1999 FIAT PUNTO clutch

Maintenance schedule - diesel models 1B.3
The mamtenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you. reI ihe dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These
are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily.
ff you wish to keep your vehicle In peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency.
performance and resale value of your vehicle. When the vehicle Is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly O Refer to Weekly checks
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or

6
months - whichever comes first • Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3) P Drain any water from the fuel filter (Section 4)
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or

12
months - whichever comes first ill addition lo tho Items listed above, cany out the following; D Check the operation of the brake warning lamp J (Section 5) Check the front brake pads for wear (Section 6) :-G Check the underbody and sealant for damage j" (Section 7) n Hose and fluid leak check (Section 8) 0 Check the condition of the exhaust system and its 1 mountings (Section 9) -D Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters ", (Section 10) O Check and adjust the idle speed (Section 11) ;0 Renew (he fuel filter (Section 12) J] Renew the air filter element (Section 13) L) Renew the pollen filter (Section 14) •• Check the steering and suspension components • for condition and security (Section 15)
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or

2
years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: (P Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the auxiliary drlvebeltfs) (Section 16) '• Check the freeplay and height of the clutch pedal " (Section 17) D Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances (Section 18) Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 19) • Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 20) O Cany out a road test (Section 21)
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: • Check and if necessary top-up the manual transmission oil level (Section 22)
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or
4 years - whichever comes first In addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the rear brake shoes for wear (Section 23) • Renew the timing belt (Section 24)'
•Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (ids 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the belt Is renewed at 40 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, le. mainly short Journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual bait renewal interval Is therefore very much up to the Individual owner, but bear in mind that sevefe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or
6 years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the condition and operation of the emission control system components (Section 25)
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km) • Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 26)
Every 2 years
(regardless of mileage) • Renew the engine coolant (Section 27) • Renew the brake fluid (Section 28)

ib-4 Component location - diesel models
Underbonnet view - turbo diesel model
1 Engine oil filter
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Oil
tilter
4 Brake/clutch fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner
cover
6 Power steering pump 7 Coolant expansion
tank
8 Windscreen washer
fluid
reservoir 9 Front suspension strut upper mounting 10 Fuel filter/heater
housing
11
Fuel
injection pump 12 Battery 13 Power steering fluid reservoir
Front underbody view - turbo diesel model
1 Oil
fitter
2 Sump drain plug 3 Transmission drain plug 4 Electric cooling fan unit 5 Left-hand
driveshaft
6 Intermediate
shaft
7 Bight-hand
driveshaft
8 Front suspension lower arms 9 Front anti-roll
bar
10 Exhaust downpipe 11 Front brake calipers 12
Rear
engine mounting 13 Radiator bottom hose
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org

ib-io Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
7 With the car standing on Its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very hide. If any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-plnion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod, Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective Internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.
9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock] absorber may be checked by bouncing 0*1 vehicle at each comer. Generally speaking. th»| body will return to its normal position and 8top| after being depressed. If It rises and returns cn| a rebound, the suspension strut/shocH absorber is probably suspect. Examine also* the suspension strut/shock absorber uppeij and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
18 Auxiliary drivebeltfs) % check and renewal
Note: Fiat specify the use of a spec/a/ toot to correctly set the drivebelt fens/on. if access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described beiow. If the method described Is used, the tension should be checked using the spec/a/ too! at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one, two or three auxiliary drivebeits may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an individual drivebelt. Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up the Iront of the car and support it securely on exie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Remove the right-hand wheel. 5 Remove the Inner cover(s) from under the right-hand wheelarch for access to the right-hand side of the engine. 6 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the auxiliary drivebelt(s) can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt: check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and
16.10a Loosening the alternator drivebelt adjustment bolt
separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear Is visible, the bell should be renewed, 7 If the condition of the belt Is satisfactory, check tho drivebelt tension as described below.
Renewal
Alternator drivebelt 8 On models with air conditioning, remove the compressor drivebelt as described below, 9 Unclip and remove the upper timing belt cover, then unbolt end remove the lower timing belt cover. 10 Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment lockbolt then unscrew the adjustment bolt to move the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebelt may be slipped off the alternator, crankshaft, and, on models with air con-ditioning, the Idler pulley (see Illustrations), 11 When renewing a drivebelt. ensure that the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys then tighten the adjustment bolt to take up any slsck In the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Power steering pump drivebelt
12 Remove the alternator drivebelt as described previously. 13 Slacken the bolts securing the power steering pump to the mounting bracket. 14 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until ail the tension Is removed from the dnvebelt. 15 Undo the bolts and remove the pulley guard from the power steering pump then slip the drivebelt off the pulleys,
16.10b Removing the drivebelt from the alternator pulley
18 Ensuring that the correct type of dnveberti^ used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn
the
adjusting bolt to just take up the slack in thi j belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described! below. Air conditioning compressor drivebelt 17 Slacken the bolts securing the adjustment j pulley bracket to the engine. 18 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and] turn the adjusting bolt until ell the tension is | removed from the drivebelt. then slip the be& | off the pulleys. 19 Ensuring that the correct type of drivebeX; is used, fit ihe belt around the pulleys and turn | the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack
m
] the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below.
Tensioning 20 Correct tensioning of the belt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overiightenlng. as this can cause wear in the alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor bearings. Note: Flat recommend use of their spec's/ tensioning tool however the following procedure will set the tension correctly. 21 The belt(s) should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys. To adjust, tighten or loosen the relevant adjustment bolt until the tension is correct. Fully tighten the pivot and adjustment lockbotts. Repeat this procedure for any remaining drivebeits removed for access. 22 Refit the lower timing belt cover end tighten the mounting bolts. 23 Refit the upper timing belt cover and secure with the clips. 24 Refit the inner cover and wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, then reconnect the battery negative terminal.
17 Clutch adjustment check
Refer lo Chapter 6, Section 2.

1B«12 Every 20 000 miles - diesel models
21 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of atl instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment rn turn, to check that It functions properly. Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feete positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps. Drivetrain 6 Check (he performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that tho drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel Is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action Is not abnormally vague or notchy. 11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from ihe front of the vehicle, as the vehicle « driven slowly In a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check In both directions, if a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a driveshaft |oinl, in which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
13 Check that there Is no vibration through the steering when braking. 14 Check that the handbrake operates correctiy without excessive movement of th« lever, end that it holds the vehicle stationery on a slope. 15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo es the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no fimher hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder. Note: The vacuum for the servo unit is provided by the vacuum pump mounted on the left-hand end of t/ie cylinder head.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
22 Manual transmission oil level check ;5§
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface. If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car Is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked Immediately after driving the car. some of the oil will remain distnbuted around the transmission compo-nents, resulting In an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on tho front of the
transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen key. unscrew the plug and clean it. 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; this does not necessarily Indicate that the level Is correct. To ensure that a true level Is established, wait until the Initial trickle has stopped, then add oil as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging. The level will be correct when the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of the specified type-Make sure that the vehicle Is completely level when checking the level and do not overfill. 4 When the level is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
22.2 Transmission filler/level plug location
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years
23 Rear brake shoe check
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support It on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support), Remove the rear roadwhecla. 2 Using the inspection hole at the edge ot the brake drum, check that the linings are not worn below the minimum thickness given In the Spec ifi cat Ions (see Illustration). If necessary use a torch. 3 If the friction material on any shoe is worn down to the specified minimum thickness or iess. all four shoes must be renewed as a set, 4 At the same time check for signs of brake fluid leakage. 5 For a comprehensive check, the brake
drum should be removed and cleaned. This will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, and the condition of the brake drum itself to be fully examined (see Chapter 9). 8 Refit the rubber plugs then lower the car to the ground.
24 Timing belt renewal
Refer to Chapter 2C. Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt
ranees/a!
is 70 000
mHes
(105 000
km),
it is strong recommended that the interval is reduced on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to tho individual owner.
That being said, it is highly recommended to err on the side of safety, and renew (he belt at
this
earlier interval, bearing in mind the drastic consequences resulting from belt fetfure.
23.2 Check the thickness of the shoe friction material through the hole on the edge of the drum (arrowed)

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Preparation for refitting 16 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting
the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take padicular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not afowed to enter the oil and water passages -Ihs is particularly important for the lubrication
system, as
carbon could block the oil supply to
Ihe
engine's components. Using adhesive tape
and
paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in tf« cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering twgap between the pistons and bores, smear
a
iittte grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all
ttie pistons
in the same way. 17 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if (xcassive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the Cytodar head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion.
Refer
to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 18 Check the condition of the cylinder head
MRS.
and particularly their threads, whenever
they are
removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting Ihe assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that
the
bolt holes in the cylinder block have been
mopped
out to clear any oil. 20 Check that the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned with tteir respective cylinder head and oil pump covtr marks as described in Section 2. 21 The new gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit
the
gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly dean.
9.22a Place the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block ... 22 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above (see illustrations). 23 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that It locates on the positioning dowel. 24 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts In engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. Screw the bolls in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, tighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through ihe specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used dunng this stage of tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 25 Refit the inlet manifold and throttle body using a new gasket (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B). 28 Refit the exhaust manifold using a new gasket. Tighten all nuts. Reconnect the exhaust downplpe bracket. 27 Refit the timing belt inner covers and tighten the bolls. 28 Refit the timing belt, and tension It as described in Section 4. Refit the timing belt outer cover. 29 Refit the ignition colls and camshaft cover. 30 Reconnect all hoses, electrical leads and controls referring the relevant Chapters of this manual. 31 Fit the air cleaner and ducting.
9.22b ... so that the ALTO marking can be read from above 32 Reconnect the battery then fill and bleed the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A.
10 Flywheel/driveplate • ^ removal, inspection
and
refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A or 7B. On manual transmission models also remove the clutch (Chapter 6). 2 Mark the position of the flywheel/driveplate with respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. Note thai on some models although there is only one location dowel on the flywheel/driveplate there are two holes in the eno of the crankshaft and it is therefore possible to locate Ihe flywheel 180n out. The flywheel/driveplate must now be held stationary while the bolts are loosened. A home-made locking tool may be fabricated from a piece of scrap metal and used to lock the ring gear. Bolt the tool to one of the transmission bellhousing mounting holes. 3 Unscrew then remove the mounting bolts then lift off the flywheel/driveplate. Recover the spacer plate on manual transmission models. Discard the fiywheet/drivepiate boils; new ones must be used on refitting.
Inspection
Manual transmission models 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface is deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
JEaMKA. mar 9.24c Using an angle gauge to tighten the cylinder head bolts to their second and third stage torque settings
L

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
10.10 Tighten the flywheel bolt to the specified torque However, it may be possible lo have it surface*ground; seek (he advice of a Rat dealer or engine reconditioning specialist, 5 If Ihe ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the flywheel must be renewed. Automatic transmission models 6 Check the driveplate for signs of damage and renew it if necessary. If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the driveplate must be renewed.
Refitting 7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel/ drivoplate and crankshoft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap. if available.
ft a suitable tap fs not . # | available, cut two slots down jHlNTI
toe
threads of ono of the old bolts with a hacksaw, and use the bolt to remove the locking compound from the throads.
8 If the new retaining bolts are not supplied with their threads already pre-coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 9 Offer up the fiywhee'/drlveplate lo the crankshaft, using the alignment marks made during removal, and fit the new retaining bolts (together with the spacer plate on manual transmission models), 10 Lock the flywheel/dnveplate using Ihe method employed on dismantling, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustration), 11 Refit the clutch on manual transmission models as described in Chapter 6. 12 Relit the transmission as described In Chapter 7A or 78.
11 Engine mountings • inspection and renewal
inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check Ihe mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check II possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear In the mounting by carefuliy levering against It to check for free play. Where this is not possible enlist the
aid
of
an
assistant to move the engina/transmission back
and
forth, or from s»de to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play rs to bo expected even from new components, excessive wear
should
be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.
Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 8 Place a trolley jack beneath the right-hand side of Ihe engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Unscrew the nut securing the engine bracket to the mounting. 8 Lower the engine slightly then unboll the mounting from the body. 9 Locate the new mounting on the body, insert the bolts and tighten to the specified torque.
10 Raise tne engine and locate the bracket on the mounting. Refit tho nut and tighten lo the specified torque. 11 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Left-hand mounting 12 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support) 13 Place a trolley |sck beneath the transmission, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting tne weight of the engine/transmission. 14 Unscrew Ihe bolts securing the left-hand mounting to tho body. 15 Unscrew the nut securing ihe mounting to the transmission bracket and recover the washers. 16 Lower the transmission sufficiently to remove the mounting from the transmission bracket. 17 Locate the new mounting In the trans-mission bracket and refit the nut and washers. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. 18 Raise the engine and refit the mounting-to-body bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 19 Remove the Irolloy jack and lower the vehicle lo the ground. Rear mounting 20 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 21 Working beneath Ihe vehicle, unscrew Ihe bolts secunng the rear engine mounting to the underbody. 22 Temporarily support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack. 23 Unbolt the rear mounting assembly from Ihe transmission and withdraw from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolt and separate Ihe bracket from tlve mounting. 28 Fitting the new mounting Is a reversal of the removal procedure.
12 Sump -removal and refitting
12.2 Removing the flywheel housing cover plate 12.4 Removing the sump
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1 A. 2 Unbolt and remove the cover plate from the lower pari of the llywheel housing (see illustration). 3 Refer to Chapter 4D and unbolt the exhaust Iront pipe from Ihe manifold. Undo Ihe support bracket fastenings and lower the front pipe clear of the sump. 4 Unscrew the sump securing screws and nuts and pull the sump downwards to remove it (see Illustration). The joint sealant will

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
10.2 Locking the flywheel using a homo* made tool
10 Flywheel - £ removal, inspection § and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove the transmission and clutch as described in Chapter 7A and 6, 2 Lock the tlywheei in position using a home-made locking tool, fabricated from a piece of scrap metal. Boll it to one of the transmission belihousing mounting holes (see illustration). Mark the position of the flywheel with respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. Note that although there is only one location dowel on the flywheel, there are two holes In the end ol the crankshaft and it Is therefore possible to locate tne flywheel 180v out resulting in the timing mark being In Ihe incorrect position. 3 Unscrew and remove the flywheol mounting bolts then lift olf the llywheel. Recover the spacer piate (see illustrations). Discard the flywheol retaining bolts: new ones must be used on refitting,
Inspection 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface >s deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywhoel must be renewed. However, H may be possible to have It surface-ground: seek the advice of a Fiat dealer or engine reconditioning specialist, 5 If the ring gear Is bsdly worn or has missing teeth, the flywheel must be renewed.
Refitting 6 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if available.
HBTiffSrl If a suitable tap Is not
Wijlilfil
available, cut two slots down HlNTi threads of one of the old 1 J flywheel bolts with a hacksaw, and use the bolt to removo the locking compound form tho threads.
7 If the now flywheel retaining bous are not
10.8a Location dowel on the flywheel
supplied with their threads already pre* coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 8 Otter up the flywheel to the crankshaft, using the abgnment marks made during removal, and fit the new retaining oolts together with the spacer plate (see Illustrations). 9 Lock the flywheel using Ihe method employed on dismantling, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. 10 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. Remove the locking tool and refit the transmission as described in Chapter 7A,
11 Engine mountings -inspection and renewal
Inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened or separated from the metal ai any point; renew Ihe mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are securely tightened, 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear In the mounting by carefully levering against il to check for free ploy. Where this is not possible enlist the aid of an assistant to move the onglno/transmission back and forlh. or from side lo side, while you watch the mounting While some free play is to be
10.8b Inserting tho flywheel bolts
expected even from new components, axcessive wear should be obvious. II excessive free play Is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.
Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 If not already done, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front ot tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vohicle support), 6 Place a trolley lack beneath the right-hand side of the engine, with a block of wood on Ihe jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Unscrew the bolts securing the nght-hand mounting to the body (see illustration). 8 Unscrew the special long nut securing the mounting to Ihe engine and recover the washers.
11.7 Right-hand engine mounting viewed from below

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
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4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission