1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Starting

(9) Attach Dial Indicator C-3339 to post and posi-
tion dial indicator plunger on a flat surface on a ring
gear bolt head (Fig. 15).
(10) Push and hold differential to the pinion gear
side of the housing (Fig. 16) and zero dial indicator.
(11) Push and hold differential case to the ring
gear side and record dial indicator reading (Fig. 17).
(12) Add the dial indicator reading to the starting
point shim thicknesses to determine the total shim
thickness necessary to achieve zero differential end
play.
(13) Add 0.2 mm (0.008 in) to the zero end play
total. This new total represents the shims needed to
preload the new differential case bearings.
(14) Rotate dial indicator out of the way on pilot
stud.
(15) Remove differential case, dummy bearings
and dummy shims from the housing.
(16) Install the pinion gear in the housing. Install
the companion flange and establish the correct pinion
rotating torque.
(17) Install differential case and Dummy Bearings
in the housing with a single dummy shim on the ring
gear side of the axle and tighten retaining cap bolts.
(18) Position the dial indicator plunger on a flat
surface between the ring gear bolt heads (Fig. 15).
(19) Push and hold differential case toward pinion.
(20) Zero dial indicator face to pointer.(21) Push and hold differential case to ring gear
side of the housing.
(22) Record dial indicator reading.
Fig. 15 DIFFERENTIAL SIDE PLAY
1 - DIFFERENTIAL
2 - PILOT STUD
3 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 16 ZERO DIAL INDICATOR
1 - PINION GEAR SIDE
2 - PILOT STUD
3 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 17 RECORD DIAL INDICATOR
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - HOUSING
3 - RING GEAR SIDE
3 - 36 FRONT AXLE - C205FDR
FRONT AXLE - C205F (Continued)

LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by:
²Worn U-joint.
²Worn side gear thrust washers.
²Worn pinion shaft bore.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
DRREAR AXLE - 9 1/4 3 - 81
REAR AXLE - 9 1/4 (Continued)

VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear and lis-
ten for the noise. A mechanics stethoscope is helpful
in isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid or
correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
DRREAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA 3 - 113
REAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA (Continued)

VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear and lis-
ten for the noise. A mechanics stethoscope is helpful
in isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid or
correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 141
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Temperature gauge reading is
inconsistent (fluctuates, cycles or is
erratic)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and
repair if necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. Gauge should return
to normal range after vehicle is
driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. The gauge should
return to normal range after a few
minutes of engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air
will build up in the cooling system
causing the thermostat to open
late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head
gasket leaks. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine
oil. Inspect for white steam emitting
from the exhaust system. Repair as
necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace
as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/WATER PUMP -
REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Check and correct as necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to build
up in cooling system causing
thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as
necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT
TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seals. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING). Replace cap as
necessary.
7 - 14 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install fan blade assembly to electrically con-
trolled viscous fan drive. Tighten mounting bolts to
24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position the fan blade/viscous fan drive to the
vehicle as an assembly.
(3) Install the viscous fan drive assembly onto fan
pulley hub shaft (Fig. 4). Tighten mounting nut to
115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install upper fan shroud. Make sure the upper
shroud locks into the tabs on the lower radiator.
(5) Install two upper shroud mounting bolts.
Tighten to 11.8 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Position the electronically controlled viscous
fan drive wiring into the channel in the upper fan
shroud (Fig. 5). Make sure the wiring is not pinched.
(7) Install the lower fan shroud into position and
verify the two locking tabs have seated.
(8) Install two push pin fasteners to lock lower fan
shroud to the main assembly.
NOTE: Verify that the fan drive electrical wire does
not interfere with fan blade travel when the fan
blade is spun by hand.
(9) Connect the wiring harness connector and
install the harness bracket to the upper radiator
shroud.(10) Install the coolant recovery container (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER - INSTALLATION).
(11) Connect the battery negative cables.
NOTE:
Viscous Fan Drive Fluid Pump Out Requirement:
After installing a new viscous fan drive, bring the
engine speed up to approximately 2000 rpm and
hold for approximately two minutes. This will
ensure proper fluid distribution within the drive.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available with
all models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The cord is attached to an engine compartment com-
ponent with tie-straps. The heater warms the engine
providing easier engine starting and faster warm-up
in low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole of the engine cylinder block in place of a freeze
plug with the heating element immersed in engine
coolant. The 3.7L/4.7L gas powered engines have the
block heater located to the rear on the right side of
the engine (Fig. 6).
OPERATION
The heater warms the engine coolant providing
easier engine starting and faster warm-up in low
temperatures. Connecting the power cord to a
grounded 110-120 volt AC electrical outlet with a
grounded three wire extension cord provides the elec-
tricity needed to heat the element.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If the unit does not operate, possible causes can be
either the power cord or the heater element. Test the
power cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or
110-volt test light. Test heater element continuity
with an ohmmeter or a 12-volt test light.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retainer clips and away from any
components that may cause abrasion or damage,
such as linkages, exhaust components, etc.
Fig. 5 Electronically Controlled Viscous Fan Drive
Wiring
1 - UPPER SHROUD
2 - WIRING
3 - GROMMET
7 - 36 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR FAN - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

OPERATION
The heater warms the engine coolant providing
easier engine starting and faster warm-up in low
temperatures. Connecting the power cord to a
grounded 110-120 volt AC electrical outlet with a
grounded three wire extension cord provides the elec-
tricity needed to heat the element.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Unscrew the power cord retaining cap and dis-
connect cord from heater element.
(4) Using a suitable size socket, loosen and remove
the block heater element (Fig. 9).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the threads in the cylinder
block.
(2) Coat heater element threads with Mopart
Thread Sealer with Teflon.
(3) Screw block heater into cylinder block and
tighten to 55 N´m (41 ft. lbs.).
(4) Connect block heater cord and tighten retain-
ing cap.
(5) Fill cooling system with recommended coolant
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check block heater for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is
used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor
protrudes into an engine water jacket.
The ECT sensor is a two-wire Negative Thermal
Coefficient (NTC) sensor. Meaning, as engine coolant
temperature increases, resistance (voltage) in the
sensor decreases. As temperature decreases, resis-
tance (voltage) in the sensor increases.
OPERATION
At key-on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
sends out a regulated 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor.
The PCM then monitors the signal as it passes
through the ECT sensor to the sensor ground (sensor
return).
When the engine is cold, the PCM will operate in
Open Loop cycle. It will demand slightly richer air-
fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds. This is done
until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The PCM uses inputs from the ECT sensor for the
following calculations:
²for engine coolant temperature gauge operation
through CCD or PCI (J1850) communications
²Injector pulse-width
²Spark-advance curves
²ASD relay shut-down times
²Idle Air Control (IAC) motor key-on steps
²Pulse-width prime-shot during cranking
²O2 sensor closed loop times
²Purge solenoid on/off times
²EGR solenoid on/off times (if equipped)
²Leak Detection Pump operation (if equipped)
²Radiator fan relay on/off times (if equipped)
²Target idle speed
Fig. 8 Engine Block Heater ± 5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 9 Block Heater - 5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
7 - 38 ENGINEDR
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

OPERATION
The transmission oil is routed through the main
cooler first, then the auxiliary cooler where addi-
tional heat is removed from the transmission oil
before returning to the transmission. The auxiliary
cooler has an internal thermostat that controls fluid
flow through the cooler. When the transmission fluid
is cold (less then operating temperature), the fluid is
routed through the cooler bypass. When the trans-
mission fluid reaches operating temperatures and
above, the thermostat closes off the bypass allowing
fluid flow through the cooler. The thermostat is ser-
vicable.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - AIR TO OIL COOLER
(1) Remove Charge Air Cooler (Refer to 11 -
EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/
CHARGE AIR COOLER AND PLUMBING -
REMOVAL).
(2) Place a drain pan under the oil cooler.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Disconnect the oil cooler quick-connect fittings
from the transmission lines.
(5) Remove the charge air cooler-to-oil cooler bolt
(Fig. 5).
(6) Remove two mounting nuts.
(7) Remove the oil cooler and line assembly
towards the front of vehicle. Cooler must be rotated
and tilted into position while removing.
REMOVAL - WATER TO OIL COOLER
CAUTION: If a leak should occur in the water-to-oil
cooler mounted to the side of the engine block,
engine coolant may become mixed with transmis-
sion fluid. Transmission fluid may also enter engine
cooling system. Both cooling system and transmis-
sion should be drained and inspected in case of oil
cooler leakage.
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
(2) Remove starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(3) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(4) Disconnect coolant lines from cooler.
(5) Disconnect transmission oil lines from cooler.
Plug cooler lines to prevent oil leakage.
(6) Remove cooler bracket to transmission adapter
bolt.
(7) Remove two cooler bracket to block bolts.
(8) Remove cooler assembly from vehicle. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 5 Auxiliary Transmission Oil CoolerÐDiesel
Engine
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - THERMOSTATIC BYPASS VALVE
3 - RADIATOR
4 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTINGS
5 - TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER
Fig. 6 Transmission Water-To- Oil Cooler - Diesel
1 - TRANSMISSION WATER-TO-OIL COOLER
DRTRANSMISSION 7 - 69
TRANS COOLER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)