1998 FIAT PUNTO ESP

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.13 Positioning of piston rings (petrol engine) 11 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or a piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, once the majority ot the deposits have been scraped away. 12 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves In the piston, using an old ring. Break the ring in half to do this (be careful not to cut your fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful to remove only the carbon deposits • do not remove any metal, end do not nick or scratch the sides of the ring grooves. 13 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/connecting rod assembly with paraffin or o suitable solvent, and dry thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes In the ring grooves are clear. Fit the rings to their respective grooves meking sure they are positioned the correct way round where applicable (see illustration). 14 If the pistons and cylinder bores are not
7.22 Prising out the gudgeon pin retaining circilps damagea or worn excessively, and if the cylinder block does not need to be rebored. the original pistons can be refitted. Normal piston wear shows up as even vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the top ring In its groove. New piston rings should always be used when the engine is reassembled. 15 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin holes, and at the piston nng lands (between the ring grooves). 16 Look for scoring and scuffing on the ptston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from overheating, end/or abnormal combustion which caused excessively high operating temperatures. The cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. Scorch marks on the sides of the pistons show that blow-by has occurred. A hole in the piston crown, or burned areas at the edge of the piston crown, Indicates that abnormal combustion has been occurring. If any of the above problems exist, the causes must be investigated and corrected, or the
7.26a Piston to connecting rod assembly (petrol engine) 1 Piston grade (A) end directional arrow on piston crown (towards timing belt end) 2 Connecting rod/cap matching numbers 3 Gudgeon pin offset in piston (0.9 to 1.1 mm) Arrow indicates direction of crankshaft rotation
7.26b Piston to connecting rod assembly (diesel engine) 1 Piston crown
damage will occur again. The causes may Include Incorrect Ignition/injection pump timing, or a faulty injector (as applicable). 17 Corrosion of the piston, in the form ol pitting, indicates that coolant has been leaking into the combustion chamber and/or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be corrected, or the problem may persist In the rebuilt engine. 16 Examine each connecting rod carefully for signs of damage, such as cracks around the big-end and small-end bearings. Check that the rod is not bent or distorted, Damage is highly unlikely, unless the engine has been seized or badly overheated. Detailed checking of the connecting rod assembly can only be earned out by an engine repair specialist with the necessary equipment. 19 Although not essential. It is highly recommended that the big-end cap bolts are renewed as a complete set prior lo refitting. 20 On petrol engines piston and/or con-necting rod renewal should be entrusted to an engine repair specialist, who will have the necessary tooling to remove and install the interference fit gudgeon pins. 21 On diesel engines, the gudgeon pins are of the floating type, secured in position by two circlips. On these engines, the pistons and connecting rods can be separated as follows. 22 Using a small fiat-bladed screwdriver, prise out ihe circlips, and push out the gudgeon pin (see illustration). Identify the piston and rod to ensure correct reassembly. Discard the circlips - new ones must be used on refitting. 23 Examine the gudgeon pin and connecting rod small-end bearing bush for signs of wear or damage. Bush renewal should be entrusted to an engine overhaul specialist. 24 The connecting rods themselves should not be In need of renewal, unless seizure or some other major mechanical failure has occurred. Check the alignment of the connecting rods visually, and if the rods are not straight, take ihem to an engine overhaul specialist for a more detailed check. 25 Examine all components, and obtain any new parts as necessary. If new pistons are purchased, they will be supplied complete with gudgeon pins and circlips. 26 On reassembly position the piston on the connecting rod as shown (see Illustrations),
Injection pump location Connecting rod/cap matching numbers 7.28c Piston crown on diesel engines

Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the gudgeon pin. Slide it Into the piston and through the connecting rod small-end. Check that the piston pivots freely on the rod. then secure the gudgeon pin in position with two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is correctly located In Its groove in the piston.
Refitting and big-end bearing running ciearance check 27 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, it Is recommended that the big-end bearing running clearance is checked as follows. Big-end bearing running clearance check 28 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap. 29 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch In the connecting rod and cap. Take care not to touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers. If the onginal bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 30 One method is to refit the big-end bearing cap to Ihe connecting rod, ensuring that they are litted the correct way around, with the bearing shells in place. Wilh the cap retaining bolls correctly tightened, use an internal micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and Ihen subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the big-end beanng running clearance. 31 The second, and more accurate method is to use a product called Plasligauge. Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted then place a strand of Plastlgauge on each (cleaned) crankpin journal. 32 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the bg-end bearing caps, using the marks made or noted on removal to ensure that they are fitted the correct way around. 33 Tighten the beanng cap bolts taking care not to disturb the Plastlgauge or rotate the connecting rod dunng the tightening sequence. 34 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating the connecting rods. Use the scale pnnted on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the big-end bearing running clearance. 35 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be Ihe wrong size (or excessively worn. If the original shells are being re-used). Make sure mat no dirt or oil was trapped between Ihe bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider al one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered.
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.40a The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the timing belt end of the engine (petrol engine) 36 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or some other object which is unlikely to score the beanng surfaces.
Final piston/connecting rod refitting 37 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that alt traces of the protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. 38 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, and piston rings, then lay out each piston/con-necting rod assembly in its respective position. 39 Start with assembly No 1. Position the piston ring gaps 120° apart, then clamp them in position with a piston nng compressor. 40 Insert Ihe piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of cylinder making sure it is Ihe correct way round. On petrol engines, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown is pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine and on diesel engines, ensure that the cloverleaf-shaped cut-out on the piston crown is towards the front (oil filter side) of the cylinder block. Using a block of wood or hammer handle against the piston crown, tap the assembly into the cylinder until the piston crown is Hush with the top of the cylinder (sea illustrations). 41 Ensure that the bearing shell is still correctly Installed. Liberally lubricate the crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, pull the piston/connecting rod assembly down the bore and onto the crankpin.
7.40b Inserting the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore using a hammer handle (diesel englno) 42 Refit the big-end beanng cap, tightening Its retaining bolts finger-tight at first, Note that Ihe faces with the identification marks must match (which means that the bearing shell locating tabs abut each other). 43 Tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting. On diesel engines tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque then angle-tighten them to the specified Stage 2 angle using an angle-measuring gauge, (see illustrations) 44 Once the bearing cap retaining bolts have been correctly tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that il turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected if new components have been fitted, but there should be no signs of binding or tight spots. 45 Refit the remaining three piston/ connecting rod assemblies in the same way. 46 Refit the cylinder head, anti-vibration plate (16-valve engines), oil pump pick-up/filter screen assembly and sump with reference to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C.
8 Crankshaft -removal and inspection 35
Removal 1 Remove the
sump,
oil pump and pick-up tube, and flywheel/driveplate with reference to the relevant Sections of Chapter 2 Parts A, 8 or C. On 16-valve engines, unbolt and remove the anti-vibration plate from the main bearing caps.
7.43a Torque-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolls (diesel engine) 7.43b Angle-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolts (diesel engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.4 Using a dial gauge to check the crankshaft endfloat 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 7. However, If no work fs to be done on the pistons and connecting rods there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft Journals. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the cylinder block and recover the gasket where fitted. 4 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat using a dial gauge. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero Ihe gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check tho endfloat (see Illustration). The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required. 6 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap - on petrol engines measure between the centre main bearing thrust washer and the crankshaft web. and on diesel engines measure between the rear main bearing and tha crankshaft web. 6 Note the markings on the main bearing caps which vary according to type. On 8-valve petrol engines there is one line on Ihe cap nearest the timing belt end, two on the second cap, C on the centre cap, then three and four lines on the remaining caps (soo illustration). On 16-valve petrol engines, the caps are marked one to five with a series of lines (one line for the cap nearest the timing
8.6 Main bearing markings (petrol engine)
belt end, two for tho next cap and so on). On diesel engines the caps are marked one to live In the same way but with notches instead ol lines. Note also that on some diesel engines the cap nearest the timing belt end Is not marked and the notches therefore start with No 2 cap. 7 Loosen and remove the main bearing cop retaining bolts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. On some diesel engines note that the centre main bearing cap botts are longer than the other bolls. 8 Lift the crankshaft Irom the crankcase and remove the upper bearing shells from the crankcase. If the shells are 1o be used again, keep them identified for position. Also remove the thrustwashers from their position either side of the centre main bearing (petrol engines) or rear main bearing (diesel engines) (see illustrations)
Inspection 9 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solvent and allow It to dry. Flush the oil holes thoroughly, to ensure that ihey are not blocked - use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush il necessary. Remove any sharp edges from the edge of the holes which may damage the new bearings when they are installed. 10 Inspect the main searing and crankpin journals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking, scoring or pitting are evident then the crankshaft should be reground by an engineering workshop, and refitted to the engine with underslze bearings.
11 Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of each main bearing journal. Taking a number of measurements on the surface of each journal will reveal if it Is worn unevenly. Differences in diameter measured at 90" intervals Indicate that the journal is out of round. Differences In diameter measured aiong the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again. If wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the |ournal; seek the advice of an engmeenng workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runoul by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft In V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate Ihe runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure Is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm
a»
a rough guido. If the runoul exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered • consult your Flat dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advico. 14 Refer to Section 10 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection.
9 Cylinder block/crankcase - % cleaning and inspection Sk
Cleaning 1 Remove all external components, brackets and electrical switches/sensors from the block Including the rear engine plate, injection pump/oil filter bracket and gasket, Intermediate shaft bracket, oH vapour breather casing, and coolant pump. Also unboit and remove the ol return tube from the crankcase (see illustrations). For complete cleaning, the core plugs should Ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by
8.8a Removing the thrustwashers.. ... and upper bearing shells (diesel engine) 8.8o Thrustwashers located on the centre main bearing (petrol engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
failure, (he cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, Ihe main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers while checking it. 4 Din and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or It may pass through fillers or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left In engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded In the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure Is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which can be the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing materiel is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of Ihe bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring ihe engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the beanngs to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from Ihe steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil Is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly: there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on ft. 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; to do otherwise is false economy.
Selection 11 Main and big-end bearings are available in standard sizes and a range of undersizes to suit reground crankshafts • refer to the Specifications for details. The engine reconditioner will select the correct bearing shells for a machined crankshaft. 12 The running clearances can be checked when the crankshaft is refitted with its new bearings.
11 Engine overhaul -reassembly sequence
1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiariss yourself with the work Involved, and to ensure that ail items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A tube of sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order: a) Crankshaft (Section 12). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (Section 7). c) Oil pump (see Part A, B or C - as applicable). d) Sump (see Pan A, BorC-as applicable). e) Flywheel/driveplate (see Part A, B or C • as applicable). 1) Cylinder head (see Part A B or C - as applicable). g) Coolant pump (see Chapter
3)
h) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and timing belt (See Part A, B or C- as applicable). I) Engine external components, 3 At this stage, ail engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out on a completely clean work surface.
12 Crankshaft- % refitting and main bearing S running clearance check ^
Crankshaft - initial refitting 1 Crankshaft refitting Is the first stage ol engine reassembly following overhaul. At this point, it is assumed that the crankshaft, cylinder block/crankcase and beanngs have been cleaned, inspected and reconditioned or renewed. 2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, level work surface, with the crankcase facing upwards. Where necessary, unbolt the bearing caps and lay them out in order to ensure correct reassembly. If they are still in place, remove the bearing shells from the caps and the crankcase and wipe out the inner surfaces wilh a clean rag - they musl be kept spotlessly clean. 3 Clean the rear surface of the new bearing shells with a rag and fit ihem on Ihe bearing saddles. Ensure that the orientation lugs on the shells engage with the recesses in the saddles and lhat the oil holes are correctly aligned. Do not hammer or otherwise force the bearing shells into place. It Is critically important that the surfaces of the bearings ore kept free from damage and contamination. 4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and the crankshaft journals a final clean with a rag. Check that the oil holes In the crankshaft are free from dirt, as any left here will become embedded In the new bearings when Ihe engine is first started. 5 Carefully lay the crankshaft In the crankcase, taking care not to dislodge the bearing shells (see illustration}.
Main bearing running clearance check 8 When Ihe crankshaft and bearings are refitted, a clearance must exist between them

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.5 Lowering the crankshaft into the crankcase
12.9 Fit tho main bearing caps...
to allow lubricant to circulate. This clearance is impossible to check using feeler blades, however Plastlgauge can be used. This consists of a thin strip of soft plastic that is crushed between the bearing shells and journals when the beanng caps are tightened up. Its width then indicates the size of the clearance gap. 7 Cut off five pieces of Plastlgauge. just shorter than the length of the crankshaft journal. Lay a piece on each journal, in line with its axis (see Illustration). 8 Wipe off the rear surfaces of the new lower half main bearing shells and fit them to the main beanng caps, again ensuring that the locating lugs engage correctly (see illustration). 9 Fit the caps in their correct locations on the bearing saddles, using the manufacturers markings as a guide (see illustration). Ensure lhat Ihey are correctly orientated • the caps should be fitted such that the recesses (or the bearing shell locating lugs are on the same side as those in the bearing saddle. 10 Insert and tighten the bolls until they are
811
correctly torqued (see illustrations). Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate at all whilst ihe Plastlgauge is in place. Progressively unbolt the bearing caps and remove them, taking care not to dislodge the Plastlgauge. 11 The width of the crushed Plastigauge can now be measured, using the scale provided (see illustration). Use the correct scale, as both Imperial and metric are printed. This measurement Indicates the running clearance • compare it with that listed in the Specifications.
21 \ „ 12.7 Lay the Plastigauge on the main bearing journals
t
12.10a ... Insert the bolts...
If tho clearance is outside ihe tolerance, it may be due to dirt or debns trapped under the bearing surface; try cleaning them again and repeat the clearance check. If the results are still unacceptable, re-check Ihe journal diameters and the bearing sizes. Note that if the Plastigauge is thicker at one end. the loumals may be tapered and as such, will require regrinding. 12 When you are satisfied that the clearances are correct, carefully remove the remains of the Plastigauge from the journals and bearings faces. Use a soft, plastic or wooden scraper as anything metallic is likely to damage the surfaces.
Crankshaft • final refitting 13 Lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase. Wipe off the surfaces of the bearings in the crankcase and the bearing caps. Fit the thrust beanngs using grease to hold them in
12.11 Use the special scale card to determine the main bearing running clearance
shell In its cap
12.10b ... and torque-tighten them
position, Ensure they are seated correctly in the machined recesses, with tho oil grooves facing outwards 14 Liberally coat the bearing shells in the crankcase with dean engine oil (see Illustration). 15 Lower the crankshaft into position in the crankcase. 16 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the main bearing caps with clean engine oil. Make sure that the locating lugs on the shells are still engaged with the corresponding recesses in the caps. 17 Fit the main bearing caps in the correct order and orientation. Insert the bearing cap bolts and hand tighten them only. 18 Working from the centre bearing cap outwards, tighten the retaining bolts to their specified torque. On petrol engines, tighten all the bolts to the first stage, then angle-tighten them to the Stage 2 anglo (see illustration)
12.14 Lubricate the main bearing shells before final assembly

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly

A


Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
tf In any doubt as to the procedure fo follow on models with air conditioning, consult a Fiat dealer for advice. Note: This is an involved procedure, and It (s recommended fhat the following Section fs read thoroughly before commencing work. Plenty of time should be allowed to compter the operation. During dismantling, make notes on the routing of all wiring and cables, and the locations of all fixings, to aid reassembly. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Set the heater control to HOT. then drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18. 3 Working in the engine bay, slacken the clips and dotach the healer unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead (see illustration) Recover the rubber grommets. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the entire facia assembly from the vehicle bulkhead. Rest the assembly on the front seats. 5 At this stage, access to the air l nlet/dlstrl but Ion/blending control cables is possible. These can be easily disconnected from their respective control levers and renewed If required. 6 Working from the engine bay. remove the protective plastic caps to expose the heater assembty mounting studs and remove the nuts 7 Label the electrical connections to 1hi» heater assembly, to aid correct refitting later and then unplug them at the connectors 8 Slacken and remove the nuts and lift the healer assembly off its mounting studs. Refitting 9 To refit the assembly, reverse the steps described for removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Make sure that all wiring and cables are muted as noted during dismantling. b) Make sure that dl air ducts are securely reconnected. c) Refit the facia components with reference to Chapter 11. dl On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18.
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
8.5 Dial gauge (1), mounting bracket (2) and setting rod (3) In position on the injection pump (Lucas)
so that Its tip Is In contact with the bracket linkage (see Illustration). Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at the mid-point of its travel and zero the gauge. 6 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation (clockwise) until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC on No 1 piston with ell the sprocket timing marks aligned. 7 Check the reading on the dial gauge which should correspond to the value marked on the pump (there is a tolerance of * 0.04 mm). The timing value may be marked on a plastic disc attached to the front of the pump, or alternatively on a tag attached to Ihe pump control lever (see illustrations). 8 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the front pump mounting nuts/bolt and the raar mounting bolt, then slowly rotate tne pump body until the point is found where the specified reading is obtained on the dial gauge (access to the lower front bolt is gained through the hole in the injection pump sprocket). When the pump Is correctly positioned, tighten both its front mounting nuta/bolt and the rear bolt to their specified torque settings. 9 Withdraw the timing probe slightly, so that it
positioned clear of the pump rotor dowel. Rotato the crankshaft ihrough one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. 10 Slide the timing probe back Into position ensuring that it Is correctly seated against the guide sealing washer surface, not (he upper Hp, then zero the dial gauge. 11 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction ol rotation to the TDC position and recheck the timing measurement 12 If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolt and repeat the operations in paragraphs 6 to 11. 13 When the pump timing is correctly set. remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket and withdraw the timing probe. 14 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the guide and tighten it securely.
8.7a Pump timing value (x) marked on plastic diso (Lucas)
15 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refilling sequence, proceed as described in Section 5. 16 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen tho injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 18 Check and If necessary adjust the Idle speed as described In Chapter 1B.
9 Fuel Injectors -testing, removal and refitting Sk ^

A


Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to Injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to pen ot rate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel Injection specie list.
Testing 1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged uso, and it is reasonable to expect them to need reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles
8.7b Pump timing values marked on label (1) and tag (2) (Lucas)
(100 000 km) or so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration of the Injectors must be left to a specialist. A defective injector which Is causing knocking or smoking can be located without dismantling as follows. 2 Run the engine at a fast idle. Slacken each Injector union In turn, placing rag around the union to catch spilt fuel, and being careful not to exposa the skin to any spray. When tho union on the defective Injector is slackened, the knocking or smoking will stop.
Removal 3 Remove ihe air Inlet ducting from tho front part of the onglne. 4 Carefully clean around the Injectors and injector pipe union nuts. 5 Pull the leak-off pipes from the injectors (see illustration). 6 Unscrow the union nuts securing Ihe injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump. Counterhold the unions on the pump when unscrewing the nuts. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 7 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the pipes from the ln|ectors, If necessary, the Injector pipes may be completely removed-Note carefully the locations of the pipe clamps, for use when refitting. Cover tho onds ot (he injectors, to prevent dirt ingress. 8 Unscrew the injectors using a deep socket or box spanner, and remove Ihem from the cylinder head (see Illustration). 9 Recover the tire seal washers from the cy-linder head and discard them (see illustration).
9.5 Disconnecting the Injector leak-off pipes 9.8 Removing an injector

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
14.6 Nuts securing the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold 14.8 Disconnecting the oil return pipe from tho turbocharger
13 Turbocharger -description and precautions
Description A turbocharger 1$ fitted to TDS, TD and SX models. It increases engine efficiency by raising the pressure In the inlet manifold above atmospheric pressure. Instead of the air simply being sucked Into the cylinders. It Is forced in. Additional fuel is supplied by the injection pump in proportion to the increased air inlet. Energy for the operation of the turbocharger comes from the exhaust gas. The gas flows through a specially-shaped housing (the turbine housing) and In so doing, spins the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is attached lo a shaft, at the end of which is another vaned wheel known as the compressor wheel, The compressor wheel spins in Its own housing, snd compresses the inlet air on the way to the inlet manifold. Boost pressure (the pressure in the Inlet manifold) is limited by a wastegate, which diverts Ihe exhaust gas away from the turbine wheel In response to a pressure-sensitive actuator. A pressure-operaled switch operates a warning light on the instrument panel in the event of excessive boost pressure developing. The turbo shaft is pressure-lubricated by an oil feed pipe from the main oil gallery The shaft floats on a cushion of oil. A drain pipo returns the oil to the sump.
Precautions The turbocharger operates at extremely high speeds and temperatures. Certain precautions must be observed, to avoid premature failure of the turbo, or injury to the operator. Do not operate the turbo with any of its parts exposed, or with any of ils hoses removed. Foreign objects falling onto the rotating vanes could cause excessive
damage, and (if ejected) personal injury. Do not race the engine immediately after start-up, especially if it Is cold. Give the oil a few seconds lo circulate. Always allow the engine to return to idle speed before switching il off - do not blip the throttle and switch off, as this will leave the turbo spinning without lubrication. Allow the engine to idle lor several minutes before switching off after a high-speed run. Observe the recommended intervals for oil and filter changing, and use a reputable oil of the specified quality. Neglect of oil changing, or use of Inferior oil, can cause carbon formation on the turbo shaft, leading to subsequent failure.
14 Turbocharger -removal and refitting
8 Disconnect the oil return pipe from the turbocharger (see Illustration). 9 Unscrew the bolt securing the mounting bracket to the cyfindar block. 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw the turbocharger from the studs in Ihe exhaust manifold. Recover the gasket. II It Is to be refitted, store the turbocharger carefully, and plug its openings to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting 11 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the fallowing points: a) if a new turbocharger Is being fitted, change the engine oil and filter. b) Tighten ail nuts and bolts to the specified torque. c) Before starting the engine, prime the turbo lubrication circuit by disconnecting the stop solenoid iead at the injection pump, and cranking the engine on the starter for three ten-second bursts.
Removal 1 Remove the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 2 Unbolt and remove the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of Ihe engine. 3 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Section 2. 4 Loosen the clips and remove the air outlet duct between tho turbocharger and inlet manifold. Also disconnect the air inlet duct from the turbocharger. 6 Appty the handbrake, then jack up tho front of the vohicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 6 Bend back the locking tabs (if fitted) and unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust downpipe lo the exhaust manifold (see Illustration). Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust system (refer to Part 4D) end remove it from under the vehicle. Recover tne gasket. 7 Unscrew ihe union nut and disconnect the oil supply pipe from the turbocharger. Recover the copper ring and tape over the end of the pipe 10 prevent dust entry.
15 Turbocharger -examination and renovation l
1 With the turbocharger removed, inspect the housing for cracks or other visible damage. 2 Spin the turbine or the compressor wheel, to verify that the shaft is intact and to feel for excessive shake or roughness. Some play is normal, since in use, the shaft is floating on a film of oil. Check that the wheel vanes are undamaged. 3 The wastegate and actuator are Integral, and cannot be checked or renewed separately. Consul! a Flat dealer or other specialist If it is thought that testing or renewal is necessary. 4 If tho exhaust or induction passages are ail* contaminated, Ihe turbo shaft oil seals have probably failed. 6 No DIY repair of the turbo is possible. A new unit may be available on an exchange basis,