1997 JAGUAR XJ6 engine coolant

30 Coolant renewal
2
Warning: Do not allow engine
coolant (antifreeze) to come in
contact with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never
leave antifreeze laying around in an open
container or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by it’s
sweet smell and may drink it. Check with
local authorities about disposing of used
antifreeze. Your local authority may have
collection centres which will see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the
antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of
rust and corrosion, which can impair the
performance of the cooling system and
cause engine damage. When the cooling
system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator
cap should be checked and renewed if
necessary.
Draining
2Apply the handbrake and block the wheels.
If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several
hours to allow the engine to cool down before
beginning this procedure.
3Remove the expansion tank pressure cap
(see illustration).
4Move a large container under the radiator
drain to catch the coolant. Then using a largescrewdriver, open the radiator drain plug and
direct the coolant into the container (see
illustration).
27 Differential oil renewal
2
1Drive the car for several miles to warm up
the differential lubricant, then raise the car
and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and
the required tools under the car.
3Remove the check/fill plug from the
differential. If necessary refer to Section 9 for
the check/fill plug location.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
use a ratchet and socket to loosen the drain
plug (see illustration). Note:A special pipe
plug socket may be required to complete this
procedure.
5Once loosened, carefully unscrew it with
your fingers until you can remove it from the
case. Since the lubricant will be hot, wear a
rubber glove to prevent burns.
6Allow all of the oil to drain into the pan, then
replace the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 9 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the fill plug and tighten it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
28 Brake fluid renewal
2
Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling or
pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has
been standing open or is more than oneyear old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from
the air. Excess moisture can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
1At the specified time intervals, the brake
fluid should be drained and renewed. Since
the brake fluid may drip or splash when
pouring it, place plenty of rags around the
master cylinder to protect any surrounding
painted surfaces.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified type of brake fluid.
3Remove the cap from the master cylinder
reservoir.
4Using a hand suction pump or similar
device, withdraw the fluid from the master
cylinder reservoir.
5Add new fluid to the master cylinder until it
rises to the base of the filler neck.
6Bleed the brake system as described in
Chapter 9 at all four brakes until new and
uncontaminated fluid flows from the bleed
screw.
7Refill the master cylinder with fluid and
check the operation of the brakes. The pedal
should feel solid when depressed, with no
sponginess.
Warning: Do not drive the car if
you are in any doubt about the
braking system.
1•20Every 30 000 miles or 2 years
27.4 The differential drain plug (arrowed)
is accessible through a hole located in the
middle of the differential support brace
30.3 Push the expansion tank pressure
cap downward and rotate anti-clockwise -
never remove it when the engine is hot!
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
29 Handbrake shoes check
2
1Remove the rear discs and inspect the
handbrake shoes as described in Chapter 9. If
the shoes are worn or damaged they must be
renewed.Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

5After the coolant stops flowing out of the
radiator, move the container under the engine
block drain plug. Remove the plug and let the
coolant in the block to drain (see illustration).
6While the coolant is draining from the
engine block, check the condition of the
radiator hoses, heater hoses and clamps
(refer to Section 7 if necessary).
7Replace any damaged clamps or hoses
(see Chapter 3).
Flushing
8Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from agarden hose until water runs clear at the drain.
The flushing action of the water will remove
sediments from the radiator but will not
remove more serious rust and scale from the
engine and cooling tube surfaces.
9These deposits can be removed by using
proprietary chemical cleaners. It should be
stressed, however, that these should only
need to be used if the system has been
neglected. Follow the procedure outlined in
their manufacturer’s instructions. If the
radiator is severely corroded, damaged or
leaking, it should be removed (see Chapter 3)
and taken to a radiator repair workshop.10On 1988 and 1989 models remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose (see
Chapter 3).
Refilling
11Close and tighten the radiator drain. Refit
and tighten the engine block drain plugs.
12Make sure the heater temperature control
is in the maximum heat position.
13Slowly refill the expansion tank with a
mixture of antifreeze and water until the
coolant reaches the base of the filler neck.
14Leave the expansion tank pressure cap
off and run the engine in a well-ventilated area
until the thermostat opens (coolant will begin
flowing through the radiator and the upper
radiator hose will become hot). Race the
engine two or three times under no load.
15Turn the engine off and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the level back
up to the base of the filler neck.
16Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the expansion tank pressure
cap.
17Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature and check for leaks.
Every 2 years 1•21
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
30.4 The radiator drain fitting (arrowed)
located at the bottom of the radiator30.5 The block drain plug (arrowed) is
located on the right side of the block

Torque wrench settings*Nm lbf ft
Camshaft bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt
3.2 and 3.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 151
4.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 to 220 133 to 162
Crankshaft pulley to damper bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Crankshaft sensor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Cylinder head bolts
Step 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44
Step 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten an additional 90° (1/4 turn)
Driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 to 149 91 to 110
Engine mounts
To engine block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 to 66 36 to 39
To chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24 16 to 18
Exhaust manifold heat shield fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Intake manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Sump bolts, adapter to pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 to 54 36 to 40
Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 27 16 to 20
Valve cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 12 7 to 9
*Note:Refer to Part B for additional specifications
2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
1 General information
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-car
repair procedures for the in-line six-cylinder
engines. All information concerning engine
removal and refitting and engine block and
cylinder head overhaul can be found in Part B
of this Chapter.
The following repair procedures are based
on the assumption that the engine is installed
in the car. If the engine has been removed
from the car and mounted on a stand, many of
the steps outlined in this Part of Chapter 2 will
not apply. We have photographed some in-
car engine procedures with the engine on a
stand for photographic purposes.
The Specifications included in this Part of
Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures
contained in this Part. Part B of Chapter 2
includes the Specifications necessary for
cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.
2 Repair operations possible
with the engine in the car
Many repair operations can be
accomplished without removing the engine
from the car.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier and help keep dirt out of
the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, itmay be helpful to remove the bonnet to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint. Special pads are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal
renewal, the repairs can generally be made
with the engine in the car. The intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, crankshaft oil seals
and cylinder head gasket are all accessible
with the engine in place (although rear oil seal
renewal involves removal of the transmission).
The sump is difficult for a home mechanic to
replace without a hoist and other specialised
equipment, since the front suspension,
steering and crossmember must be lowered
to allow enough clearance for sump removal.
If such equipment is not available, the
alternative would be to remove the engine for
renewal of the sump or oil pump. Note:We
assume that the home mechanic does not
have access to the specialised equipment,
and have photographed our subject engine
out of the car for some procedures.
Exterior engine components, such as the
intake and exhaust manifolds, the water
pump, the starter motor, the alternator, the
distributor and the fuel system components
can be removed for repair with the engine in
place.
Since the cylinder head can be removed
with the engine in-car, camshaft and valve
component servicing can also be
accomplished. Renewal of the timing chains
and sprockets is also possible with the engine
in-car.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
number one piston- locating
1
Note:The following procedure is based on the
assumption that the distributor is correctly
installed. If you are trying to locate TDC to refit
the distributor correctly, piston position must
be determined by feeling for compression at
the number one spark plug hole, then aligning
the ignition timing marks (see paragraph 8).
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it
travels up the cylinder bore. Each piston
reaches TDC on the compression stroke and
again on the exhaust stroke, but TDC
generally refers to piston position on the
compression stroke.
2Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an
essential part of many procedures such as
camshaft and timing chain/sprocket removal
and distributor removal.
3Before beginning this procedure, be sure to
place the transmission in Neutral and apply
the handbrake or block the rear wheels. Also,
disable the ignition system by detaching the
coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap and grounding it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark
plugs (see Chapter 1).
4In order to bring any piston to TDC, the
crankshaft must be turned using one of the
methods outlined below. When looking at the
timing chain end of the engine, normal
crankshaft rotation is clockwise.
a) The preferred method is to turn the
crankshaft with a socket and ratchet

8Tighten the screws to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications in three or four
equal steps.
9Refit the remaining components, start the
engine and check for oil leaks.
5 Intake manifold-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Refer to Chapter 4 to remove the
accelerator and cruise-control linkage, safely
relieve the fuel system pressure, and
disconnect the fuel supply lines.
3Label or mark and detach the PCV and
vacuum hoses connected to the intake
manifold, (see illustration).
4The intake manifold can be removed with
the injectors and fuel rail still in place.
Disconnect the electrical connectors at
each injector (label them first for reassembly).
If the injectors are to be removed from the
intake manifold, refer to Chapter 4.
5Refer to Chapter 4 and remove the throttle
body.6Remove the three nuts retaining the oil filler
tube bracket, then pull the tube up as far as
possible (see illustrations).
7Remove the ground strap and intake
manifold mounting nuts/bolts, then detach the
intake manifold from the engine (see
illustrations).
Refitting
8Clean the mating surfaces of the intake
manifold and the cylinder head mounting
surface with lacquer thinner or acetone. If the
gasket shows signs of leaking, have the
manifold checked for warpage at an
automotive machine workshop and
resurfaced if necessary.
9Refit a new gasket, then position the intake
manifold on the cylinder head and refit the
nuts/bolts (see illustration).
10Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or four
equal steps to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Work from the
centre out towards the ends to avoid warping
the manifold.
11Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal.
12Before starting the engine, check the
throttle linkage for smooth operation.
13Run the engine and check for coolant and
vacuum leaks.
14Road test the car and check for proper
operation of all accessories, including the
cruise control system.
6 Exhaust manifolds-
removal and refitting
2
Warning: The engine must be
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2On 1990 and later models, disconnect the
EGR pipe and remove the EGR valve from the
top of the exhaust manifold (see Chapter 6).
3Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust
manifold mounting nuts/bolts, and the nuts
retaining the exhaust pipes to the manifolds.
After the nuts have soaked, remove the nuts
retaining the exhaust pipes to the manifolds
and the lower bolt from the heat shield (see
illustration).
4Remove the heat shield from the exhaust
manifolds(see illustration).
5Disconnect the electrical connector to the
oxygen sensor. Unless the oxygen sensor is
being renewed, leave the sensor in place.
6Remove the nuts/bolts and detach the
manifolds and gaskets (see illustration).
2A•4 Engine in-car repair procedures
5.3 The various hoses should be marked
to ensure correct refitting5.6a Remove the oil filler tube bracket
nuts (arrowed) . . .5.6b . . . pull the tube up to dislodge it
from the housing - it won’t come out, but
can be removed with the intake manifold
5.7a Remove the ground strap from the
front stud (arrowed), and the engine wiring
harness clips from the other studs5.7b Remove the intake manifold bolts/
nuts and remove the intake manifold - the
upper fasteners are studs/nuts, while the
lower row are bolts (two arrowed)5.9 Refit the new intake manifold gasket
over the studs (arrowed) refit the manifold
3261 Jaguar XJ6

11 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
4
Note:The engine must be completely cool
before beginning this procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant from the engine block and
radiator (see Chapter 1).
3Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
(see Chapter 1).
4Remove the bonnet for easier access, if
necessary (see Chapter 11).
5Remove the intake manifold (see Section 5).
6Remove the exhaust manifolds (Section 6).
7Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
8Refer to Section 3 and Position the engine
at TDC for cylinder number 1. Remove the
distributor (see Chapter 5).
9Remove the camshafts and sprockets (see
Section 10). Place the upper chain between
the two upper chain guides and wrap a large
rubber band around the two guides, retaining
the chain and guides.
10Remove the coolant housing from the
cylinder head (see illustration).
11Remove the cylinder head-to-front cover
bolts (see illustration).
12Using a socket and breaker bar, loosen
the cylinder head bolts in quarter-turn
increments until they can be removed by
hand. Loosen the cylinder head bolts using
the opposite of the recommended tightening
sequence (see illustration 11.23)to avoid
warping or cracking the cylinder head.
13Lift the cylinder head off the engine block.
If it’s stuck, very carefully pry up at the
transmission end, beyond the gasket surface.
Caution: Though the cylinder head is
aluminium, it is still heavy, large andawkward to handle. To avoid damaging the
body during removal, use an engine hoist
to lift the cylinder head out of the engine
compartment, or have an assistant help
you.
14With the cylinder head on a workbench,
remove all external components from the
cylinder head to allow for thorough cleaning
and inspection. See Chapter 2, Part B, for
cylinder head servicing procedures.
Refitting
15The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and engine block must be perfectly clean
when the cylinder head is installed.
16Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or
acetone. If there’s oil on the mating surfaces
when the cylinder head is installed, the gasket
may not seal correctly and leaks could
develop. When working on the engine block,
stuff the cylinders with clean workshop rags
to keep out debris. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove material that falls into the cylinders.
Caution: Use care when cleaning the
cylinder head gasket surface. The cylinder
head and engine block are aluminium and
can be easily damaged by using sharpscraping tools. Gasket removal solvents
are available from car accessory outlets
and may be useful for safe removal of
gasket material.
17Check the engine block and cylinder head
mating surface for nicks, deep scratches and
damage from coolant corrosion. If damage is
slight, it can be removed with a file; if it’s
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative. See Part B of this Chapter for
procedures and criteria concerning the repair
of corrosion damage.
18Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the cylinder head bolt holes, then
clean the holes with compressed air - make
sure that nothing remains in the holes.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
19Remove the rear cover from the cylinder
head. Clean the gasket surface and refit the
cover with a new gasket (see illustration).
Place the side of the gasket with the sealer
bead against the cylinder head, do not use
sealant on this gasket.
20Fabricate two alignment studs from the
old head bolts. Cut off the heads, then slot the
ends with a hacksaw (see illustration). New
cylinder head bolts must be used when
refitting the head.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13
2A
11.19 Remove the rear cover from the
cylinder head, clean the gasket surfaces
and refit the cover with a new gasket
(arrowed) - note that the printed-on sealer
bead is placed against the cylinder head11.20 Fabricate two alignment studs from
old cylinder head bolts and refit them in
the engine block - after the cylinder head
is installed, remove the two studs
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.10 Disconnect the hoses and remove the bolts to separate the
coolant housing (arrowed) from the cylinder head
11.11 Remove the bolts (arrowed) securing the cylinder head
to the front cover

21There are variations in cooling holes in
some models. Before refitting the cylinder
head gasket, carefully check all of the
passages and bolt holes in the new cylinder
head gasket to be sure it matches your engine
block. Also make sure the new cylinder head
gasket you’re using is equipped with the
improved oil transfer hole seal (see
illustration). Position the cylinder head gasket
over the dowel pins in the engine block, make
sure TOP is facing up (see illustration).
22Carefully place the cylinder head on the
engine block without disturbing the gasket.
23Refit NEW cylinder head bolts and
following the recommended sequence,
tighten the bolts in two steps to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications(see
illustration). Step 2 of the tightening
sequence requires the bolts to be tightened
and additional 90°. An angle-torque
attachment for your torque wrench is available
at car accessory outlets. This tool provides
precision when the angle-torque method is
required and its use is highly recommended. If
the tool is not available, paint a mark on the
edge of each cylinder head bolt and tighten
the bolt until the mark is 90¡ from the startingpoint. After the cylinder head bolts are
tightened, tighten the cylinder head-to-timing-
cover bolts.
24The remaining refitting steps are the
reverse of removal. Refer to Section 10 for
replacing the camshaft sprockets and
adjusting the timing chain and tensioner. Refill
the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
25Run the engine and check for oil or
coolant leaks. Adjust the ignition timing (see
Chapter 5) and road test the car.
12 Sump- removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 Note:The sump cannot be removed with
the engine in the chassis without lowering the
front suspension and crossmember. This is a
difficult procedure for the home mechanic
without a vehicle hoist and some other
specialised tools. The other alternative
requires the engine be removed from the car
and mounted on a stand, as we haveillustrated here. Refer to Part B of this Chapter
for engine removal procedures.
2Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
(see Chapter 1).
3Remove the bolts and detach the sump
(see illustration).
4If it’s stuck, pry it loose very carefully with a
small screwdriver or putty knife (see
illustration). Don’t damage the mating
surfaces of the pan and engine block or oil
leaks could develop.
2A•14 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.21a Only use a head gasket with the improved oil transfer seal
(right arrow) - the older style (left arrow) is prone to oil leaks
11.21b Place the new head gasket over the dowels in the engine
block - note the markings for UP or TOP printed on the gasket
11.23 Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING sequence12.3 Remove the sump bolts (arrowed)
12.4 Pry at the recess in the front of the
sump to break the gasket seal - insert a
putty knife, if necessary, between the
sump and engine block

6Refit the compression gauge in the spark
plug hole (see illustration).
7Crank the engine over at least seven
compression strokes and watch the gauge.
The compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which doesn’t build up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown cylinder head gasket (a
cracked cylinder head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
Record the highest gauge reading obtained.
8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders and compare the results to this
Chapter’s Specifications.
9Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder,
through the spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
10If the compression increases after the oil
is added, the piston rings are definitely worn.
If the compression doesn’t increase
significantly, the leakage is occurring at the
valves or cylinder head gasket. Leakage past
the valves may be caused by burned valve
seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent
valves.
11If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compression, there’s a strong possibility that
the cylinder head gasket between them is
blown. The appearance of coolant in the
combustion chambers or the crankcase
would verify this condition.
12If one cylinder is 20 percent lower than the
others, and the engine has a slightly rough
idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft
could be the cause.
13If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If that’s the case, the
cylinder head(s) should be removed and
decarbonised.
14If compression is way down or varies
greatly between cylinders, it would be a goodidea to have a leak-down test performed by
an automotive repair workshop. This test will
pinpoint exactly where the leakage is
occurring and how severe it is.
5 Engine removal-
methods and precautions
If you’ve decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep tools clean and
organised.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.
If the engine is being removed by a novice,
a helper should be available. Advice and aid
from someone more experienced would also
be helpful. There are many instances when
one person cannot simultaneously perform all
of the operations required when lifting the
engine out of the vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange
for or obtain all of the tools and equipment
you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
the equipment necessary to perform engine
removal and refitting safely and with relative
ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a
heavy duty trolley jack, complete sets of
spanners and sockets as described in the
front of this manual, wooden blocks and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and petrol. If
the hoist must be rented, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance and perform all of the
operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine workshop will be
required to perform some of the work which
the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without
special equipment. These shops often have a
busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to
consult them before removing the engine in
order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine. Serious injury can
result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take
your time and a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully.
6 Engine- removal and refitting
3
Note:Read through the entire Section before
beginning this procedure. It is recommended
to remove the engine and transmission from
the top as a unit, then separate the engine
from the transmission on the workshop floor. If
the transmission is not being serviced, it is
possible to leave the transmission in the
vehicle and remove the engine from the top by
itself, by removing the crankshaft damper and
tilting up the front end of the engine for
clearance,but access to the upper
bellhousing bolts is only practical when the
rear transmission mount and driveshaft have
been removed and the transmission is angled
down with a trolley jack.
Removal
1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
3Place protective covers on the wings and
cowl and remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
4Remove the battery and battery tray.
5Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
6Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Drain the cooling system and
engine oil and remove the drivebelts (see
Chapter 1).
7Clearly label, then disconnect all vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
harness connectors and earth straps.
Masking tape and/or a touch up paint
applicator work well for marking items (see
illustration). Take instant photos or sketch
the locations of components and brackets.
8Remove the cooling fan(s) and radiator (see
Chapter 3).
9Disconnect the heater hoses.
10Release the residual fuel pressure in the
tank by removing the petrol cap, then detach
the fuel lines connecting the engine to the
chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open
fittings.
2B•4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6 A compression gauge with a threaded
fitting for the spark plug hole is preferred
over the type that requires hand pressure
to maintain the seal - be sure to block
open the throttle valve as far as possible
during the compression check!
6.7 Label both ends of each wire and hose
before disconnecting it
3261 Jaguar XJ6

11Disconnect the throttle linkage,
transmission linkage (and dipstick tube) and
speed control cable, if equipped, from the
engine (see Chapters 4 and 7).
12Refer to Part A of this Chapter and
remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
13Unbolt the power steering pump (see
Chapter 10). Tie the pump aside without
disconnecting the hoses. Refer to Part A for
removal of the hydraulic pump (if equipped)
from the timing chain cover.
14On air-conditioned models, unbolt the
compressor and set it aside. Do not
disconnect the refrigerant hoses. Note:Wire
the compressor out of the way with a coat
hanger, don’t let the compressor hang on the
hoses.
15Refer to Part A of this Chapter and
remove the drivebelts, water pump pulley and
crankshaft pulley.
16Attach a lifting sling to the engine.
Position a hoist and connect the sling to it.
Take up the slack until there is slight tension
on the hoist.
17With a trolley jack and piece of wood
supporting the bottom of the transmission
sump, refer to Chapter 8 and remove the
driveshaft and rear transmission mount.
Warning: Do not place any part
of your body under the
engine/transmission when it’s
supported only by a hoist or
other lifting device.
18With the hoist taking the weight of the
engine, unbolt the engine mounts (see Part A
of this Chapter).
19Recheck to be sure nothing is still
connecting the engine or transmission to the
vehicle. Disconnect and label anything still
remaining.
20Slowly lift the engine/transmission out of
the vehicle (see illustration). It may be
necessary to pry the mounts away from the
frame brackets.21Move the engine away from the vehicle
and carefully lower the hoist until the
engine/transmission can be set on the floor.
Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the
transmission and converter. Refer to Part A of
this Chapter for removal of the flywheel. With
the flywheel removed, remove the four large
bolts and the transmission adapter plate from
the engine (see illustration).
22Refer to Part A of this Chapter for removal
of the rear main seal retainer plate from the
back of the engine, then lift the engine to a
position where it can be attached to a sturdy
engine stand.
Refitting
23Check the engine/transmission mounts. If
they’re worn or damaged, renew them.
24Attach the hoist and remove the engine
from the stand. Refer to Part A of this Chapter
and renew the rear main seal and retainer
plate, then reattach the transmission adapter
plate and refer to Chapter 7 for mounting the
converter and transmission.
25Carefully lower the engine into the vehicle
with the hoist. An assistant is helpful to guide
the engine clear of accessories in the engine
compartment as the engine is lowered into
place.
26Refit the engine mount bolts and tighten
them securely. Raise the back of the
transmission with the trolley jack and reattach
the transmission mount, driveshaft and shift
linkage.
27Refit the remaining components and
fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
28Add coolant, oil, power steering and
transmission fluids as needed (see Chapter 1).
29Run the engine and check for proper
operation and leaks. Shut off the engine and
recheck the fluid levels.
7 Engine rebuilding
alternatives
The do-it-yourselfer is faced with a number
of options when performing an engine
overhaul. The decision to renew the engine
block, piston/connecting rod assemblies and
crankshaft depends on a number of factors,
with the number one consideration being the
condition of the engine block. Other
considerations are cost, access to machine
workshop facilities, parts availability, time
required to complete the project and the
extent of prior mechanical experience on the
part of the do-it-yourselfer.
Some of the rebuilding alternatives include:
Individual parts- If the inspection
procedures reveal that the engine block and
most engine components are in reusable
condition, purchasing individual parts may be
the most economical alternative. The engine
block, cylinder head, crankshaft, and
piston/connecting rod assemblies should all
be inspected carefully. Even if the engine
block shows little wear, the cylinder bores
should be surface honed.
Short block- A short block consists of an
engine block with a crankshaft and
piston/connecting rod assemblies already
installed. All new bearings are incorporated
and all clearances will be correct. The existing
camshafts, valve train components, cylinder
head and external parts can be bolted to the
short block with little or no machine workshop
work necessary.
Long block- A long block consists of a
short block plus an oil pump, sump, cylinder
head, valve cover, camshaft and valve train
components, timing sprockets and chain or
gears and timing cover. All components are
installed with new bearings, seals and gaskets
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•5
2B
3261 Jaguar XJ6 6.20 Lift the engine high enough to clear the vehicle, tilting it up
at the front to clear the front crossmember, then move it away
and lower the hoist
6.21 With the engine on the floor but still supported by the hoist,
remove the four large bolts (arrowed) and pull off the
transmission adapter plate