1998 DODGE RAM 1500 check engine

þ Loss of engine power
þ Engine misfiring
þ Poor fuel economy
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
þ Engine overheating
þ Loss of coolant
þ Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
þ Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in this
section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking
between adjacent cylinders will result in approxi-
mately a 50±70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system.
(3) Remove the air cleaner resonator and duct
work.
(4) Remove the generator.
(5) Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
(6) Disconnect the evaporation control system.
(7) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release pro-
cedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIV-
ERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Disconnect the
fuel supply line (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect heater hoses.
(9) Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets.
(10) Remove intake manifold and throttle body as
an assembly.
(11) Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods.
Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
(12) Remove the head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylin-
der head gasket.
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness,
using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If tolerances
exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder
head.
(2) Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the
valve seats as necessary.
(3) Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or
looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylin-
der head.
(4) Inspect pushrods. Replace worn or bent push-
rods.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylin-
der heads.
(2) Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket sur-
faces using a suitable solvent.
CAUTION: The head gaskets are not interchange-
able between left and right sides. They are marked
ªLº and ªRº to indicate left and right sides.
(3) Position new cylinder head gaskets onto the
cylinder block.
9 - 200 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

CAUTION: The head gaskets are marked ªTOPº to
indicate which side goes up.
(4) Position cylinder heads onto head gaskets and
cylinder block.
(5) Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps
(Fig. 4):
²Step 1Ð Snug tighten M12 cylinder head bolts,
in sequence, to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) and M8 bolts to
20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Step 2Ð Tighten M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) and verify M8 bolts
to 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque..
²Step 3Ð Turn M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, 90 degrees and tighten M8 bolts to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in
their original position.
(7) Install the intake manifold and throttle body
assembly.
(8) If required, adjust spark plugs to specifications.
Install the plugs.
(9) Connect the heater hoses.
(10) Install the fuel supply line.
(11) Install the generator and drive belt.
(12) Install cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Connect the evaporation control system.
(14) Install the air cleaner.
(15) Fill cooling system.
(16) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(17) Start engine check for leaks.CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect coil on plug connectors.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in
the same location as removed. The covers are
machined to accept the ground straps in those
locations only.
(3) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts,
and ground straps.
(4) Remove cylinder head cover.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ-
ing the wire harness to rest on or against the
engine cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with
other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head
cover.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2)
Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fas-
teners. Verify that all double ended studs are in the cor-
rect location and install left and right ground straps.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in
the same location as removed. The covers are
machined to accept the ground straps in those
locations only.
NOTE: The right hand ground strap is located on
the front inboard stud. The left hand ground strap
is located on the rear inboard stud.
(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 8 N´m (70 in. lbs). Begin torque
sequence in the middle of head cover and torque
bolts moving outward in a crisscross pattern from top
to bottom.
(4) Install ignition coil on plug, and torque fasten-
ers to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs)
(5) Connect, ignition coil electrical connectors.
(6) Install PCV hose.
(7) Connect battery negative cable.
Fig. 4 CYLINDER HEAD TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 201
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
DESCRIPTION
Both the intake and exhaust valves are made of
steel. The intake valve is 50.93 mm (2.00 inches) in
diameter and the exhaust valve is 39.53 mm (1.55
inches) in diameter. All valves use three bead lock
keepers to retain the springs and promote valve rota-
tion.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be
reworked, provided that correct angle and seat
width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head
must be replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is
important that the correct size valve guide pilot be
used for reseating stones. A true and complete sur-
face must be obtained.
(1) Using a suitable dial indicator measure the
center of the valve seat Total run out must not
exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
(2) Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the
valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head,
while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the
valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face.
If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the
valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree
stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of
the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree
stone.
(3) When the seat is properly positioned the width
of the intake seat must be 1.018 - 1.62 mm (0.0464 -
0.0637 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.48 - 1.92
mm (0.058 - 0.075 in.).
(4) Check the valve spring installed height after
refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for
both intake and exhaust valve springs must not
exceed 46.0 mm (1.81 in.).
VALVE FACE AND VALVE SEAT ANGLE CHART
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
SEAT WIDTH
INTAKE 1.018 - 1.62 mm
(0.0464 - 0.0637 in.)
EXHAUST 1.48 - 1.92 mm
(0.058 - 0.075 in.)
FACE ANGLE
(INT. AND EXT.) 45É - 45
1¤2É
SEAT ANGLE
(INT. AND EXT.) 44
1¤2É - 45É
(5)
The valve seat must maintain an angle of 44.5 ±
45.0 degrees angle.
(6) The valve face must maintain a face angle of
45.0 ± 45.5 degrees angle (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
9 - 202 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(2) Compress valve springs using Valve Spring
Compressor Tool special tool # C-3422and adapter
8464.
(3) Remove valve retaining locks, valve spring
retainers, valve stem seals and valve springs.
(4) Before removing valves, remove any burrs from
valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the
valve guides. Identify valves to ensure installation in
original location.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean valves thoroughly. Discard burned,
warped and cracked valves.
(2) Remove carbon and varnish deposits from
inside of valve guides with a reliable guide cleaner.
(3) Measure valve stems for wear. If wear exceeds
0.051 mm (0.002 inch), replace the valve.
(4) Coat valve stems with lubrication oil and insert
them in cylinder head.
(5) If valves or seats are reground, check valve
stem height. If valve is too long, replace cylinder
head.
(6) Install new seals on all valve guides. Install
valve springs and valve retainers.
(7) Compress valve springs with Valve Spring
Compressor Tool special tool # C- 3422and adapter
8464, install locks and release tool. If valves and/or
seats are ground, measure the installed height of
springs. Make sure the measurement is taken from
bottom of spring seat in cylinder head to the bottom
surface of spring retainer.
(8) Install cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cylinder head cover.(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(2) Loosen the rocker shafts using the following
sequence:Center, center-left, center-right, left,
right,.
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not
interchangeable between intake and exhaust. The
intake rocker arms are marked with an ªIº.
(3) Remove the rocker shafts. Note location for
reassembly.CAUTION: The longer push rods are for the exhaust
side, and the shorter push rods are for intake side.
(4) Remove the pushrods. Note pushrod location
for reassembly.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The longer push rods are for the exhaust
side, and the shorter push rods are for intake side.
(1) Install the push rods in the same order as
removed.
CAUTION: Verify that pushrod is installed into
rocker arm and lifter correctly while installing
rocker shaft assembly. Recheck after rocker shaft
has been torqued to specification.
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not
interchangeable between intake and exhaust. The
intake rocker arms are marked with the letter ªIº.
(2) Install rocker shaft assemblies in the same
order as removed.
CAUTION: Ensure that hold downs and rocker arms
are not overlapped when torquing bolts.
(3) Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 22 N´m (195
in. lbs.) torque,using the following sequence:Center,
center-right, center-left, right, left.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate or crank the engine dur-
ing or immediately after rocker arm installation.
Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about 5 minutes).
(4) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and
incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The
integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrica-
tion control to the valve stems.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 203
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

VALVE SPRINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(3) Remove air intake resonator.
(4) Remove spark plug cables.
(5) Remove ignition coil connectors (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove ignition coils.
(7) Remove one spark plug.
(8) Remove valve cover.
CAUTION: The piston must be at TDC, and both
valves closed on the cylinder to be serviced.
NOTE: If removing intake valve spring, install spe-
cial tool# 9070, pushrod retaining plate, to retain
the intake pushrods.
(9) Remove exhaust/intake rocker arm shafts.
(10) Install spring compressor, special tool# 9065.
NOTE: All valve springs and seals are removed in
the same manner.(11) Charge cylinder with air.
NOTE: Tap the top of the valve spring retainer to
loosen the spring retainers locks.
(12) Compress valve spring and remove valve
retainer locks.
(13) Release spring compressor and remove valve
spring.
NOTE: The valve springs are interchangeable
between intake and exhaust.
(14) Remove valve seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install valve seal.
(2) Install valve spring.
(3) Using special tool# 9065, compress valve spring
and install valve spring retainer and locks.
(4) Release air charge in cylinder.
(5) Remove spring compressor tool # 9065.
CAUTION: Verify that the pushrods are fully seated
into lifter and rocker arm. Recheck after rocker arm
shaft has been torqued to specification.
(6) Install rocker arm shaft and pushrods(Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(7) Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 22 N´m (195
in. lbs.) torque,using the following sequence:Center,
center-right, center-left, right, left.
(8) Remove special tool# 9070, pushrod retaining
plate, if used.
(9) Install cylinder head cover.
(10) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Install spark plugs.
(12) Install ignition coil on plug, and torque fas-
teners to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs)
(13) Install ignition coil connectors.
(14) Install spark plug cables.
(15) Install air intake resonator.
(16) Install air cleaner assembly.
(17) Connect negative battery cable.
Fig. 6 IGNITION COIL R/I Ð 5.7L V-8
1 - SLIDE LOCK (SLIDE OUTWARD TO UNLOCK)
2 - SPARK PLUG CABLE (TO OPPOSITE CYLINDER BANK
SPARK PLUG)
3 - RELEASE LOCK / TAB (PUSH HERE)
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
5 - IGNITION COIL
6 - COIL MOUNTING BOLTS (2)
7 - SPARK PLUG CABLE (TO OPPOSITE CYLINDER BANK
IGNITION COIL)
9 - 204 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

(15) Remove timing chain(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(16) Remove camshaft tensioner/thrust plate
assembly.
NOTE: Identify tappets to ensure installation in orig-
inal location.
(17) Remove the retainer assembly and tappets.
(18) Install a long bolt into front of camshaft to aid
in removal of the camshaft. Remove camshaft, being
careful not to damage cam bearings with the cam
lobes.
INSPECTION
(1) The cam bearings are not serviceable. Do not
attempt to replace cam bearings for any reason.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE PLUG
CAUTION: The new core hole plug must be installed
to the proper depth or camshaft damage could
develope. The plug must be installed squarely in
the bore.
(1) Install a new core hole plug at the rear of cam-
shaft, using special tool # 9048. Clean plug and apply
mopartlock and seal adhesive to the edge of the
plug, before installing. The plug must be installed to
a depth of+/-0.25mm from the end of the machined
bevel, that is the end of the bevel that is closest to
the cam bearing.
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT
(1) Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing
journals and insert the camshaft
(2) Install camshaft Tensioner plate assembly.
Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install timing chain and sprockets(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN
AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION) .
(4) Measure camshaft end play(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If not within limits
install a new thrust plate.
(5) Install the oil pump(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the oil pick up tube.
(7) Each tappet reused must be installed in the
same position from which it was removed.When
camshaft is replaced, all of the tappets must be
replaced.(8) Install the tappets and retainer assembly(Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFT-
ERS (CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install both left and right cylinder heads(Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLA-
TION) .
(10) Install pushrods
(11) Install rocker arms(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYL-
INDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
INSTALLATION).
(12) Install timing case cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install intake manifold(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(16) Install the A/C compressor, and set aside
(17) Install the generator.
(18) Install the accessory drive belt.
(19) Install the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(20) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(21) Install the battery negative cable.
(22) Refill coolant.
(23) Refill engine oil.
(24) Start engine and check for leaks.
CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pump pickup.
(4) Remove the windage tray/oil pan gasket.
(5) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the oil pump(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the timing drive(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(8) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.
(9) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
9 - 206 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506, remove the crankshaft
rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The rear seal must be installed dry for
proper operation. Do not lubricate the seal lip or
outer edge.
(1) Position the plastic seal guide onto the crank-
shaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil
seal onto the guide.
(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle, with a
hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to tap on
the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 209

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)