Off-Road Recovery
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the
edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.
I OFF-ROAD RECOVERY / L5
/ /&
edge ot paved surface
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer
so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement.
You can turn the steering wheel up
to one-quarter turn
until the right front tire contacts
the pavement edge.
Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down
the roadway.
Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a
two-lane highway waits for just the right moment,
accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes
back into the right lane again.
A simple maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane
highway
is a potentially dangerous move, since the
passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming
traffic for several seconds.
A miscalculation, an error in
judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can
suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the
worst of all traffic accidents
-- the head-on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to
crossroads for situations that might affect your passing
patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.
Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.
If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a
turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken
center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass
(providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid
line on your side of the lane or a double solid line,
even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.
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Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering
and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the
tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and
constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.
In
a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving”
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and
lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid,
too
much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer
the way you want the
vehicle to go.
If you start steering quickly enough, your
vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or
braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower
gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may not realize
the surface is slippery until your
vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues
-- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on
the road to make a “mirrored surface”
-- and slow
down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system
(ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need
to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer
to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
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NOTICE:
If you are using car-carrier equipment, you must
pull the Electronic Level Control (ELC) fuse, in
the instrument panel fuse block, before securing
the vehicle.
Damage to the shocks or leveling system
may occur if the Electronic Level Control (ELC)
fuse
is not disabled.
in OFF. The steering wheel should be clamped in a
straight-ahead position, with a clamping device
designed for towing service.
Do not use the vehicle’s
steering column lock for this. For front towing, the
transaxle should be in
PARK (P) and the parking brake
released.
For rear towing, the transaxle should be in
NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake engaged.
NOTICE:
Your vehicle has front-wheel drive; do not have it
towed with the front wheels in contact with the
ground or vehicle damage may occur.
A dolly
must be used under the front wheels when towing
from the rear or the vehicle must be transported
on a flat bed carrier.
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If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially
if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot
off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel
firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle
to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Air Inflator (Option)
Your vehicle may have an air inflator used to bring tires
up to the proper pressure. See “Accessory Inflator
System” in the Index for more details. If
a tire goes
flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place.
Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
/:1 CAUTION-
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you
or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find
a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. lhrn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle,
at the opposite end.
ProCarManuals.com
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transaxle back and
forth, you can destroy your transaxle.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see “Tire Chains” in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle
has traction control,
you should turn your traction
control system
off. (See “Traction Control System” in
the Index.) Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transaxle is in gear.
If that doesn’t get you out
after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
If you
do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in
the Index.
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r
FUSE USAGE CHART
CIRCUIT LH T/LP RH T/LP
SWC
BACKLIGHT
3REAKERS
I HEADLAMP ELEC PRNDL
ABS SOL ELC RR DEFOG RR FOG LP
PWR MIRROR CTSY
LAMP FRT PWR
SCKT
CIGARDLC
Fl FRT HVAC/HI
1 CRUISE I TiSlG I SIR
I PWROTRVENT I RRHVAC I FR&~~$~~~w' I SUNROOF I HVAC/DRL I
FRT WPRMSHR BCM
PRGRM
RR WPA WSHR
MALURADIO/DIC
SWC ACCY
LH HEADLP RH
HEADLP
HAZARD LOW LOW
I PWR LOCK I RR PWR SCKT 1 ABS MOD BATr I LH:ktDLP I RH%DLp
I I DRL I CANVENTSOL I ABSFCS IGN I PCM /
For More information, See Owner's Manual Printed in /
Circuit Breakers
HEADLAMP
PWR WDOIRR
VENT
PWR SEATIPSD
FRT HVAC/HI
BLWR DRL
Control Module,
Headlamp and
I/P
Dimmer Switch
Front Power Windows
6-Way Power Seat(s) and Rear
Side Door Actuator Motor
Blower Motor Hi Speed Relay
in Module
Fuses
swc
BACKLIGHT
ELEC PRNDL
PWR MIRROR Steering Wheel
Radio Control
Switches (Illumination)
Instrument Cluster to
PRNDL Indicators
Power Remote Control
Mirror Switch
CRUISE Cruise Control Module, Switch
and Release Switch
PWR QTR VENT Interior Lamps and
Multifunction Switch
(Power Vent Switch)
FRT WPWSHR Windshield Wipermasher
Motor and Switch
BCM
PWR LOCK
RH TLP
RR FOG LP
CIGARIDLC
TISIG Not
Used
Not Used Cigarette Lighter and Data Link
Connector (DLC)
Turn Signal Switch
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Fuses Fuses
RR HVAC SWC ACCY
HAZARD
RR PWR SCKT
DRL
LH T/LP
RR DEFOG
FRT PWR SCKT
SIR
FRT HVAC LOW/MED BLWR Rear
Blower Motor, Rear
Heater-A/C Control, and
Temperature Door
Actuator (Rear)
Steering Wheel Radio Control
Switches
Turn Signal Switch
Rear Electric Accessory
Plug Housing
DRL Control Module
Not Used
Rear Window Defogger Relay
Front Electric Accessory
Plug Housing
Inflatable Restraint
Control Module
Heater-A/C Control MALL/RADIO/DIC
BCM, Driver Information
Display, Radio and Radio Rear Speaker Amplifier
STOP LAMP
ABS MOD BATT
CAN VENT
SOL
ELC CTSY LAMP
IGN 1
Stoplamp Switch to Stoplamps
Electronic Brake Control
Module/Electronic Brake
Traction Control Module (EBCM/EBTCM)
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP)
Canister Vent Solonoid Valve
Electronic Level Control (ELC)
Air Compressor and ELC
Relay, Trailer Harness
BCM
ALC Sensor, BCM, Electronic
Brake Control Indicator Lamp
Driver Module, Instrument
Panel Cluster, Rear Window
Wipermasher and
Multifunction Switch (Fog
Lamp SwitcWTraction Control
Switch) and Stoplamp/Torque
Converter Clutch (TCC) Switch
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