1998 DODGE RAM 1500 maintenance

CLEANING
The following information details the recommended
cleaning procedures for the battery and related com-
ponents. In addition to the maintenance schedules
found in this service manual and the owner's man-
ual, it is recommended that these procedures be per-
formed any time the battery or related components
must be removed for vehicle service.
(1) Clean the battery cable terminal clamps of all
corrosion. Remove any corrosion using a wire brush
or a post and terminal cleaning tool, and a sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda) and warm water cleaning
solution (Fig. 1).
(2) Clean the battery tray and battery holddown
hardware of all corrosion. Remove any corrosion
using a wire brush and a sodium bicarbonate (baking
soda) and warm water cleaning solution. Paint any
exposed bare metal.
(3) If the removed battery is to be reinstalled,
clean the outside of the battery case and the top
cover with a sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and
warm water cleaning solution using a stiff bristle
parts cleaning brush to remove any acid film (Fig. 2).
Rinse the battery with clean water. Ensure that the
cleaning solution does not enter the battery cells
through the vent holes. If the battery is being
replaced, refer to Battery System Specifications for
the factory-installed battery specifications. Confirm
that the replacement battery is the correct size and
has the correct ratings for the vehicle.(4) Clean the battery thermal guard with a sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda) and warm water cleaning
solution using a stiff bristle parts cleaning brush to
remove any acid film.
(5) Clean any corrosion from the battery terminal
posts with a wire brush or a post and terminal
cleaner, and a sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and
warm water cleaning solution (Fig. 3).
INSPECTION
The following information details the recommended
inspection procedures for the battery and related
components. In addition to the maintenance sched-
ules found in this service manual and the owner's
manual, it is recommended that these procedures be
performed any time the battery or related compo-
nents must be removed for vehicle service.
(1) Inspect the battery cable terminal clamps for
damage. Replace any battery cable that has a dam-
aged or deformed terminal clamp.
(2) Inspect the battery tray and battery holddown
hardware for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
(3) Slide the thermal guard off of the battery case
(if equipped). Inspect the battery case for cracks or
other damage that could result in electrolyte leaks.
Also, check the battery terminal posts for looseness.
Batteries with damaged cases or loose terminal posts
must be replaced.
Fig. 1 Clean Battery Cable Terminal Clamp - Typical
1 - TERMINAL BRUSH
2 - BATTERY CABLE
Fig. 2 Clean Battery - Typical
1 - CLEANING BRUSH
2 - WARM WATER AND BAKING SODA SOLUTION
3 - BATTERY
DRBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 5
BATTERY SYSTEM (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
BATTERY SYSTEM SPECIAL TOOLS
BATTERY
DESCRIPTION
A large capacity, low-maintenance storage battery
(Fig. 4) is standard factory-installed equipment on
this model. Models equipped with a diesel engine
must utilize two 12-volt batteries connected in paral-
lel. Male post type terminals made of a soft lead
material protrude from the top of the molded plastic
battery case to provide the means for connecting the
battery to the vehicle electrical system. The battery
positive terminal post is physically larger in diameter
than the negative terminal post to ensure proper bat-
tery connection. The lettersPOSandNEGare also
molded into the top of the battery case adjacent to
their respective positive and negative terminal posts
for identification confirmation. Refer to Battery
Cables for more information on the battery cables
that connect the battery to the vehicle electrical sys-
tem.
The battery is made up of six individual cells that
are connected in series. Each cell contains positively
charged plate groups that are connected with lead
straps to the positive terminal post, and negatively
charged plate groups that are connected with lead
straps to the negative terminal post. Each plate con-
sists of a stiff mesh framework or grid coated with
lead dioxide (positive plate) or sponge lead (negative
plate). Insulators or plate separators made of a non-
conductive material are inserted between the positive
and negative plates to prevent them from contacting
or shorting against one another. These dissimilar
metal plates are submerged in a sulfuric acid and
water solution called an electrolyte.
The factory-installed battery has a built-in test
indicator (hydrometer). The color visible in the sight
glass of the indicator will reveal the battery condi-
tion. Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper
built-in indicator test procedures.The factory-in-
stalled low-maintenance battery has non-re-
movable battery cell caps.Water cannot be added
to this battery. The battery is not sealed and has
vent holes in the cell caps. The chemical composition
of the metal coated plates within the low-mainte-
nance battery reduces battery gassing and water
loss, at normal charge and discharge rates. There-
fore, the battery should not require additional water
in normal service. Rapid loss of electrolyte can be
caused by an overcharging condition.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BATTERY
The battery must be completely charged and the
terminals should be properly cleaned and inspected
before diagnostic procedures are performed. Refer to
Battery System Cleaning for the proper cleaning pro-
cedures, and Battery System Inspection for the
proper battery inspection procedures. Refer to Stan-
dard Procedures for the proper battery charging pro-
cedures.
Micro 420 Battery Tester
Fig. 4 Low-Maintenance Battery - Typical
1 - POSITIVE POST
2 - VENT
3 - CELL CAP
4 - TEST INDICATOR (IF EQUIPPED)
5 - CELL CAP
6 - VENT
7 - NEGATIVE POST
8 - GREEN BALL
9 - ELECTROLYTE LEVEL
10 - PLATE GROUPS
11 - LOW-MAINTENANCE BATTERY
DRBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 7
BATTERY SYSTEM (Continued)

BATTERY CHARGING TIME TABLE
Charging
Amperage5 Amps10
Amps20 Amps
Open Circuit
VoltageHours Charging @ 21É C (70É
F)
12.25 to 12.49 6 hours 3 hours 1.5
hours
12.00 to 12.24 10 hours 5 hours 2.5
hours
10.00 to 11.99 14 hours 7 hours 3.5
hours
Below 10.00 18 hours 9 hours 4.5
hours
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BUILT-IN
INDICATOR TEST
If equipped, an indicator (hydrometer) built into
the top of the battery case provides visual informa-
tion for battery testing (Fig. 6). Like a hydrometer,
the built-in indicator measures the specific gravity of
the battery electrolyte. The specific gravity of the
electrolyte reveals the battery state-of-charge; how-
ever, it will not reveal the cranking capacity of the
battery. A load test must be performed to determine
the battery cranking capacity. Refer to Standard Pro-
cedures for the proper battery load test procedures.
Before testing, visually inspect the battery for any
damage (a cracked case or cover, loose posts, etc.)
that would cause the battery to be faulty. In order to
obtain correct indications from the built-in indicator,
it is important that the battery be level and have a
clean sight glass. Additional light may be required to
view the indicator.Do not use open flame as a
source of additional light.To read the built-in indicator, look into the sight
glass and note the color of the indication (Fig. 7). The
battery condition that each color indicates is
described in the following list:
²Green- Indicates 75% to 100% battery state-of-
charge. The battery is adequately charged for further
testing or return to service. If the starter will not
crank for a minimum of fifteen seconds with a fully-
charged battery, the battery must be load tested.
Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper battery
load test procedures.
²Black or Dark- Indicates 0% to 75% battery
state-of-charge. The battery is inadequately charged
and must be charged until a green indication is visi-
ble in the sight glass (12.4 volts or more), before the
battery is tested further or returned to service. Refer
to Standard Procedures for the proper battery charg-
ing procedures. Also refer to Diagnosis and Testing
for more information on the possible causes of the
discharged battery condition.
²Clear or Bright- Indicates a low battery elec-
trolyte level. The electrolyte level in the battery is
below the built-in indicator. A maintenance-free bat-
tery with non-removable cell caps must be replaced if
the electrolyte level is low. Water must be added to a
low-maintenance battery with removable cell caps
before it is charged. Refer to Standard Procedures for
the proper battery filling procedures. A low electro-
lyte level may be caused by an overcharging condi-
tion. Refer to Charging System for the proper
charging system diagnosis and testing procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - OPEN-CIRCUIT
VOLTAGE TEST
A battery open-circuit voltage (no load) test will
show the approximate state-of-charge of a battery.
This test can be used in place of the hydrometer test
when a hydrometer is not available, or for mainte-
nance-free batteries with non-removable cell caps.
Before proceeding with this test, completely charge
the battery (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY
SYSTEM/BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 6 Built-In Indicator
1 - SIGHT GLASS
2 - BATTERY TOP
3 - GREEN BALL
4 - PLASTIC ROD
Fig. 7 Built-In Indicator Sight Glass Chart
8F - 10 BATTERY SYSTEMDR
BATTERY (Continued)

SPARK PLUG
DESCRIPTION
Resistor type spark plugs are used on all engines.
Sixteen spark plugs (2 per cylinder) are used with
5.7L V-8 engines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPARK PLUG
CONDITIONS
To prevent possible pre-ignition and/or mechanical
engine damage, the correct type/heat range/number
spark plug must be used.
Always use the recommended torque when tighten-
ing spark plugs. Incorrect torque can distort the
spark plug and change plug gap. It can also pull the
plug threads and do possible damage to both the
spark plug and the cylinder head.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. A sin-
gle plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates
that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
the Lubrication and Maintenance section.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned
and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil
fouled.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean the spark plugs. Metallic deposits will
remain on the spark plug insulator and will cause
plug misfire.
Spark plug resistance values range from 6,000 to
20,000 ohms (when checked with at least a 1000 volt
spark plug tester).Do not use an ohmmeter to
check the resistance values of the spark plugs.
Inaccurate readings will result.
NORMAL OPERATING
The few deposits present on the spark plug will
probably be light tan or slightly gray in color. This is
evident with most grades of commercial gasoline
(Fig. 23). There will not be evidence of electrode
burning. Gap growth will not average more than
approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 3200 km (2000
miles) of operation. Spark plugs that have normal
wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes
filed, have the gap set and then be installed.Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United
States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT)
for unleaded fuel. During combustion, fuel with MMT
causes the entire tip of the spark plug to be coated
with a rust colored deposit. This rust color can be
misdiagnosed as being caused by coolant in the com-
bustion chamber. Spark plug performance may be
affected by MMT deposits.
COLD FOULING/CARBON FOULING
Cold fouling is sometimes referred to as carbon
fouling. The deposits that cause cold fouling are basi-
cally carbon (Fig. 23). A dry, black deposit on one or
two plugs in a set may be caused by sticking valves
or defective spark plug cables. Cold (carbon) fouling
of the entire set of spark plugs may be caused by a
clogged air cleaner element or repeated short operat-
ing times (short trips).
WET FOULING OR GAS FOULING
A spark plug coated with excessive wet fuel or oil
is wet fouled. In older engines, worn piston rings,
leaking valve guide seals or excessive cylinder wear
can cause wet fouling. In new or recently overhauled
engines, wet fouling may occur before break-in (nor-
mal oil control) is achieved. This condition can usu-
ally be resolved by cleaning and reinstalling the
fouled plugs.
OIL OR ASH ENCRUSTED
If one or more spark plugs are oil or oil ash
encrusted (Fig. 24), evaluate engine condition for the
cause of oil entry into that particular combustion
chamber.
Fig. 23 NORMAL OPERATION AND COLD (CARBON)
FOULING
1 - NORMAL
2 - DRY BLACK DEPOSITS
3 - COLD (CARBON) FOULING
DRIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 17

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. 6. Refer to engine timing in this
section.
7. Dirt or water in fuel system. 7. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
8.Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 8.Repair or replace as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or crank sensor 9. Refer to Ignition system.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank position sensor 2. Replace crank position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9 - 4 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Worn rocker arms. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn lash adjusters 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn valve guides. 7. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
8. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.8. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.5. Service or replace crankshaft.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.7. Tighten to correct torque
9 - 6 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (Fig. 88) is made of a compos-
ite material and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long
runners which maximizes low end torque. The intake
manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of
six individual press in place port gaskets to prevent
leaks. The throttle body attaches directly to the
intake manifold. Eight studs and two bolts are used
to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Fig. 88 Intake Manifold
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
3 - INTAKE PORT GASKETS
9 - 72 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
OIL (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Worn rocker arms. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn lash adjusters 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn valve guides. 7. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
8. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.8. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.5. Service or replace crankshaft.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.7. Tighten to correct torque
9 - 92 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)