1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Rear seat

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
(2) Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool
8349-2 (Fig. 68) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then
position the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the guide.
(3) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle (Fig. 69),
with a hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to
tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(4) Install the flexplate.
(5) Install the transmission.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate onto the crankshaft and
install the bolts hand tight.
(2) Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 60 N´m
(45 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 70).
(3) Install the transmission.
Fig. 68 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Guide Special Tool
8349-2 and Oil
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-2 GUIDE
Fig. 69 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-1 INSTALLER
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
Fig. 70 Flexplate Tightening Sequence
1 - FLEXPLATE
9 - 138 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the right
rear of the engine on the 3.7L engines. (Fig. 96).
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4)
Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4)
Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
(5)Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil
to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretch-
ing or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7)
Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this section.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used engine
oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine.
Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow,
disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Corporation
recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 97)to
remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
Fig. 96 ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK 3.7L ENGINE
1 - TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
2 - ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
3 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
Fig. 97 Oil Filter - 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
9 - 154 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
OIL (Continued)

ENGINE - 5.7L
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
ENGINE - 5.7L
DESCRIPTION........................182
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION..........183
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE..........183
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL............185
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE............186
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE.....186
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION............187
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL............188
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS........190
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK..............................190
REMOVAL............................190
INSTALLATION........................191
SPECIFICATIONS
5.7L ENGINE........................192
TORQUE...........................195
SPECIAL TOOLS
5.7L ENGINE........................196
AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
REMOVAL............................199
INSTALLATION........................199
CYLINDER HEAD
OPERATIONÐCYLINDER HEAD...........199
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER HEAD
GASKET FAILURE....................199
REMOVAL............................200
CLEANING...........................200
INSPECTION.........................200
INSTALLATION........................200
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL............................201
INSTALLATION........................201
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES.........202
DESCRIPTION.......................202
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING.....202
REMOVAL............................203INSTALLATION........................203
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY
REMOVAL............................203
INSTALLATION........................203
VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION........................203
VALVE SPRINGS
REMOVAL............................204
INSTALLATION........................204
ENGINE BLOCK
CLEANING...........................205
INSPECTION.........................205
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE PLUG. 205
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT...............205
INSPECTION.........................206
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE
PLUG..............................206
INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT............206
CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL............................206
INSTALLATION........................207
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT
MAIN BEARING - FITTING..............207
INSPECTION.........................208
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
REMOVAL............................208
INSTALLATION........................208
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL
AREA LEAKS........................209
REMOVAL............................209
INSTALLATION........................209
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER
REMOVAL............................209
INSTALLATION........................210
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL............................210
INSTALLATION........................210
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS...........................210
REMOVAL............................211
INSTALLATION........................211
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION........................211
9 - 180 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

þ Loss of engine power
þ Engine misfiring
þ Poor fuel economy
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
þ Engine overheating
þ Loss of coolant
þ Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
þ Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in this
section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking
between adjacent cylinders will result in approxi-
mately a 50±70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system.
(3) Remove the air cleaner resonator and duct
work.
(4) Remove the generator.
(5) Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
(6) Disconnect the evaporation control system.
(7) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release pro-
cedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIV-
ERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Disconnect the
fuel supply line (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect heater hoses.
(9) Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets.
(10) Remove intake manifold and throttle body as
an assembly.
(11) Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods.
Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
(12) Remove the head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylin-
der head gasket.
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness,
using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If tolerances
exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder
head.
(2) Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the
valve seats as necessary.
(3) Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or
looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylin-
der head.
(4) Inspect pushrods. Replace worn or bent push-
rods.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylin-
der heads.
(2) Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket sur-
faces using a suitable solvent.
CAUTION: The head gaskets are not interchange-
able between left and right sides. They are marked
ªLº and ªRº to indicate left and right sides.
(3) Position new cylinder head gaskets onto the
cylinder block.
9 - 200 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506, remove the crankshaft
rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The rear seal must be installed dry for
proper operation. Do not lubricate the seal lip or
outer edge.
(1) Position the plastic seal guide onto the crank-
shaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil
seal onto the guide.
(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle, with a
hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to tap on
the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 209

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

Filter Removal
(1) The housing cover is equipped with spring clips
(Fig. 6) and is hinged with plastic tabs. Unlatch clips
from top of air cleaner housing and tilt housing cover
up for cover removal.
(2) Remove air cleaner element from air cleaner
housing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing new air cleaner element (fil-
ter), clean inside of air cleaner housing.
(2) Position air cleaner cover to tabs on front of air
cleaner housing. Latch spring clips to seal cover to
housing.
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder head is constructed of cast iron and is
a one piece cross flow design with four valves per cyl-
inder. The arrangement of two intake and two
exhaust valves per cylinder allows for a centrally
located injector. The cylinder head also includes an
integral intake manifold, an integral thermostat
housing, and a longitudal fuel return rifle, which
exits at the rear of the head. The 24 valve design
also includes integrally cast valve guides and hard-
ened intake and exhaust valve seat inserts.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Drain engine coolant.
(4) Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger
elbow.
(5) Disconnect turbocharger oil drain tube at rub-
ber hose connection. Cap off open ports to prevent
intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect air inlet temperature/pressure sen-
sor.
(8) Remove air cleaner housing and snorkel from
the vehicle. Cap off turbocharger air inlet to prevent
intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
(9) Disconnect cab heater core supply and return
hoses from the cylinder head and heater pipe.
(10) Disconnect turbocharger oil supply line at the
turbocharger end. Cap off open ports to prevent
intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
(11) Remove exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head
bolts, spacers, heat shield, retention straps, and cab
heater plumbing. Remove exhaust manifold and tur-
bocharger from the vehicle as an assembly.
(12) Remove cooling fan assembly.
(13) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(14) Remove cooling fan support from cylinder
block.
(15) Remove upper generator bolt, loosen lower
generator bolt, and rotate generator away from cylin-
der head.
(16) Disconnect radiator upper hose from the ther-
mostat housing.
(17) Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature/Mani-
fold Air Pressure, and Coolant Temperature sensor
connectors.
(18) Remove the engine harness to cylinder head
attaching bolts and P-clips at front of head.
(19) Remove the throttle linkage cover (Fig. 8).
(20) For automatic equipped vehicles only, remove
the six (6) accelerator pedal position sensor assem-
bly-to-cylinder head bracket bolts (Fig. 9) and secure
the entire assembly out of the way. Disconnect the
APPS connector (Fig. 10).It is not necessary to
disconnect the cables from the throttle control
assembly.
(21) Remove the intake air grid heater wires from
the grid heater.
(22) Remove engine oil level indicator tube attach-
ing bolt at fuel filter housing bracket and inlet air
connection..
(23) Remove the charge air cooler-to-air inlet hous-
ing pipe.
Fig. 7 FILTER MINDERŸ - 5.9L DIESEL
1 - PRESS BUTTON TO RESET
2 - YELLOW DISC
3 - RED ZONE
4 - TO AIR FILTER HOUSING
5 - FILTER MINDER
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 249
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT (Continued)