1999 FIAT PUNTO wheel alignment

o»i4 Weekly checks
Tyre condition and pressure
l( is very important that tyres are In good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre (allure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style • harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will ail produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating' the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing ail four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded In the tread before they penetrate the tyro to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
r
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so (hat its point of penetration is marked. Then Immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage (n the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewails. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the Inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage, Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by •kerbing"1 whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel Is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.
New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will v/ear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is fett only through the steering, then II Is likely that |ust the front wheels need balancing. H, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car. the rear wheels could be out of balance. Whoel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.
-j Tread Depth • visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands {8}, which wiU appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewail (A).
Tyre tread wear patterns
2 Tread Depth * manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
2 Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately alter the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result Tyre pressures are shown on page 0*18.
Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear
Underinflatlon {wear an both sides) Under-lnflatton will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side] Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!
Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyro tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures
It you sometimes have (o inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified tor maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most lyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or 'tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of I he treed which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.7 Removing the timing belt cover bottom bolt
7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom of the cover, this can easily be overlooked (see illustration), 8 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see illustration). 9 Set the engine al TDC on No 1 cylinder as described in Section 2. 10 Release the nut on the timing belt tensioner, move the lensloner pulley away from the belt and retighten the nut to hold the pulley In the retracted position (see illustration). 11 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the bell off the sprockets-Note that the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated whilst the belt Is removed. 12 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine ts undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of Its apparent condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing compared with the cost of repairs, should the belt break in sen/ice. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it. Wash down the engine timing belt area and alt related components, to remove all traces of oil.
Refitting 13 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets. Check that Ihe tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the tensioner pulley as described In Section 5. 14 When refitting the new belt, make sure that the sprocket liming marks ore still In alignment and fit the belt so that the arrows on the belt point in the direction of engine rotation, and the lines of the belt coincide with the sprocket marks. 15 Engage the timing belt wilh the crankshaft sprocket first, then place it around the coolant pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket (see illustration). Finally slip the bell around the tensioner pulley.
II
4.8 Removing the crankshaft pulley
16 Refease the tensioner nut and Insert the laws of a pair of right-angled clmilp pliers (or similar Into the two holes on the front face of the tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley anticlockwise against the belt until the belt is quite taut. Check lhat the sprocket timing marks have not moved out of alignment. 17 Maintain the effort apptied to the tensioner pulley, then tighten the retaining nut. 18 Turn the crankshaft through two complete turns in the normal direction ot rotation and check that when the centre of (he longest run of the belt Is gripped between finger and thumb It can Just be twisted through 90°. 19 If the belt appears too be too slack or too fight, slacken the tensioner nut and repeat steps 16 to 18 until the correct tension is achieved. Caution: The above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension. The tension must be checked accurately by a Flat dealer using specialised checking equipment, at the earliest opportunity. 20 Refit the timing belt cover, the crankshaft pulley, auxiliary drivebelt(s>, spark plugs and the air cleaner/ducting. Adjust the tension of the auxiliary drivebelt(sl as described In Chapter 1A. 21 Refit the front wheel and lower the car to the ground.
5 Timing belt tensioner % and sprockets - removal, ^ Inspection and refitting ^
Timing beit tensioner
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described m Chapter 4A or 48, 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebeltfs) as descnbed In Chapter 1A. 4 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket, 5 Unbolt and remove the timing bolt cover. Note the bolt located at the bottom ot the cover, this can easily be overlooked.
4.10 Releasing the timing belt tensioner nut
4.15 Fitting the timing belt
6 Set the engine at TDC on No 1 cylinder as described In Section 2, 7 Loosen the nut on the timing belt tension* and move the tensioner pulley away from the belt (see Illustration), Keep the belt engaged with the sprockets using a cable-tie or string. 8 Completely unscrew the nut and slide Ihe tensioner off Ihe mounting stud. Inspection 9 Wipe the tensioner clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the tensioner pulley on Its hub by hono. Stiff movement or excessive freeplay is w indication of severe wean the tensioner Is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed. Refitting 10 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut.
S.7 Timing bell tensioner retaining nut (arrowed) - shown with timing belt removed

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
10.10 Tighten the flywheel bolt to the specified torque However, it may be possible lo have it surface*ground; seek (he advice of a Rat dealer or engine reconditioning specialist, 5 If Ihe ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the flywheel must be renewed. Automatic transmission models 6 Check the driveplate for signs of damage and renew it if necessary. If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the driveplate must be renewed.
Refitting 7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel/ drivoplate and crankshoft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap. if available.
ft a suitable tap fs not . # | available, cut two slots down jHlNTI
toe
threads of ono of the old bolts with a hacksaw, and use the bolt to remove the locking compound from the throads.
8 If the new retaining bolts are not supplied with their threads already pre-coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 9 Offer up the fiywhee'/drlveplate lo the crankshaft, using the alignment marks made during removal, and fit the new retaining bolts (together with the spacer plate on manual transmission models), 10 Lock the flywheel/dnveplate using Ihe method employed on dismantling, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustration), 11 Refit the clutch on manual transmission models as described in Chapter 6. 12 Relit the transmission as described In Chapter 7A or 78.
11 Engine mountings • inspection and renewal
inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check Ihe mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check II possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear In the mounting by carefuliy levering against It to check for free play. Where this is not possible enlist the
aid
of
an
assistant to move the engina/transmission back
and
forth, or from s»de to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play rs to bo expected even from new components, excessive wear
should
be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.
Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 8 Place a trolley jack beneath the right-hand side of Ihe engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Unscrew the nut securing the engine bracket to the mounting. 8 Lower the engine slightly then unboll the mounting from the body. 9 Locate the new mounting on the body, insert the bolts and tighten to the specified torque.
10 Raise tne engine and locate the bracket on the mounting. Refit tho nut and tighten lo the specified torque. 11 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Left-hand mounting 12 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support) 13 Place a trolley |sck beneath the transmission, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting tne weight of the engine/transmission. 14 Unscrew Ihe bolts securing the left-hand mounting to tho body. 15 Unscrew the nut securing ihe mounting to the transmission bracket and recover the washers. 16 Lower the transmission sufficiently to remove the mounting from the transmission bracket. 17 Locate the new mounting In the trans-mission bracket and refit the nut and washers. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. 18 Raise the engine and refit the mounting-to-body bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 19 Remove the Irolloy jack and lower the vehicle lo the ground. Rear mounting 20 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 21 Working beneath Ihe vehicle, unscrew Ihe bolts secunng the rear engine mounting to the underbody. 22 Temporarily support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack. 23 Unbolt the rear mounting assembly from Ihe transmission and withdraw from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolt and separate Ihe bracket from tlve mounting. 28 Fitting the new mounting Is a reversal of the removal procedure.
12 Sump -removal and refitting
12.2 Removing the flywheel housing cover plate 12.4 Removing the sump
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1 A. 2 Unbolt and remove the cover plate from the lower pari of the llywheel housing (see illustration). 3 Refer to Chapter 4D and unbolt the exhaust Iront pipe from Ihe manifold. Undo Ihe support bracket fastenings and lower the front pipe clear of the sump. 4 Unscrew the sump securing screws and nuts and pull the sump downwards to remove it (see Illustration). The joint sealant will

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
5.11 Special Fiat tool necessary to accurately position the camshaft before fitting the sprocket
Camshaft sprocket Removal 11 Remove the timing belt as descnbed in Section 4. A special Rat tool (see illustration) is necessary to position the camshaft before refitting the sprocket, however il the original camshafl Is being re-used, use of the special tool can be ovoided by accurately marking the camshaft position before removing the sprocket. Caution: On later 1996 models the camshaft sprocket can be moved In either direction on tho camshaft location dowel. 12 The camshaft sprocket must now oe held stationary whilst the retaining bolt is loosened. This is no problem on later models where the sprocket incorporates holes, however some early models have a sprocket without holes • on this type Fiat technicians use a special tool
V*— r^r
To make a camshaft sprocket holding tool, obtain two lengths of steel strip about 6 mm thick by 30 mm wide or simllar, one 600 mm long, the other 200 mm long (all dimensions approximate). Bolt the two strips together to form a forked end, leaving tho bolt slack so that the shorter strip can pivot freely. At the end of each 'prong' of the fork, secure a bolt with a nut and a locknut, to act as the futcrums; theso will engage with the cut'Outs In the sprocket, and should protrude by about 30 mm
which clamps on the sprockot teeth. If this tool is not available, it may be possible to make up a similar tool. On later models a sprocket holding tool can easily be made (see Toot Tip). 13 On 1996-on models mark the position of the camshaft in relation to the cylinder head.
5.14a Unscrew and remove the bolt and washer...
This is best achieved by removing tho vacuum pump from the flywheel end of the head and marking the head in relation to Ihe drive slot in ihe end of the camshaft. Note the location of the hose and bracket when removing tha vacuum pump (seo illustration). 14 Unscrew and remove tho boll and v/ashof and withdraw the sprocket from the end of tha camshaft (see Illustrations). Note tha location peg on the camshafl. Inspection 15 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, rater to Section 7 and renew it 16 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 17 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces-Refitting 18 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft. On J996-on models chock that the camshaft is positioned accurately to tho previously made marks and also make sura thai the TOC mark on Ihe sprocket Is aligned with the mark on the Inner timing cover. If avoiiablo use the special Fiat toot to locate the camshaft correctly. Rofil the bolt and washer and tighten lo the specified torque while holding the camshalt sprocket stationary using the method descnbed previously. Recheck all alignment marks. 19 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket Caution: The crankshaft sprockot retaining bolt has a left-hand thread. Removal 20 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 21 Working beneath the engine unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, than hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a tool which engages the flywheel starter ring gear (see Section 10). Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the starter ring gear 22 Unscrew and remove (he crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt (left-hand thread), washer and spacer and slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft (see illustrations). It is quite tight and il will be necessary to use a
5.14b ... and remove the sprocket from tho end of the camshaft 5.22a Unscrew and remove the bolt, washer and spacer... 5.22b ... and remove the crankshaft sprocket

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
9.31c Removing the inner timing cover
34 Working in ihe reverse of Ihe sequence shown In illustration 9.52a progressively slacken the main Internal cylinder head bolts, by halt a turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed by hand. It will be necessary to slightly turn the camshaft in order to remove the bolt located at the rear llywheel end comer as the camshaft lobe restricts access (see illustrations). Note: Fiat recommend that the cylinder head boils should be renewed if they have been used more than 4 times. As It may not be possible to determine how many times the bolts have been used. end considering the stress to which the head bolts are under, it is highly recommended that they are renewed as a matter of course. Retain ihe washers from the old bolts as it is permissible to re-use these unless they show visible signs of distortion or damage. 35 Check that nothing remains connected to the cylinder head, then lift the head away from the cylinder block (see Illustration); seek assistance if possible, as It is a heavy assembly, especially as it is being removed complete with the manifolds and turbochargar. If preferred remove the manifolds first. 36 With the cylinder head on a work surface, unscrew the nuts securing the inlet and
3.33 Removing one of the bolts at the front of the cylinder head 9.34a Unscrewing the cylinder head bolts
ff a tapis not available, make a home-made substitute by cutting a slot (A) down the threads of one of the old cylinder head bolts. After use, the bolt head can be cut off, and the shank can then be used as an alignment dowel to assist cylinder head refitting. Cut a screwdriver slot (B) In the top of the bolt, to allow it to be unscrewed
9.34b Turn the camshaft slightly to remove the rear flywheel end comer boit exhaust manifolds and withdraw them from the studs together with the turbocharger. where applicable. 37 Recover the gasket from the studs. 38 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for overhaul refer to Chapter 2D. Preparation for refitting 39 The mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also dean the piston crowns, Take particular care during the cleaning operations, as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages - this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine's components. Using adhesive tape and paper.
9.42 Checking the piston protrusion with a dial gauge
9.35 Lifting the cylinder head off of the block - note the protectors fitted to the injectors seal the water, oil and bolt holes In the cylinder block/crankcase. 40 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, (hey may be removed carefully with abrasive paper, 41 Clean out the cylinder head bolt drillings using a suitable tap, If a tap Is not available, make a home-made substitute (see Tool Tip). 42 Before refitting the cylinder head th* correct new gasket must be selected, although unless new pistons have been fitted the new cylinder head gasket will be the same thickness as the old one. The following procedure will verify the correct thickness required. Using a dial gauge positioned on the cylinder block, check the protrusion of each piston by turning the crankshalt until the relevant piston Is at TDC (see Illustration). Make a note of the protrusion for oach cylinder then add them up and divide by 4 to give a mean average protrusion, Using the following table select the correct gasket - Ihe notcnes are located on the Iront right-hand end of (he gasket.
Average piston Gasket Number protrusion thickness of notches -0.03 to -0.1 mm 1.65 mm
0.1
to 0.3 mm 1.80 mm 1 0.3 to 0.43 mm 1.95 mm 2
Caution: The cylinder head gasket Is made of special material which hardens while the engine is running. Keep the gasket sealed in Its plastic bag until Just before fitting.

Braking system 9®5
2 Rotate the brake disc by hand and examine the whole of the surface area swept by the brake pads, on both sides ot the disc. Note: /( will bo necessary to remove the front brake pads to allow an adequate inspection of the disc's rear surface; refer to Section 2 tor details. 3 Typically, the disc surface will have a polished appearance and should be free from heavy scoring. Smooth rippling is produced by normal operation and does not indicate excessive wear. Deep scoring and cracks, however, are indications of more serious damage in need of correction. 4 If deep scoring Is discovered, it may be possible to have the disc reground to restore the surface, depending on the extent of the damage. To determine whether this is a feasible course of action, it will be necessary to measure the thickness of the disc, as described later. 5 Check the whole surface of the disc for cracks, particularly around the roadwheel bolt holes. A cracked disc mutt be renewed. 6 A ridge of rust and brake dust at the inner and outer edges of the disc, beyond the pad contact area is normal - this can be scraped tway quite easily. 7 Raised ridges caused by the brake pads eroding the disc material, however, are an indication of excessive wear. If close examination reveals such ridges, the oiicknoss of the disc must be measured, to usess whether it is still fit for use. 8 To measure the thickness of the disc, take readings at several points on the surface using a micrometer. In the area swept by the brake pads (see Illustration). Include any points where the disc has been scored: align me Jaws of the micrometer with the deepest ares of scoring, to get a true indication of the extent of the wear. Compare these ineasurements with the limits listed in the Specifications. If the disc has worn below its minimum thickness, at any point, it must be renewed. 9 If the discs are suspected of causing brake luddor, check the disc runout, using one of
me
following methods: Runout measurement -
DTI
gauge method 10 Refit the four roadwheel bolts, together
w.1h
one M14 plain washer per stud • this will ensure adequate disc to hub contact. Tighten te studs to 5 Nm (4 Ibf ft). 11 Clamp the DTI gauge to a stand and attach the stand, preferably via a magnetic oase. to the strut mounting bracket. Align the jauge so that its pointer rests upon the area of the dtsc swept by the brake pads, on an arc i mm from the outer edge of tho disc (soe illustration). 12 Zero the gauge and slowly rotate the disc trough one revolution, observing tho pointer rcovement. Note the maximum deflection recorded and compare the figure with that >«ted In Specifications.
4.8 Measuring brake disc thickness with a micrometer
Runout measurement -feeler blade method 13 Use the feeler blades to measure the clearance between the disc and a convenient fixed point, such as the disc backplate. Rotate the disc and measure the variation in clearance at several points around the disc, Compare the maximum figure with that listed in Specifications. 14 If the disc runout Is outside of its specified tolerance, first check that the hub Is not worn (see Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or 1B). If the hub is In good condition, remove the disc (as described later in this Section), rotate it through 180° and refit it. This may improve the seating and eradicate Ihe excessive runout. 15 If the runout is still unacceptable, then It may be possible to restore the disc by regrinding; consult your Fiat dealer or a machine shop for a professional opinion - it may prove more economical to purchase a new disc. If the disc cannot be reground, then it must be renewed.
Removal 16 Mark the relationship between the disc and the hub with chalk or a marker pen, to allow correct refitting. 17 To allow the disc to be removed, undo the two bolts securing (he brake caliper mounting bracket to the hub carrier (see illustration 3.7). Withdraw the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly, complete with brake pads, from the hub carrier, and hang it from a rigid point on the suspension, using v/lre or a
4.18a Slacken and remove the disc locating studs ...
4.11 Brake disc runout measurement - DTI gauge method
cable-tie. Oo not allow it to dangle freely as this will strain the brake hose. 18 Slacken and remove the disc locating stud(s). Support the disc as you do this and lift it off as it becomes free (see illustrations). 19 Remove the polished glaze from the surface of the disc with sand/emery paper. Use small, circular motions to avoid producing a directional finish on the surface.
Refitting 20 If a new disc Is being fitted, remove the protective coating from the surface U9ing an appropriate solvent. 21 Locate Ihe disc on ihe hub so that the roadwheel bolt and locating stud holes are all correctly lined up; use the alignment marks made during removal. If the disc is being removed in an attempt to improve seating and hence runout, turn the disc through 180° and then refit it. 22 Refit the locating stud and retaining screw, tightening them securely. 23 Re-check the disc runout, using one of the methods described earlier in this Section. 24 Refil the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly to the hub carrier. Coat the threads of the mounting bolts with locking compound, then tighten them to the specified torque. 25 Depress the brake pedal several times to bnng the brake pads into contact with the disc. 26 Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. 27 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks.
4,18b ... and lift off the disc as It becomes free

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37

Suspension and steering 10*3
2.10 Using a slide hammer to extract the hub 2.11 Wheel bearing components / Hub carrier 2 Wheel bearing 3 Circlip
Owners wishing to attempt the work them-
selves
should proceed as follows. 10 Mount tho hub carrier firmly In a bench vice. Attach a slide hammer to the hub flange and extract the hub. together with the inner bearing race, If it has remained attached to the hub. Unbolt and remove the heat shield
(see
Illustration). 11 Mount the hub carrier horizontally in the rice, then remove tho bearing retaining circlip. Using a suitable length of tubing as a drift, drive Ihe bearing outer race from the carrier (see Illustration). Note that a flange on the outboard side of the carrier means that the bearing can only be driven out in one direction. 12 Support the inner bearing race, if it has remained attached to the hub, then press or drive the hub from the race. Alternatively, pull trie bearing race from the hub using a suitable Iw or three-legged puller. 13 Before Installing the new bearing, thoroughly clean the bearing location in the tub carrier. U Fit the new bearing from the Inboard side the hub: press or drive the bearing into position, applying pressure only to the bearing oiler race. Oo not lubricate the mating surface
ol the
bearing In an attempt to ease installation. 15 Fit the bearing retaining circlip to its 700ve in the hub carrier, then refit the heat
shield and tighten the retaining screw securely. 16 Support the outer face of the hub carrier across the jaws of a bench vice. 17 Carefully press or draw the hub into the bearing, noting that the bearing inner race must be supported during Ihis operation, to prevent It from being separated from the outer race. This can be achieved using a suitable socket, threaded rod, washers and a length of bar (see Illustration). 18 On completion, check that the hub rotates freely in the hub carrier without resistance or roughness.
2.17 Typical method of drawing the hub into the wheel bearing using improvised tools
Refitting 19 Reconnect the outboard end of the drive-shaft to the hub as described In Chapter 8. Ensure that the driveshaft nut is tightened to the correct torque and adequately staked. Ideally, for safety reasons due to the very high torque of the driveshaft nut, carry out final tightening and staking of the nut after refitting the roadwheel and lowering the car to the ground. 20 Reconnect the hub carrier to the lower arm balljoint, then fit a new clamp bolt nut. Tighten tho nut to the specified torque. 21 Engage the hub carrier with the suspension strut, then refit the securing bolts and nuts, tightening them to the specified torque. 22 Reconnect the steering track-rod balljoint to the hub carrier steering arm. Use a new nut and tighten it to the specified torque. 23 Refer to Chapter 9 and refit the brake disc and caliper. 24 Where applicable, fit the ABS wheel sensor into its mounting hole and tighten the securing screw. 25 Refit the roadwheel, and tower the vehicle to the ground. 26 Have the front wheel alignment checked by a Fiat dealer or a tyre specialist at the earliest opportunity.