1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Y case

PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/
TONE RING
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are service in a
matched set. Never replace the ring gear/pinion
gear without replacing the other matching gear.
(1) Mark pinion flange and propeller shaft for
installation alignment.
(2) Disconnect propeller shaft from pinion flange
and remove propeller shaft.
(3) Remove differential from the housing.
(4) Place differential on Plug 8964. Drive exciter
ring off the differential case with a hammer and
punch (Fig. 49).
NOTE: Do not remove the exciter ring if it is not
being replaced.
(5) Place differential case in a vise with soft metal
jaw protectors
(6) Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential
case.
(7) Drive ring gear from differential case with a
soft hammer (Fig. 50).
(8) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 51) and remove pinion flange nut.
(9) Remove pinion flange from pinion with Pinion
Flange Puller 8992 (Fig. 52).
Fig. 47 DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARING
1 - BRIDGE
2 - SPLITTER
3 - BEARING
4 - PLUG
Fig. 48 DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - BEARING
4 - INSTALLER
Fig. 49 EXCITER RING
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - PUNCH
4 - EXCITER RING
3 - 162 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS (Continued)

(10) Remove pinion gear from housing with Pinion
Driver 8977 and a hammer (Fig. 53).
NOTE: Thread the driver on the pinion shaft till it
bottoms out.
(11) Remove pinion seal with a slide hammer or
pry bar.(12) Remove front pinion bearing and discard bear-
ing.
CAUTION: Do not reuse front pinion bearing/cup.
(13) Remove collapsible spacer from the pinion
shaft.
Fig. 50 RING GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - HAMMER
Fig. 51 FLANGE WRENCH
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - FLANGE WRENCH
Fig. 52 PINION FLANGE PULLER
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - PULLER
Fig. 53 PINION DRIVER
1 - PINION SHAFT
2 - PINION DRIVER
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 163
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(15) Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion
rotating torque again.
(16) Position the ring gear on differential case and
start twonewring gear bolts.
(17) Install the rest of thenewring gear bolts and
tighten them alternately to seat the ring gear.
(18) Torque ring gear bolts to 237 N´m (175 ft.
lbs.).
(19) If exciter ring was removed, position differen-
tial assembly on differential Plug 8965 (Fig. 64) and
place exciter ring on the differential case.
(20) Install the exciter ring on the differential case
evenly with a hammer and brass punch (Fig. 65).Drive the ring down until it is seated against the
ring gear.
CAUTION: Do not damage exciter ring teeth during
installation.
Fig. 62 FLANGE WRENCH
1 - FLANGE WRENCH
2 - PINION FLANGE
Fig. 63 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 64 EXCITER RING
1 - EXCITER RING
2 - RING GEAR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL PLUG
4 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
Fig. 65 EXCITER RING INSTALLATION
1 - EXCITER RING
2 - PUNSH
3 - RING GEAR
3 - 166 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(21) Install differential in housing and verify gear
backlash and gear contact pattern.
(22) Measure final rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench. The final pinion rotating
torque plus differential case bearing preload is:
²New Bearings:3.4-5.6 N´m (30-50 in. lbs.)
²Original Bearings:2.8-5.1 N´m (25-45 in. lbs.)
(23) Install axle shafts.(24) Install the propeller shaft with the reference
marks aligned.
(25) Install differential cover with gasket and
tighten bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(26) Fill differential with fluid and tighten fill plug
to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 167
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Partial engagement of clutch disc.
One side of disc is worn and the
other side is glazed and lightly
worn.1. Clutch pressure plate position
incorrect.1. Replace clutch disc and cover.
2. Clutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent or distorted.2. Replace clutch disc and cover.
3. Clutch disc damaged or
distorted.2. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Check alignment and runout of
flywheel, disc, pressure plate, andùr
clutch housing. Correct as
necessary.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Slave Cylinder Nuts 23 17 -
Clutch Master Cylinder
Nuts28 21 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V6
&V850 37 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V10 30 22.5 -
Pressure Plate Bolts -
Diesel30 22.5 -
Release Bearing Pivot 23 17 -
Flywheel Bolts 95 70 -
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Support engine with wood block and adjustable
jack stand, to prevent strain on engine mounts.
(2) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(3) If pressure plate will be reused, mark the posi-
tion on flywheel with paint or scriber (Fig. 1). Also
note location marks on the pressure next to the bolt
holes. The mark will be a L or a circle with an X in
it.
(4) Insert clutch alignment tool through clutch disc
and into pilot bushing, to hold disc in place while
removing bolts.
(5) Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly, a few
threads at a time and in a diagonal pattern to pre-
vent warping the plate.
(6) Remove bolts completely and remove pressure
plate, disc and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with a NLGI
- 2 rated grease.
(3) Install clutch alignment tool in clutch disc hub
with the raised side of hub is facing away from the
flywheel.
NOTE: Flywheel side is imprinted on the disc face.
(4) Install alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on the flywheel.
(5) Position pressure plate over disc and onto the
flywheel (Fig. 2).
(6) Align and hold pressure plate in position and
install bolts finger tight.
(7) Tighten bolts evenly and a few threads at a
time in a diagonal pattern.
CAUTION: Bolts must be tightened evenly and to
specified torque to avoid warping pressure plate
cover.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 5
CLUTCH (Continued)

(11) Wipe pilot bearing surface clean.
(12) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing. Verify spring clips that retain fork on pivot
ball and release bearing on fork are installed prop-
erly (Fig. 5).
NOTE: If release lever is installed correctly, the
lever part number will be toward the bottom of the
transmission and right side up. There is also a
stamped ªIº in the lever which goes to the pivot ball
side of the transmission.
(13) Install transmission and transfer case if
equipped.
(14) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The clutch housing maintains alignment between
the crankshaft and transmission input shaft. Mis-
alignment can cause clutch noise, hard shifting,
incomplete release and chatter. Also premature pilot
bearing, cover release fingers and clutch disc wear.
In severe cases, it can cause premature wear of the
transmission input shaft and front bearing.
NOTE: Only the NV4500 clutch housing can be
checked using the following bore and face runout
procedures. The NV5600 clutch housing is a inte-
gral part of the transmission and can only be
checked off the vehicle.
CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT
CAUTION: On diesel engines if housing bore runout
exceeds 0.015 inch, the clutch housing/transmis-
sion adapter plate must be replaced. On gas
engines if housing bore runout exceeds 0.053 in.
the clutch housing must be replaced.
NOTE: Offset dowels are available for gas engines
to correct housing bore runout. They are not avail-
able for diesel engines.
(1) Remove the clutch housing.
(2) Remove the clutch cover and disc.
(3) Replace one of the flywheel bolts with an
appropriate size threaded rod that is 10 in. (25.4 cm)
long (Fig. 6). The rod will be used to mount the dial
indicator.
(4) Remove release fork from the clutch housing.
(5) Install clutch housing. Tighten the housing
bolts nearest the alignment dowels first.
(6) Mount dial indicator on the threaded rod and
position indicator plunger on the clutch housing bore
(Fig. 7).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the topof the housing bore. Zero the indicator at this
point.
(8) Rotate crankshaft and record indicator read-
ings at eight points (45É apart) around the bore (Fig.
8). Take measurement at least twice for accuracy.
(9) Subtract each reading from the one 180É oppo-
site to determine runout and direction. Bore runout
example (Fig. 8):
²0.000 ± (±0.007) = 0.007 in.
²+0.002 ± (±0.010) = 0.012 in.
²+0.004 ± (±0.005) = 0.009 in.
²±0.001 ± (+0.001) = ±0.002 in.
Fig. 5 FORK, BEARING AND SPRING CLIPS
1 - FORK
2 - SPRING CLIP
3 - BEARING
4 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 6 DIAL INDICATOR MOUNTING STUD
1 - 7/16 - 20 THREAD
2 - NUT
3 - STUD OR THREADED ROD
4 - 10 INCHES LONG
DRCLUTCH 6 - 7
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)