pads before
driving vehicle.
35.Check and top up brake fluid.
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Page 440 of 667
REAR SUSPENSION
3
REPAIR End Float (mm) Spacer size
(mm)Colour code
0.00 15.5 Purple
0.025 15.4 Yellow
0.050 15.4 Yellow
0.075 15.4 Yellow
0.10 15.3 Red
0.125 15.3 Red
0.150 15.3 Red
0.175 15.2 Blue
0.200 15.2 Blue
0.225 15.2 Blue
0.250 15.2 Blue
0.275 15.1 Green
0.300 15.1 Green
0.325 15.1 Green
0.350 15.1 Green
0.375 15.0 Black
0.400 15.0 Black
0.425 15.0 Black
0.450 15.0 Black
0.475 14.9 White
0.500 14.9 White
0.525 14.9 White
0.550 14.9 White
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Page 510 of 667

PANEL REPAIRS
1
INFORMATION BODY REPAIRS
Body shells are of riveted, bolted and welded
construction and are bolted to the chassis frame.
It is essential that design dimensions and strength are
restored in accident rectification. It is important that
neither structural weakness nor excessive local
stiffness are introduced into the vehicle during body or
chassis repair.
Repairs usually involve a combination of operations
ranging from straightening procedures to renewal of
either individual panels or panel assemblies. The
repairer will determine the repair method and this
decision will take into account a balance of economics
between labour and material costs and the availability
of repair facilities in both equipment and skills. It may
also involve considerations of vehicles down-time,
replacement vehicle availability and repair turn-around
time.
It is expected that a repairer will select the best and
most economic repair method possible, making use of
the facilities available. The instructions given are
intended to assist a skilled body repairer by expanding
approved procedures for panel replacement with the
objective of restoring the vehicle to a safe running
condition and effecting a repair which is visually
acceptable and which, even to the experienced eye,
does not advertise the fact that it has been damaged.
This does not necessarily mean that the repaired
vehicle will be identical in all respects with original
factory build. Repair facilities cannot always duplicate
methods of construction used during production.
The panel repairs shown in this section are all based
on a 110 Station Wagon. Therefore all illustrations
and text relate only to this model. Although certain
areas of the vehicle, such as the front end, are
relevant to all models.
Operations covered in this Manual do not include
reference to testing the vehicle after repair. It is
essential that work is inspected and suspension
geometry checked after completion and if necessary a
road test of the vehicle is carried out, particularly
where safety related items are concerned.Where major units have been disconnected or
removed, it is necessary to ensure that fluid levels are
checked and topped up when necessary. It is also
necessary to ensure that the repaired vehicle is in a
roadworthy condition in respect of tyre pressures,
lights, washer fluid etc.
Body repairs often involve the removal of mechanical
and electrical units as well as associated wiring.
Where this is necessary use the relevant section in
this manual.
Taking into consideration the differences in body
styles, steering and suspension systems as well as
engine and suspension layouts, the location of the
following components as applicable to a particular
vehicle is critical:
Front suspension upper damper
mountings.
Front suspension or sub frame mountings.
Engine mountings on RH and LH chassis
longitudinals.
Rear suspension upper damper mountings.
Rear suspension mountings or lower
pivots.
Steering rack mountings.
Additional points which can be used to check
alignment and assembly are:
Inner holes in crossmember - side - main
floor.
Holes in valance front assembly.
Body to chassis mounting holes.
Holes in rear floor.
Holes in rear lower panels or extension
rear floor.
Fuel tank mountings.
Apertures for windscreen, backlight, bonnet and doors
can be checked by offering up an undamaged
component as a gauge and also by measuring known
dimensions.See BODY DIMENSIONS section.
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Page 514 of 667

PANEL REPAIRS
1
BODY DIMENSIONS CHASSIS AND BODY
Chassis
The chassis on all Defender variants are of the box
section, ladder type construction, manufactured from
2 mm (14swg) steel and treated with zinc phosphate,
cathodic electro coated, followed by waxing in the rear
crossmember.
Outriggers and angled brackets welded to the chassis
support suspension and axle components and are
also used as body mounting points. A detachable box
section crossmember, located between the two
chassis longitudinals is fitted to facilitate main gearbox
and tranfer box assembly removal.Should chassis damage occur, a comprehensive
range of components are available, including body
support outriggers, cross members and radius arm
mounting brackets. ALWAYS fit genuine parts that are
fully guaranteed and to original equipment
specification, fitted with Land Rover’s BS 5135
welding standard.
Body
All body panels, with the exception of the fascia
bulkhead, are manufactured from aluminium alloy.
Galvanized steel is used for the front wheel arches to
give optimum protection. Most panels are also treated
with zinc phosphate and cathodic electro coated with
polyester surfacer, and are bolted to the welded
chassis.
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