1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Cylinder

(6) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
(7) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(8) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(9) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
(10) Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
install the valve stem seal. Make sure the seal is
fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of
the seal is intact.
(2) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.
47).
(3) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the spring and install the two valve
spring retainer halves.(4) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
(5) Install the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
(6) Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and
rocker arms (Fig. 46).
(7) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve stem seals are made of rubber and incor-
porate an integral steel valve spring seat. The inte-
gral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication
control to the valve stems.
Fig. 46 Rocker ArmÐRemoval
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
Fig. 47 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 127
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD
BEARING FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Fig. 50). Check the bearings for
normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and
pitting (Fig. 51). Replace any bearing that shows
abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 52) to install the rod and pis-
ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
Fig. 49 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
Fig. 50 Locking Tab Inspection
1 - ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS
NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT
Fig. 51 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or Damaged Crankshaft Journal
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 129
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

CORE PLUGS
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw
driver and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the
cup plug (Fig. 55)
(3) Using a suitable pair of pliers, grasp the core
plug and remove.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Thoroughly clean core plug bore, remove all
of the old sealer.
(1) Coat the edges of the engine core plug and the
core plug bore with Mopar Gasket Maker, or equiva-
lent.
NOTE: It is not necessary to wait for the sealant to
cure on the core plugs. The cooling system can be
filled and the vehicle returned to service immedi-
ately.
(2) Using proper plug driver, drive core plug into
the core plug bore. The sharp edge of the core plug
should be at least 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead
in chamfer.
(3) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron.
The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design
with eight counterweights for balancing purposes.
The crankshaft is supported by five select fit main
bearings with the number three serving as the thrust
washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft
are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication.
The number eight counterweight has provisions for
crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting.
The select fit main bearing markings are located on
the rear side of the target wheel. The crankshaft oil
seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is
retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal
is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block
and the bedplate assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the engine oil pump.(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the three stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
Fig. 55 Engine Core Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 131

NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are on both the
left and right sides, only the left side is shown.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 56) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft target wheel.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bear-
ing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blue-
ing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may
be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the
cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston
and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder
block main bearing bores show damage the engine
must be replaced.
(1) If required, remove the main bearing halves
from the cylinder block and bedplate.(2) Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block
sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all
oil and sealant residue.
(3) Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for
cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition
exists the engine must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scor-
ing, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition
exist replace the thrust washer.
(5) Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for
splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces.
Replace gasket as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for proper
bearing selections.
(1) Lubricate upper main bearing halves with
clean engine oil.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not
to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
NOTE: Apply sealant to the target wheel retaining
screws prior to installation.
(2) Install the crankshaft target wheel. Torque the
mounting screws to 15 N´m (12 ft. lbs.).
(3) Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers (Fig. 57).
Fig. 56 Bedplate Pry Point Location
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - BEDPLATE
3 - PRY POINT
Fig. 57 Crankshaft Thrust Washer Installation
1 - CRANKSHAFT THRUST WASHER
9 - 132 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mateing
surface must be coated with sealant prior to instal-
lation. Failure to do so will cause severe oil leaks.
NOTE: The installation time to install the bedplate
after the sealant has been applied is critical.
NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder
block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or
other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or
oil leaks.
(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) (Fig. 58) bead of
MopartGen II Silicone Rubber Adhesive sealant to
the cylinder block-to-bedplate mating surface as
shown (Fig. 59).(6) Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals
with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto
the cylinder block.
NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with
clean engine oil prior to installation.
(7) Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making
sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location,
Torque the bolts in the sequence shown (Fig. 60).
²Tighten boltsA± Lto 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
²Tighten bolts1±10to 2.8 N´m (25 in. lbs.)
²Turn bolts1±10an additional 90É.
²Tighten boltsA1± A6to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
(8) Measure crankshaft end play. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Install the connecting rods and measure side
clearance. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 58 Cutting Aplicator to Achieve 2.5mm (0.100
in.) Bead
1 - CUT HERE
Fig. 59 Cylinder Block-to-Bedplate Sealent Bead
Location
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - SEALANT BEAD LOCATION
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 133
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

(10) Position the oil pan gasket/windage tray,
using a new o-ring, install the oil pickup tube.
Torque the bolt to 28N´n (20 ft. lbs.) torque the nuts
to 28N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install the oil pan. Torque the retaining bolts
to 15 N´m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig.
61).
(12) Install the engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION).CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARING - FITTING
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER
(CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal
with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90É
apart at each end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004
inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.002
inch). Compare the measured diameter with the jour-
nal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting
Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified
bearing-to-journal clearance.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
The main bearings are ªselect fitº to achieve proper
oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crank-
shaft position sensor target wheel has grade identifi-
cation marks stamped into it (Fig. 62). These marks
are read from left to right, corresponding with jour-
Fig. 60 Bedplate Tightening Sequence
1 - BEDPLATE2 - CYLINDER BLOCK
Fig. 61 Oil Pan Tightening Sequence
9 - 134 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 67), remove the
crankshaft rear oil seal.
Fig. 67 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 137