1998 DODGE RAM 1500 recommended oil

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
Clean cooling system prior to refilling (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(1) Close radiator drain plug.
CAUTION: Due to the use of the one-way check
valve, the engine must not be operating when refill-
ing the cooling system.
NOTE: The diesel engine is equipped with two one-
way check valves (jiggle pins). The check valves
are used as a servicing feature and will vent air
when the system is being filled. Water pressure (or
flow) will hold the valves closed.
(2) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of
water and antifreeze.
(3) Fill coolant reserve/overflow tank to the FULL
mark.
(4) Start and operate engine until thermostat
opens. Upper radiator hose should be warm to touch.
(5) If necessary, add 50/50 water and antifreeze
mixture to the coolant reserve/overflow tank to main-
tain coolant level. This level should be between the
ADD and FULL marks. The level in the reserve/over-
flow tank may drop below the ADD mark after three
or four warm-up and cool-down cycles.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze
point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it loses color or becomes con-
taminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh prop-
erly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
Do not remove the radiator cap to add coolant to
the system. When adding coolant to maintain the cor-
rect level, do so only at the reserve/overflow bottle.
Remove the radiator cap only for testing or when
refilling the system after service. Removing the cap
unnecessarily can cause loss of coolant and allow air
to enter the system, which produces corrosion.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR CAP WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOTAND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
THE COOLANT OR HIGH PRESSURE STEAM CAN
OCCUR.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft.
Lbs.In.
Lbs.
Bolt - Automatic Belt
Tensioner to Block41 30 -
Bolt - Automatic Belt
Tensioner Pulley61 45 -
Bolt - Automatic Belt
Tensioner Pulley - Diesel43 32 -
Bolt - Block Heater 2 - 17
Bolts - Generator/
Compressor Mounting
Bracket
# 1 and 2 54 40 -
# 3 40 30 -
Bolts - Generator/
Compressor Mounting
Bracket - Diesel24 18 -
Bolts - Fan Shroud to
Radiator Mounting - All
Except 5.9L Diesel6-55
5.9L Diesel 11.8 - 105
Bolts - Radiator to Support 8.5 - 75
Bolts - Fan Blade to
Viscous Fan Drive24 18 -
Fan Drive - All Except
8.0L/5.9L Diesel50 37 -
8.0L/5.9L Diesel 115 85 -
Bolt - Idler Pulley 54 40 -
Bolt - Idler Pulley - Diesel 43 32 -
Bolts - Thermostat Housing
- All Except 5.9L13 - 112
Bolts - Thermostat Housing
5.9L23 16 -
Bolts - Thermostat Housing
- Diesel10 - 89
Bolts - Power Steering Oil
Cooler8.4 - 75
Bolts - Transmission
Auxiliary Oil Cooler6-55
DRCOOLING 7 - 19
COOLING (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
CAP................................58
CLEANING............................59
INSPECTION..........................59
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP...........59
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP BYPASS....59
OPERATION
OPERATIONÐWATER PUMP............60
OPERATION - WATER PUMP BYPASS.....60
REMOVAL.............................60
CLEANING............................61
INSPECTION..........................61
INSTALLATION.........................61
WATER PUMP - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION.........................62OPERATION...........................62
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP . . . 62
REMOVAL.............................62
CLEANING............................62
INSPECTION..........................62
INSTALLATION.........................62
WATER PUMP - 5.7L
REMOVAL.............................63
INSTALLATION.........................63
WATER PUMP - 8.0L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER PUMP . . . 63
REMOVAL.............................64
CLEANING............................66
INSPECTION..........................66
INSTALLATION.........................66
COOLANT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT
ETHYLENE-GLYCOL MIXTURES
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
year/100,000 Mile Formula (ethylene-glycol base cool-
ant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain a freeze
point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF).
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water
mixture depends upon the climate and vehicle oper-
ating conditions. The antifreeze concentrationmust
alwaysbe a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in
all climates.If percentage is lower than 44 per-
cent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation,
and cooling system components may be
severely damaged by corrosion.Maximum protec-
tion against freezing is provided with a 68% anti-
freeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to
-67.7É C (-90É F). A higher percentage will freeze at a
warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of
antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat becausethe specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of
water.
Use of 100 percent ethylene-glycol will cause for-
mation of additive deposits in the system, as the cor-
rosion inhibitive additives in ethylene-glycol require
the presence of water to dissolve. The deposits act as
insulation, causing temperatures to rise to as high as
149É C (300É F). This temperature is hot enough to
melt plastic and soften solder. The increased temper-
ature can result in engine detonation. In addition,
100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at 22É C (-8É F ).
PROPYLENE-GLYCOL MIXTURES
It's overall effective temperature range is smaller
than that of ethylene-glycol. The freeze point of 50/50
propylene-glycol and water is -32É C (-26É F). 5É C
higher than ethylene-glycol's freeze point. The boiling
point (protection against summer boil-over) of propy-
lene-glycol is 125É C (257ÉF)at96.5 kPa (14 psi),
compared to 128É C (263É F) for ethylene-glycol. Use
of propylene-glycol can result in boil-over or freeze-up
on a cooling system designed for ethylene-glycol. Pro-
pylene glycol also has poorer heat transfer character-
istics than ethylene glycol. This can increase cylinder
head temperatures under certain conditions.
Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can
cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibi-
tors, causing damage to the various cooling system
components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propy-
lene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle,
conventional methods of determining freeze point will
not be accurate. Both the refractive index and spe-
cific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propy-
lene glycol.
DRENGINE 7 - 31

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain the coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the power cord from the heater by
unplugging (Fig. 7).
(4) Loosen (but do not completely remove) the
screw at center of block heater (Fig. 7).
(5) Remove the block heater by carefully prying
from side-to-side. Note the direction of the heating
element coil (up or down). The element coil must be
installed correctly to prevent damage.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the block heater hole.
(2) Install the new O-ring seal(s) to heater.
(3) Insert the block heater into cylinder block and
position the element properly.
(4) With the heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(5) Fill the cooling system with the recommended
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check the block heater for leaks.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L
DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available on all
models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The heater is mounted in a threaded hole of the
engine cylinder block with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant. The cord is attached to
an engine compartment component with tie-straps.
The 5.9L diesel engine has the block heater located
on the right side of the engine below the exhaust
manifold next to the oil cooler (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Engine Block Heater - 3.7L/4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 7 Engine Block Heater
1 - FREEZE PLUG HOLE
2 - BLOCK HEATER
3 - SCREW
4 - POWER CORD (120V AC)
5 - HEATING COIL
6 - OIL FILTER
DRENGINE 7 - 37
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)

SPARK PLUG
DESCRIPTION
Resistor type spark plugs are used on all engines.
Sixteen spark plugs (2 per cylinder) are used with
5.7L V-8 engines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPARK PLUG
CONDITIONS
To prevent possible pre-ignition and/or mechanical
engine damage, the correct type/heat range/number
spark plug must be used.
Always use the recommended torque when tighten-
ing spark plugs. Incorrect torque can distort the
spark plug and change plug gap. It can also pull the
plug threads and do possible damage to both the
spark plug and the cylinder head.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. A sin-
gle plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates
that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
the Lubrication and Maintenance section.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned
and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil
fouled.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean the spark plugs. Metallic deposits will
remain on the spark plug insulator and will cause
plug misfire.
Spark plug resistance values range from 6,000 to
20,000 ohms (when checked with at least a 1000 volt
spark plug tester).Do not use an ohmmeter to
check the resistance values of the spark plugs.
Inaccurate readings will result.
NORMAL OPERATING
The few deposits present on the spark plug will
probably be light tan or slightly gray in color. This is
evident with most grades of commercial gasoline
(Fig. 23). There will not be evidence of electrode
burning. Gap growth will not average more than
approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 3200 km (2000
miles) of operation. Spark plugs that have normal
wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes
filed, have the gap set and then be installed.Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United
States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT)
for unleaded fuel. During combustion, fuel with MMT
causes the entire tip of the spark plug to be coated
with a rust colored deposit. This rust color can be
misdiagnosed as being caused by coolant in the com-
bustion chamber. Spark plug performance may be
affected by MMT deposits.
COLD FOULING/CARBON FOULING
Cold fouling is sometimes referred to as carbon
fouling. The deposits that cause cold fouling are basi-
cally carbon (Fig. 23). A dry, black deposit on one or
two plugs in a set may be caused by sticking valves
or defective spark plug cables. Cold (carbon) fouling
of the entire set of spark plugs may be caused by a
clogged air cleaner element or repeated short operat-
ing times (short trips).
WET FOULING OR GAS FOULING
A spark plug coated with excessive wet fuel or oil
is wet fouled. In older engines, worn piston rings,
leaking valve guide seals or excessive cylinder wear
can cause wet fouling. In new or recently overhauled
engines, wet fouling may occur before break-in (nor-
mal oil control) is achieved. This condition can usu-
ally be resolved by cleaning and reinstalling the
fouled plugs.
OIL OR ASH ENCRUSTED
If one or more spark plugs are oil or oil ash
encrusted (Fig. 24), evaluate engine condition for the
cause of oil entry into that particular combustion
chamber.
Fig. 23 NORMAL OPERATION AND COLD (CARBON)
FOULING
1 - NORMAL
2 - DRY BLACK DEPOSITS
3 - COLD (CARBON) FOULING
DRIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 17

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and MopartGasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 2)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 2)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 2)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with viscous fan assembly.
(6) Remove drive belt.
(7) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine.
(8) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(9) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(10) Drain cooling system.
(11) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
Fig. 2 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
9 - 10 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or
damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is in line
with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the threaded
stud and the zero mark on the front. Place spring over
the stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set
tone device. Pull on torque wrench until a Ping is
heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant.
Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring
load at test length. Fractional measurements are indi-
cated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to Spec-
ifications Section to obtain specified height and
allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not
meet specifications (Fig. 19).
INSTALLATION
(1) coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
(2) Install the valve stem seal. make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
(3) Install the spring and the spring retainer (Fig.
20).
(4) Using the valve spring compressor, compress
the spring and install the two valve spring retainer
halves.
(5) Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
(6) lubricate the camshaft journal with clean
engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the
sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and
the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the
camshaft bearing caps.(7) Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts. Tighten the bolts 9-13 N´m (100 in. lbs.) in 1/2
turn increments in the sequence shown (Fig. 21).
(8)
Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker
arms(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 19 Testing Valve Springs
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
Fig. 20 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 - VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 - RETAINER
3 - VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 - INTAKE VALVE
5 - EXHAUST VALVE
6 - VALVE SPRING
Fig. 21 Camshaft Bearing Caps Tightening
Sequence
9 - 30 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not posi-
tively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
9 - 64 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)