1998 DODGE RAM 1500 transmission

(6) Remove the viscous fan/drive (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the upper crossmember and top core
support.
NOTE: It is not necessary to drain A/C system for
engine removal.
(9) Remove the A/C compressor with the lines
attached. Secure compressor out of the way.
(10) Remove generator assembly (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR -
REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the intake manifold and IAFM as an
assembly(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/IN-
TAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(12) Disconnect the heater hoses.
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect P/S hoses
from pump, for P/S pump removal.
(13) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.
(14) Disconnect the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(15) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist and
drain the engine oil.
(16) Remove engine front mount thru-bolt nuts.
(17) Remove right side axle retaining bolts.
(18) Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines
from their retainers at the oil pan bolts.
(19) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifolds.
(20) Disconnect the starter wires. Remove starter
motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(21) Remove the structural dust cover and trans-
mission inspection cover,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOVAL).
(22) Remove drive plate to converter bolts (Auto-
matic transmission equipped vehicles).
(23) Remove transmission bell housing to engine
block bolts.
(24) Lower the vehicle.
(25) Install engine lift fixture, special tool # 8984.
(26) Separate engine from transmission, remove
engine from vehicle, and install engine assembly on a
repair stand.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install engine lift fixture Special tool # 8984.
(2) Position the engine in the engine compartment.
(3) Lower engine into compartment and align
engine with transmission:²Manual Transmission: Align clutch disc assem-
bly (if disturbed). Install transmission input shaft
into clutch disc while mating engine and transmis-
sion surfaces. Install two transmission to engine
block mounting bolts finger tight.
²Automatic Transmission: Mate engine and trans-
mission and install two transmission to engine block
mounting bolts finger tight.
(4) Position the thru-bolt into the support cushion
brackets.
(5) Lower engine assembly until engine mount
through bolts rest in mount perches.
(6) Install remaining transmission to engine block
mounting bolts and tighten.
(7) Tighten engine mount through bolts.
(8) Install drive plate to torque converter bolts.
(Automatic transmission models)
(9) Install the structural dust cover and transmis-
sion dust cover,(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the starter and connect the starter
wires (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install exhaust pipe to manifold.
(12) Lower the vehicle.
(13) Remove engine lift fixture, special tool # 8984.
(14) Connect the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(15) Reinstall the power steering pump.
(16) Connect the heater hoses.
(17) Install the intake manifold.
(18) Using a new gasket, install throttle body
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - INSTALLATION).
(19) Install the generator and wire connections
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GENERA-
TOR - INSTALLATION).
(20) Install a/c compressor and lines (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION).
(21) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(22) Install upper radiator support crossmember.
(23) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(24) Connect the radiator lower hose.
(25) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to
the radiator.
(26) Install the fan shroud.
(27) Install the fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(28) Connect the radiator upper hose.
(29) Install the washer bottle.
(30) Connect the transmission cooler lines.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 191
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)

DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
GeneratorÐMounting Bolt 55 40 Ð
Intake ManifoldÐBolts Refer to Procedure
Lifter Guide Holder 12 Ð 106
Oil Pan Bolts 12 - 105
Oil Dipstick Tube 12 Ð 105
Oil PanÐDrain Plug 34 25 Ð
Oil PumpÐAttaching Bolts 28 Ð 250
Oil Pump Pickup Tube ± Bolt
and Nut28 Ð 250
Rear Seal Retainer Attaching
Bolts15 Ð 132
Rear Insulator to BracketÐ 68 50 Ð
Through-Bolt (2WD)
Rear Insulator to
Crossmember41 30 Ð
Support BracketÐNut (2WD)
Rear Insulator to
CrossmemberÐ68 50 Ð
Nuts (4WD)
Rear Insulator to
TransmissionÐ68 50 Ð
Bolts (4WD)
Rear Insulator BracketÐBolts 68 50 Ð
(4WD Automatic)
Rear Support Bracket to 41 30 Ð
Crossmember FlangeÐNuts
Rear Support Plate to
Transfer41 30 Ð
CaseÐBolts
Rocker ArmÐBolts 22 Ð 195
Spark Plugs Ð Ð Ð
Thermostat HousingÐBolts 28 Ð 250
Throttle BodyÐBolts 12 Ð 105
Transfer Case to Insulator 204 105 Ð
Mounting PlateÐNuts
Transmission Support
BracketÐ68 50 Ð
Bolts (2WD)
Vibration DamperÐBolt 176 129 Ð
Water Pump to Timing Chain 28 Ð 250
Case CoverÐBoltsSPECIAL TOOLS
5.7L ENGINE
CRANKSHAFT DAMPER REMOVER INSERT - 8513-A
Bloc±Chek±Kit C-3685±A
Bore Size Indicator C-119
Puller 8454
Crankshaft Damper Installer 8512
9 - 196 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506, remove the crankshaft
rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The rear seal must be installed dry for
proper operation. Do not lubricate the seal lip or
outer edge.
(1) Position the plastic seal guide onto the crank-
shaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil
seal onto the guide.
(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle, with a
hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to tap on
the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 209

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

(3) Using Special Tool 8512±A, press damper onto
crankshaft.
(4) Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to
176 N´m (129 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fas-
teners to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.).
(7) Install radiator upper hose.
(8) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(9) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Connect negative cable to battery.
STRUCTURAL COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu-
minum and joins the lower half of the transmission
bell housing to the engine.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power-
train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
CAUTION: On manual transmission vehicles, the
7/16 inch engine block to clutch housing bolts must
be loosened before removal of the structural dust
cover. Clutch housing distortion will occur if this
procedure is not followed.
(2) Remove the bolts retaining structural cover.
(3) Remove the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-en-
gine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do
NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bellhousing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.
(4) Torque the (4)structural dust cover bolts that
go into the transmission to 6-11 N´m (50-100 in.lbs.).
(5) Torque the (4) structural dust cover bolts that
go into the engine block to 6-11 N´m (50-100 in.lbs.).
(6) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 19) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 19) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
(7) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust
manifold.
(8) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe
retaining bolts to 20±26 N´m (15±20 ft. lbs.).
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
CAUTION: The 7/16 inch engine block to clutch
housing bolts must be loosened before removal/in-
stallation of the structural dust cover. Clutch hous-
ing distortion will occur if this procedure is not
followed.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover, and engine
noise.
(2) Install all bolts retaining the cover-to-engine.
DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time (Fig. 20).
(3) Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT
tighten at this time.
Fig. 19 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
9 - 216 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)

CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against the corner formed by the engine and the
transmission clutch housing during tightening
sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to
the cover and engine noise.
(4) Torque the (2)structural dust cover bolts that
go into the clutch housing to 6-11 N´m (50-100
in.lbs.).
(5) Torque the (4) structural dust cover bolts that
go into the engine block to 6-11 N´m (50-100 in.lbs.).
(6) Torque the structural cover bolt that is closest
to the rear face of block on the passenger side of
block to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(7) Torque the structural cover bolt that is closest
to the front face of block on the drivers side to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).(8) Torque the remaining (2) structural cover bolts
that go into theblockin an ªXº pattern to 54 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.).
(9) Torque the structural cover bolts that go into
theclutch housingto 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(10) Torque the 7/16 inch engine block to clutch
housing bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove engine mount through bolts.
(4) Raise engine using engine support fixture spe-
cial tool # 8534.
(5) Remove engine mount to insulator bolts (Fig.
21), (Fig. 22).
(6) Remove insulator from engine.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the skid plate.
(4) Remove the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the engine oil filter.Fig. 20 Structural Cover - Manual Transmission
1 - STRUCTURAL COVER
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
4 - BOLT
5 - BOLT
6 - BOLT
7 - BOLT
Fig. 21 RH INSULATOR
1 - BOLT
2 - INSULATOR
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 217
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)

(8) Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the engine oil filter, if removed.
(10) Install the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the skid plate.
(12) Lower the vehicle.
(13) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts from the transmission mount
(Fig. 26).
(4) Remove the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the engine bracket.
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system (Fig. 27) is a full flow fil-
tration pressure feed type.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit and install
gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Fig. 26 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
9 - 220 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(2) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(3) Place a shop towel around the fuel injectors to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the fuel injectors (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL
INJECTOR - REMOVAL).
(4) With all injectors removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using the crankshaft barring tool (PN 7471±B).
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(6) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(8) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(9) Install fuel injectors (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL INJECTOR -
INSTALLATION).
9 - 240 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)