1998 DODGE RAM 1500 ECU

(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
16). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.
(6) Install transmission and transfer case.(7) Check clutch master cylinder fluid level.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Fig. 14 CLUTCH HOUSING - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC/PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
Fig. 15 CLUTCH RELEASE COMPONENTS
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 16 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
6 - 10 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 17). Drive bearing into place with the letter side
of the bearing facing the transmission. Bearing
should be flush with edge of bearing bore.
CAUTION: Do not allow bearing to become cocked
and do not recess bearing.
(3) Install clutch disc, pressure plate and trans-
mission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick dis-
connect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.(5) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 19).
(8) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(9) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reser-
voir is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.
(11) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehi-
cle engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
Fig. 17 PILOT BEARING
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
Fig. 18 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 19 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - INTERLOCK CONNECTOR
3 - ROD PIN
6 - 12 CLUTCHDR
PILOT BEARING (Continued)

(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) Ifnewclutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cyl-
inder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is con-
nected to the slave cylinder, it should never be dis-
connected.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position switch (CPPS) is mounted
on the clutch master cylinder push rod (Fig. 20). The
wiring harness connector is inside of the vehicle
under the left side of the instrument panel.
NOTE: Switch is serviced with clutch master cylin-
der.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed. An input from this switch is also used to
either shut down/prevent operation of the speed con-
trol system when pedal is depressed. The position
switch is an integral part of the clutch master cylin-
der push rod.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
(1) Disconnect switch 2-wire connector attached to
pedal support bracket, under instrument panel to left
of clutch pedal (Fig. 21).(2) Check switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal.
²Pedal Depressed - Continuity
²Pedal Released - No Continuity
(3) If continuity is not present or always present,
replace clutch master cylinder. Switch is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 20 LOCATION, CLUTCH PEDAL
POSITION SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 21 CLUTCH SWITCH TEST POINT
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
DRCLUTCH 6 - 13
LINKAGE (Continued)

OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing
the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator
where the cooling fins in the radiator transfers the
heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold
weather the ethylene-glycol or propylene-glycol cool-
ant prevents water present in the cooling system
from freezing within temperatures indicated by mix-
ture ratio of coolant to water.
COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER- GAS ENGINES
DESCRIPTION
The coolant reserve/overflow tank is mounted on
top of the fan shroud, and is made of high tempera-
ture plastic (Fig. 1).
OPERATION
The coolant reserve/overflow system works in con-
junction with the radiator pressure cap. It utilizes
thermal expansion and contraction of coolant to keep
coolant free of trapped air. It provides a volume for
expansion and contraction of coolant. It also provides
a convenient and safe method for checking coolant
level and adjusting level at atmospheric pressure.
This is done without removing the radiator pressure
cap. The system also provides some reserve coolantto the radiator to cover minor leaks and evaporation
or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-
ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and
returned to a proper level in the radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove recovery hose from radiator.
(2) Remove the coolant container to fan shroud
mounting bolt.
(3) Tilt the container backward towards the engine
to disengage the mounting pin locking features and
lift the container away from the fan shroud (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the coolant container mounting pins into
the slots on the fan shroud and push the container
onto the fan shroud.
(2) Secure the container to the fan shroud with the
bolt. Tighten to 8.5N´m (75 in-lbs).
NOTE: Ensure that the locking feature on the
mounting pins has engaged.
(3) Connect the recovery hose to the radiator (Fig.
1).
RADIATOR FAN - GAS
ENGINES
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Remove coolant reserve/overflow container from
fan shroud and lay aside.Do Notdisconnect the
hoses or drain coolant from the container.
(3) The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assem-
bly is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub
shaft (Fig. 3). Remove the fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly from the water pump by turning the
mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from the
front. Threads on the viscous fan drive areRIGHT-
HAND.A 36 MM Fan Wrench should be used to pre-
vent pulley from rotating (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Coolant Recovery Bottle - Gas Engine
1 - SCREW
2 - COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 - RADIATOR/RADIATOR CAP
4 - FAN SHROUD
DRENGINE 7 - 33
COOLANT (Continued)

(4)Do Notattempt to remove the fan/viscous fan
drive assembly from the vehicle at this time.
(5)Do Notunbolt the fan blade assembly (Fig. 3)
from viscous fan drive at this time.
(6) Remove the fan shroud-to-radiator mounting
bolts.
(7) Pull the lower shroud mounts out of the radia-
tor tank clips.
(8) Remove the fan shroud and fan blade/viscous
fan drive assembly as a complete unit from vehicle.
(9) After removing the fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly,do notplace the viscous fan drive in a
horizontal position. If stored horizontally, silicone
fluid in the viscous fan drive could drain into its
bearing assembly and contaminate lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not remove water pump pulley-to-wa-
ter pump bolts. This pulley is under spring tension.
(10) Remove four bolts securing fan blade assem-
bly to viscous fan drive (Fig. 3).
CAUTION: Some engines equipped with serpentine
drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous
fan drives. They are marked with the word
REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of
the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in
engine overheating.
CLEANING
Clean the fan blades using a mild soap and water.
Do not use an abrasive to clean the blades.
INSPECTION
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BEND OR
STRAIGHTEN FAN BLADES IF FAN IS NOT WITHIN
SPECIFICATIONS.
CAUTION: If fan blade assembly is replaced
because of mechanical damage, water pump and
viscous fan drive should also be inspected. These
components could have been damaged due to
excessive vibration.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install fan blade assembly to the viscous fan
drive. Tighten the bolts (Fig. 3) to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Position the fan shroud and the fan blade/vis-
cous fan drive assembly to the vehicle as a complete
unit.
(3) Install the fan shroud.
Fig. 2 Using Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER
PINS 8346
2-FAN
Fig. 3 Fan Blade/Viscous Fan Drive - Gas Engines -
Typical
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
5 - Bolts (4)
7 - 34 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR FAN - GAS ENGINES (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install fan blade assembly to electrically con-
trolled viscous fan drive. Tighten mounting bolts to
24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position the fan blade/viscous fan drive to the
vehicle as an assembly.
(3) Install the viscous fan drive assembly onto fan
pulley hub shaft (Fig. 4). Tighten mounting nut to
115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install upper fan shroud. Make sure the upper
shroud locks into the tabs on the lower radiator.
(5) Install two upper shroud mounting bolts.
Tighten to 11.8 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Position the electronically controlled viscous
fan drive wiring into the channel in the upper fan
shroud (Fig. 5). Make sure the wiring is not pinched.
(7) Install the lower fan shroud into position and
verify the two locking tabs have seated.
(8) Install two push pin fasteners to lock lower fan
shroud to the main assembly.
NOTE: Verify that the fan drive electrical wire does
not interfere with fan blade travel when the fan
blade is spun by hand.
(9) Connect the wiring harness connector and
install the harness bracket to the upper radiator
shroud.(10) Install the coolant recovery container (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER - INSTALLATION).
(11) Connect the battery negative cables.
NOTE:
Viscous Fan Drive Fluid Pump Out Requirement:
After installing a new viscous fan drive, bring the
engine speed up to approximately 2000 rpm and
hold for approximately two minutes. This will
ensure proper fluid distribution within the drive.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available with
all models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The cord is attached to an engine compartment com-
ponent with tie-straps. The heater warms the engine
providing easier engine starting and faster warm-up
in low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole of the engine cylinder block in place of a freeze
plug with the heating element immersed in engine
coolant. The 3.7L/4.7L gas powered engines have the
block heater located to the rear on the right side of
the engine (Fig. 6).
OPERATION
The heater warms the engine coolant providing
easier engine starting and faster warm-up in low
temperatures. Connecting the power cord to a
grounded 110-120 volt AC electrical outlet with a
grounded three wire extension cord provides the elec-
tricity needed to heat the element.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If the unit does not operate, possible causes can be
either the power cord or the heater element. Test the
power cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or
110-volt test light. Test heater element continuity
with an ohmmeter or a 12-volt test light.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retainer clips and away from any
components that may cause abrasion or damage,
such as linkages, exhaust components, etc.
Fig. 5 Electronically Controlled Viscous Fan Drive
Wiring
1 - UPPER SHROUD
2 - WIRING
3 - GROMMET
7 - 36 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR FAN - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain the coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the power cord from the heater by
unplugging (Fig. 7).
(4) Loosen (but do not completely remove) the
screw at center of block heater (Fig. 7).
(5) Remove the block heater by carefully prying
from side-to-side. Note the direction of the heating
element coil (up or down). The element coil must be
installed correctly to prevent damage.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the block heater hole.
(2) Install the new O-ring seal(s) to heater.
(3) Insert the block heater into cylinder block and
position the element properly.
(4) With the heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(5) Fill the cooling system with the recommended
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check the block heater for leaks.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L
DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available on all
models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The heater is mounted in a threaded hole of the
engine cylinder block with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant. The cord is attached to
an engine compartment component with tie-straps.
The 5.9L diesel engine has the block heater located
on the right side of the engine below the exhaust
manifold next to the oil cooler (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Engine Block Heater - 3.7L/4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 7 Engine Block Heater
1 - FREEZE PLUG HOLE
2 - BLOCK HEATER
3 - SCREW
4 - POWER CORD (120V AC)
5 - HEATING COIL
6 - OIL FILTER
DRENGINE 7 - 37
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)