1998 DODGE RAM 1500 torque

(6) Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
(7) Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101
N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(8) Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the oil drain trough.
(10) Install the engine oil filter.(11) Install the front crossmember.
(12) Install the skid plate.
(13) Lower the vehicle.
(14) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(15) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Fig. 69 ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNTS 4X4
1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT
4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
6 - FRONT AXLE
7 - NUT
8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT
9 - 60 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts from the transmission mount
(Fig. 70).
(4) Remove the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the engine bracket.
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.
(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pres-
sure feed type.
OPERATION
Oil from the oil pan is pumped by a gerotor type oil
pump directly mounted to the crankshaft nose. Oil
pressure is controlled by a relief valve mounted
inside the oil pump housing. For lubrication flow
refer to (Fig. 71)
The camshaft exhaust valve lobes and rocker arms
are lubricated through a small hole in the rocker
arm; oil flows through the lash adjuster then through
the rocker arm and onto the camshaft lobe. Due to
the orientation of the rocker arm, the camshaft
intake lobes are not lubed in the same manner as the
exhaust lobes. The intake lobes are lubed through
internal passages in the camshaft. Oil flows through
a bore in the No. 3 camshaft bearing bore, and as the
camshaft turns, a hole in the camshaft aligns with
the hole in the camshaft bore allowing engine oil to
enter the camshaft tube. The oil then exits through
1.6mm (0.063 in.) holes drilled into the intake lobes,
lubricating the lobes and the rocker arms.
Fig. 70 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 61

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not posi-
tively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
9 - 64 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 72)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. Thefollowing steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
Fig. 72 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 65
LUBRICATION (Continued)

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (Fig. 88) is made of a compos-
ite material and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long
runners which maximizes low end torque. The intake
manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of
six individual press in place port gaskets to prevent
leaks. The throttle body attaches directly to the
intake manifold. Eight studs and two bolts are used
to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Fig. 88 Intake Manifold
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
3 - INTAKE PORT GASKETS
9 - 72 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
OIL (Continued)

EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds (Fig. 90) are log style with
a patented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high sili-
con molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core graphite
exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve sealing
to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds are cov-
ered by a three layer laminated heat shield for ther-
mal protection and noise reduction. The heat shields
(Fig. 91) are fastened with a torque prevailing nut
that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
REMOVAL
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shield (Fig. 92).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields (Fig. 93).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
INSTALLATION
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
Fig. 90 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
1 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Fig. 91 Exhaust Manifold Heat Shields
1 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
3 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
4 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
9 - 74 ENGINE - 3.7LDR

(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs .
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install newstuds. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs .
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 92 Exhaust Manifold Right
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE
Fig. 93 Exhaust Manifold left
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 75
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

(2) Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the
front cover (Fig. 96). Rotate the crankshaft until the
mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the
TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at
TDC.
(3) Note the location of the V6 mark stamped into
the camshaft drive gears. If the V6 mark on each
camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position,
the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6
mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the
engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. (Fig.
100)
(4) If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in
the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or
both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to Timing
Chain and Sprockets procedure in this section.
(5) If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off
and the other is correct, the problem is confined to
one secondary chain. Refer to Single camshaft tim-
ing, in this procedure.
(6) If both camshaft drive gear V6 marks are at
the twelve o'clock or the six o'clock position the
engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder
head covers.
COUNTER BALANCE SHAFT TIMING
(1) Ensure that the engine is at TDC with both
camshaft sprocket V6 marks in the 12 o'clock posi-
tion. (Fig. 100)(2) Look down the left cylinder head chain cavity.
The timing dot on the counter balance shaft drive
gear should be in the 6 o'clock position (Fig. 97).
TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT
NOTE: to adjust the timing on one camshaft, pre-
form the following procedure.
(1) Using Chain Tensioner Wedge (Fig. 99), Special
Tool 8379, stabilize the secondary chain drive. For
reference purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket posi-
tion. (Fig. 98)
(2) Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
(3) Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from
the camshaft.
(4) Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain
until the V6 mark is at the same position as the V6
mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear.
(5) Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench,
rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the
camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft
drive gear.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Fail-
ure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt
resulting in bolt failure.
Fig. 96 Engine Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator
Mark
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
Fig. 97 COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT ALIGNMENT
MARKS
1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT GEAR
2 - TIMING MARK
3 - IDLER SPROCKET GEAR
9 - 78 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
VALVE TIMING (Continued)