1997 JAGUAR XJ6 lock

12Remove the four bolts in each camshaft
inner sprocket (see illustration). The bolts are
secured by sheetmetal “washer” plates. Bend
down the locking tabs with a hammer and
screwdriver tip to remove the bolts.
Caution: Stuff rags below the sprockets
while removing the bolts to prevent a bolt
from falling down into the front cover.
13Remove the two bolts retaining the upper
chain guide to the cylinder head (see
illustration).
14Pull the inner sprockets from each
camshaft (see illustration). Each camshaft
sprocket is comprised of an inner and outer,
each with a set of fine splines that lock them
together. The outer sprockets, with the teeth,
can rotate on the camshafts until the inner
sprocket bolts are tightened.
15Pull the outer sprockets from the
camshafts and allow the chain slacken.
16At this point the camshafts can be
carefully lifted straight up and off the cylinder
head. Take care not to nick any of the lobes or
journals during removal.
17Use a magnet to remove the lifters,
keeping them in order in a divided, numbered
box (see illustration). They must be returned
to their original location if reusing the original
camshafts!
18Removing the lifters exposes the
adjusting shims, sitting in a pocket in eachvalve spring retainer (see illustration). Keep
the shims with their matching lifters. Measure
the thickness of each shim with a micrometer
and record the measurements.
Inspection
19After the camshaft has been removed
from the engine, cleaned with solvent and
dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven
wear, pitting and evidence of seizure. If the
journals are damaged, the bearing surfaces in
the cylinder head and caps may be damaged
as well, requiring renewal of the cylinder head.
20Measure the bearing journals with a
micrometer to determine if they are excessivelyworn or out-of-round (see illustration).
Compare the measurements to Specifications.
21Check the camshaft lobes for heat
discolouration, score marks, chipped areas,
pitting and uneven wear. Measure the lobe
heights with a micrometer and record the
measurements (see illustrations). If there is
variance of more than 0.005-inch, the
camshaft and lifters must be renewed. If the
lobes are in good condition, the camshaft can
be reused.
22Inspect the top, bottom and side surfaces
of the lifters for wear, grooving or scoring. If
the lifters are damaged, the camshaft and its
lifters must be renewed as a set.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11
2A
10.13 Remove the two bolts and the upper
timing chain guide (arrowed)10.14 Pull the inner sprocket from the
outer sprocket of each camshaft
10.17 A magnet can be used to remove
the lifters (arrowed)10.18 The valve adjustment shims
(arrowed) fit into a pocket in the valve
spring retainer - use a magnet to remove
the shims and keep them with their
respective lifters10.20 Measure the bearing journals with a
micrometer to check diameter - measure
at several places around the journal to
check for taper or out-of-round
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.12 Bend back the locking tabs
(arrowed) and remove the camshaft
sprocket bolts
10.21a Measure the camshaft lobe at its
greatest dimension . . .10.21b . . . and subtract the camshaft lobe
diameter at its smallest dimension to
obtain the lobe lift

Refitting
23If the valve clearance for any valve is
incorrect, as measured in paragraph 4, refit a
thicker or thinner shim on that valve. For
example, if the clearance had been too large
by 0.004-inch (compared to the recommended
clearance in the Specifications), replace the
existing shim there with a new one that is
0.004-inch thicker. If the clearance was too
small, use a shim that is smaller than the
original. Shims are identified alphabetically, in
sizes from 0.085-inch (designated size A, the
smallest) to 0.108-inch (designated size X, the
thickest).
24Lubricate the lifters with a thin coat of
moly-based lubricant on the top, bottom and
sides and refit them in their original positions.
25Lubricate the camshafts with moly-based
grease on the journals and lobes and lay them
carefully in their bearing saddles.
26Using NEW cylinder head bolts, replace
the spacers, one at a time, with the bearing
caps and bolts. Tighten the cap bolts, then
the cylinder head bolts to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. The front capshould be installed first, then cap number 7,
then alternately tighten the first and last caps
to bring the camshaft down evenly. Next refit
caps 4, 2, 3, 5, and 6.
27Align the intake camshaft with the special
camshaft positioning tool as described in
paragraph 5. Engage the outer sprocket with
the chain, slip the sprocket over the end of the
camshaft, then turn it until there is no slack in
the chain to the right of the camshaft sprocket
(facing the front of the engine). Now align the
inner sprocket with the camshaft until the bolt
holes align and mesh the splines between the
two sprocket halves (see illustrations).
Tighten the inner sprocket bolts to the
camshaft and bend the locking sheetmetal
tabs over the bolts.
28Keeping the slack in the chain to the left
of the exhaust camshaft, refit the exhaust
camshaft outer sprocket, meshed with the
chain, over the end of the exhaust camshaft.
Insert the timing chain tensioner tool (Jaguar
tool no. 18G 1436) at the upper tensioner
mounting point (see illustration). Note:The
chain tensioner tool applies pressure to the
upper timing chain to simulate the effect of thetensioner, which is operated by engine oil
pressure when the engine is running.
29Align the exhaust camshaft to TDC with
the special timing gauge tool. Tighten the
centre bolt in the tensioner tool to 4 to 6 Nm.
When the chain is tensioned, align the inner
exhaust sprocket with the bolt holes in the
camshaft, engage the splines between the
two sprocket halves and secure the sprocket
with the bolts and locking tabs. Refit the clip
to secure the two sprocket halves together.
30Clean the tensioner gasket surface, fit a
new gasket and O-rings, push the ratchet
down and twist it to maintain the fully
retracted position, and refit the tensioner in
place of the tensioning tool (see illustration).
Note:Align the slot in the end of the tensioner
straight up and down to fit over the tang on
the back of the chain tensioner guide.
31Rotate the engine and recheck that all
valve clearance measurements are now
correct (see paragraph 4).
32The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
the removal procedure. Note:When refitting
the distributor, use a new O-ring where it fits
into the engine block.
2A•12 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.27a Each camshaft sprocket is comprised of two sections, an
inner (A) and outer (B) that are splined together
10.27b Push the outer sprocket over the intake camshaft until it
locks in place - then turn the sprocket left to remove chain slack
at the right
10.28 The special tensioning tool simulates the operation of the
oil-driven tensioner - apply 4 to 6 Nm (36 to 48 inch-pounds)
pressure on the centre bolt (arrowed)10.30 Upper timing chain tension components
A Notch (to align
with tang on guide)B Tensioner ratchet
C O-ringD Gasket
E valve (with O-rings)

11 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
4
Note:The engine must be completely cool
before beginning this procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant from the engine block and
radiator (see Chapter 1).
3Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
(see Chapter 1).
4Remove the bonnet for easier access, if
necessary (see Chapter 11).
5Remove the intake manifold (see Section 5).
6Remove the exhaust manifolds (Section 6).
7Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
8Refer to Section 3 and Position the engine
at TDC for cylinder number 1. Remove the
distributor (see Chapter 5).
9Remove the camshafts and sprockets (see
Section 10). Place the upper chain between
the two upper chain guides and wrap a large
rubber band around the two guides, retaining
the chain and guides.
10Remove the coolant housing from the
cylinder head (see illustration).
11Remove the cylinder head-to-front cover
bolts (see illustration).
12Using a socket and breaker bar, loosen
the cylinder head bolts in quarter-turn
increments until they can be removed by
hand. Loosen the cylinder head bolts using
the opposite of the recommended tightening
sequence (see illustration 11.23)to avoid
warping or cracking the cylinder head.
13Lift the cylinder head off the engine block.
If it’s stuck, very carefully pry up at the
transmission end, beyond the gasket surface.
Caution: Though the cylinder head is
aluminium, it is still heavy, large andawkward to handle. To avoid damaging the
body during removal, use an engine hoist
to lift the cylinder head out of the engine
compartment, or have an assistant help
you.
14With the cylinder head on a workbench,
remove all external components from the
cylinder head to allow for thorough cleaning
and inspection. See Chapter 2, Part B, for
cylinder head servicing procedures.
Refitting
15The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and engine block must be perfectly clean
when the cylinder head is installed.
16Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or
acetone. If there’s oil on the mating surfaces
when the cylinder head is installed, the gasket
may not seal correctly and leaks could
develop. When working on the engine block,
stuff the cylinders with clean workshop rags
to keep out debris. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove material that falls into the cylinders.
Caution: Use care when cleaning the
cylinder head gasket surface. The cylinder
head and engine block are aluminium and
can be easily damaged by using sharpscraping tools. Gasket removal solvents
are available from car accessory outlets
and may be useful for safe removal of
gasket material.
17Check the engine block and cylinder head
mating surface for nicks, deep scratches and
damage from coolant corrosion. If damage is
slight, it can be removed with a file; if it’s
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative. See Part B of this Chapter for
procedures and criteria concerning the repair
of corrosion damage.
18Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the cylinder head bolt holes, then
clean the holes with compressed air - make
sure that nothing remains in the holes.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
19Remove the rear cover from the cylinder
head. Clean the gasket surface and refit the
cover with a new gasket (see illustration).
Place the side of the gasket with the sealer
bead against the cylinder head, do not use
sealant on this gasket.
20Fabricate two alignment studs from the
old head bolts. Cut off the heads, then slot the
ends with a hacksaw (see illustration). New
cylinder head bolts must be used when
refitting the head.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13
2A
11.19 Remove the rear cover from the
cylinder head, clean the gasket surfaces
and refit the cover with a new gasket
(arrowed) - note that the printed-on sealer
bead is placed against the cylinder head11.20 Fabricate two alignment studs from
old cylinder head bolts and refit them in
the engine block - after the cylinder head
is installed, remove the two studs
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.10 Disconnect the hoses and remove the bolts to separate the
coolant housing (arrowed) from the cylinder head
11.11 Remove the bolts (arrowed) securing the cylinder head
to the front cover

21There are variations in cooling holes in
some models. Before refitting the cylinder
head gasket, carefully check all of the
passages and bolt holes in the new cylinder
head gasket to be sure it matches your engine
block. Also make sure the new cylinder head
gasket you’re using is equipped with the
improved oil transfer hole seal (see
illustration). Position the cylinder head gasket
over the dowel pins in the engine block, make
sure TOP is facing up (see illustration).
22Carefully place the cylinder head on the
engine block without disturbing the gasket.
23Refit NEW cylinder head bolts and
following the recommended sequence,
tighten the bolts in two steps to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications(see
illustration). Step 2 of the tightening
sequence requires the bolts to be tightened
and additional 90°. An angle-torque
attachment for your torque wrench is available
at car accessory outlets. This tool provides
precision when the angle-torque method is
required and its use is highly recommended. If
the tool is not available, paint a mark on the
edge of each cylinder head bolt and tighten
the bolt until the mark is 90¡ from the startingpoint. After the cylinder head bolts are
tightened, tighten the cylinder head-to-timing-
cover bolts.
24The remaining refitting steps are the
reverse of removal. Refer to Section 10 for
replacing the camshaft sprockets and
adjusting the timing chain and tensioner. Refill
the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
25Run the engine and check for oil or
coolant leaks. Adjust the ignition timing (see
Chapter 5) and road test the car.
12 Sump- removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 Note:The sump cannot be removed with
the engine in the chassis without lowering the
front suspension and crossmember. This is a
difficult procedure for the home mechanic
without a vehicle hoist and some other
specialised tools. The other alternative
requires the engine be removed from the car
and mounted on a stand, as we haveillustrated here. Refer to Part B of this Chapter
for engine removal procedures.
2Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
(see Chapter 1).
3Remove the bolts and detach the sump
(see illustration).
4If it’s stuck, pry it loose very carefully with a
small screwdriver or putty knife (see
illustration). Don’t damage the mating
surfaces of the pan and engine block or oil
leaks could develop.
2A•14 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.21a Only use a head gasket with the improved oil transfer seal
(right arrow) - the older style (left arrow) is prone to oil leaks
11.21b Place the new head gasket over the dowels in the engine
block - note the markings for UP or TOP printed on the gasket
11.23 Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING sequence12.3 Remove the sump bolts (arrowed)
12.4 Pry at the recess in the front of the
sump to break the gasket seal - insert a
putty knife, if necessary, between the
sump and engine block

Refitting
5Remove all traces of old gasket material
and sealant from the engine block and sump.
Clean the mating surface with lacquer thinner
or acetone.
Caution: Do not use a sharp scraping tool.
Both the sump and the engine block are
aluminium and could be easily damaged.
6Make sure the threaded bolt holes in the
engine block and bellhousing are clean.
7Inspect the flange of the sump for any
cracks, pits or scratches that could cause an
oil leak.
8Remove the baffle plate at the rear of the
sump (see illustration). Clean the sump area
and the baffle, then refit the baffle.
9Inspect the oil pump pickup tube for
cracks, or foreign material blocking the screen
(see illustration).
10Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sump
flange(see illustration). Note:The sump
must be installed within 5 minutes of sealer
application.
11Carefully position the sump on the engine
block and push it toward the transmission
adapter plate as you press it against the
engine block. Loosely refit four bolts, two on
each side of the sump. Tighten the four bolts
in a criss-cross pattern to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, then loosen
each bolt 90°.
12Refit the two engine adapter-to-sump
bolts. Tighten the two bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, then
loosen each one 180°.
13Refit the remainder of the sump-to-engine
block bolts hand tight until all are installed,
then tighten them to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Lastly, tighten the
two adapter-to-sump bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Caution: Failure to follow this tightening
procedure could stress or possibly crack
the adapter plate.
14The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to add oil and refit a new oil
filter.
15Run the engine and check for oil pressure
and leaks.13 Oil pump- removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the sump (see Section 12).
2Unbolt the oil pickup tube and oil transfer
housing from the engine block (see
illustration). Note:Have a drain pan under the
transfer housing, as oil may drip out when the
housing is loosened from the engine block.
3Carefully pull the transfer housing and
transfer tubes to the rear to separate them
from the oil pump body.
4Bend back the locking tabs and remove thethree bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the oil pump (see illustration).
Pull the chain and sprocket from the front of
the pump. Note:There are shims between the
sprocket and the pump. Collect them while
pulling off the sprocket.
5Remove the bolts and detach the oil pump
from the engine.
6Remove all traces of sealant and old gasket
material from the oil pump body and engine
block, then clean the mating surfaces with
lacquer thinner or acetone.
7Remove the screws and separate the front
and rear pump covers from the body. Lift out
the drive and driven rotors (see illustrations).
Note:Mark the front face of each rotor before
removing them.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•15
2A
12.8 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and the
sheetmetal baffle plate - clean the sump
area of the sump with the baffle removed12.9 Lubrication system components
A Oil pump
B Transfer tubesC Transfer housing
D Oil pump pickup12.10 Apply a bead of RTV sealant around
the perimeter of the sump mounting
flange, be sure to run the bead around the
outside all bolt the holes
13.7a Remove the bolts and separate the
front and rear pump covers13.7b Remove the outer rotor (A)
and inner rotor (B)
13.2 Unbolt the oil pump pickup (A) and
the bolts (B) retaining the transfer
assembly (C) to the engine block13.4 Pry back the locking tabs and remove
the three bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the pump
3261 Jaguar XJ6

Inspection
8Clean and dry the pump body and both
rotors. Measure the outside diameter of the
outer rotor and thickness of both rotors.
9Place the outer rotor into the pump body
and use feeler gauges to measure the
clearance between the outer rotor and the
body (see illustration).
10Place a straightedge across the pump
body and measure between the straightedge
and the rotors to check the over-the-rotor
clearance (see illustration). Compare your
measurements to this Chapter’s Specifications
and renew the oil pump if any are beyond the
maximum allowable.
11Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap.
Remove and clean the relief valve components
(see illustration).
12Clean all components with solvent and
inspect them for wear and damage. If
excessive wear, damage or if any clearance is
beyond the Specifications, renew the entire
pump as an assembly.
13Check the oil pressure relief valve piston
sliding surface and valve spring. If either the
spring or the valve is damaged, they must be
renewed as a set.
Refitting
14Lubricate the drive and driven rotors with
clean engine oil and place them in the casewith the marks facing out. Apply a thin coat
of anaerobic sealant (Loctite 510 or 518) to
the gasket flange and refit the cover (see
illustration).
15Lubricate the oil pressure relief valve
piston with clean engine oil and refit the valve
components into the oil pump body (see
illustration 13.11).
16Apply a thin coat of anaerobic sealant
(Loctite 510 or 518) to the oil pump-to-engine
block-mounting surface, position the oil pump
body against the engine block and refit the
mounting bolts, tightening the bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Follow a criss-cross pattern when tightening
the bolts to avoid warping the oil pump body.
17If using the original oil pump, refit the
original sprocket shim pack (see illustration).
If a new pump is installed, start off with a
0.38 mm (0.015-inch) thick shim pack, refit the
drive sprocket and align the sprocket as
follows.
18Use a straightedge to check the alignment
of the oil pump sprocket with the crankshaft
sprocket (see illustration). If they are not
aligned, increase or decrease the shim pack at
the oil pump sprocket until alignment is correct,
then secure the oil pump sprocket bolts by
bending up the sheetmetal tabs. Note:You
may be able to use all or part of the original
shim pack from the original oil pump (if a new
pump is being fitted). If required, shims areavailable in 0.127 mm (0.005 inch), 0.254 mm
(0.010 inch) and 0.508 mm (0.020 inch) sizes.
19Fit new O-rings to each end of the transfer
tubes and refit the tubes into the transfer
housing. Note:Use petroleum jelly to lubricate
the O-rings.
20Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the
engine block-mounting surface of the transfer
housing. Lift the transfer housing and tubes
into place and push the front of the tubes
in the back of the oil pump, until you can start
the transfer housing-to-engine block bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
21Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal.
22Add oil, start the engine and check for oil
pressure and leaks.
23Recheck the engine oil level.
14 Driveplate-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Raise the car and support it securely on
axle stands, then refer to Chapter 7 and
remove the transmission. If it’s leaking, now
would be a very good time to renew the front
pump seal/O-ring.
2A•16 Engine in-car repair procedures
13.9 Measure the outer rotor-to-body
clearance with feeler gauges (arrowed)13.10 With a straightedge held tight to the
pump surface, measure the clearance over
the rotors with feeler gauges13.11 Oil pressure relief valve components
A Relief valve cap
B TubeC Spring
D Valve
13.14 Apply a thin coat anaerobic sealant
(Loctite 510 or 518) to the pump cover
sealing surface
13.17 Refit the original shim pack
(arrowed) if the original pump is being
used - if a new pump is being installed,
refit a 0.38 mm (0.015-inch) shim pack
3261 Jaguar XJ6
13.18 Check the oil pump and crankshaft
sprocket alignment with a straightedge -
add or subtract shims until the sprockets
are aligned for smooth chain operation

2Use a centre punch or paint to make
alignment marks on the driveplate and
crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during
refitting(see illustration).
3Remove the bolts that secure the driveplate
to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns,
wedge a screwdriver through a hole in the
driveplate to keep it from turning (see
illustration).
4Remove the driveplate from the crankshaft.
A spacer is located behind the driveplate(see
illustration). Pry it off and store it with the
driveplate.
Warning: The ring-gear teeth
may be sharp, wear gloves to
protect your hands when
handling the driveplate.
Refitting
5Clean the driveplate to remove grease and
oil. Inspect the surface for cracks. Check for
cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Note:If
there is any damage to the driveplate, replace
the driveplate with a new driveplate, a new
spacer and new bolts. Improved parts are
available as a set from the dealer.
6Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the driveplate and the crankshaft. If the
crankshaft rear seal is leaking, renew it before
refitting the driveplate (see Section 15).
7Position the driveplate against the
crankshaft. Be sure to align the marks made
during removal. Some models may have an
alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to
ensure correct refitting. Before refitting the
bolts, apply thread-locking compound to the
bolt threads.
8Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth
to keep the driveplate from turning and tighten
the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Follow a criss-cross pattern
and work up to the final torque in three or four
steps.
9The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
the removal procedure.
15 Crankshaft rear oil seal-
renewal
4
1The transmission adapter plate and
driveplate must be removed from the car for
this procedure (see Chapter 7).
2Remove the bolts, and detach the oil seal
retainer. Remove the gasket material from the
block and the seal retainer (see illustration).
3Position the oil seal and retainer assembly
between two wood blocks on a workbench
and drive the old seal out from the backside
(see illustration).
4The new seal must be driven into the
retainer plate from the engine side. Drive thenew seal into the retainer with a wood block
or a section of pipe slightly smaller in diameter
than the outside diameter of the seal (see
illustration). The seal should be driven in only
until it is flush with the transmission side of
the retainer.
Caution: The new seal comes with a
special plastic refitting sleeve inserted in
the seal. It is designed to allow the seal to
slide over the end of the crankshaft
without displacing the seal lip. Do NOT
remove this plastic sleeve until the retainer
and seal have been installed on the engine.
5Lubricate the seal area of the crankshaft
with engine oil. Apply a bead of RTV sealant
to the sealing surface of the retainer (see
illustration).
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•17
2A
14.2 Mark the driveplate and the
crankshaft so they can be reassembled in
the same relative position14.3 Use a screwdriver to secure the
flywheel while the bolts are removed14.4 Pry off the driveplate spacer - if a
driveplate is replaced, the spacer should
be replaced also
15.2 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and the
crankshaft rear oil seal retainer from the
back of the engine block15.3 After removing the retainer assembly
from the engine block, support it between
two wood blocks and drive out the old seal
with a drift punch and hammer
15.4 Drive the new seal into the retainer
with a wood block
3261 Jaguar XJ6
15.5 Apply RTV sealant
to the sealing surface

6Slowly and carefully press the seal and
retainer squarely onto the crankshaft (see
illustration). The plastic sleeve may be
pushed out as the retainer seats on the engine
block. Remove the plastic sleeve.
7Refit and tighten the retainer bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8The remaining steps are the reverse of
removal.
16 Engine mounts-
check and renewal
3
1Engine mounts seldom require attention,
but broken or deteriorated mounts should be
renewed immediately or the added strain
placed on the driveline components may
cause damage or wear.
Check
2During the check, the engine must be
raised to remove the weight from the mounts.3Raise the car and support it securely on
axle stands, then position a jack under the
engine sump. Place a large wood block
between the jack head and the sump, then
carefully raise the engine just enough to take
the weight off the mounts. Do not position the
wood block under the drain plug.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it’s supported by a jack!
4Check the front mounts to see if the rubber
is cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal plates. Sometimes the rubber will split
down the centre.
5Check for relative movement between the
mount plates and the engine or frame (use a
large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt to
move the mounts). If movement is noted,
lower the engine and tighten the mount
fasteners.
6Rubber preservative should be applied to
the mounts to slow deterioration.
Renewal
7Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
8Raise the car and support it securely on
axle stands. Support the engine as described
in paragraph 3.
Caution: Ensure the cooling fan doesn’t hit
the shroud as the engine is raised.
9To remove either engine mount, remove the
nut from the engine bracket, then raise the
engine (see illustration).
10From underneath the car, lower the
steering gear (see Chapter 10) for access to
the nut retaining the insulator to the chassis
bracket.
11Refitting is the reverse of removal. Use
thread-locking compound on the mount
bolts/nuts and be sure to tighten them
securely.
12See Chapter 7 for transmission mount
renewal.
2A•18 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 15.6 Refit the retainer and oil seal onto the crankshaft
16.9 Front engine mount (A)
and retaining nut to engine bracket (B)