1999 FIAT PUNTO Ron

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
6.3 Camshaft cover gasket
not attempt to lover it ofl • instead free >t by working around the cover and lapping it lightly with a soft-faced mallet, 3 Recover the camshaft covor gasket {see Illustration). Inspect the gasket carefully. And renew It If damage or deterioration is evident. 4 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and camshaft cover thoroughly, removing all traces of oil and old gasket - take care to avoid damaging the surfaces as you do this.
Refitting 5 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head and make sure it Is correctly seated. 6 Lower the cover onto the gasket making sure the gasket is not displaced. 7 Insert Ihe mounting bolts and tighten them progressively to the specified torque. 8 Refit the air cleaner assembly and inlet duct with reference to Chapter 4A or 48.
7 Camshaft oil seal • renewal I
1 Remove the timing beft and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5, 2 Using a suitable hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the cylinder head taking care not to damage the surface of (he camshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the cylinder head and the end of the camshaft. To prevent damage to the new olf seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the camshaft and lightly oil it.
4 Dip the new oil seal In oil then locate it over the camshaft making sure that the sealing lips are facing inwards, 5 Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely Into the cylinder head. Remove the adhesive tape. 8 Refit the camshaft sprocket and liming belt wtth reference to Sections 5 and 4.
8 Crankshaft oil seals - ^ renewal S
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The fronl oil seal is located in tho oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean Ihe seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it. 4 Dtp the new oil seal In oil then offer It up 1o the oil pump casing making sure that tho sealing lips are facing Inwards. G Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely into the casing. Remove the adhesive tape. 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Sections S and 4.
Rear {left-hand side) oil seal Note: The following paragraphs describe renewal of the rear oil seal leaving the housing in position. Refer to Chapter 2D for details of removing the housing. 7 Remove the fiywheel/drlveplate as described in Section 10. 8 Using a suitable hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the rear oil seat housing taking care not to damage the surface of Ihe crankshaft. 9 Clean the seating In the nousing and the surface of the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft for burrs which may damage the sealing lip of the new seal, and If necessary use a fine file to remove them,
10 Dip the new seal In clean engine oil and carefully locate it over the crankshaft rear flange making sure that It is the correct way round. 11 Progressively tap the oil seal Into the housing keeping It square to prevent distortion. A block of wood is useful for this purpose. 12 Refit the fiywheet/drlvepiate with refer-ence to Section 10.
9 Cylinder head -removal and refitting I
i Removing the timing belt inner covers 9.12 Removing the cylinder head
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative termine! (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A. then remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 48. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable and controls from the throttle housing. 4 Disconnect the fuel hoses. 5 Disconnect the coolant and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head and inlet manifold. 6 Disconnect all electrical leads noting their location. 7 Remove the Ignition colls with reference to Chapter 58. 8 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4, then unbolt end remove the timing belt inner covers (see Illustration). 9 Unbolt and remove the Inlet manifold, complete with throttle housing. On MPI models unbolt the fuel rail. 10 Unbolt the exhaust manifold from th» cylinder head, and tie it to the front of tto engine compartment. If preferred remove the manifold completely by unbolting Ihe downpipe. Also disconnect iha downpipe bracket. 11 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts hall a turn at a time in the reverse order to thai shown In illustration 9.24b. When the bolts in free, remove them wtth their washers. 12 Lift the cylinder head from Ihe block (see Illustration), if It is stuck tight Insert pieces
of
wood Into the exhaust or Inlet ports, and use them as levers to rock the head off the block. On no account drive levers into the gasket joint, nor attempt to tap the head sideways,
as
It Is located on positioning dowels. 13 Remove and discard the cylinder heed gasket and the manifold gaskets. 14 The cylinder head can be dismantled after removing the camshaft and cam followers as described in Chapter 2D. 15 If the valves have been ground-in, the valve clearances will require adjusting, as described In Chapter 1A. This should be dons before the cylinder head is refitted to the engine.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
10.10 Tighten the flywheel bolt to the specified torque However, it may be possible lo have it surface*ground; seek (he advice of a Rat dealer or engine reconditioning specialist, 5 If Ihe ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the flywheel must be renewed. Automatic transmission models 6 Check the driveplate for signs of damage and renew it if necessary. If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the driveplate must be renewed.
Refitting 7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel/ drivoplate and crankshoft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap. if available.
ft a suitable tap fs not . # | available, cut two slots down jHlNTI
toe
threads of ono of the old bolts with a hacksaw, and use the bolt to remove the locking compound from the throads.
8 If the new retaining bolts are not supplied with their threads already pre-coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 9 Offer up the fiywhee'/drlveplate lo the crankshaft, using the alignment marks made during removal, and fit the new retaining bolts (together with the spacer plate on manual transmission models), 10 Lock the flywheel/dnveplate using Ihe method employed on dismantling, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustration), 11 Refit the clutch on manual transmission models as described in Chapter 6. 12 Relit the transmission as described In Chapter 7A or 78.
11 Engine mountings • inspection and renewal
inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check Ihe mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check II possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear In the mounting by carefuliy levering against It to check for free play. Where this is not possible enlist the
aid
of
an
assistant to move the engina/transmission back
and
forth, or from s»de to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play rs to bo expected even from new components, excessive wear
should
be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.
Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 8 Place a trolley jack beneath the right-hand side of Ihe engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Unscrew the nut securing the engine bracket to the mounting. 8 Lower the engine slightly then unboll the mounting from the body. 9 Locate the new mounting on the body, insert the bolts and tighten to the specified torque.
10 Raise tne engine and locate the bracket on the mounting. Refit tho nut and tighten lo the specified torque. 11 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Left-hand mounting 12 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support) 13 Place a trolley |sck beneath the transmission, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting tne weight of the engine/transmission. 14 Unscrew Ihe bolts securing the left-hand mounting to tho body. 15 Unscrew the nut securing ihe mounting to the transmission bracket and recover the washers. 16 Lower the transmission sufficiently to remove the mounting from the transmission bracket. 17 Locate the new mounting In the trans-mission bracket and refit the nut and washers. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. 18 Raise the engine and refit the mounting-to-body bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 19 Remove the Irolloy jack and lower the vehicle lo the ground. Rear mounting 20 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 21 Working beneath Ihe vehicle, unscrew Ihe bolts secunng the rear engine mounting to the underbody. 22 Temporarily support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack. 23 Unbolt the rear mounting assembly from Ihe transmission and withdraw from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolt and separate Ihe bracket from tlve mounting. 28 Fitting the new mounting Is a reversal of the removal procedure.
12 Sump -removal and refitting
12.2 Removing the flywheel housing cover plate 12.4 Removing the sump
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1 A. 2 Unbolt and remove the cover plate from the lower pari of the llywheel housing (see illustration). 3 Refer to Chapter 4D and unbolt the exhaust Iront pipe from Ihe manifold. Undo Ihe support bracket fastenings and lower the front pipe clear of the sump. 4 Unscrew the sump securing screws and nuts and pull the sump downwards to remove it (see Illustration). The joint sealant will

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
require cutting with a sharp Knife to release
the sump.
Clean away all old gasket material. Refitting
5
Wwn refitting, a bead of RTV silicone nsiant gasket 3 mm in diameter should be applied lo the sump flange. Fit the sump, screw in tha fixing screws and tighten to the spscabed torque. Note the flange end fixing
nuts
(see illustrations).
6
'//ait one hour for the gasket compound to henjai before filling with engine oil. 7 Refit the flywheel housing cover plate and tohaust system front pipe.
8
lower the vehicle to the ground and fill the eng'rewith oil (see Chapter 1A). Check the oil
fevai
alter running the engine for a few minutes.

13 Oil
pump and pick-up tube - >>>
removal,
inspection and ^ refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain tho engine oil and remove the sump adsswibed in Section 12.
%
Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge .
(see
Chapter 1A|. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In
Section A.
4
Lock
the crankshaft against rotat>on either by tfacng a block of wood between a crankshaft wb and the inside of the crankcase, or by jjmning the flywheel starter ring gear with a
lutabfe
tool.
I3v8a Removing the oil pump pressure relief valve
12.5a Tightening a sump fixing screw
5 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft sprocket boll and take off the sprocket. If it is tight, use two screwdrivers to lever it off, or use a two or three-legged puller. 6 Unbolt and remove the oil pick-up/filter screen assembly. Note the sealing washer. 7 Extract the oil pump fixing bolts and withdraw the pump. Remove the gasket.
Inspection 8 The oil pump incorporates a pressure relief valve, which can be removed for examination by depressing the spring plunger and pulling out the keeper plate (see illustrations). 9 If pump wear Is suspected, check the gears in the following way. Extract the fixing screws and remove the rear cover plate. The screws are very tight, and will probably require the use of an impact screwdriver (see illustration).
pressure relief valve
12.5b Sump fixing screw and flange end fixing nut
10 Check the clearance between the outer gear and the pump housing using feeler blades. Check the gear endtloat by placing a straightedge across the pump body, and checking the gap between the straight-edge and gear face (see illustrations). If the clearances are outside the specified tolerance, renew the oil pump complete. 11 If the pump is unworn, refit the rear cover plate and tighten the screws fully. 12 Apply air pressure from a tyre pump to the oil pump oil ducts, to clear any sludge or other material. Prime the pump by pouhng clean engine oil into its inlet duct, at the same time turning the oil pump inner gear with the fingers. 13 Lever out the oil seal and drive a new one squarely into the oil pump casing (see illustrations). Lubricate the oil seal lips.
13.9 Using an impact screwdriver to remove the oil pump rear cover pfate screws
13,19s Measuring oil pump outer gear-to- 13.10b Measuring oil pump gear endtloat pump housing clearance

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Lubrication system Oil pump type By-rotor driven from front of crankshaft Outer rotor-io-houslng clearance 0.100 to 0.210 mm Axial clearance 0.025 to 0.070 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm itrf ft Camshaft driven gears 120 89 Camshaft sprocket 120 89 Crankshaft sprocket centre bolt: Stage
1
20 15 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90® Cylinder head: Stage
1
30 22 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90" Stage 3 Angle-tighten a further 90° Cylinder head extension to cylinder head 15 11 Engine mounting bolt: M10
x
1.25 59 44 M8 25 18 Engine mounting nut (MlOx 1.25) 60 44 Flywheel 44 32 Timing belt tensioner 25 18 Sump 10 7
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided into four Parts; A, B. C and O. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine hi the vehicle are described in Part A. SOHC (8-valve) petrol engines. Part B, DOHC (16-valve) petrol engines and Pari C, dlesei engines. Part D covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, B and C, the assumption Is made that the engine is Installed In the vehicle, with all ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified by their capacities. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, Is given in the Specifications. The engine covered in this Part of Chapter 2 is a water-cooled, double overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder unit, with cast iron cylinder block and aluminium-alloy cylinder head. The unit is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine. The cylinder head houses the eight inlet and eight exhaust valves, which are closed by single coil springs, and which run in guides pressed Into the cylinder head. The two camshafts are housed in 8 cylinder head extension which is bolted to the top of the cylinder head. The exhaust camshaft is driven by a toothed timing belt and In turn drives the inlet camshaft via a pair of gears located at the left-hand end of the cylinder head extension.
The camshafts actuate the valves directly via self-adjusting hydraulic cam followers mounted in the cylinder head extension. The crankshaft is supported by five main bearings, and endfioat is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted to (he upper section of the centre main bearing. Engine coolanl is circulated by a pump, driven by the timing belt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from the front of the crankshaft. Oil is drawn from Ihe sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, It is distributed to the cylinder head and cylinder head extension, where it lubricates the camshaft journals and cam followers, and also to the crankcase, where it lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big and small-ends. gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. Oil Jets are fitted to the base of each cylinder bore - these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to improve cooling.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car: a) Auxiliary drivebett - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 1A) b) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly -removal, Inspection and refitting c) Timing belt and covers • removal and refitting d) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting e) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' f) Cylinder hoad extension - removal and refitting g) Camshaft and cam followers - removal and refitting h) Camshaft oil seal - renewal i) Crankshaft oil seals • renewal
f) Flywheel - removal, inspection and
refitting
k) Engine mountings - Inspection and
renews'
f) Sump • removal and refitting 'Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed In Chapter 2D. Note 1: It is possible to remove the
pistons
and connecting rods (after removing (to cylinder head and sump) without removing
tt*»
engine. However, this Is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on fix bench, as described in Chapter 20. Note
2x
Many of the procedures in this Ctopfer entail the use of numerous special tools. Whet possible, suitable alternatives are descnbei with details of their fabrication. Before starring any operations on the engine, read through
tto
entire procedure first to familiarise yourself
wft
the work involved, tools to be obtained mi new parts that may be necessary.
2 Engine assembly/ valve timing holes -genera! information
and
usage
Note: Do not attempt to rotate the angint whilst the camshafts are locked In position,
il
the engine is to be left in this state foratofi$ period of time. It Is a good idea to plect suitable warning notices inside the vehicle, and in the engine compartment. This wfl reduce the possibility of the engine being accidentally cranked on the starter motor, which is likely to cause damage with the locking tools In place. 1 To accurately set the valve timing for ell operations requiring removal and refitting of
the
timing belt, liming holes are drilled in ihe camshafts and cylinder head extension. Ihe holes are used In conjunction with camshaft locking tools and crankshaft positioning
rods w
lock the camshafts when all the pistons me positioned at the mid-point of their stroke. Ths

2B*3 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
2.2s Arrangement of Fiat special tools for setting the piston position and locking the camshafts
arrangement prevents the possibility of the vaivescontacting the pistons when refitting the cinder head or timing belt, and also ensures tet the correct valve timing can be obtained.
The design
of the engine is such that there are n> conventional timing marks on the crankshaft
er
camshaft sprockets to indicate the normal 70C position. Therefore, for any work on the lining belt, camshafls or cylinder head, the b&ng
and
positioning tools must be used.
2 The
special Fiat tools for setting the camshafts and pistons consist of two rods ttikh slide in sleeves that are screwed into
So
t and No 2 cylinder spark plug holes. The
rods are
pushed down to contact the pistons, ird the crankshaft is then turned until both tods protrude from their sleeves by the same enount. With the crankshaft correctly set,
ti»o
camshaft locking pins are used, one for tM inlet camshaft and one for the exhaust earretaft. The pins are screwed into holes on *ach »de of the cylinder head extension so M they engage with slots machined In (he
2.2b Fiat special tool for setting piston position...
camshafts. The arrangement of the Rat special tools are shown (see illustrations). The tool numbers are as follows: Camshaft locking toots Toot No 1860985000 Piston positioning tool Toot No 1860992000
2.2c ... and locking the camshafts
3 Although the special Fiat tools are relatively inexpensive and should be readily available from Flat dealers, it is possible to fabricate suitable alternatives, with the help of a local machine shop, as described below. Once the tools have been made up, their usage Is described In the relevant Sections of this Chapter where the tools are required. Camshaft locking tool fabrication 4 Remove the air cleaner, inlet air duct and resonator as descnbed in Chapter 4B. 5 Unscrew the sealing plug from the front face of the cylinder head extension. 6 Using the sealing plug as a pattern, obtain a length of threaded dowel rod or two suitable bolts to screw into the sealing plug hole. With the help of a machine shop or engineering works, make up the camshaft locking toots by having the dowel rod or bolts machined to the dimensions shown (see illustrations). Note that two will be needed, one for each camshaft.
Suitabt* roll pin (or titling /
ramoviitg
tool
-J 10 h -4 h
AT —
T
—
2,6a To make an alternative camshaft locking tool... 2.6b ... have suitable dowel rods or bolts machined to the dimensions shown

2B*5 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.11a Release the crankshaft TDC sensor wiring from the clip on the upper timing cover... throttle potentiometer and the Idle control stepper motor. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wiring connector located
in
the inlet manifold below the throttle body,
end
disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 15 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the fuel injector harness and the intake air temperature/pressure sensor, then fcconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and the EVAP purge valve hose. 18 Undo the two bolts securing the plastic mlet manifold upper section to the lower section. Release the spark plug HT lead from the location groove in the manifold upper wctton, then lift the upper section, complete
»ith
throttle body, off the engine. Recover the 0-rngs from the manifold ports. 17 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fuel
4£1a Screw the spark plug bodies of the homo-made piston positioning tools into each spark plug hole ...
4.21b ... place a suitable washer or similar into the recess to keep the dowel rod vertical...
4.11b ... then slide the wiring plug and socket from the timing cover slot
rail assembly to the inlet manifold lower section, then carefully pull the Injectors from the manifold. Lift the fuel rail and Injector assembly, with fuel hoses still connected, and position it to one side. 16 Undo the bolts securing the engine management ECU mounting brackets to the body and move the ECU to one side without disconnecting the wiring connector. 19 Remove the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 20 Unscrew the two sealing plugs from the front and rear of the cylinder head extension to enable the camshaft locking tools to be inserted. 21 Screw the spark plug bodies of the home-made piston positioning tools into each spark plug hole and insert the dowel rods into each body. To keep the dowel rods vertical, locate a suitable washer or similar over Ihe rod and into the recess at the top of the spark plug hole. In the photos shown here, an old valve stem oil seal housing was used but anything similar will suffice (see illustrations). 22 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket centre bolt, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until all four dowel rods are protruding from the top of the cylinder head extension by the same amount. As the engine is turned, two of the rods will move up and two will move down until the position is reached where they are all at the same hoight. The best way to check this is to place a straight edge along the top of the rods and turn the crankshafl very slowly until the
4.21c ... then insert the dowel rods
4.12b ... and lower timing covers
straight edge contacts all four rods (see illustration). 23 When all four rods are at the same height, all the pistons will be at the mid-point of their stroke. Using a screwdriver or similar inserted into the front timing hole in the cylinder head extension, check that the timing slot in the exhaust camshaft is approximately aligned with the liming hole. If the camshaft slot cannot be felt, turn the crankshaft through one complete revolution and realign the dowel rods using the straight edge. Check again for the camshaft slot. Note that although the pistons can be at the mid-point of their stroke twice for each cycle of the engine, the camshaft slots will only be positioned correctly once per cycle. 24 With the pistons correctly set, it should now be possible to screw in the camshaft
4.22 Place a straight edge along the top of the rods and turn the crankshaft until the straight edge contacts ail four rods

2B*6 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.24a Scrow in the camshaft locking tools into the timing holes in the cylinder head extension
locking tools Into the timing holes in the cylinder head extension. To provide the necessary degree of timing accuracy, the machined end of the locking tools are a very close fit in the slots machined in the camshafts. To allow the tools to be screwed
4.26 Slip the timing belt off the sprockets
To make a camshaft sprocket holding tool, obtain two lengths of steel strip about 6 mm thick by 30 mm wide or simitar, one 600 mm long, the other
200
mm long (all dimensions approximate). Bolt the two strips together to form a forked end, leaving the bolt slack so that the shorter sfrfp can pivot freely. At the end of each 'prong' of the fork, secure a bolt with a nut and a locknut, to act as the fulcrums; these will engage with the cut-outs In the sprocket, and should profrude by about 30 mm
4.24b The tools engage in tho camshaft slots when fitted (shown removed for clarity)
fully into engagement, it may be necessary to move the crankshaft In one direction or another very slightiy until the tools are felt to engage fully (see illustrations). 25 Release tho nut on the timing belt tensioner to release the tension on the belt (see illustration) 26 II the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paml or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the belt off the sprockets (see illustration). Note that the crankshaft must not be rotated whilst the belt is removed. 27 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots ol the teeth. Renew it If there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine is undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of its apparent condition. The cost ol a new bett is nothing compared with the cosi of repairs, should the belt break in service. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak 8nd rectify it. Wash down the engme timing belt area and all related components, to remove all traces of oil,
Refitting 28 Before refilling, thoroughly clean the liming bell sprockets. Check that Ihe tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew Ihe tensioner pulley as described in Section 5,
4.31 Fit the new belt around the sprockots observing the direction markings
4.25 Release the nut on the timing belt tensioner (arrowed)
29 The camshaft sprocket retaining bolt mutt; now be slackened to allow the sprocket Ic move as the timing bell Is refitted una tensioned. To hold the sprocket stationary^ while the retaining bolt is loosened, make upi. tool os follows and engage
>t
with the holes ^ i the sprocket (see Tool Tip). With the sprocket. held, slacken the retaining bolt. 30 Check that the pi6tons are still correct positioned at ihe mid-point of their stroke are that the camshafts are locked with the lockup: tools. 31 Ensuring that the direction markings on the timing belt point in the normal direction
cf
engine rotation, engage the Umlng belt vr* Ihe crankshaft sprocket first, then placed around the coolant pump sprocket and tte: camshaft sprocket (see Illustration). Rnaii>; slip the belt around the tensioner pulley. 32 Insert the jaws of a pair of right-angleo clrclip pliers (or similar) into Ihe two holes on; Ihe front face of the tensioner pulley (sec Illustration). Rotate the pulley to tension Ihj; belt until the belt Is quite taut. Maintain thr effort applied to the tensioner pulley. JM* tighten the pulley retaining nut. 33 Tighten the camshaft sprocket retains; bolt to the specified torque while holding th?; camshaft stationary using the method described previously (see Illustration). 34 Remove the piston positioning tools arc camshaft locking tools and turn In*; crankshaft through two complete turns In the normal direction of rotation,
4.32 Using right-angled clrclip pliers, turn the tensioner pulley to fully tension the bell

2B*7 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
35 Slacken the tensioner pulley retaining nut and reposition the tensioner to align the
mobile
indicator with the fixed reference mark
on the
pulley face (see illustration). Hold the
pdley in
this position and tighten the retaining
nut to the
specified torque. 36 Turn the crankshaft through a further two complete turns In the normal direction of rotation. Check that the timing is correct by alining Ihe piston positioning tools and
camshaft
locking tools as described previously. 37 When all is correct, remove the setting rri
locking
tools and refit the sealing plugs to 1ft© cylinder head extension, using new 0-
nr^s if
necessary. Tighten the plugs securely. 38 Refit the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 39 Refit Ihe ECU and secure with Ihe mooning bolts. 40
Renew the
injector O-ring seals, smear them Kith
8 little
Vaseline then locate the injectors and tef rail onto the inlet manifold lower section.
Saute Ihe fuel rail
with the two retaining bolts. 41 Relit the inlet manifold upper section using new sealing O-rlngs If necessary and
sectre
with the two bolts. 42 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the tot injector harness and the intake air temp-erature/pressure sensor, then connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and tha
EVAP
purge valve hose. 43 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the ihrottls potentiometer, idle control stepper motor and coolant temperature sensor. Reconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 44 Refit and adjust the accelerator cable as described in Chapter 4B. 46 Refit the upper and lower timing belt
covers
together with the TDC sensor wiring. 46 Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
three
retaining bolts securely. 47 Refit the air cleaner. Inlet air duct and resonator as described in Chapter 4B. 48
Refit
tha auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described i/t Chapter 1A, then reconnect the battery
S Timing belt tensioner
and
sprockets -
removal
and refitting

Timing
belt tensioner
Removal I
Remove
the timing belt as described in
Section
4. 1 Completely unscrew the tensioner nut and Wiethe tensioner off the mounting stud-Inspection
3 Wipe
the tensioner clean but do not use Kfrents that may contaminate the bearings.
Spin
the tensioner pulley on its hub by hand.
Sfcfl
movement or excessive freeplay is an rcfceticn of severe wear: the tensioner is not 3 serviceable component, and should be nnewsd.
4.33 Holding the camshaft sprocket with the tool described previously while tightening the sprocket bolt Refitting 4 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut. 5 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4. Camshaft sprocket Removal 6 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 7 Unscrew the bolt and slide the sprocket from the end of the camshaft. Inspection 8 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 6 and renew it. 9 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 10 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 11 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, then refit the retaining boll finger tight only at this stage. 12 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket Removal 13 Remove the timing bell as described In Section 4. 14 Working beneath the engine, unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, then hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a tool which engages the flywheel starter ring
<

Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the starter ring gear. 15 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. The sprocket may have an integral location key on its inner face, or a separate key which locates In a groove in the crankshaft nose may be fitted. Inspection 16 With the sprocket removed, examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 7 and renew it. 17 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 18 Wipe clean the sprocket and crankshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 19 Slide the sprocket onto the crankshaft making sure
11
engages the integral key or separate key, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using the method described in paragraph 14. 20 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
6 Camshaft
oil
seal -renewal
1 Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5. 2 Punch or drill a small hole in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into the hole, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fall in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and drive it into position until It seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care nof to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the Seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt as described in Sections 5 and 4.
7 Crankshaft oil seats -renewal I
4.35 Position the tensioner so that the mobile Indicator (1) is aligned with the fixed reference mark (2)
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The front oil seal is located in the oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it.