1997 JAGUAR XJ6 oil level

working up to it in three steps. Note:Use the
old bolts for this step (save the new bolts for
final refitting).Use a thin-wall socket to avoid
erroneous torque readings that can result if
the socket is wedged between the rod cap
and nut. If the socket tends to wedge itself
between the nut and the cap, lift up on it
slightly until it no longer contacts the cap. Do
not rotate the crankshaft at any time during
this operation.
16Remove the nuts and detach the rod cap,
being careful not to disturb the Plastigauge.
17Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge to the scale printed on the
envelope to obtain the oil clearance (see
illustration). Compare it to this Chapter’s
Specifications to make sure the clearance is
correct.
18If the clearance is not as specified, the
bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required). Before
deciding that different inserts are needed,
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the journal diameter. If the Plastigauge
was wider at one end than the other, the journal
may be tapered (refer to Section 19).
Final connecting rod refitting
19Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the rod journal and/or
bearing face. Be very careful not to scratchthe bearing, use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card to remove the Plastigauge.
20Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly
clean, then apply a uniform layer of clean
moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to
both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
higher into the cylinder to expose the face of
the bearing insert in the connecting rod, be
sure to slip the protective hoses over the
connecting rod bolts first.
21At this time, remove the original
connecting rod bolts/nuts and replace them
with new bolts/nuts. They are of a design
which requires they be used only once. The
old ones are OK for Plastigauge checking, but
for final assembly use only new connecting
rod bolts/nuts. Refit the rod cap and tighten
the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Again, work up to the torque in
three steps.
22Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining pistons/connecting rod assemblies.
23The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the back sides of the bearing inserts
and the insides of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean during assembly..
b) Make sure you have the correct piston/
connecting rod assembly for each
cylinder.
c) The dimple on the piston must face the
front of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder walls with clean oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing faces when refitting
the rod caps after the oil clearance has
been checked.
24After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand to check for any obvious binding.
25As a final step, the connecting rod
endplay must be checked. Refer to Section 13
for this procedure.
26Compare the measured endplay to this
Chapter’s Specifications to make sure it’s
correct. If it was correct before dismantling
and the original crankshaft and connecting
rods were reinstalled, it should still be right.
However, if new connecting rods or a new
crankshaft were installed, the endplay may beinadequate. If so, the connecting rods will
have to be removed and taken to an
automotive machine workshop for resizing.
26 Initial start-up
and running-in after overhaul
1
Warning: Have a suitable fire
extinguisher handy when starting
the engine for the first time.
1Once the engine has been installed in the
vehicle, double-check the engine oil and
coolant levels.
2With the spark plugs out of the engine and
the ignition system and fuel pump disabled,
crank the engine until oil pressure registers on
the gauge or the light goes out.
3Refit the spark plugs, hook up the plug
leads and restore the ignition system and fuel
pump functions.
4Start the engine. It may take a few
moments for the fuel system to build up
pressure, but the engine should start without
a great deal of effort.
5After the engine starts, it should be allowed
to warm up to normal operating temperature.
While the engine is warming up, make a
thorough check for fuel, oil and coolant leaks.
6Shut the engine off and recheck the engine
oil and coolant levels.
7Drive the vehicle to an area with no traffic,
accelerate from 30 to 50 mph, then allow the
vehicle to slow to 30 mph with the throttle
closed. Repeat the procedure 10 or 12 times.
This will load the piston rings and cause them
to seat properly against the cylinder walls.
Check again for oil and coolant leaks.
8Drive the vehicle gently for the first
500 miles (no sustained high speeds) and
keep a constant check on the oil level. It is not
unusual for an engine to use oil during the
running-in period.
9At approximately 500 to 600 miles, change
the oil and filter.
10For the next few hundred miles, drive the
vehicle normally. Do not pamper it or abuse it.
11After 2000 miles, change the oil and filter
again and consider the engine run-in.
2B•18 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
25.17 Measure the width of the crushed
Plastigauge to determine the big-end
bearing oil clearance
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
3
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
General
Radiator cap pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.5 to 117.5 psi
Thermostat rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 to 207° F
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pipe to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan assembly-to-drive hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat housing-to-block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Water pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21 Air conditioning and heating system - check and maintenance . . . . 13
Air conditioning compressor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Air conditioning condenser - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air conditioning evaporator and expansion valve - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Air conditioning receiver/drier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Antifreeze/coolant - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant temperature sender unit - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine cooling fans - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Engine oil cooler - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater and air conditioning blower motors -circuit check
and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater and air conditioning control assembly -
check, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater core - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator, expansion tank and coolant reservoir -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Underbonnet hose check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Water pump - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Water pump and pipes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
Engine cooling system
All vehicles covered by this manual employ a
pressurised engine cooling system with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circulation.
An impeller type water pump mounted on the
front of the block pumps coolant through the
engine. The coolant flows around each cylinder
and toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in
coolant passages direct coolant around the
intake and exhaust ports, near the spark plug
areas and in proximity to the exhaust valve
guides.A wax-pellet type thermostat is located in
the thermostat housing at the front of the
engine. During warm up, the closed
thermostat prevents coolant from circulating
through the radiator. When the engine
reaches normal operating temperature, the
thermostat opens and allows hot coolant to
travel through the radiator, where it is cooled
before returning to the engine.
The cooling system is sealed by a pressure-
type radiator cap. This raises the boiling point
of the coolant, and the higher boiling point of
the coolant increases the cooling efficiency
of the radiator. If the system pressure exceeds
the cap pressure-relief value, the excess
pressure in the system forces the spring-
loaded valve inside the cap off its seat and
allows the coolant to escape through the
overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. Whenthe system cools, the excess coolant is
automatically drawn from the reservoir back
into the radiator. This type of cooling system is
known as a closed design because coolant
that escapes past the pressure cap is saved
and reused.
The Jaguar cooling system on 1988 and
1989 models has both a manifold tank and a
coolant recovery tank. The manifold tank is the
highest point in the cooling system and is the
location of the “radiator” cap (the cap is not on
the radiator). The recovery tank down in the
passenger’s footwell collects heated coolant
as described above. Models from 1990 to
1994 do not have a coolant recovery tank, but
have an enlarged manifold tank. In all models,
the recovery tank has a sensor in it to detect a
low coolant level, and the instrument panel has
a warning light to that effect.

Heating system
The heating system consists of two blower
fans, one under the dash on the right and one
on the left, and a heater core located within
the heater/air conditioning assembly which is
under the dash and behind the console.
Hoses connect the heater core to the engine
cooling system. Heater function is controlled
by the heater/air conditioning control head on
the dashboard. Hot engine coolant is
circulated through the heater core. When the
heater mode is activated, a flap door opens to
expose the heater box to the passenger
compartment. A fan switch on the control
head activates the blower motor, which forces
air through the core, heating the air.
Air conditioning system
The air conditioning system consists of a
condenser mounted in front of the radiator, an
evaporator mounted in the heat/air
conditioning assembly behind the console and
under the centre of the dash, a compressor
mounted on the engine, a filter-drier which
contains a high pressure relief valve and the
plumbing connecting all of the above.
A blower fan forces the warmer air of the
passenger compartment through the
evaporator core (sort of a radiator-in-reverse),
transferring the heat from the air to the
refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off into
low pressure vapour, taking the heat with it
when it leaves the evaporator. The
compressor keeps refrigerant circulating
through the system, pumping the warmed
coolant through the condenser where it is
cooled and then circulated back to the
evaporator.
2 Antifreeze/coolant-
general information
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately withplenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if
ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying
around in an open container or in puddles
on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by it’s sweet smell and may drink
it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Many
communities have collection centres which
will see that antifreeze is disposed of
safely. Never dump used antifreeze on the
ground or into drains.
Note:Non-toxic antifreeze is now
manufactured and available at local car
accessory outlets, but even these types
should be disposed of properly.
The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene-glycol based antifreeze
solution, which will prevent freezing down to
at least -20° F, or lower if local climate
requires it. It also provides protection against
corrosion and increases the coolant boiling
point.
The cooling system should be drained,
flushed and refilled every 24,000 miles or
every two years (see Chapter 1). The use of
antifreeze solutions for periods of longer than
two years is likely to cause damage and
encourage the formation of rust and scale in
the system. If your tap water is “hard”, i.e.
contains a lot of dissolved minerals, use
distilled water with the antifreeze.
Before adding antifreeze to the system,
check all hose connections, because
antifreeze tends to leak through very minute
openings. Engines do not normally consume
coolant. Therefore, if the level goes down, find
the cause and correct it.
The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water
you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. The mixture should
contain at least 50-percent antifreeze, but
should never contain more than 70-percent
antifreeze. Consult the mixture ratio chart on
the antifreeze container before adding
coolant. Hydrometers are available at most
car accessory outlets to test the ratio
of antifreeze to water (see illustration). Use
antifreeze which meets the vehicle
manufacturer’s specifications.
3 Thermostat-
check and renewal
2
Warning: Do not attempt to
remove the radiator cap, coolant
or thermostat until the engine
has cooled completely.
Check
1Before assuming the thermostat is
responsible for a cooling system problem,
check the coolant level (Chapter 1), drivebelt
tension (Chapter 1) and temperature gauge (or
light) operation.
2If the engine takes a long time to warm up
(as indicated by the temperature gauge or
heater operation), the thermostat is probably
stuck open. Renew the thermostat.
3If the engine runs hot, use your hand to
check the temperature of the lower radiator
hose.
Warning: Do this check with the
engine off. Do not get your
hands near the fan blades. If the
hose is not hot, but the engine
is, the thermostat is probably stuck in the
closed position, preventing the coolant
inside the engine from travelling through
the radiator. Renew the thermostat. Do not
drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The
computer may stay in open loop and
emissions and fuel economy will suffer.
4If the lower radiator hose is hot, it means
that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat
is open. Consult the Troubleshootingsection
at the front of this manual for further diagnosis.
Renewal
5Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
6Drain the coolant from the radiator (see
Chapter 1).
7Remove the bolts from the thermostat
cover (see illustration). If the cover doesn’t
3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6 2.4 An inexpensive hydrometer can be
used to test the condition of your coolant
3.7 Remove the two bolts (small arrows)
holding the thermostat cover to the
housing (large arrow)

5If equipped with an automatic transmission,
disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator
(see illustrations). Disconnect the cooling fan
switch connector (see illustration 4.15).
Place a drip pan to catch the fluid and cap the
fittings. Note:The transmission oil cooler lines
enter the radiator on the left, while the power
steering cooler lines attach on the right side of
the radiator. On 1993 and 1994 models, the
cooler fittings require a spring-lock coupling
tool, normally used on fuel lines or air
conditioning lines.
6Remove the four bolts from the radiator
cowl panel and take off the panel (see
illustration).
7Lift out the radiator. Be aware of dripping
fluids and the sharp fins. Take care not to
damage the radiator fins by contact with other
parts.
8With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks, damage and internal
blockage. If repairs are necessary, have a
radiator specialist or dealer service department
perform the work, as special techniques are
required. Check the rubber mounting pads on
the bottom of the radiator (see illustration). If
they’re cracked or damaged, get new ones
before refitting the radiator.
9Bugs and dirt can be cleaned from the
radiator with compressed air and a soft brush.
Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done.
Warning: Wear eye protection.
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure the rubber mounts are in
place on the bottom of the radiator.
11After refitting, fill the cooling system with
the proper mixture of antifreeze and water.
Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary.
12Start the engine and check for leaks.
Allow the engine to reach normal operating
temperature, indicated by both radiator hoses
becoming hot. Recheck the coolant level and
add more if required.
13On automatic transmission equipped
models, check and add fluid as needed and
check the power steering fluid level as well.
Expansion tank and coolant
reservoir, removal and refitting
14The expansion tank is located at the top
of the left-hand side inner wing. With the
cooling system drained below the level of the
expansion tank, remove the hoses, the
coolant level probe and the two screws
mounting it to the body (see illustration).
15Wash out and inspect the reservoir for
cracks and chafing. Renew it if damaged.16If the low-coolant level light has been
showing on the instrument panel, even when
the coolant level is correct, disconnect the
sensor’s connector and test it with an
ohmmeter (see illustration). The sensor
should be renewed if the resistance at the
connections is over 150 ohms.
Caution: Using a long-necked funnel to
add coolant can damage the sensor, which
is just below the expansion tank filler neck.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
3
5.5a At the left side of the radiator,
disconnect the automatic transmission
cooler lines (small arrows) and the lower
radiator hose (larger arrow)5.5b Disconnect the power steering cooler
lines (small arrows) at the right side of the
radiator, and the upper radiator hose
(large arrow)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 5.3 Remove the clamp and the hose going
to the expansion tank
5.6 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and take
off the radiator cowl panel
5.14 The expansion tank is located on the
left inner wing
A Hose to recovery tank (where applicable)
B Hose to radiator
C Hose to thermostat housing
D Hose to water pump housing
E Mounting screws
F Low-coolant-level sensor
5.8 There are rubber mounts (arrowed)
for the radiator and the condenser -
they must be in place when these
components are reinstalled
5.16 The low-coolant-level sensor can be
tested with an ohmmeter - resistance
should be below 150 ohms - gently use a
pair of long-neck pliers to move the sensor
up and down in the tank to get a reading

4Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
5Run the engine and check for proper
functioning of the heater (and air conditioning,
if equipped).
Control checks
6The climate-control system uses an all-
electronic control panel that sends digital
information to the climate control computer.
There is little the home mechanic can do to
troubleshoot or test the system. The factory
recommends that diagnosis be performed at a
dealership.
7If there is a problem in just one area of
climate control, put the controls through their
entire range of operation and check the
system responses, i.e. set the controls to
COLD, the fan to low and the temperature to
65° F. In this mode the Manual LED should be
lit and the air conditioning compressor should
engage. Try all of the fan speeds and try the
temperature on HOT, then feel for warm air
coming from the ducts. Note:Between each
try of the different controls, wait 20 seconds or
so for the heater/air conditioning system to
adjust before checking for a response.
8When each control button is pushed two
times, its LED light should go on or off. Renew
the control assembly if any of the warning
lights don’t work.
9On 1988 and 1989 models, if the climate
controls do not respond to any driver input,
check with your Jaguar dealer before
renewing the ECU or control panel. A service
part is available (a resistor, #JLM 1901) that
can be installed at one of the control panel
terminals that may fix the problem without any
other parts being renewed. Instructions are
included with the part.
10Check the vacuum lines to the several
vacuum motors that operate the heater/air
conditioning functions. Look for pinched or
blocked hoses and leaks.11Each of the vacuum “servo motors” in the
system can be checked with a hand-held
vacuum pump (see illustration). Apply vacuum
and watch that the door or control it operates is
working.
12Further diagnosis of the controls or
climate control ECU are best left to a Jaguar
dealership or other qualified repair facility.
13 Air conditioning and heating
system- check and
maintenance
1
Air conditioning system
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any hose fittings
or remove any components until
the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved
recovery/recycling unit by a dealer service
department or an automotive air
conditioning repair facility. Always wear
eye protection when working near air
conditioning system fittings.
1The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis to ensure that
the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:
a) Inspect the condition of the compressor
drivebelt. If it is worn or deteriorated,
renew it (see Chapter 1).
b) Check the drivebelt tension and, if
necessary, adjust it (see Chapter 1).
c) Inspect the system hoses. Look for
cracks, bubbles, hardening and
deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all
fittings for oil bubbles or seepage. If there
is any evidence of wear, damage or
leakage, renew the hose(s).d) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,
bugs and any other foreign material that
may have embedded itself in the fins. Use
a “fin comb” or compressed air to remove
debris from the condenser.
e) Make sure the system has the correct
refrigerant charge.
2It’s a good idea to operate the system for
about ten minutes at least once a month. This
is particularly important during the winter
months because long term non-use can
cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of
the seals.
3Leaks in the air conditioning system are
best spotted when the system is brought up
to operating temperature and pressure, by
running the engine with the air conditioning
ON for five minutes. Shut the engine off and
inspect the air conditioning hoses and
connections. Traces of oil usually indicate
refrigerant leaks.
4Because of the complexity of the air
conditioning system and the special
equipment required to effectively work on it,
accurate troubleshooting of the system
should be left to a professional technician.
5If the air conditioning system doesn’t
operate at all, check the fuse panel and the air
conditioning relay (refer to Chapter 12 for
relay locations and testing). See Sections 4, 9
and 12 for electrical checks of heating/air
conditioning system components.
6The most common cause of poor cooling is
simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a
noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine
if the refrigerant level is low.
Checking the refrigerant charge
7Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature.
8Place the air conditioning temperature
selector at the coldest setting and put the
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•11
3
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.3b Remove the four screws (three are shown here) holding the
control assembly in the control/radio housing
12.11 Check the operation of the vacuum servo motors; in this
case, vacuum is applied to the servo on the right blower case -
the flapper door (arrowed) should operate

3261 Jaguar XJ6
10
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering systems
General
Power steering fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front suspension
Balljoints
Retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 62 41 to 45
Ball stud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 to 68 35 to 50
Lower control arm
Spring pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 34 19 to 25
Pivot nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 to 68 32 to 50
Shock absorber
Lower nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 68 45 to 50
Upper nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 43 26 to 31
Anti-roll bar
Bushing bracket bolts
Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 20
Lower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 30 18 to 22
Link nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 60 41 to 44
Upper control arm pivot nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 75 45 to 55
Rear suspension
Carrier-to-control arm bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 80 51 to 59
Rear control arm-to-crossmember bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 105 62 to 77
Shock absorber/coil spring assembly
Lower shock-to-control arm bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 to 200 118 to 147
Upper shock-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 20
Steering
Steering wheel-to-steering shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33
Steering shaft-to-steering gear pinion shaft U-joint pinch bolt . . . . . . . 19 to 24 14 to 17
Steering gear mounting bracket bolts/nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 29 19 to 21
Tie-rod end-to-steering knuckle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 68 45 to 50 Anti-roll bar (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Balljoints - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Coil spring (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Control arm (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front wheel bearing - check, repack and adjustment . . See Chapter 1
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hub and bearing (rear) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hub carrier (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Lower control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Self-levelling rear suspension system - general information . . . . . . . 2
Shock absorber (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Shock absorber/coil spring (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Steering gear boots - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering knuckle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Suspension and steering checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tie-rod ends - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Upper control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Wheel alignment - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Wheel bearing lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Wheels and tyres - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
10•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, replaced with new ones of the
same part number or of original equipment
quality and design. Torque wrench settings
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Instead, renew any
bent or damaged part.
The front suspension (see illustrations)
consists of unequal-length upper and lower
control arms, shock absorbers and coil
springs. The upper ends of the shocks are
attached to the body; the lower ends
are attached to the lower control arms. The
upper ends of the coil springs are seated
against the suspension crossmember; the
lower ends are seated against removable
plates which are bolted to the lower control
arms. The steering knuckles are attached to
balljoints in the upper and lower control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the suspension
crossmember with a pair of bushing brackets
and to the lower control arms via a connecting
link at each end.The independent rear suspension (see
illustration)uses control arms and integral
shock absorber/coil spring units. The upper
ends of the shocks are attached to the body;
the lower ends are connected to the control
arms.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint on the lower end of the steering shaft, a
rack-and-pinion power steering gear, a power
steering pump and a pair of tie-rods which
connects the steering gear to the steering
knuckles (see illustration).
2 Self-levelling rear
suspension system
1988 to 1992 models were equipped with a
system that provided hydraulic power for the
rear suspension and for the power brakes. As
the vehicle is loaded or unloaded, the rear
suspension is automatically adjusted to
maintain a constant ride height.
The system was discontinued on 1993 and
later models, which are equipped with
conventional shock absorber/coil spring units.
A kit is available from your Jaguar dealer
should you decide to retrofit the later,
conventional shocks to a pre-1993 vehicle.
Complete instructions for refitting the kit are
included in Section 10.
3 Anti-roll bar (front)-
removal and refitting
2
1Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
2Remove the bolts from the anti-roll bar
brackets that attach the anti-roll bar to the
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the nuts that attach the anti-roll
bar to the links (see illustration). If you’re
replacing the links themselves, or removing
the control arm, remove the nuts attaching the
links to the lower control arms.
Suspension and steering systems 10•3
10
1.3 Rear suspension
1 Hub carrier 2 Control arms 3 Crossmember mounting brackets 4 Crossmember
3.2 To detach the anti-roll bar from the
suspension crossmember, remove these
two bolts (arrowed) from each bushing
bracket
3261 Jaguar XJ6

and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Refit the special spring compressor tool
(JD115) as shown (see illustrations).
3Tighten the tool until the spacer is tight
against the spring pan, then remove the
spring pan bolts (see illustration).
4Slowly back off the wingnut on the special
tool until all tension is relieved from the spring.
Remove the tool, remove the pan, and remove
the coil spring.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Place the
coil spring in position with the spring pan
below it, refit the special tool and carefully
tighten the wingnut until the spring is
compressed enough to allow the pan to be
positioned and bolted to the lower control
arm. Be sure to tighten the pan bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
9 Lower control arm-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The lower control arms
cannot be removed without a
special spring compressor tool
(Jaguar tool JD115). Do not try to
remove a lower control arm without this
tool, or you could be seriously injured.1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the spring pan and the coil spring
(see Section 8).
3Detach the steering gear (see Section 17)
and lower it far enough to provide clearance
for the lower control arm pivot bolt.
4Remove the pivot bolt and nut (see
illustration). Note any washers behind the nut
and store them in a plastic bag.
5Remove the lower control arm.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit any washers removed. Raise the
suspension with the trolley jack to simulate
normal ride height, then tighten the pivot bolt
and nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Refer to Section 8 for coil
spring refitting.
10 Shock absorber/coil spring
(rear)- removal and refitting
3
Note 1: Always renew both left and right
shocks at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
Note 2:If you’re replacing the shock absorbers
on an earlier vehicle with the self-levelling
system, we strongly recommend (and so doesJaguar) that you renew the self-levelling units
with conventional units (available at the dealer
as a retrofit kit for older vehicles equipped with
the self-levelling system).
1Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Support the
control arm with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood on the jack head to serve as a cushion.
2If you are removing/replacing the shocks on
a vehicle equipped with the self-levelling rear
suspension system, depressurise the system
by pumping the brake pedal until it feels hard
to push (this dissipates the pressure inside the
accumulator), then locate the hydraulic line
valve block just in front of the upper end of the
left rear shock (see illustration). Attach a
plastic hose to the bleeder screw (see
illustration), put the other end of the hose in a
catch bottle, crack the bleeder and drain off
as much fluid as possible. Disconnect the
hydraulic line that connects the left shock to
the valve block. Now locate the other valve
block just in front of the right rear shock;
disconnect the hydraulic line that connects
the right shock to this valve block too.
3Remove the lower shock absorber-to-
control arm nut and bolt (see illustration).
4Remove the upper mounting bolts (see
illustration)and remove the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
9.4 To detach the lower control arm from
the crossmember, remove this nut and bolt
(arrowed) (unbolt and lower the steering
gear before you can pull out the pivot bolt)10.2a On a vehicle equipped with self-
levelling rear suspension, the valve block
(arrowed) for the left rear shock is located
just in front of the shock absorber10.2b After depressurising the system,
attach a bleed hose to the bleed screw on
the left valve block, open the bleed and
drain any residual fluid into a catch bottle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.2a When refitting the spring compressor
tool (JD115), insert the upper end of the
rod into the cross-shaped slot in the
suspension crossmember, then rotate the
rod 90° so this pin on the upper end of the
tool locks into the crossmember
8.2b This is how the spring compressor
tool (JD115) looks when it’s installed; note
how the offset collet is oriented so that it’s
flush with the coil spring pan8.3 To detach the coil spring pan from the
lower control arm, compress the spring
and remove these six bolts (arrowed)