Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK
A
Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut
Suspension and steering 10*11
13.11b ... and left-hand steering gear-to-subframe bolts
hooked onto the engine lifting eyelet on the cylinder head. Working underneath the vehicle, unbolt and remove the transmission-lo-subframe rear mounting bracket. 13 Position a trolley jack under the right hand skle of the subframe crossmember. Raise the jack to take the weight of the crossmember
and
the attached components. 14 With reference to Section 4, slacken and remove the two bolts that secure the suspension lower arm rear bush to the subframe. Slacken and withdraw the subframe-to-bodywork bolt, located adjacent to the rear of the suspension lower arm. Throad two flange head bolts of the same thread size, but approximately 25 mm longer into the vacated holes, then carefully lower
the
trolley jack and allow ihe subframe to rest on the heads of the temporary bolts (see (lustration), 15 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 13 end 14 at the left-hand side of the vehicle. On completion, the subframe should be resting at
&
height approximately 25 mm lower than normal. 16 The additional clearance will now permit the steering gear pinion to be lowered away from the bulkhead. When the end of the pinion has cleared Ihe aperture, manoeuvre the entire steering gear assembly through the *tiae?arch.
Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the
following points: s) Remote the temporary bolts and refit the original length fixings.
13.14 Slacken and remove the subframe-to-bodywork bolts (arrowed)
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque settings. c) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (see Lubricants and fluids In Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described in Section 15. d) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest oppor-tunity by a Flat dealer or a tyre specialist.
14 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal <
Note: New gaiter retaining clips should be used on refitting. 1 Remove the relevant track-rod end as described in Section 17. 2 If not already done, unscresv the track-rod end locknut from Ihe end of the track-rod. 3 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter on the track-rod, then release the gaiter securing clips. Slide the gailer from the steering gear, and off the end of the track-rod. 4 Thoroughly clean tho track-rod and the steering gear housing, usrng fine abrasive paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or sharp edges, which might damage the new gaiter sealing lips on installation. Scrape off all the grease from the old gaiter, and apply it to the track-rod inner balljoint. (This assumes that grease has not been lost or contaminated as a result of damage to the old gaiter. Use fresh crease if In doubt.) 5 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track-rod. and locate it on the steering gear housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter with the mark made on the track-rod prior to removal, then secure it in position with new retaining clips. 6 Screw the track-rod end locknut onto the end of the track-rod. 7 Refit the track-rod end as described in Section 17.
15 Power steering hydraulic system • bleeding ^
General 1 The following symptoms indicate that there is air present In the power steering hydraulic system: a) Generation of air bubbles in fluid reservoir. b) Clicking noises from power steering pump. c) Excessive buzzing or groaning from power steering pump. 2 Note that when the vehicle Is stationary, or while moving the steering wheel slowly, a hissing noise may be produced In the steering gear or the fluid pump. This noise is inherent in the system, and does not indicate any cause for concern.
Bleeding 3 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Check the fluid level in the power steering fluid reservoir (bear in mind that the vehicle will be tilted, so the level cannot be read accurately), and if necessary top-up to just above the relevant level mark. 5 Have an assistant tum the steering quickly from lock to lock, and observe tho fluid level, if the fluid level drops, add more fluid, and repeat the operation until the fluid level no longer drops. Failure to achieve this within a reasonable period may indicate a leak in the system. 6 Stan the engine and repeat the procedure described In the previous paragraph. 7 Once the fluid level has stabilised, and all air has been bled from the system, lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Power steering pump - Sk removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or an old poultry baster. 2 Remove the clip and disconnect the rubber fluid supply hose from the port on the top of the power steering pump. Be prepared for an amount of fluid loss • position a container underneath the port and pad the surrounding area with absorbent rags. 3 Slacken the union and disconnect the fluid delivery hose from the side of the power steering pump. Again, be prepared for an amount of fluid loss. 4 Unscrew tho clamp bolt and through-bolt at either end of the drivebelt guard, then detach Ihe guard from the power steering pump (see illustrations). 5 Partially unscresv the two power steering pump mounting bolts then rotate the pump towards the engine slightly, to release the tension from the belt. Carefully ease the drivebelt from the pump pulley.
16.4a Unscrew the clamp bolt...