1998 GMC SAVANA tow

A CAUTION:
I
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Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on me parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after
a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the
wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you
can use a cloth or a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later,
if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt
off.
I CAUTION:
I
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could
fall off, causing
a serious accident.
8. Replace the wheel nuts
with the rounded end
of
the nuts toward the
wheel. Tighten each
wheel nut
by hand until
the wheel
is held against
the hub.
9. Lower the vehicle by rotating the jack handle to the
left. Lower the jack completely.
10. Tighten the nuts
firmly in
a crisscross
sequence
as shown.
0 0 3.
Rotate the wheel
wrench
to the right.
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2. Pull the retaining bar through the center of the
wheel, making sure it is properly attached.
3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle keeping
the cable tight.
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or
Snow
What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is
to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
“rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but
you must use caution.
‘I 1
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire
or other damage. When you’re
stuck, spin the wheels
as little as possible. Don’t
spin the wheels above
35 mph ‘(55 kmh) as shown
on the speedometer.
I NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle
as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see “Tire Chains” in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
If
that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need
to be towed out.
If you do need to be towed out, see
“Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
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Checking Engine Oil
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push
it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need
to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the
right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For
crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications”
in the Index.
I NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so
much oil that the oil level gets above the upper
mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
The engine oil filler cap is located between the coolant
recovery tank and the air cleaner.
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As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your
vehicle. However, you can use
SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going
to be 0” F (- 18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil
container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do
not use
other viscosity oils, such
as SAE 20W-50.
1 NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines
“Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the
recommended oil can result in engine damage
not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area where
the temperature falls
below
-20°F (-29”C), consider using either an
SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both
will provide easier cold starting and better protection
for your engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your dealer is ready to
advise if
you think something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity
maintenance schedule:
0
0
0
0
0
Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
Most trips are through dusty areas.
You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of
your vehicle.
The vehicle
is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every
3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever
occurs first.
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5. Install a new filter element with the folds in the
down position.
Reverse Steps
1 through 4 to replace the air cleaner.
See “Normal Replacement Parts” for the proper filter
to use.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
to determine when to
replace the air filter and crankcase ventilation filter.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
I
Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can
cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner
not only cleans the air,
it stops flame if the engine
backfires.
If it isn’t there, and the engine
backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with
it
off, and be careful working on the engine with
the air cleaner
off.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a
damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get
into your engine, which will damage
it. Always
have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Automatic
Transmission Fluid” in the Diesel Supplement.
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid
level
is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every
50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or
if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of
these conditions:
0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches
90°F (32°C) or higher.
0 In hilly or mountainous terrain.
0 When doing frequent trailer towing.
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Checking Transmission Fluid Cold
A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting
for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used
only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five
minutes if outside temperatures are
50°F (10°C) or
more. If it’s colder than
50°F (IOOC), you may have
to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low
during a cold check, you
must perform a hot check
before adding fluid. This will give you a more
accurate reading
of the fluid level.
Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold
0 Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in
PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through
each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position
the
shift lever in PARK (P).
0 Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting
off the engine, follow these steps:
1. The
transmission dipstick has a red handle and is
located near the center of the engine compartment.
Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe
it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
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5. Lift the lamp as you
rotate it toward the rear
of the vehicle.
6. Squeeze the tab on the side of the sockets while
turning them to the left to remove.
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