1998 FIAT PUNTO ESP

0.4 Introduction
The Fiat Punto range was Introduced in March 1994 with 1106 cc, 1242 cc and 1372 cc petrol engines and a 1698 cc diesel engine. At first, models wero only available in 5-door Hatchback form, however 3-door versions followed in May 19SM and Cabriolet and Automatic versions In June 1994. At the seme lime a lurbo diesel model was launched. Power-ass«sted steering and ABS were offered as options in October 1994, and the 6-speed 55SX and norrrally-asptraled dieset followed in June 1995. In June 1997 a minor facelift was undertaken which Included improvements to the suspension and steering and various cosmetic changes. This facelift also saw the introduction of fie ! 242 cc DOHC 1S-valve engine available In top of the range models.
Ait engines covered in this Manual are fitted with single- or double-overhead •camshaft engines, end all models have fully independent front and rear suspension. The distinguished lines of the bodywork together with tho high level rear lighting have made the Rat Punto a very popular small car.
Provided that regular servicing is earned out In accordance with tho manufacturer's recommendations, the Flat Punto should prove reliable and economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items needing frequent attention are easily accessible.
The Fiat Punto Team
Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:
Authors
Sub-editor Page Make-up Workshop manager Photo Scans
Cover illustration & Une Art
Wiring diagrams

A.K. Legg laemimi
Spencer Drayton
Ian Barnes
Steve Churchill Paul Buckland
Steve Tanswell John Martin
Roger Healing
Matthew Marke
We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car's reliability and preserve its resale value.
Your Fiat Punto Manual
The aim ol this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle, It can do so-ln several ways. It can help you decide what worfc must be done (even should you choose to get It dons by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, It may even be quicker than booking tho car into a garage and going there twice, io leave and collect it. Perhaps mosl important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover Its labour and overheads, The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layoul can be understood, Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' or 'right' are In the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forward.
Acknowledgements Thanks are duo to the Champion Spark Plug Company, who supplied the Illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Oraper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped In the production of this manual. We take great pride In tho accuracy of information given In this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not Inform us. No liability oen be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or Injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Safety first! 0.5
Working on your ear can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning • Beware of burns from the exhau3t system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle. ~ always supplement the ' ' -jack with axle stands, or use ... drive-on i'j ramps. kr Never venture ™ under
a
car
vv/j/ch
Is only supported by a jack. • Take card if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire • Fuel Is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't (et fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of toots). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repainng or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock x ^ ^ ? , • Ignition HT _ " voltage can be ^ dangerous, ~ especially to > people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the f^ ignition system with fT") the engine running or ' J ' J the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous: they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut, • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. « Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream If necessary. Change out of oll-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame {including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found In gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with soch components It is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when cerlam types of synthetic rubber, found In some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc. are exposed to temperatures above 400;C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years, tfit gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steenng wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

A


Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any otfterpart of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wrtstwatch etc. before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system, • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job. or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting toots which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play In or near a vehicle being worked on.

Roadside repairs 0.9
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs Investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.
A
Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids aro poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of 0 fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park It over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
Antifreeze
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline oeposit like this.
Oil from filter
A leak occurring at a wheel Is almost certainly brake fluid.
Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the drivoshafts.
Power steering fluid
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
When ail else falls, you may llnd yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances. OIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: • Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. • Always turn the Ignition key to the ON position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. • Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.
• Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. • Note that greater-then-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. • On models with power steering, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. • The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. • Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. • Only dnve at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.
Towing
• On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply(see Chapter 7B. Section 1). If In doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. • The front towing eye is supplied as part of the tool kit stored in the luggage compart-ment. To fit the eye pnse out the plastic cover from the front or rear bumper using a screwdriver, then screw the eye onto the threaded pin as tightly as possible.

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Warning: To prevent damage to the catalytic converter, e vehicle must not be push'started, or started by towing, when the engine is at operating temperature. Use jump leads (see Jump starting).

o»i4 Weekly checks
Tyre condition and pressure
l( is very important that tyres are In good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre (allure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style • harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will ail produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating' the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing ail four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded In the tread before they penetrate the tyro to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
r
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so (hat its point of penetration is marked. Then Immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage (n the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewails. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the Inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage, Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by •kerbing"1 whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel Is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.
New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will v/ear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is fett only through the steering, then II Is likely that |ust the front wheels need balancing. H, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car. the rear wheels could be out of balance. Whoel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.
-j Tread Depth • visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands {8}, which wiU appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewail (A).
Tyre tread wear patterns
2 Tread Depth * manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
2 Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately alter the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result Tyre pressures are shown on page 0*18.
Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear
Underinflatlon {wear an both sides) Under-lnflatton will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side] Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!
Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyro tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures
It you sometimes have (o inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified tor maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most lyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or 'tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of I he treed which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Lubricants and fluids 0.17
Lubricants and fluids
Engine Petrol Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better (Duckhams QXR Premium Petrol Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Petrol Engine Oil) Diesel Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better Duckhams QXR Premium Diesel Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Diesel Engine Oil) Cooling system Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and soft water (Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant) Manual gearbox Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE80W to API GL4 (Duckhams Hypoid Gear Oil SOW GL-4) Automatic transmission Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans III) Braking system Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake & Clutch Fluid) Power steering Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans Hi)
Choosing your engine oil
Engines need oil. not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to Improve fuel economy. By introducing a simplified and improved range of engine oils. Duckhams has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you lo choose the right oil for your engine.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction Without oil. the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.
• Cooling hot-spots Temperatures Inside the engine can exceed 1000°
C.
The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.
• Cleaning the engine internally Good quality engine oils clean the Inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil niter or flushed out at oil change.
OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE To handle and dispose of used engine oil safety, always: • Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. • Dispose of used oil and empty packs In a responsible manner In an authorised disposal site. tti Call 0800 663366 to find qIqq f £ the one nearest to you. Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.
DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS For the driver who demands a premium quality oil for complete reassurance, we recommend synthetic formula Duckhama QXR Premium Engine Oils. For the driver who requires a straight-forward quality engine oil, we recommend Duckhams Hypergrade Engine Ote.
For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.
^SGCKHAMS

ia«8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
5.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then
bIbo
be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four psds must tie renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground
6 Underbody sealant check
I
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively position the car over an inspection pit. 2 Check the underbody. wheel housings and side sills for rust and/or damage to the under-body sealant. If evident, repair as necessary.
7 Hose and fluid leak check ^
I
1 Visually Inspect the engine joint laces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil (liter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that.
A leak In the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust~coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak
over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by refemng to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips ore In place and In good condition, Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious probioms In the luture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated, Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all 'he cooling system components {hoses. |olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the coolmg system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gaskel with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank Is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deten orated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away Irom the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the fitter neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within tne engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Exhaust system check fe
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure thai all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the Joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often bo traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come Into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings Otherwise separate the joints {if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
9 Driveshaft gaiter check
9.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
1
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then s'owly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of Ihe outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber garters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see Illustration), If any damage or deterioration Is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of (he CV joints themselves by first holding (he driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints. wear In the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut

ia.io Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support}. 4 Remove the nght-hand front wheel. 5 Remove the inner cover from under the right-hand wheeiarch for access to the right-hand side of the engine. 0 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket boll, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the auxiliary drlvebelt(s) can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt: check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear Is visible, the relevant belt should be renewed. 7 If the condition of the belt Is satisfactory, check Ihe drivebeit tension as described below.
Renewal
Alternator drivebeit Note: On certain models with power steering but without air conditioning, it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebeit ffrst, as described below. 8 Where fitted, undo the bolts and remove the belt guard from the alternator. 9 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebeit. 10 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft sensor from Ihe front of the engine (refer to Chapter 4A. Section 5, if necessary). 11 Remove the drivebeit from the engine. 12 When renewing a drivebeit. ensure that the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the two pulleys then swivel the alternator outwaids to take up any slack in the betL Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Power steering pump drivebeit 13 Slacken the bolts securing the power steering pump to the mounting bracket. 14 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting boit until all the tension is removed from the drivebeit. 15 Undo the bolts and remove the pultey guard from the power steering pump then slip the drivebeit off (he pulleys. 18 Ensuring that the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack in the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Air conditioning compressor drivebeit 17 Remove the alternator and power steering pump dnvebelts as described previously. 18 Slacken the bolts securing the compressor to the mounting bracket. 19 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until alt the tension is removed from the drivebeit, then slip the belt off the pulleys. 20 Ensuring lhat the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack In the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below.
15.7 Checking a valve clearance with a feeler blade
Tensioning 21 Correct tensioning of the belt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which Is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause wear in the alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor bearings. Note: Fiat recommend use of their special tensioning tool however the fallowing procedure will set the tension correctly. 22 The belt(s) should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys. To adjust the alternator drivebeit, slightly tighten the adjustment bolt then swivel the alternator outwards until tne beft tension Is correct. Fully tighten the adjustment bolt followed by the pivot bolt then refit the rpm sensor. 23 On models with power steering and/or air conditioning, fit the relevant drivebeit over the pulleys then turn the adjusting bolt until the tension is correct. Secure the adjusting bolt by tightening Ihe locknut, then tighten the remaining mounting bolts. Refit any remaining dnvebelts and all the components removed. 24 Refit the inner cover and wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, then reconnect the battery negative terminal,
14 Clutch adjustment check
Refer to Chapter 8. Section 2.
15.11 Using a modified C-spanner and e screwdriver to remove a shim
15 Valve clearance check ^ and adjustment S
Note: The following procedure Is not applicable to 1242 cc,
16-vatve
engines which utilise self-adjusting hydraulic tappets. 1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear has become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be accurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right* hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front road wheel. 3 Remove all spark plugs as described In Section 19. 4 Remove the camshaft cover as described In Chapter 2A. 5 Each valve clearance must be checked when the high point of the cam lobe is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances In the firing order 1-3-4-2. No
1
cylinder being at the timing bell end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between the heel of the cam and the cam follower shim of the first valve (see illustration). II necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the valve clearance for this particular valve. 8 Tum the engine, check the second valve clearance and record it. 9 Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves, recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for Inlet and exhaust valves differs • see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the engine, the valve sequence is: tnlet 2-4-5-7 Exhaust 7-3-6-$ 11 Where clearances are incorrect, the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam Is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to be depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job, otherwise you will have to make up a forked (ever to locate on the rim of the cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim {see illustration). 12 Once the shim is extracted, establish its thickness and change It for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded

1A.12
Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
18.7 Lift up the cover and remove the filter element (18-va!ve engines) 9 Fit a new air (liter element In position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated 10 Refit the air cloaner cover, engage the rear retainers and secure with the three bolts.
19 Spark plug renewal
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropnate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter. If this type is used and the engine Is In good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals Spark plug cleaning Is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted
19.2a Disconnecting tho HT leads from Iho spark plugs on 8-valve engines ...
19.4 Removing the spark plugs
unless specialised equipment Is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 To remove the plugs first remove the air cleaner assembly (8-vaive engines) or the a»r cleaner, resonator and inlet air duct (16-valve engines) with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. if the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead conneciion may be Iractured (see illustrations) 3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping into the cylinders. 4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration). Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug • If it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As each plug is removed examine 4 as fallows. 5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good Indication of the condition of the engine. If the Insulator nose of the spark plug Is clean and white, with no deposits, this is Indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heal away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, this
19.2b ... and on 16-valve engines
19.9 Ad|ustlng a spark plug electrode gap
indicates that the mixture Is too rich. If the plug is black and oily, then It is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 7 If the Insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture Is correct and it is likely that (he engine Is in good condition. 6 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it Is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 9 To set the gap. measure it with a feeler blade and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug elect/ode until the correct gap l9 achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug I allure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a firm sliding fit (see illustration). 10 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers, 11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean (see Haynes Hint). 12 Remove the rubber hose (If used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench, Refit the remaining spark plugs In the same manner. 13 Connect the HT leads In their correct order, and refit any components removed for access.
It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To, avoid this possibility, fit a short length of Si 16 Inch Internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal Joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug beginto cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the cylinder head