1999 FIAT PUNTO Water temperature

Lubricants and fluids 0.17
Lubricants and fluids
Engine Petrol Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better (Duckhams QXR Premium Petrol Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Petrol Engine Oil) Diesel Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better Duckhams QXR Premium Diesel Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Diesel Engine Oil) Cooling system Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and soft water (Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant) Manual gearbox Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE80W to API GL4 (Duckhams Hypoid Gear Oil SOW GL-4) Automatic transmission Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans III) Braking system Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake & Clutch Fluid) Power steering Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans Hi)
Choosing your engine oil
Engines need oil. not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to Improve fuel economy. By introducing a simplified and improved range of engine oils. Duckhams has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you lo choose the right oil for your engine.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction Without oil. the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.
• Cooling hot-spots Temperatures Inside the engine can exceed 1000°
C.
The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.
• Cleaning the engine internally Good quality engine oils clean the Inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil niter or flushed out at oil change.
OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE To handle and dispose of used engine oil safety, always: • Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. • Dispose of used oil and empty packs In a responsible manner In an authorised disposal site. tti Call 0800 663366 to find qIqq f £ the one nearest to you. Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.
DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS For the driver who demands a premium quality oil for complete reassurance, we recommend synthetic formula Duckhama QXR Premium Engine Oils. For the driver who requires a straight-forward quality engine oil, we recommend Duckhams Hypergrade Engine Ote.
For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.
^SGCKHAMS

ia.16 Every 2 years - petrol models
joint has not been disturbed for some time, if will bo necessary to gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the coolant to drain Into the container. 3 Certain models are fitted with cooling system bleed plugs, which should be opened to aid the draining process and help prevent airlocks. These are located on the top right hand edge of the radiator, on the heater Inlet hose and additionally, on 16-valve engines, on the heater outlet hose (see illustrations). If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided It is ciean and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 4 Once ail the coofant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position with the retaining clip.
Cooling system flushing 5 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or If the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, Ihe cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean. 6 The radiator should be flushed Independently of the engine, to avoid contamination. Radiator flushing 7 To flush the radiator disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean v/ater through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 9 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed wilh a good propnetary cooling system
cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer's Instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator. Engine flushing 10 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat as described In Chapter 3 then temporarily refit the thermostat cover. 11 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 12 On complotion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses with reference to Chapter 3,
Cooling system filling 13 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreezo mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see below). 14 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant Into the oxpansion lank to prevent airlocks from forming. Ensure that all bleed plugs/screws are open. 15 If the coolant Is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of litres of v/ater, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top-up with more water. 16 Once the level in the expansion tank starts to rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottom hoses to help expel any trapped air In the system. Once all the air is expelled, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark and refit the expansion tank cap. Close all bleed plugs. Continue the filling procedure as follows according to engine type.
1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-vaive) engines 17 Start the engine and run it until tt reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine and allow it to cool. 18 Chock for teaks, particularly around disturbed components. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank, and top-up H necessary. Note that the system must be coW before an accurate level Is indicated in the oxpansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is removed while the engine Is still warm, cover Ihe cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly to gradually relieve the system pressure (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wall until any pressure remaining In the system is released, then continue to turn the cap until It can be removed. 1242 cc (16-valve) engines 19 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. start the engine and run it at Idling speed for two to three minutes. Allow the engine to continue running until the electric cooling fan operates, but during this time, briefly in-crease the engine speed to 2000 to 3000 rpm every 30 seconds. Maintain the coolant level in the expansion tank to the MAX mark during tliis procedure, adding more coolant as necessary. 20 On models without air conditfoning, wilh the engine still idling, carefully unscrew the bleed plug on the top of the radiator. Increase the engine speed until fluid emerges from the bleed plug, then close the plug and return the engine to idle.

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Warning: Take suitable pre-cautions against scalding when opening the bleed plug as the coolant will be very hot. 21 On all models, allow the engine to continue running at idle for a further five minutes. After this time, switch the engine ofl, allow it 1o cool completely and when cool

ib-8 Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
10.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
9 Exhaust system check
1 With the engine cold {at least an hour after tho vehicle has been driven), check ihe complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system Is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe oorrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are In good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of tho system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity ot the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be Iracod to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or
suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
10 Driveshaft gaiter check
I
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto lull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition ol the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs ot cracking, splits or detenoration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see illustration). If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8. Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in Ihe driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.
11 Idle speed check and adjustment
1 The usual type of tachometer (rev counter), which works from ignition system pulses, cannot be used on diesel engines. A
diagnostic socket is provided for the use of Flat test equipment, but this will not normally be available to the home mechanic. If it Is not felt that adjusting the Idle speed by ear 19 satisfactory, It will be necessary to purchase or hire an appropriate tachometer, or else leave tho task to a Fiat dealer or other suitably equipped specialist, 2 Before making adjustments, warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Make sure that the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted (see Chapter 4C). 3 The adjustment must be made with all electrical components (Including the cooling fan) switched off. It the fan comes on dunng the adjustment, wait until it switches off automatically before proceeding. 4 The idle adjustment screw Is located on the top of the fuel injection pump (see illustration). To adjust the idie speed loosen the locknut and turn the screw as required then tighten the locknut. 5 On completion switch off the engine.
12 Fuel filter renewal i
1 The fuel filter is located on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. An electrically-operated heater is located between the filter and tlw housing, 2 Position a suitable container under the fuel filler. Loosen tho bleed screw on the top of the filter, then disconnect the wiring from Ihe water sensor and loosen the water drain screw on the bottom of the filter. Allow the fuel to drain completely (see illustration). 3 Tighten the drain and bleed screws, then Use an oii niter strep to loosen the fuel filter {see illustration).
12.2 Loosening the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter
11.4 fdie speed adjustment 1 Locknut 2 Adjustment screw

ib.14 Every 2 years - diesel models
Radiator flushing 7 To flush the radiator disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of dean water through the radiator, and continue Hushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 9 II after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cooling system cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer's instructions are followed carefully. If Ihe contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.
Engine flushing 10 To flush tho engine, remove the thermostat as described in Chapter 3. 11 With the bottom hose disconnected, direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue Hushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 12 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hose with reference to Chapter 3.
Cooling system filling 13 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub* Section). 14 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant Into Ihe expansion tank to prevent airlocks from forming. Ensure that all bleed plugs/screws are open. 15 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of litres of water, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top* up with more water. 18 Once ihe level in the expansion tank starts to rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottom hoses to help expel any trapped air in
the system. Once all the air is expelled, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark and refit the expansion tank cap. Close all bleed plugs. 17 Start Ihe engine and run il until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine and allow It to cool. 18 Check for leaks, particularly around disturbed components. Check the coolant level In the expansion tank, and top-up if necessary. Note that the system must be cold before an accurate level Is indicated In the expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap Is removed while the engine is still warm, cover the cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly to gradually relieve the system pressure (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system Is released, then continue to turn the cap untH it can be removed.
Antifreeze mixture 19 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion Inhibitors become progressively less effective. 20 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The quantity of antifreeze and levels of protection are indicated in the Specifications. 21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be complelely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. 22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the dale installed. Any subsequent topping-up should bs made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. 23 Do not use engine antifreeze In the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.
28 Brake fluid renewal

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Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyas and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring It. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as It absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can causa a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 1 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described In Chapter 9. except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, using a clean poultry baster or similar before starting, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a section of the circuit. 2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open Ihe first bleed screw in the sequence, and pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir.
ffffTOgf Old hydraulic fluid Is
lifcjllitt*
Invariably much darker In [HINT] colour than the new, making /{easy to distinguish the two.
3 Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid, and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from (he bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to Ihe MAX level line. 4 Work through all the remaining bleed screws In the sequence until new fluid can be seen al all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up 10 above the MIN level al all limes, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation is complete, check thai all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off ail traces of split fluid, and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road,

DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures 2B*11
camshaft cover plate... 25 Locate the cam follower retaining tools in position and refit the cylinder head extension
as
described In Section 8.

10
Cylinder head - &
removal and
refitting S
Removal Note; The cylinder head bolts are of special
sekned
design and a Fiat tool should be
obtained
to unscrew them. A Ton key will not
JSt however
in practise It was found that a dose-httlng Alien key could be used as an itemative. 1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Remove the cylinder head extension as oescAbed
m
Section 8. 3 Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing on the left-hand end of
Ihe
cylinder head. 4 Disconnect the heater hose from the outlet
at the
rear of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor md temperature gauge sensor wiring plugs
torn
the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 9 Undo the engine oil dipstick tube bracket retaining bolt and the two bolts securing the wing harness support clips to the inlet marriold lower section. 7 Undo Ihe retaining nuts and separate the ixhaust system front pipe from the exhaust manifold flange.
8
Check that nothing remains attached to the cinder head likely to impede removal. It Is assumed that the head will be removed complete with exhaust manifold and inlet manifold lower section. 9 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts half a turn K
e
time in the reverse order to that shown in (lustration 10.20a. When the bolts are free. «mwe them from their locations.. Id Lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is stuck tight rock the head to break the joint by mans of the manifolds. On no account drive
levers
into the gasket Joint, nor attempt to tap tf« head sideways, as it is located on positioning dowels. 11 Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket.
JK'
l^. 9.22b ... then apply RTV gasket sealant to the cover plate contact face 12 Refer to Chapter 20 for cylinder head dismantling and inspection procedures. Preparation for refitting 13 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly dean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns, Take particular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages -this Is particularly important for the lubncahon system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine's components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little grease In the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap. then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way. 14 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but If excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface Is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 15 Check the condition of the cylinder head bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever they are removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable
sequence
9.24 Lubricate the cam followers and place them in position in their respective bores solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting the assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that the bolt holes in the cylinder block have been mopped out to clear any oil, 17 The now gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit Ihe gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly clean. 18 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above. 19 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that it locates on the positioning dowel. 20 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean and lightly lubricated. Screw the bolts in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, lighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torquo setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge Is used during this stage ot tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 21 Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe to the manifold using a new flange gasket.
10.20b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stago 1 torque setting ...

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
failure, (he cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, Ihe main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers while checking it. 4 Din and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or It may pass through fillers or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left In engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded In the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure Is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which can be the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing materiel is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of Ihe bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring ihe engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the beanngs to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from Ihe steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil Is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly: there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on ft. 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; to do otherwise is false economy.
Selection 11 Main and big-end bearings are available in standard sizes and a range of undersizes to suit reground crankshafts • refer to the Specifications for details. The engine reconditioner will select the correct bearing shells for a machined crankshaft. 12 The running clearances can be checked when the crankshaft is refitted with its new bearings.
11 Engine overhaul -reassembly sequence
1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiariss yourself with the work Involved, and to ensure that ail items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A tube of sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order: a) Crankshaft (Section 12). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (Section 7). c) Oil pump (see Part A, B or C - as applicable). d) Sump (see Pan A, BorC-as applicable). e) Flywheel/driveplate (see Part A, B or C • as applicable). 1) Cylinder head (see Part A B or C - as applicable). g) Coolant pump (see Chapter
3)
h) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and timing belt (See Part A, B or C- as applicable). I) Engine external components, 3 At this stage, ail engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out on a completely clean work surface.
12 Crankshaft- % refitting and main bearing S running clearance check ^
Crankshaft - initial refitting 1 Crankshaft refitting Is the first stage ol engine reassembly following overhaul. At this point, it is assumed that the crankshaft, cylinder block/crankcase and beanngs have been cleaned, inspected and reconditioned or renewed. 2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, level work surface, with the crankcase facing upwards. Where necessary, unbolt the bearing caps and lay them out in order to ensure correct reassembly. If they are still in place, remove the bearing shells from the caps and the crankcase and wipe out the inner surfaces wilh a clean rag - they musl be kept spotlessly clean. 3 Clean the rear surface of the new bearing shells with a rag and fit ihem on Ihe bearing saddles. Ensure that the orientation lugs on the shells engage with the recesses in the saddles and lhat the oil holes are correctly aligned. Do not hammer or otherwise force the bearing shells into place. It Is critically important that the surfaces of the bearings ore kept free from damage and contamination. 4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and the crankshaft journals a final clean with a rag. Check that the oil holes In the crankshaft are free from dirt, as any left here will become embedded In the new bearings when Ihe engine is first started. 5 Carefully lay the crankshaft In the crankcase, taking care not to dislodge the bearing shells (see illustration}.
Main bearing running clearance check 8 When Ihe crankshaft and bearings are refitted, a clearance must exist between them

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions

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Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.

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Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.

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Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Testing 7 A rough test of the thermostat may be made by suspending it with a piece of siring in a container full of water. Heat tho water to bring it to the boii and observe the movement of the vaive shaft through the inlet port (see illustrations). 6 The thermostat valve must be fully open, by the time the water boils. If not, renew the complete IhermOstat/housIng assembly. 9 If a thermometer is available, the precise opening temperature of the thermostat may be determined; compare with the figures given in the Specifications. The opening temperature Is also marked on the thermostat housing. 10 Note that a thermostat which falls to close completely as ihe water cools must also be renewed.
Refitting 11 Ensure that the cylinder head and thermostat housing mating surfaces are
completely clean and free from ail traces of Ihe old gasket material. 12 Lay a new gasket In position on the cylinder head, then fit the thermostat housing and Insert retaining bolts, tightening them securely.
Caution: Do not over-tlghten tho retaining bolts, as tho alloy casting could easily be damaged 13 Where applicable, transfer the cooling fan switch and coolant temperature sensor to the new housing. 14 Refit the coolant hose(s) to the ports on the thermostat housing and lighten the clips securely. 15 Where applicable, refit the harness/hose support bracket to the thermostat housing and tighten the bolts securely. Also refit the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as described in Chapter 4B 15 Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B.
5 Electric cooling fan(s) -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 Detailed fault diagnosis should be camw out by a Rat dealer using dedicated tesl equipment, but basic diagnosis can be car&c out as follows. 2 If the fan does not appear to work, run if* engine until normal operating temperature s reached, Ihen allow It to idle. The fan shouldcti In within a few minutes (before lite temperalure gauge needle enters the red section), il nol. switch off the engine and disconnect tfie cooling fan motor wiring connector. 3 The motor can be tested by disconnecting it from the wiring loom, and connecting a 12? volt supply directly to It. The motor should operate - if not. the motor, or the motor wiring. Is faulty.
frotf heater from cylinder head mdotor
4.7b Thermostat operation in the fully closed position (diesel engine)
from neoier Irom cylinder head radiator
4.7c Thermostat operation in the fully open position (diesel engine)