1998 DODGE RAM 1500 grease point

SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL
JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY - WITH SNAP RINGS
(1) Tap outside of bearing cap with a drift to
loosen snap ring.
(2) Remove snap rings (1) from both sides of yoke
(Fig. 17).
(3) Position yoke with the grease fitting if
equipped, pointing up.
(4) Position a socket with a inside diameter large
enough to receive the bearing cap, beneath the yoke
on a press.
(5) Place another socket with an outside diameter
smaller than bearing cap on the upper bearing cap
and press (1) the lower cap through the yoke (Fig.
18).
NOTE: If the bearing cap will not pull out of the
yoke by hand after pressing, tap the yoke ear near
the bearing cap to dislodge the cap.
(6) Pull bearing cap of the yoke.
(7) Turn yoke over in the press and straighten the
cross (1). Press the cross until the remaining bearing
cap (2) can be removed (Fig. 19).
CAUTION: If cross or bearing cap are not straight
during removal, the bearing cap will score the walls
of the yoke bore and damage can occur.
Fig. 17 SNAP RING
1 - SNAP RING
Fig. 18 PRESS OUT BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - SOCKET
Fig. 19 PRESS OUT REMAINING BEARING
1 - CROSS
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - 10 PROPELLER SHAFTDR

(2) Position cross (1) in yoke with lube fitting
pointing up, if equipped (Fig. 27).
(3) Place a bearing cap (1) over the cross end (2)
and align cap with yoke bore (Fig. 28).
(4) Press bearing cap into the yoke bore enough to
clear snap ring groove.
(5) Repeat Step 3 and Step 4 to install the oppo-
site bearing cap.
NOTE: If joint is stiff or binding, strike the yoke with
a soft hammer to seat the needle bearings.
(6) Add grease to lube fitting, if equipped.
(7) Install propeller shaft.ASSEMBLY - WITH INJECTED RINGS
NOTE: Replacement joint has internal snap rings.
(1) Place joint in flange with one bearing cap.
(2) Position press (3) with receiver (1) on flange
and bearing cap (2) (Fig. 29).
Fig. 28 BEARING AND CROSS
1 - BEARING CAP
2 - CROSSFig. 29 PRESS ON FLANGE
1 - RECEIVER
2 - BEARING
3 - PRESS
Fig. 30 SNAP RING GROOVE
1 - YOKE
2 - GROOVE
DRPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 13
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(8) Tighten pressure plate bolts to:
²V6 & V8 Engines - 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.)
²V10 & Diesel Engines - 30 N´m (22.5 ft. lbs.)
(9) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Mopar high temperature bear-
ing grease to bore of release bearing, release lever
contact surfaces and release lever pivot stud (Fig. 3).
(10) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to splines of transmission input shaft
and to release bearing slide surface of the transmis-
sion front bearing retainer (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This
can result in grease contamination of the disc.
Fig. 1 PRESSURE PLATE POSITION-TYPICAL
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - ALIGNMENT MARKS
3 - PRESSURE PLATE
Fig. 2 CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC
3 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
Fig. 3 LUBRICATION POINTS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - FORK PIVOT BALL
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING BORE
5 - LUBE POINTS
Fig. 4 INPUT SHAFT LUBRICATION POINTS
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - BEARING RETAINER
3 - SPLINE AND RELEASE BEARING SURFACE
6 - 6 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)

To correct this example (Fig. 11) the shims needed
between the clutch housing and transmission are:
²0.009 in. at the 0.000 corner
²0.012 in. at the ±0.003 corner
²0.013 in. at the ±0.004 corner
After installing the clutch assembly and housing,
tighten the housing bolts nearest the alignment dow-
els first.
NOTE: Shims can be made from shim stock or sim-
ilar materials of the required thickness (Fig. 12).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case (Fig.
13).
(2) Remove starter from clutch housing.
(3) Remove structural dust cover bolts from clutch
housing.
CAUTION: Do not remove structural dust cover
from enigne block. If cover is removed clutch hous-
ing and cover must be aligned with the engine.(4) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous-
ing from the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.
(2) Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels
are in good condition and properly seated.
(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Install structural dust cover if removed (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL
COVER - INSTALLATION).
(5) Align and install clutch housing on engine (Fig.
14). Tighten housing bolts across the top of the hous-
ing first and to the following torque values:
²ªAº bolts 1/4in. diameter - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 3/8in. diameter - 40 N´m (30 ft.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 7/16in. diameter - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªBº bolts for 5.7L 5.9L TD/8.0L engines - 47.5
N´m (40 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.7L engine - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD engine - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L engine - 74.5 N´m (55 ft.lb.)
(6) Install starter to clutch housing.
(7) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(2) Remove spring clip.
Fig. 11 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE CIRCLE (AT RIM OF BORE)
Fig. 12 ALIGNMENT SHIMS
1 - CUT/DRILL BOLT HOLE TO SIZE
2 - SHIM STOCK
3 - MAKE SHIM 1-INCH DIAMETER
Fig. 13 TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH HOUSING-NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
DRCLUTCH 6 - 9
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) Ifnewclutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cyl-
inder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is con-
nected to the slave cylinder, it should never be dis-
connected.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position switch (CPPS) is mounted
on the clutch master cylinder push rod (Fig. 20). The
wiring harness connector is inside of the vehicle
under the left side of the instrument panel.
NOTE: Switch is serviced with clutch master cylin-
der.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed. An input from this switch is also used to
either shut down/prevent operation of the speed con-
trol system when pedal is depressed. The position
switch is an integral part of the clutch master cylin-
der push rod.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
(1) Disconnect switch 2-wire connector attached to
pedal support bracket, under instrument panel to left
of clutch pedal (Fig. 21).(2) Check switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal.
²Pedal Depressed - Continuity
²Pedal Released - No Continuity
(3) If continuity is not present or always present,
replace clutch master cylinder. Switch is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 20 LOCATION, CLUTCH PEDAL
POSITION SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 21 CLUTCH SWITCH TEST POINT
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
DRCLUTCH 6 - 13
LINKAGE (Continued)

removed is under coil, coil must be removed to gain
access to spark plug. Refer to Ignition Coil Removal/
Installation and observe all CAUTIONS and WARN-
INGS.
Before removing or disconnecting any spark plug
cables, note their original position. Remove cables
one-at-a-time. To prevent ignition crossfire, spark
plug cablesMUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing
loom) into their original position. Refer to Spark Plug
Cable Removal for a graphic.
Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil (if coil removal
is necessary), spray compressed air around coil base
at cylinder head cover.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
CLEANING
CLEANING AND ADJUSTMENT
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After clean-
ing, file center electrode flat with a small point file or
jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean spark plugs. Metallic deposits will remain
on spark plug insulator and will cause plug misfire.
Adjust spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool
(Fig. 30).
INSTALLATION
3.7L V-6
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
(4) Install ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
4.7L V-8
CAUTION: The 4.7L V±8 engine is equipped with
copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They
must be replaced with the same type/number spark
plug as the original. If another spark plug is substi-
tuted, pre-ignition will result.
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
Fig. 30 SETTING SPARK PLUG GAP - TYPICAL
1 - GAUGE TOOL
2 - SPARK PLUG
8I - 20 IGNITION CONTROLDR
SPARK PLUG (Continued)