1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Vacuum hose

POSITION INTERPRETATION CODE = DESCRIPTION
4 Gross Vehicle Weight Rating G = 5,001-6000 lbs.
H = 6,001-7,000 lbs.
J = 7,001-8,000 lbs.
K = 8,001-9,000 lbs.
L = 9,001-10,000 lbs.
M = 10,001-14,000 lbs.
W = Buses/Incomplete Vehicles with Hydraulic Brakes
5 Vehicle Line A = Ram Pickup 4X2
U = Ram Pickup 4X4
N = Ram Pickup 4X2 DX Family
6 Series 1 = 1500
2 = 2500
3 = 3500 Less Dual Rear Wheels
4 = 3500 With Dual Rear Wheels
5 = 4000 DX Family
7 Body Style 6 = Conventional Cab/Cab Chassis
8 = Quad Cab Full Rear Doors
8 Engine K = 3.7L 6 cyl. MPI Gasoline
N = 4.7L 8 cyl. MPI Gasoline
D = 5.7L 8 cyl. SMPI Gasoline
6 = 5.9L 6 cyl. Turbo Diesel 24v
C = 5.9L 6 cyl. Turbo Diesel High Output
9 Check Digit 0 through 9 or X
10 Model Year 4 = 2004
11 Plant Location S = Dodge City
G = Saltillo
J = St. Louis (North)
12 thru 17 Vehicle Build Sequence
VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL
INFORMATION (VECI)
DESCRIPTION
All models have a Vehicle Emission Control Infor-
mation (VECI) Label. DaimlerChrysler permanently
attaches the label in the engine compartment (Fig.
2). The label cannot be removed without defacing
label information and destroying label.
The label contains the vehicle's emission specifica-
tions and vacuum hose routings. All hoses must be
connected and routed according to the label.
The label also contains an engine vacuum sche-
matic. There are unique labels for vehicles built for
sale in the state of California and the country of
Canada. Canadian labels are written in both the
English and French languages.
The VECI label contains the following:
²Engine family and displacement
²Evaporative family
²Emission control system schematic
²Certification application
²Engine timing specifications (if adjustable)²Idle speeds (if adjustable)
²Spark plug and gap
Fig. 2 VEHICLE EMISSIONS CERTIFICATION
INFORMATION LABEL
1 - VECI LABEL LOCATION
2 - RADIATOR SUPPORT
2 INTRODUCTIONDR
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (Continued)

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 44).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 45).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
Fig. 44 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 45 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

(9)On vehicles equipped with adjustable
brake pedal.Reconnect the electrical connector to
the motor and the adjuster cable at the pedal.
(10) Install the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
All models use a tandem diaphragm, power brake
booster.
NOTE: The power brake booster is not a repairable
component. The booster must be replaced as an
assembly if diagnosis indicates a malfunction has
occurred.
OPERATION
The booster unit consists of a single housing
divided into two by a tandem diaphragm. The outer
edge of the diaphragm is secured to the housing. The
booster push rod, which connects the booster to the
brake pedal and master cylinder, is attached to the
center of the diaphragm. A check valve is used in the
booster outlet connected to the engine intake mani-
fold. Power assist is generated by utilizing a combi-
nation of vacuum and atmospheric pressure to boost
brake assist.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove master cylinder. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER CYLINDER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect vacuum line at booster.
(3) Remove clip securing booster push rod to brake
pedal (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/PEDAL - REMOVAL). (Fig. 53).
(4) Remove the nuts from the booster mounting
studs (Fig. 53).
(5) Remove the booster and gasket from front cowl
panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Guide the booster studs into the cowl panel
holes and seat the booster on the panel (Fig. 53).
(2) Install and tighten new booster attaching nuts
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the booster push rod on brake pedal and
install clip (Fig. 53).
(4) Install the booster check valve if removed and
connect the vacuum hose to the check valve.
(5) Install the master cylinder. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Fill and bleed the brake system. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 52 PEDAL ASSEMBLY (ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
SHOWN)
1 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
2 - PEDAL ASSEMBLY BRACKET
3 - MOUNTING NUT
4 - BRAKE & ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS
Fig. 53 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
PEDAL (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
INCONSISTENT (ERRATIC,
CYCLES OR FLUCTUATES)1. Heavy duty cooling system,
extreme cold ambient (outside)
temperature or heater blower motor
in high position.1. None. System operating normally.
NOTE: Information on daash cluster
is displayed based on broadcast
data from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensore circuit wiring.2. Temperature gauge or sensor
defective.2. Check cluster or engine coolant
temp sensor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Temporary heavy usage or load. 3. None. Normal condition.
4. Air trapped in cooling system. 4. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
5. Water pump 5. Replace water pump.
6. Air leak on suction side of water
pump.6. Check for leak. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
RADIATOR CAP LEAKING STEAM
AND /OR COOLANT INTO
RESERVOIR BOTTLE.
(TEMPERATURE GAUGE MAY
READ HIGH)1. Radiator cap defective. 1. Replace radiator cap.
2. Radiator neck surface damaged. 2. Replace radiator.
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
reservoir/overflow system.1. Replace radiator cap, check vent
hose between radiator and reservoir
bottle for blockage also check
reservoir bottle vent for blockage.
NOISY FAN 1. Fan blade(s) loose, damaged. 1. Replace fan blade assembly.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive.2. None. Normal condition.
3. Fan blades striking surrounding
objects.3. Locate contact point and repair
as necessary.
4. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive bearing concern.4. Check viscous fan drive (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
5. Electronically controlled viscous
fan stuck on.5. Check viscous fan drive(Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
6. Obstructed air flow through
radiator.6. Remove obstruction.
DRCOOLING 7 - 9
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE READING
HIGH OR HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY OR MAY
NOT BE READING HIGH1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating
and repair as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture is too rich or too
lean.2. Check coolant concentration.
(Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
reserve/overflow system.1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve
stuck. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE
CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Replace if necessary
(b) Hose between coolant
reserve/overflow tank and radiator is
kinked. Repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow
tank is plugged. Clean vent and
repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is
internally blocked or plugged. Check
for blockage and repair as
necessary.
NOISY VISCOUS FAN/DRIVE 1. Fan blades loose. 1. Replace fan blade assembly.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)
2. Fan blades striking a surrounding
object.2. Locate point of fan blade contact
and repair as necessary.
3. Air obstructions at radiator or air
conditioning condenser.3. Remove obstructions and/or
clean debris or insects from radiator
or A/C condenser.
4. Thermal viscous fan drive has
defective bearing.4. Replace fan drive. Bearing is not
serviceable. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
5. A certain amount of fan noise
may be evident on models
equipped with a thermal viscous fan
drive. Some of this noise is normal.5. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DESCRIPTION) for an explanation
of normal fan noise.
DRCOOLING 7 - 15
COOLING (Continued)

OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing
the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator
where the cooling fins in the radiator transfers the
heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold
weather the ethylene-glycol or propylene-glycol cool-
ant prevents water present in the cooling system
from freezing within temperatures indicated by mix-
ture ratio of coolant to water.
COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER- GAS ENGINES
DESCRIPTION
The coolant reserve/overflow tank is mounted on
top of the fan shroud, and is made of high tempera-
ture plastic (Fig. 1).
OPERATION
The coolant reserve/overflow system works in con-
junction with the radiator pressure cap. It utilizes
thermal expansion and contraction of coolant to keep
coolant free of trapped air. It provides a volume for
expansion and contraction of coolant. It also provides
a convenient and safe method for checking coolant
level and adjusting level at atmospheric pressure.
This is done without removing the radiator pressure
cap. The system also provides some reserve coolantto the radiator to cover minor leaks and evaporation
or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-
ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and
returned to a proper level in the radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove recovery hose from radiator.
(2) Remove the coolant container to fan shroud
mounting bolt.
(3) Tilt the container backward towards the engine
to disengage the mounting pin locking features and
lift the container away from the fan shroud (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the coolant container mounting pins into
the slots on the fan shroud and push the container
onto the fan shroud.
(2) Secure the container to the fan shroud with the
bolt. Tighten to 8.5N´m (75 in-lbs).
NOTE: Ensure that the locking feature on the
mounting pins has engaged.
(3) Connect the recovery hose to the radiator (Fig.
1).
RADIATOR FAN - GAS
ENGINES
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Remove coolant reserve/overflow container from
fan shroud and lay aside.Do Notdisconnect the
hoses or drain coolant from the container.
(3) The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assem-
bly is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub
shaft (Fig. 3). Remove the fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly from the water pump by turning the
mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from the
front. Threads on the viscous fan drive areRIGHT-
HAND.A 36 MM Fan Wrench should be used to pre-
vent pulley from rotating (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Coolant Recovery Bottle - Gas Engine
1 - SCREW
2 - COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 - RADIATOR/RADIATOR CAP
4 - FAN SHROUD
DRENGINE 7 - 33
COOLANT (Continued)

loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 97-to-
124 kPa (14-to-18 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in the cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve
to open and coolant in the reserve/overflow container
to be drawn through the recovery hose connecting
the filler neck and reserve/overflow container. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or the recovery hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
CAP-TO-FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be tested by removing overflow hose from
the radiator filler neck tube. Attach the hose of the
pressure tester tool 7700 (or equivalent) to the tube.
It will be necessary to disconnect hose from its
adapter for the filler neck. Pump air into radiator.
The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve at 69
to 124kPa (10 to 18 psi) and hold pressure at a min-
imum of 55 kPa (8 psi).
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS, ºDO NOT OPEN
HOTº, ON RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, ARE A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, RADIATOR CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE SYSTEM IS HOT AND/OR
UNDER PRESSURE.
Do not remove the radiator cap at any timeexcept
for the following purposes:
²Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
²Refill the system with new antifreeze.
²Conducting service procedures.
²Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING CAP DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUID TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW HOSE INTO RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO
DETERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN
RELEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
Remove the cap from the radiator. Be sure that the
sealing surfaces are clean. Moisten the rubber gasket
with water and install the cap on the pressure tester
7700 or an equivalent (Fig. 41).
Operate the tester pump to bring the pressure to
104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap
fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi)
replace the cap. Refer to the followingCAUTION.
Fig. 40 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
7 - 58 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)