1997 JAGUAR XJ6 check engine light

5 Power hydraulic system
fluid level check
1
Caution: Use only Castrol or Jaguar
hydraulic system mineral oil (HSMO) in the
power hydraulic system (available at
Jaguar dealer service departments).
1The power hydraulic system controls the ride
levelling and the brake servo systems. The
fluid reservoir also supplies the power
steering system on some models. The level
of the fluid should be carefully maintained. Low
fluid levels can adversely affect the riding and
braking capabilities of your vehicle. The power
hydraulic system fluid reservoir is located on
the right inner wing of the engine compartment.
1988 and 1989 models
2The fluid level can easily be checked by
viewing the reservoir sight glass. A green
indicator in the sight glass indicates an OK
condition, while a red indicator in the sight glass
requires fluid to be added (see illustration).
3If additional fluid is required, pop open the
plastic tab located on top of the reservoir cap
(see illustration).
4Insert the mineral oil dispensing tube into
the reservoir filler hole. Push down and turn
until the dispensing tube is locked in place.
5Add fluid until the green indicator in the
sight glass appears, then release the
dispensing tube by pushing downward and
turning the opposite direction of refitting.
1990 to 1994 models
6The fluid level can be checked by removing
the cap and observing the level of fluid on the
dipstick.
7Wipe off the fluid with a clean rag, reinsert
it, then withdraw it and read the fluid level
(see illustration). The dipstick is marked so
the fluid can be checked either cold or hot.
The level should be at the HOT mark if the
fluid was hot to the touch. It should be at the
COLD mark if the fluid was cool to the touch.
At no time should the fluid level drop below
the add mark.8If additional fluid is required, pour the
specified type directly into the reservoir, using
a funnel to prevent spills.
6 Battery check
and general information
1
Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when working
with the battery. Hydrogen gas,
which is highly flammable, is
always present in the battery cells, so don’t
smoke, and keep naked flames and sparks
away from the battery. The electrolyte in
the battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid,
which will cause injury if splashed on your
skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes
and painted surfaces. When removing the
battery cables, always detach the negative
cable first and hook it up last!1A routine preventive maintenance program
for the battery in your vehicle is the only way
to ensure quick and reliable starts. But before
performing any battery maintenance, make
sure that you have the proper equipment
necessary to work safely around the battery
(see illustration).
2There are also several precautions that
should be taken whenever battery
maintenance is performed. Before servicing
the battery, always turn the engine and all
accessories off and disconnect the cable from
the negative terminal of the battery.
3The battery produces hydrogen gas, which
is both flammable and explosive. Never create
a spark, smoke or light a match around the
battery. Always charge the battery in a
ventilated area.
4Electrolyte contains poisonous and corrosive
sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get in your
eyes, on your skin or on your clothes, and
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•9
1
5.2 The power hydraulic system reservoir
is located on the right-hand inner wing -
to check the fluid level on 1988 and 1989
models simply look through the sight glass
and note the colour of the indicator5.3 To add fluid, remove the filler hole
dust cap (arrowed)5.7 On 1990 and later models remove the
cap and check the fluid level on the dipstick
6.1 Tools and materials required for
battery maintenance
1 Face shield/safety goggles - When
removing corrosion with a brush, the
acidic particles can fly up into your eyes
2 Baking soda - A solution of baking soda
and water can be used to neutralise
corrosion
3 Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on the
battery posts will help prevent corrosion
4 Battery post/cable cleaner - This wire
brush cleaning tool will remove all traces
of corrosion from the battery posts and
cable clamps
5 Treated felt washers - Placing one of
these on each post, directly under the
cable clamps, will help prevent corrosion
6 Puller - Sometimes the cable clamps are
difficult to pull off the posts, even after the
nut/bolt has been completely loosened.
This tool pulls the clamp straight up and
off the post without damage
7 Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is
another cleaning tool which is a slightly
different version of number 4 above, but
it does the same thing
8 Rubber gloves - Another safety item to
consider when servicing the battery;
remember that’s acid inside the battery!
3261 Jaguar XJ6

never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses
when working near the battery. Keep children
away from the battery.
5Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and cable clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a rubber
protector, make sure it isn’t torn or damaged.
It should completely cover the terminal. Look
for any corroded or loose connections, cracks
in the case or cover or loose hold-down
clamps. Also check the entire length of each
cable for cracks and frayed conductors.
6If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits (see illustration)is evident,
particularly around the terminals, the battery
should be removed for cleaning. Loosen the
cable clamp bolts, being careful to remove the
ground cable first, and slide them off the
terminals (see illustration). Then disconnect
the hold-down clamp bolt and nut, remove the
clamp and lift the battery from the engine
compartment.
7Clean the cable clamps thoroughly with a
battery brush or a terminal cleaner and a
solution of warm water and baking soda (see
illustration). Wash the terminals and the top
of the battery case with the same solution but
make sure that the solution doesn’t get into
the battery. When cleaning the cables,
terminals and battery top, wear safety
goggles and rubber gloves to prevent any
solution from coming in contact with your
eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too - evendiluted, sulphuric acid splashed onto clothes
will burn holes in them. If the terminals have
been extensively corroded, clean them up
with a terminal cleaner (see illustration).
Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain
water.
8Make sure the battery tray is in good
condition and the hold-down clamp bolt or
nut is tight. If the battery is removed from the
tray, make sure no parts remain in the bottom
of the tray when the battery is reinstalled.
When reinstalling the hold-down clamp bolt or
nut, do not over-tighten it.
9Information on removing and refitting the
battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information
on jump starting can be found at the front of
this manual.
Cleaning
10Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-
based primer, then painted.
Charging
Warning: When batteries are
being charged, hydrogen gas,
which is very explosive and
flammable, is produced. Do notsmoke or allow open flames near a
charging or a recently charged battery.
Wear eye protection when near the battery
during charging. Also, make sure the
charger is unplugged before connecting or
disconnecting the battery from the
charger.
12Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in the winter when the
battery must work harder to start the engine
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.
13It’s best to use a one or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher
amperage charger, but don’t use one rated
more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the
battery. Rapid boost charges that claim to
restore the power of the battery in one to two
hours are hardest on the battery and can
damage batteries not in good condition. This
type of charging should only be used in
emergency situations.
14The average time necessary to charge a
battery should be listed in the instructions that
come with the charger. As a general rule, a
trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16
hours.
7 Hose and fluid leak check
1
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -
what you are really looking for is any indication
of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a
1•10Every 7500 miles or 6 months
6.6a Battery terminal corrosion usually
appears as light, fluffy powder6.6b Removing a cable from the battery
post with a spanner - sometimes special
battery pliers are required for this if
corrosion has damaged the nut hex
6.7a Remove all the corrosion from the
cable clamps (the inside of the clamp is
tapered to match the taper on the post, so
don’t remove too much material)6.7b Regardless of the type of tool used to
clean the battery posts, a clean, shiny
surface should be the result
3261 Jaguar XJ6
A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white - or rust-coloured -
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

silencer and catalytic converter. If the
components can come in contact with the
body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust
system with new mounts.
5Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe.
The exhaust deposits here are an indication of
engine state-of-tune. If the pipe is black and
sooty or coated with white deposits, the
engine is in need of a tune-up, including a
thorough fuel system inspection.
11 Braking system - general
check and adjustment
2
Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
brake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Note: For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1In addition to the specified intervals, the
brakes should be inspected every time the
wheels are removed or whenever a defect is
suspected. Any of the following symptoms
could indicate a potential brake system
defect: The vehicle pulls to one side when the
brake pedal is depressed; the brakes make
squealing or dragging noises when applied;
brake pedal travel is excessive; the pedal
pulsates; brake fluid leaks, usually onto the
inside of the tyre or wheel.
2The disc brakes have built-in electrical wear
indicators which cause a warning lamp to
illuminate on the instrument panel when
they’re worn to the renewal point. When the
warning light comes on, replace the pads
immediately or expensive damage to the
discs can result.
3Loosen the wheel nuts.
4Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
5Remove the wheels.
Disc brakes
6There are two pads (an outer and an inner)
in each caliper. The pads are visible through
inspection holes in each caliper (see Haynes
Hint).
7Check the pad thickness by looking at each
end of the caliper and through the inspection
hole in the caliper body. If the lining material is
less than the thickness listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications, replace the pads. Note:Keep
in mind that the lining material is riveted or
bonded to a metal backing plate and the metal
portion is not included in this measurement.8If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the remaining pad material by the
above method, or if you are at all concerned
about the condition of the pads, remove the
caliper(s), then remove the pads from the
calipers for further inspection (see Chapter 9).
9Once the pads are removed from the
calipers, clean them with brake cleaner and
re-measure them with a ruler or a vernier
caliper.
10Measure the disc thickness with a
micrometer to make sure that it still has
service life remaining. If any disc is thinner
than the specified minimum thickness,
replace it (refer to Chapter 9). Even if the disc
has service life remaining, check its condition.
Look for scoring, gouging and burned spots. If
these conditions exist, remove the disc and
have it resurfaced (see Chapter 9).
11Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses for damage, wear,
deformation, cracks, corrosion, leakage,
bends and twists, particularly in the vicinity of
the rubber hoses at the calipers (see
illustration). Check the clamps for tightness
and the connections for leakage. Make sure
that all hoses and lines are clear of sharp
edges, moving parts and the exhaust system.
If any of the above conditions are noted,
repair, reroute or replace the lines and/or
fittings as necessary (see Chapter 9).
Hydraulic brake servo check
12Sit in the driver’s seat and perform the
following sequence of tests.
13Start the engine, run it for about a minute
and turn it off. Then firmly depress the brake
several times - the pedal travel should
decrease with each application.
14With the brake fully depressed, start the
engine - the pedal should move down a little
when the engine starts.
15Depress the brake, stop the engine and
hold the pedal in for about 30 seconds - the
pedal should neither sink nor rise.
16If your brakes do not operate as
described above when the preceding tests
are performed, the brake servo is either in
need of repair or has failed. Refer to Chapter 9
for the removal procedure.
Handbrake
17Slowly pull up on the handbrake and
count the number of clicks you hear until the
handle is up as far as it will go. The
adjustment should be within the specified
number of clicks listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. If you hear more or fewer
clicks, it’s time to adjust the handbrake (refer
to Chapter 9).
18An alternative method of checking the
handbrake is to park the vehicle on a steep hill
with the handbrake set and the transmission
in Neutral (be sure to stay in the vehicle during
this check!). If the handbrake cannot prevent
the vehicle from rolling, it is in need of
adjustment (see Chapter 9). Whenever a fault
is suspected, the brake discs should be
removed and the handbrake assemblies
themselves should be visually inspected.
12 Steering
and suspension check
2
Note: The steering linkage and suspension
components should be checked periodically.
Worn or damaged suspension and steering
linkage components can result in excessive
and abnormal tyre wear, poor ride quality and
vehicle handling and reduced fuel economy.
For detailed illustrations of the steering and
suspension components, refer to Chapter 10.
With the wheels on the ground
1Park the vehicle on level ground, turn the
engine off and set the handbrake. Check the
tyre pressures and check that the wheel nuts
are tightened to the specified torque.
2Push down at one corner of the vehicle,
then release it while noting the movement of
the body. It should stop moving and come to
rest in a level position with one or two
bounces. When bouncing the vehicle up and
down, listen for squeaks and noises from the
suspension components.
3If the vehicle continues to move up-and-
down or if it fails to return to its original
1•12Every 7500 miles or 6 months
11.11 Check along the brake hoses
and at each fitting (arrowed) for
deterioration and cracks
3261 Jaguar XJ6
You will find an inspection hole like this
in each caliper - placing a ruler across
the hole should enable you to determine
the thickness of remaining pad material
for both inner and outer pads

position, a worn or weak shock absorber is
probably the reason.
4Repeat the above check at each of the
three remaining corners of the vehicle.
Under the vehicle
5Raise the vehicle with a trolley jack and
support it securely on axle stands. See
“Jacking and towing”for proper jacking
points.
6Check the shock absorbers for evidence of
fluid leakage. Make sure that any fluid noted is
from the shocks and not from any other
source. Also check the rubber mounts at each
end for deterioration If the shock absorbers
fail any of the tests above replace the shocks
as a set.
7Check the tyres for irregular wear patterns
and proper inflation. See “Weekly checks”for
information regarding tyre wear.
8Inspect the universal joint between the
steering shaft and the steering gear housing.
Check the steering gear housing for grease
leakage. Make sure that the dust seals and
boots are not damaged and that the boot
clamps are not loose (see illustration). Check
the steering linkage for looseness or damage.
Look for loose bolts, broken or disconnected
parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all
suspension and steering components (see
illustration). While an assistant turns the
steering wheel from side to side, check the
steering components for free movement,
chafing and binding. If the steering
components do not seem to be reacting with
the movement of the steering wheel, try to
determine where the slack is located.
9Check the balljoints moving each lower arm
up and down with a crowbar to ensure that its
balljoint has no play. If any balljoint does have
play, replace it. See Chapter 10 for the front
balljoint renewal procedure. Check the tie-rod
ends for excessive play.
10Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end boots
for damage and leaking grease (see
illustration. Replace the balljoints and tie-rod
ends with new ones if they are damaged (see
Chapter 10).
13 Seat belt check
1
1Check the seat belts, buckles, latch plates
and guide loops for any obvious damage or
signs of wear.
2Make sure the seat belt reminder light
comes on when the key is turned on.
3The seat belts are designed to lock up
during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free
movement during normal driving. The
retractors should hold the belt against your
chest while driving and rewind the belt when
the buckle is unlatched.
4If any of the above checks reveal problems
with the seat-belt system, replace parts as
necessary.Note:Check with your local dealer
service department; the seat belt system
should be covered under the factory warranty.
14 General lubrication
2
1Obtain a good quality, multi-purpose
lithium-base grease. You’ll also need a grease
gun and other materials to properly lubricate
the chassis (see illustration). Occasionallyplugs will be installed rather than grease
fittings. If so, grease fittings will have to be
purchased and installed.
2Look under the car and see if grease fittings
or plugs are installed. If there are plugs,
remove them and buy grease fittings, which
will thread into the component. A dealer or
motor factors will be able to supply the
correct fittings. Straight, as well as angled,
fittings are available.
3For easier access under the car, raise it with
a jack and place axle stands under the
chassis. Make sure it’s safely supported by
the stands. If the wheels are to be removed at
this interval for tyre rotation or brake
inspection, loosen the wheel nuts slightly
while the car is still on the ground.
4Before beginning, force a little grease out of
the nozzle to remove any dirt from the end of
the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a rag.
5With the grease gun and plenty of clean
rags, crawl under the car and begin
lubricating all the front suspension parts that
are equipped with a grease fitting.
6Lubricate the rear driveshafts (see
illustration). Wipe each fitting clean and push
the nozzle firmly over it. Pump the gun until
grease is expelled from the U-joint cap seal.
7Wipe away any excess grease from the
components and the grease fitting. Repeat
the procedure for the remaining fittings.
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•13
1
14.1 Materials required for chassis
and body lubrication
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.8a Check the steering gear dust boots
for cracks and leaking steering fluid
12.8b Check the anti-roll bar bushings
(arrowed) for deterioration at the front and
the rear of the vehicle12.10 Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end
boots for tears - tears or damage in either
boot will allow contamination of the grease
which will lead to premature failure
1 Engine oil - Light engine oil in a can like
this can be used for door and bonnet
hinges
2 Graphite spray - Used to lubricate lock
cylinders
3 Grease - Grease, in a variety of types and
weights, is available for use in a grease
gun.
4 Grease gun - A common grease gun,
shown here with a detachable hose and
nozzle, is needed for chassis lubrication.
After use, clean it thoroughly

16 Spark plug renewal
2
Refer to Section 4, renewing the plugs
regardless of their apparent condition.
17 Air cleaner element renewal
1
1The air filter is located inside a housing at
the left side of the engine compartment. To
remove the air filter, release the four spring
clips that secure the two halves of the air
cleaner housing together, then lift the cover
up and remove the air filter element (see
illustration).
Caution: Never drive the car with the air
cleaner removed. Excessive engine wear
could result and backfiring could even
cause a fire under the bonnet.
2Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner
housing.
3Place the new filter into the air cleaner
housing, making sure it seats properly.
4Refitting the cover is the reverse of removal.
18 Fuel filter renewal
2
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas-typeappliance (such as a water heater or
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
Since petrol is carcinogenic, wear latex
gloves when there’s a possibility of being
exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. Mop up any spills immediately
and do not store fuel-soaked rags where
they could ignite. The fuel system is under
constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are
to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in
the system must be relieved first (see
Chapter 4 for more information). When you
perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses and have a
Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
1The canister type filter is mounted
underneath the car on the passenger’s side
frame rail just in front of the left rear tyre.
2Depressurise the fuel system (refer to
Chapter 4), then disconnect the cable from
the negative terminal of the battery.
3On 1988 to 1990 models, detach the banjo
bolt from the outlet side of the filter then
remove the union from the inlet side of the
filter. Unscrew the filter mounting bolt and
remove the filter (see illustration).
4On 1991 to 1994 models, the fuel filter has
quick-disconnect fittings that do not require 8Clean and lubricate the handbrake cable,
along with the cable guides and levers. This
can be done by smearing some of the chassis
grease onto the cable and its related parts
with your fingers.
9Open the bonnet and smear a little chassis
grease on the bonnet latch mechanism. Have
an assistant pull the bonnet release lever from
inside the car as you lubricate the cable at the
latch.
10Lubricate all the hinges (door, bonnet,
etc.) with engine oil to keep them in proper
working order.
11The key lock cylinders can be lubricated
with spray graphite or silicone lubricant, which
is available at motor factors.12Lubricate the door weather-stripping with
silicone spray. This will reduce chafing and
retard wear.
15 Road test
1
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.
Steering and suspension
3Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4Drive the car, and check that there are no
unusual vibrations or noises.
5Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6Check the performance of the engine and
transmission, listening for any unusual noises.7Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
8Check that the gear changing action of the
transmission is smooth and progressive and
that the drive is taken up smoothly from a
standing start.
Braking system
9Make sure that the car does not pull to one
side when braking, and that the wheels do not
lock prematurely when braking hard.
10Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
11Check that the handbrake operates
correctly without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the car stationary on a
slope.
12Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then
start the engine. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to
run for at least two minutes, and then switch it
off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it
should be possible to detect a hiss from the
servo as the pedal is depressed. After about
four or five depressions, no further hissing
should be heard, and the pedal should feel
considerably harder.
1•14Every 7500 miles or 6 months
17.1 Detach the clips and separate the
cover, then slide the filter element out of
the housing
3261 Jaguar XJ6
14.6 Grease fittings for the rear
driveshafts are located in the centre
on each U-joint
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km) or 12 months

20 Crankcase ventilation
system check
1
Refer to Chapter 6.
21 Drivebelt check and renewal
2
Check
1The drivebelts, or V-belts as they are
sometimes called, are located at the front of
the engine and play an important role in the
overall operation of the vehicle and its
components. Due to their function and
material make-up, the belts are prone to
failure after a period of time and should be
inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent
major engine damage.
2The number of belts used on a particular
vehicle depends on the accessories installed.
The main belt transmits power from the
crankshaft to the water pump, alternator and
the power steering pump. The second belt
transmits power from the crankshaft to the air
conditioning compressor.
3With the engine off, open the bonnet and
locate the drivebelts. With a flashlight, check
each belt for separation of the adhesive
rubber on both sides of the core, core
separation from the belt side, a severed core,
separation of the ribs from the adhesive
rubber, cracking or separation of the ribs, and
torn or worn ribs or cracks in the inner ridges
of the ribs (see illustrations). Also check for
fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a
shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt
should be inspected, which means you will
have to twist the belt to check the underside.
Use your fingers to feel the belt where you
can’t see it. If any of the above conditions are
evident, replace the belt (go to paragraph 7).
4Check the belt tension by pushing firmly on
the belt with your thumb at a distance halfway
between the pulleys and note how far the beltcan be pushed (deflected). Measure this
deflection with a ruler (see illustration). As a
rule of thumb, if the distance from pulley
centre-to- pulley centre is between 7 and
11 inches, the belt should deflect 1/4-inch. If
the belt travels between pulleys spaced 12 to
16 inches apart, the belt should deflect
1/2-inch for a V-belt or 1/4-inch for a
serpentine belt.
Adjustment
5There are two belt tensioning mechanisms.
The first one adjusts the air conditioning
compressor belt, which is accessible from
underneath the car. The second tensioning
mechanism is above the alternator - it adjusts
the tension on the main belt (the water pump,
alternator and power steering pump belt).
6The air conditioning compressor and the
alternator each have a belt tensioning
mechanism and pivot bolt(s) which must be
loosened slightly to enable you to move the
component (see illustrations).
7After the bolts have been loosened, belt
tension can be adjusted by either loosening or
tightening the locknuts on the belt tensioning
adjustment rod (see illustration 21.6a and b).
Move the component away from the engine totighten the belt or toward the engine to loosen
the belt.
8Measure the belt tension using the method
described in paragraph 4. Repeat this
procedure until the drivebelt is adjusted
properly.
Renewal
9To replace a belt, loosen the drivebelt
adjustment rod and pivot bolt as described
above, slip the belt off the crankshaft pulley
and remove it. If you are replacing the
alternator/power steering pump belt, you’ll
have to remove the air conditioning
1•16Every 15 000 miles or 12 months
21.3a Small cracks in the underside of a
serpentine belt are acceptable -
lengthwise cracks, or missing pieces, are
cause for replacement
21.3b Here are some of the more common
problems associated with V-belts (check
the belts very carefully to prevent an
untimely breakdown)
21.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a
straightedge and ruler
21.6a To adjust the alternator/power
steering drivebelt, loosen the outer locknut
(arrowed) and the alternator pivot bolt -
turn the inner locknut anti-clockwise to
loosen or clockwise to tighten the belt21.6b To adjust the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, loosen the outer
locknut (arrowed) and the compressor
pivot bolts - turn the inner locknut anti-
clockwise to loosen or clockwise to
tighten the belt
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
2A
Chapter 2 Part A
Engine in-car repair procedures
General
Cylinder numbers (front to rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-3-4-5-6
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5-3-6-2-4
Displacement:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3239 cc
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3590 cc
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3980 cc
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.0 mm (3.583 inches)
Stroke:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.0 mm (3.268 inches)
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.0 mm (3.622 inches)
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102.0 mm (4.016 inches)
Camshafts and lifters
Journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.9370 to 26.9494 mm (1.0605 to 1.0610 inches)
Bearing oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.037 to 0.063 mm (0.0014 to 0.0024 inch)
Runout limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0406 mm (0.0016 inch)
Lobe lift (maximum variation between lobes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0127 mm (0.005 inch)
Valve lifter
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.34 to 33.35 mm (1.3126 to 1.3130 inches)
Oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.050 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 inch)
Valve clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.36 mm (0.012 to 0.014 inch)
Oil pump
Outer rotor to body clearance, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch)
Outer rotor OD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.774 to 69.825 mm (2.7470 to 2.7490 inches)
Rotor thickness, inner and outer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.962 to 27.975 mm (1.1008 to 1.1013 inches)
Clearance over rotors, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch) Auxiliary shaft - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cylinder compression check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Driveplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Engine mounts - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2BExhaust manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intake manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Timing chains and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 8
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Valves - servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3
2A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

damage the crankshaft in the process (if the
crankshaft is damaged, the new seal will end
up leaking).
9The crankshaft seal rides on a spacer that
slips over the front of the crankshaft. Slip the
spacer off and clean the varnish off the seal
surface (see illustration).
10Clean the bore in the cover and coat the
outer edge of the new seal with engine oil or
multi-purpose grease. Apply moly-base
grease to the seal lip.
11Lubricate the spacer with clean engine oil
and refit it onto the crankshaft. Using a socket
with an outside diameter slightly smaller than
the outside diameter of the seal, carefully
drive the new seal into place with a hammer
(see illustration). Make sure it’s installed
squarely and driven in to the same depth as
the original. If a socket isn’t available, a short
section of large-diameter pipe will also work.
Note:The new seal comes with a plastic
installer guide. Do not remove this guide until
refitting is completed. The guide keeps the
seal lip properly oriented over the crankshaft.
12Refit the Woodruff key, then refit the
damper. Tighten the damper bolt to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Note:The damper bolt can be used to pull the
damper back onto the crankshaft, but make
sure the damper is perfectly aligned with the
Woodruff key.
13The rest of the assembly is the reverse of
the removal procedure.
14Run the engine and check for oil leaks at
the front seal.
8 Timing chains
and sprockets- removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Caution: If the timing chain broke during
engine operation, the valves may have
come in contact with the pistons, causingdamage. Check the valve clearance (see
Section 10) before removal of the cylinder
head - bent valves usually will have
excessive clearance, indicating damage
that will require machine workshop work to
repair.
Note 1:This procedure requires that the sump
be removed (see Section 12).In a professional
workshop, this would be performed as an in-
car procedure with specialised tools to
remove the front suspension. Given the
equipment available to the average home
mechanic, this alternate procedure requires
removal of the engine from the car.
Note 2:If your engine is a 4.0 litre, built after
serial number 9J160552, and you’re
experiencing an engine rattle on cold starts
that disappears after the engine is warmed up,
the problem could be a defective upper
tensioner. A newly designed replacement
upper tensioner is available from the dealer
and should solve the problem. It can be
installed easily without pulling the cylinder
head or front cover, or can be installed during
a chain removal procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Block the rear wheels and set the
handbrake.
3Refer to Part B of this Chapter for engine
removal procedures.
4Refer to Section 4 and remove the valve
cover.
5Refer to Section 3 and position the engine
at TDC for cylinder number 1, then mark and
remove the distributor (see Chapter 5).
6Refer to Section 11 and remove the cylinder
head. After cylinder head removal, the uppertiming chain will be loosely retained by the
two upper chain guides, which are retained by
refitting a large rubber band (see Section 10).
Caution: Do not rotate the crankshaft with
the upper timing chain disconnected and
the cylinder head and camshafts in place,
or damage could result from piston-to-
valve contact.
7Some models may be equipped with a
hydraulic pump used for the brake
servo/hydraulic self-levelling suspension
system. If equipped, it will be mounted to the
front cover. Models not equipped with this
option will have a flat block-off plate over the
hole. If equipped with the pump, refer to
Chapters 9 and 10 for procedures to reduce
the high pressure in the brake servo system
and to depressurise the self-levelling system.
Before removing the engine, unbolt the pump
from the front cover and set it aside without
disconnecting the hoses (see illustration).
8Refer to Section 7 and remove the
crankshaft pulley and damper. Refer to
Section 12 for removal of the sump.
9If equipped with the hydraulic pump,
remove the coupling disc and unbolt the drive
coupling from the intermediate shaft (see
illustrations).
2A•6 Engine in-car repair procedures
8.7 Unbolt the hydraulic pump (arrowed)
from the front cover, without
disconnecting the hoses
3261 Jaguar XJ6 7.9 Remove the spacer from the end of the crankshaft
and clean it thoroughly
7.11 Drive the new seal squarely into the front cover with a large
socket or section of pipe - do not remove the plastic refitting
guide (arrowed) until the seal is installed