1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Valve cover

Oils of the SAE 5W-40 grade number are preferred
when minimum temperatures consistently fall below
-15ÉC. (Fig. 5)
DESCRIPTION - POWER STEERING FLUID
MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid is
required in the power steering system. Substitute
fluids can induce power steering system failure.
MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid
when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it
can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle
such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not
permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition.
As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look
darker in color and may eventually become brown.
This is normal.ATF+4 also has a unique odor that
may change with age. Consequently, odor and color
cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the
need for a fluid change.
DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING: ANTIFREEZE IS AN ETHYLENE GLYCOL
BASE COOLANT AND IS HARMFUL IF SWAL-
LOWED OR INHALED. IF SWALLOWED, DRINK
TWO GLASSES OF WATER AND INDUCE VOMIT-
ING. IF INHALED, MOVE TO FRESH AIR AREA.
SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT
STORE IN OPEN OR UNMARKED CONTAINERS.
WASH SKIN AND CLOTHING THOROUGHLY AFTER
COMING IN CONTACT WITH ETHYLENE GLYCOL.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. DISPOSE OF
GLYCOL BASE COOLANT PROPERLY, CONTACTYOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR
LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR
AREA. DO NOT OPEN A COOLING SYSTEM WHEN
THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR
HOT UNDER PRESSURE, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT. AVOID RADIATOR COOLING FAN WHEN
ENGINE COMPARTMENT RELATED SERVICE IS
PERFORMED, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants
is not recommended, as they provide less freeze
protection and less corrosion protection.
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and
engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the
radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the
heat to the air.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equiva-
lent ethylene glycol base coolant with organic corro-
sion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled
water to obtain a freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it
loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush,
and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solu-
tion.
CAUTION: MoparTAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be
mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of
coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other
HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not
be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and
decreased corrosion protection.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water
mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating
conditions. The coolant performance of various mix-
tures follows:
Pure Water-Water can absorb more heat than a
mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for pur-
pose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a
higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol-The corrosion
inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the pres-
ence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives
form deposits in system. These act as insulation
causing temperature to rise to as high as 149ÉC
(300ÉF). This temperature is hot enough to melt plas-
Fig. 4 API RATING WRAP FIGURE
Fig. 5 DIESEL OIL VISCOSITY CHART
DRLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 3
FLUID TYPES (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(9)On vehicles equipped with adjustable
brake pedal.Reconnect the electrical connector to
the motor and the adjuster cable at the pedal.
(10) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
All models use a tandem diaphragm, power brake
booster.
NOTE: The power brake booster is not a repairable
component. The booster must be replaced as an
assembly if diagnosis indicates a malfunction has
occurred.
OPERATION
The booster unit consists of a single housing
divided into two by a tandem diaphragm. The outer
edge of the diaphragm is secured to the housing. The
booster push rod, which connects the booster to the
brake pedal and master cylinder, is attached to the
center of the diaphragm. A check valve is used in the
booster outlet connected to the engine intake mani-
fold. Power assist is generated by utilizing a combi-
nation of vacuum and atmospheric pressure to boost
brake assist.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove master cylinder. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER CYLINDER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect vacuum line at booster.
(3) Remove clip securing booster push rod to brake
pedal (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/PEDAL - REMOVAL). (Fig. 53).
(4) Remove the nuts from the booster mounting
studs (Fig. 53).
(5) Remove the booster and gasket from front cowl
panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Guide the booster studs into the cowl panel
holes and seat the booster on the panel (Fig. 53).
(2) Install and tighten new booster attaching nuts
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the booster push rod on brake pedal and
install clip (Fig. 53).
(4) Install the booster check valve if removed and
connect the vacuum hose to the check valve.
(5) Install the master cylinder. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Fill and bleed the brake system. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 52 PEDAL ASSEMBLY (ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
SHOWN)
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY BRACKET
3 - MOUNTING NUT
4 - BRAKE & ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS
Fig. 53 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
PEDAL (Continued)

HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE
BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour thereshould be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
(2) With the engine off depress the brake pedal
several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp
the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it
does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the
booster must be replaced.
SEAL LEAKAGE
If the booster leaks from any of the seals the
booster assembly must be replaced (Fig. 54).
²INPUT ROD SEAL:Fluid leakage from rear
end of the booster.
²PISTON SEAL:Fluid leakage from vent at
front of booster.
²HOUSING SEAL:Fluid leakage between hous-
ing and housing cover.
²SPOOL VALVE SEAL:Fluid leakage near
spool plug.
²RETURN PORT FITTING SEAL:Fluid leak-
age from port fitting.
Fig. 54 Hydraulic Booster Seals
1 - PUMP
2 - GEAR
3 - INPUT SEAL
4 - HOUSING SEAL
5 - ACCUMULATOR SEAL
6 - PISTON SEAL
7 - SPOOL PLUG SEAL
8 - RETURN
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASEDR

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLANT LEVEL
CHECK
NOTE: Do not remove radiator cap for routine cool-
ant level inspections. The coolant level can be
checked at coolant recovery bottle or the coolant
degas bottle.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR CAP WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOT
AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT OR HIGH PRESSURE STEAM CAN
OCCUR.
The coolant reserve/overflow system provides a
quick method for determining the coolant level with-
out removing the radiator pressure cap. With the
engine at normal operating temperature and idling,
observe the level of the coolant on the external level
indicator on the side of the coolant reserve / overflow
bottle. The coolant level should be between the MIN
and MAX marks. If the coolant is below the MIN
mark, add a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water to
the bottle until the level reaches the MIN mark.Do
Not Overfill the bottle by adding fluid above
the MAX line.This may cause coolant to spill onto
the ground during subsequent vehicle operation.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM
CLEANING/REVERSE FLUSHING
CLEANING
Drain the cooling system and refill with water. Run
the engine with the radiator cap installed until the
upper radiator hose is hot. Stop the engine and drain
the water from system. If the water is dirty, fill the
system with water, run the engine and drain the sys-
tem. Repeat this procedure until the water drains
clean.
REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forc-
ing of water through the cooling system. This is done
using air pressure in the opposite direction of normal
coolant flow. It is usually only necessary with very
dirty systems with evidence of partial plugging.
REVERSE FLUSHING RADIATOR
Disconnect the radiator hoses from the radiator
inlet and outlet. Attach a section of the radiator hose
to the radiator bottom outlet fitting and insert the
flushing gun. Connect a water supply hose and air
supply hose to the flushing gun.CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not
exceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may
result.
Allow the radiator to fill with water. When the
radiator is filled, apply air in short blasts. Allow the
radiator to refill between blasts. Continue this
reverse flushing until clean water flows out through
the rear of the radiator cooling tube passages.
REVERSE FLUSHING ENGINE
Drain the cooling system. Remove the thermostat
housing and thermostat. Install the thermostat hous-
ing. Disconnect the radiator upper hose from the
radiator and attach the flushing gun to the hose. Dis-
connect the radiator lower hose from the water pump
and attach a lead-away hose to the water pump inlet
fitting.
CAUTION: On vehicles equipped with a heater water
control valve, be sure the heater control valve is
closed (heat off). This will prevent coolant flow with
scale and other deposits from entering the heater
core.
Connect the water supply hose and air supply hose
to flushing gun. Allow the engine to fill with water.
When the engine is filled, apply air in short blasts,
allowing the system to fill between air blasts. Con-
tinue until clean water flows through the lead away
hose.
Remove the lead away hose, flushing gun, water
supply hose and air supply hose. Remove the thermo-
stat housing and install the thermostat. Install the
thermostat housing with a replacement gasket. Refer
to Thermostat Replacement. Connect the radiator
hoses. Refill the cooling system with the correct anti-
freeze/water mixture. Refer to Refilling the Cooling
System.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
In some instances, use a radiator cleaner (Mopart
Radiator Kleen or equivalent) before flushing. This
will soften scale and other deposits and aid flushing
operation.
CAUTION: Follow manufacturers instructions when
using these products.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM - ALL GAS ENGINES
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
DRCOOLING 7 - 17
COOLING (Continued)

DESCRIPTION - HOAT COOLANT
WARNING: ANTIFREEZE IS AN ETHYLENE-GLYCOL
BASE COOLANT AND IS HARMFUL IF SWAL-
LOWED OR INHALED. IF SWALLOWED, DRINK
TWO GLASSES OF WATER AND INDUCE VOMIT-
ING. IF INHALED, MOVE TO FRESH AIR AREA.
SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT
STORE IN OPEN OR UNMARKED CONTAINERS.
WASH SKIN AND CLOTHING THOROUGHLY AFTER
COMING IN CONTACT WITH ETHYLENE-GLYCOL.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. DISPOSE OF
GLYCOL BASE COOLANT PROPERLY, CONTACT
YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR
LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR
AREA. DO NOT OPEN A COOLING SYSTEM WHEN
THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR
HOT UNDER PRESSURE, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT. AVOID RADIATOR COOLING FAN WHEN
ENGINE COMPARTMENT RELATED SERVICE IS
PERFORMED, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: Use of Propylene-Glycol based coolants
is not recommended, as they provide less freeze
protection and less corrosion protection.
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and
engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the
radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the
heat to the air.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equiva-
lent ethylene-glycol base coolant with organic corro-
sion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% ethylene-glycol and 50% distilled
water to obtain a freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it
loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush,
and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solu-
tion.
CAUTION: MoparTAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be
mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of
coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other
HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not
be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and
decreased corrosion protection.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water
mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating
conditions. The coolant performance of various mix-
tures follows:
Pure Water-Water can absorb more heat than a
mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for pur-
pose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a
higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol-The corrosion
inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the pres-
ence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives
form deposits in system. These act as insulation
causing temperature to rise to as high as 149ÉC
(300ÉF). This temperature is hot enough to melt plas-
tic and soften solder. The increased temperature can
result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent
ethylene-glycol freezes at -22ÉC (-8ÉF).
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water-Is the recom-
mended mixture, it provides protection against freez-
ing to -37ÉC (-34ÉF). The antifreeze concentration
must alwaysbe a minimum of 44 percent, year-
round in all climates. If percentage is lower, engine
parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protec-
tion against freezing is provided with a 68 percent
antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing
down to -67.7ÉC (-90ÉF). A higher percentage will
freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher per-
centage of antifreeze can cause the engine to over-
heat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than
that of water.
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
COOLANT SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a
freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it loses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
7 - 32 ENGINEDR
COOLANT (Continued)

ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not operate an engine without a ther-
mostat, except for servicing or testing. An engine
with the thermostat removed will operate in the
radiator bypass mode, causing an overheat condi-
tion.
The thermostat of the 5.9L diesel engine is located
in the front of the cylinder head, underneath the
thermostat housing (Fig. 25).
The same thermostat is used for winter and sum-
mer seasons. An engine should not be operated with-
out a thermostat, except for servicing or testing.
Operating without a thermostat will cause overheat-
ing.
OPERATION
The wax pellet is located in a sealed container at
the spring end of the thermostat. When heated, the
pellet expands, overcoming closing spring tension
and water pump pressure to force the valve to open.
Fig. 24 Thermostat and Thermostat Housing 3.7L/4.7L
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - THERMOSTAT LOCATION3 - THERMOSTAT AND GASKET
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 25 Thermostat±5.9L Diesel-Typical
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - CYLINDER HEAD
3 - THERMOSTAT
7 - 46 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 3.7L/4.7L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - THERMOSTAT
The cooling system used with the diesel engine
provides the extra coolant capacity and extra cooling
protection needed for higher GVWR (Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating) and GCWR (Gross Combined Weight
Rating) vehicles.
This system capacity will not effect warm up or
cold weather operating characteristics if the thermo-
stat is operating properly. This is because coolant
will be held in the engine until it reaches the ther-
mostat ªsetº temperature.
Diesel engines, due to their inherent efficiency are
slower to warm up than gasoline powered engines,
and will operate at lower temperatures when the
vehicle is unloaded. Because of this, lower tempera-
ture gauge readings for diesel versus gasoline
engines may, at times be normal.
Typically, complaints of low engine coolant temper-
ature are observed as low heater output when com-
bined with cool or cold outside temperatures.
To help promote faster engine warm-up, the elec-
tric engine block heater must be used with cool or
cold outside temperatures. This will help keep the
engine coolant warm when the vehicle is parked.
A ªCold Weather Coverº is available from the parts
department through the Mopar Accessories product
line. This accessory cover is designed to block airflow
entering the radiator and engine compartment to
promote faster engine warm-up. It attaches to the
front of the vehicle at the grill opening.The cover is
to be used with cool or cold temperatures only.
If used with high outside temperatures, serious
engine damage could result.Refer to the litera-
ture supplied with the cover for additional informa-
tion.
(1) To determine if the thermostat is defective, it
must be removed from the vehicle (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT THERMO-
STAT - REMOVAL).
(2) After the thermostat has been removed, exam-
ine the thermostat and inside of thermostat housing
for contaminants. If contaminants are found, the
thermostat may already be in a ªstuck openº position.
Flush the cooling system before replacing thermostat
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Place the thermostat into a container filled
with water.
(4) Place the container on a hot plate or other suit-
able heating device.
(5) Place a commercially available radiator ther-
mometer into the water.
(6) Apply heat to the water while observing the
thermostat and thermometer.
(7) The thermostat will begin to open at 85.5 -
89.4ÉC. (186 - 193ÉF ). If the valve starts to movebefore this temperature is reached, it is opening too
early. Replace thermostat. The thermostat should be
fully open (valve will stop moving) at 97ÉC (207ÉF). If
the valve is still moving when the water temperature
reaches 97ÉC (207ÉF), it is opening too late. Replace
thermostat. If the valve refuses to move at any time,
replace thermostat.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Drain cooling system until coolant level is
below thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094).
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove radiator hose clamp and hose from
thermostat housing.
(4) Remove the three (3) water outlet-to-cylinder
head bolts and remove the water outlet connector
(Fig. 26).
(5) Clean the mating surfaces of the water outlet
connector and clean the thermostat seat groove at
the top of the thermostat housing (Fig. 26).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect thermostat seal for cuts or nicks.
Replace if damaged.
(2) Install the thermostat into the groove in the
top of the cylinder head (Fig. 26).
(3) Install the thermostat housing and bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 10 N´m (89 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the radiator upper hose and clamp.
(5) Fill the cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7
- COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Connect the battery negative cables.
DRENGINE 7 - 47
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)