1998 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA lock

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because
it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about
freezing
(32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there. Whatever
the condition
-- smooth ice, packed
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try
not to break the fragile
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels wil
polish the surface under the tires even more.
, blowing
traction.
.I spin and
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when
you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti-lock braking system, you‘ll
want to begin stopping sooner- than
you would on dry
pavement. See “Anti-Lock“
in the Index.
0 Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear
in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps
of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear.
If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are
on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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I
A CP ""IC\:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside.
CO could overcome you and kill
you. You can't see it or smell it,
so you might not
know it is
in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn't collect there.
Open
a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that's away from the wind. This
will help
keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine. make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for
the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need
a we.11-charged battery to
restart the vehicle. and possibly
for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and
close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncornfortable
from the
cold. BLI~ do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel
as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or
so until help comes.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
The trailer wiring harness is an eight-wire harness
assembly. The harness
is stored under the vehicle, on the
driver's side corner frame crossmember. The harness has
a 30-amp feed wire
with an inline fuse located by the
junction block. See "Fuses and Circuit Breakers"
in the
Index. The harness does not have
a connector and
should be wired by
a qualified electrical technician. The
technician can use the following color code chart when
connecting
the wiring harness to your trailer.
Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or
auxiliary wiring.
Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the
starter solenoid.
Light Green: Back-up lamps.
Brown: Tdillarnps and parking lamps.
Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.
Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.
White (Heavy Gauge): Ground wire.
White (Light Gauge): Auxiliary stoplamp.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape
or strap it to your vehicle's frame rail. Be sure you leave
it loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not
so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness
in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie
it neatly so it won't be damaged.
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/i CAJTION:
To help avoid injury to you or others:
Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is
Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.
Never tow with damaged parts not
Never get under your vehicle after it has
Always use separate safety chains on each
Never use J-hooks. Use T-hooks instead.
being
towed.
fully secured.
been lifted by the tow truck.
side when towing a vehicle.
A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t
adequately secured. This can cause a collision,
serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The
vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or
steel cables before it is transported.
Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps,
canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp
edges underneath the towed vehicle. Always use
T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots. Never use
J-hooks. They will damage drivetrain and
suspension components.
When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key
turned
to the OFF position. The steering wheel should
be clamped in a straight-ahead position with a clamping
device designed for towing service.
Do not use the
vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission
should be in NEUTRAL (N). The parking brake should
be released.
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If your vehicle has no electrical power, the electrical
solenoid lock must be overridden to shift from
PARK
(P) to NEUTRAL (N). Follow these steps:
1. Push the base of the leather shift lever boot forward
with your thumb.
2. Lift the boot and find the white solenoid lever.
m 3. Move the solenoid
lever toward the
driver’s side to
unlock it.
.
4. While holding the solenoid lever in the unlock
position, press the shift lever button and shift into
NEUTRAL (N).
5. Release the solenoid lever and snap the boot back
into place.
Don’t have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels
unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the
drive wheels, be sure not to exceed
35 mph (55 km/h)
and not to travel more than
50 miles (80 km) or your
transmission will be damaged. The drive wheels have to
be supported on
a dolly.
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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
I
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the
cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap
and upper radiator
hose, is no longer hot. Turn the
pressure cap slowly counterclockwise
until it first
stops. (Don't press down while turning the
pressure cap.)
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means
there is still
some pressure left.
p :. I
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push
down
as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially if
you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of
a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have
a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel
firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to
a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change
a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to
a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find
a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. nrn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle, at the opposite end.
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change
a tire.
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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored along the
driver’s rear wall. Your vehicle is also equipped with
work gloves and a plastic ground mat
to assist in the
changing
of a flat tire.
To remove the jack cover,
pull up on the latch(es) on
the cover, Remove the
wheel blocks, jack and
wheel wrench.
The spare tire
is stored under the vehicle.
NOTICE:
Never remove or restow a tire frodto a
stowage position under the vehicle while the
vehicle is supported
by a jack. Always tighten the
tire
fully against the underside of the vehicle
when restowing.
To remove the spare, insert
the chisel end
of the wheel
wrench, on an angle, into the hole
in the rear bumper.
Be sure the chisel end
of the
wheel wrench connects into
the hoist shaft.
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