1997 JAGUAR XJ6 brake pads

necessary to detach the brake line. If you’re
removing the caliper for overhaul, detach the
hose from the metal line at the frame bracket
(see Section 8), then disconnect the brake line
from the caliper with a flare-nut spanner to
protect the fitting (see illustration). Plug the
metal line to keep contaminants out of the
brake system and to prevent losing brake
fluid.
3Refer to illustration 3.5c and unbolt the
front or rear caliper.
Overhaul
4Before you remove the piston, place a
wood block between the piston and caliper to
prevent damage as it is removed.
5To remove the piston from the caliper,
apply compressed air to the brake fluid hose
connection on the caliper body (see
illustration). Use only enough pressure to
ease the piston out of its bore. Remove the
dust boot.
Warning: Be careful not to place
your fingers between the piston
and the caliper as the piston
may come out with some force.
Be sure to wear eye protection when using
compressed air.
6Inspect the mating surfaces of the piston
and caliper bore wall. If there is any scoring,
rust, pitting or bright areas, renew the
complete caliper unit with a new one.
7If these components are in good condition,
remove the piston seal from the caliper bore
using a wooden or plastic tool (see
illustration). Metal tools may damage the
cylinder bore.
8Remove the caliper guide pins and the
rubber dust boots from the caliper bracket.
9Wash all the components in brake system
cleaner.
10Using the correct rebuild kit for your
vehicle, reassemble the caliper as follows.11Submerge the new rubber seal in clean
brake fluid and refit it in the lower groove in
the caliper bore, making sure it isn’t twisted.
12Coat the piston with clean brake fluid and
stretch the new dust boot over the bottom of
the piston. Hold the piston over the caliper
bore and insert the rubber flange of the dust
boot into the upper groove in the bore. Start
with the side farthest from you and work your
way around toward the front until it is
completely seated. Push the piston into the
caliper bore until it is bottomed in the bore,
then seat the top of the dust boot in the
groove in the piston.
13Lubricate the sliding surfaces of the guide
pins with silicone-based grease (usually
supplied in the kit), then refit the new dust
boots and pins into the caliper bracket.
Refitting
14Refit the caliper by reversing the removal
procedure (see Section 3).
15If the brake hose was disconnected from
the caliper, bleed the brake system (see
Section 9).
5 Brake disc- inspection,
removal and refitting
2
Note:The following procedure applies to both
the front and rear brake discs.
Inspection
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel and refit three nuts to hold
the disc in place. If the rear brake disc is being
worked on, release the handbrake.
2Remove the brake caliper as outlined in
Section 4. It is not necessary to disconnect
the brake hose. After removing the caliper,
suspend it out of the way with a piece of wire.
3Visually inspect the disc surface for scoring
or damage. Light scratches and shallow
grooves are normal after use and may not
always be detrimental to brake operation, but
deep scoring - over 0.015 inch - requires disc
removal and refinishing by an automotive
machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of
the disc (see illustration). If pulsating has
9•4 Braking system
4.7 Remove the piston seal from the
caliper bore using a wooden or plastic tool
(metal tools may damage the
cylinder bore)5.3 The brake pads on this vehicle were
obviously neglected, as they wore down to
the rivets and cut deep grooves into the
disc - this disc must be replaced
3261 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Use a flare-nut spanner to protect the brake hose fitting when
unscrewing it from the caliper
4.5 With the caliper padded to catch the piston, use compressed
air to force the piston out of its bore - make sure your fingers are
not between the piston and the caliper

Refitting
8Place the disc on the hub and refit the disc
retaining screw. Tighten the screw securely.
9Refit the caliper mounting bracket, using a
new safety wire on the mounting bolts.
10Refit the brake pads and caliper (see
Section 3). Tighten all fasteners to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
11Refit the wheel and wheel nuts, then lower
the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel
nuts to the specified torque (see Chapter 1
Specifications). Depress the brake pedal a
few times to bring the brake pads into contact
with the disc.
12Adjust the handbrake shoes, if necessary.
13Check the operation of the brakes
carefully, if possible before driving the vehicle
on public roads.
6 Master cylinder- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Note:Although master cylinder parts and
rebuild kits are available for most models, we
recommend replacing the master cylinder with
a new or remanufactured unit, if possible.
Removal
1The master cylinder is connected to the
brake servo, which is attached to the pedal
box, in front of the bulkhead on the driver’s
side of the engine compartment.
2Remove as much fluid as you can from the
reservoir with a syringe.
3Place rags under the line fittings and
prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the
ends of the lines once they are disconnected.
Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint.
Cover all body parts and be careful not to
spill fluid during this procedure.
4Disconnect the electrical connector for the
low fluid level warning light (see illustration).
5Loosen the brake line fittings at the mastercylinder (see illustration). Use a flare-nut
spanner to prevent rounding off the nuts. Pull
the brake lines away from the master cylinder
slightly and plug the ends to prevent
contamination.
6Remove the nuts attaching the master
cylinder to the servo (see illustration). Pull
the master cylinder off the studs and lift it out
of the engine compartment. Again, be careful
not to spill fluid as this is done.
Overhaul
7Follow the accompanying photo sequence,
beginning with illustration 6.7a. Stay in order,don’t skip steps, read each caption and study
the photo carefully.
8Once you have dismantled the master
cylinder, clean everything thoroughly, blow
the parts dry with compressed air and
carefully inspect the secondary piston and the
bore of the master cylinder with a bright light.
If the secondary piston or the master cylinder
bore is damaged or worn, renew the master
cylinder with a new or rebuilt unit.
Bench bleeding procedure
9Before refitting a new or rebuilt master
cylinder it should be bench bled. Because it
9•6 Braking system
6.7a Knock out the roll pin that secures
the reservoir to the master cylinder
6.7b Carefully pry off the reservoir by
inserting a screwdriver between the
reservoir and each grommet; this takes
firm pressure, so don’t slip and damage
the reservoir or the master cylinder
6.7c Remove the grommets, noting the
position of each one
6.6 Remove the two master cylinder
mounting nuts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 6.4 Trace the electrical lead back from the reservoir cap and
disconnect the low fluid level sensor
6.5 Loosen the hydraulic brake line fittings with a flare-nut
spanner to protect the corners of the nuts

11If you installed another pair of self-
levelling shocks, or removed and installed the
same pair of self-levelling shocks, be sure to
top up the power hydraulic system reservoir
(see Chapter 1).
11 Hub carrier (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Remove the ABS sensor, the ABS harness
clip and cut off the cable tie which secures the
ABS harness to the carrier (see illustration).
5Remove the nut and bolt which attach the
carrier to the control arm (see illustration).
6Remove the hub carrier assembly.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12 Hub and bearing (rear)-
renewal
4
If you want to renew the rear hub and
bearing assembly (or the ABS trigger wheel),
remove the hub carrier (see Section 11), then
take the carrier to a Jaguar dealer service
department or to an automotive machine
workshop. These parts require a hydraulic
press and special fixtures to dismantle and
reassemble.
13 Control arm (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Disconnect the lower end of the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly from the
control arm (see Section 10).
5Remove the hub carrier (see Section 11).
6Remove the control arm pivot bolt nut (see
illustration).
7Support the differential/crossmember
assembly with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the
differential to protect the differential.
Disconnect the lower end of the differential
tie-bar (see illustration)and carefully lower
the differential crossmember just enough toallow the control arm pivot bolt to be pulled
out to the rear without hitting the boot well.
8Remove the control arm.
9Inspect the control arm pivot bolt bushings.
If they’re cracked, dried out or torn, take the
arm to an automotive machine workshop and
have them replaced.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all suspension fasteners to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten all
brake fasteners to the torque listed in the
Chapter 9 Specifications.
14 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If your car is equipped
with an airbag, do not attempt
this procedure. Have it done by a
dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
13.6 Hold the pivot bolt and unscrew
the nut13.7 Remove this nut (arrowed) and bolt
from the lower end of each tie-bar (right
above the control arm pivot)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.4 Before detaching the hub carrier from the rear control arm,
remove the ABS sensor (left arrow), detach the ABS harness clip
(right arrow) and cut the cable tie securing the harness
11.5 To detach the hub carrier from the rear control arm, remove
the carrier-to-control arm nut and bolt

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•4Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should be clean.
Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg, badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy
materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, light bulbs, drivebelts, greases, brake
pads, touch-up paint, etc). Components of
this nature sold by a reputable shop are
usually of the same standard as those used
by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found close to home.
Some accessory shops have parts counters
where components needed for almost any
repair job can be purchased or ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg, brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves). They may also handle work such as
cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding,
etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk of financial loss, and
also of an accident causing injury or death.
Second-hand parts or assemblies obtained
from a car breaker can be a good buy in some
circumstances, but this sort of purchase is
best made by the experienced DIY mechanic.
Vehicle identification
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
identification numbers being essential to
correct identification of the part concerned.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture and registration,
chassis and engine numbers as appropriate.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate is attached to the base of the driver’s
door pillar left-hand wing valance and is
visible once the bonnet has been opened. The
vehicle identification (chassis) number is also
stamped onto a plate located inside the
windscreen and may also be stamped onto
the right-hand inner wing panel in the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
The trim code and paint codeare also
stamped onto the VIN plate.
The engine numberis stamped onto the
right-hand side of the cylinder block, next to
the distributor (see illustration).
The automatic transmission numberis
stamped onto a metal label attached to the
left-hand side of the transmission housing,
just above the sump (see illustration).The VIN is stamped on the right inner wing
panel of the engine compartment
The engine identification number is
stamped on the right side of the engine
block just behind the distributorThe transmission identification number is
located on the left side of the transmission
housing just above the sump
The VIN is also present on the left side of
the dashboard

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Fault findingREF•15
4 Automatic transmission
Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this
component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should
be taken to a dealer or transmission workshop.
Fluid leakage
m mAutomatic transmission fluid is a deep red colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
by air flow to the transmission.
m mTo pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the
transmission housing with degreasing agents and/or steam
cleaning. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not
blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine
where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are:
a) Sump pan (Chapters 1 and 7)
b) Dipstick/filler tube (see below)
c) Transmission fluid cooler lines (Chapter 7)
d) Speedometer sensor (Chapter 7)
m mMake sure the dipstick is a tight fit inside the filler tube. If the seal
at the top of the dipstick is worn or damaged, replace the seal or
the dipstick. If fluid continues to leak from the top of the dipstick
tube, inspect the breather, which is a plastic cap secured by a clip
to the top of the extension housing. This breather can be plugged
by the noise-deadening foam installed in the transmission tunnel,
causing transmission fluid to leak from the top of the dipstick
tube.
Transmission fluid brown or has a burned smell
m mTransmission fluid burned (Chapter 1).
Shift cable problems
m
mChapter 7 deals with adjusting the shift cable. Common problems
which may be attributed to a poorly adjusted shift cable are:
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on shift lever pointing to a gear other than the one
actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park.
m mRefer to Chapter 7 for the shift cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift
with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor
m mKickdown cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
Engine will start in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m mNeutral start/reversing light switch malfunctioning (Chapter 7).
m mShift cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy,
or has no drive in forward or reverse gears
m mThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer service department
or transmission repair workshop, check the level and condition of
the fluid as described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as
necessary or change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists,
have a professional diagnose the probable cause.
5 Brakes
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that:
a) The tyres are in good condition and properly inflated (Chapter 1).
b) The front end alignment is correct (Chapter 10).
c) The vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
m mIncorrect tyre pressures (Chapter 1).
m mFront end out of line (have the front end aligned).
m mUnmatched tyres on same axle.
m mRestricted brake lines or hoses (Chapter 9).
m mMalfunctioning caliper assembly (Chapter 9).
m mLoose suspension parts (Chapter 10).
m mLoose calipers (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).
Noise (high-pitched squeal
when the brakes are applied)
m mFront and/or rear disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from
the wear sensor rubbing against the disc. Replace pads with new
ones immediately (Chapter 9).
Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates)
m mExcessive lateral disc runout (Chapter 9).
m mParallelism not within specifications (Chapter 9).
m mUneven pad wear caused by caliper not sliding due to improper
clearance or dirt (Chapter 9).
m mDefective disc (Chapter 9).
Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m
mMalfunctioning power brake servo (Chapter 9).
m mPartial system failure (Chapter 9).
m mExcessively worn pads (Chapter 9).
m mPiston in caliper stuck or sluggish (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).
m mNew pads installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the
new material to seat against the disc.
m mAccumulator in power hydraulic system defective (see a Jaguar
dealer).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m mPartial brake system failure (Chapter 9).
m mInsufficient fluid in master cylinder (Chapters 1 and 9).
m mAir trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9).
Dragging brakes
m
mMaster cylinder pistons not returning correctly (Chapter 9).
m mRestricted brakes lines or hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).
m mIncorrect handbrake adjustment (Chapter 9).
Grabbing or uneven braking action
m
mMalfunction of power brake servo unit (Chapter 9).
m mBinding brake pedal mechanism (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•18Glossary of technical terms
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system)A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleanerA metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter elementThe actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
Allen keyA hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clipA long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
AlternatorA component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Ampere (amp)A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealerA substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
AntifreezeA substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compoundA coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
AsbestosA natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
AxleA shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
AxleshaftA single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
BBall bearingAn anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
BearingThe curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearingThe bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nippleA valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Brake bleedingProcedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake discThe component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.Brake drumThe component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake liningsThe friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake padsThe replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoeThe crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systemsFor more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker barA long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
BulkheadThe insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
CCaliperThe non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Canister
Brake bleeding
Bearing
Air filter

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Glossary of technical termsREF•19
Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.
Crocodile clipSee Alligator clipDDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
F
Fan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.
Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Feeler blade

3261 Jaguar XJ6
NNeutral start switch -7•5
Notes for UK readers -0•4, REF•3
Number plate light - 12•12
OObtaining diagnostic code output -6•3
Oil cooler -3•6
Oil filter -1•6
Oil gauge - 12•7
Oil pump -2A•15
Oil seals -2A•5, 2A•17, 2B•17, 7•7, 8•4, 8•5, REF•5
Oil,differential -1•2, 1•11, 1•20
Oil,engine -0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•6
On Board Diagnosis (OBD) system -6•2
Open circuit check - 12•2
Output shaft -7•7
Oxygen sensor -6•4
PPads (brake) -9•1, 9•2
Painting - 11•2
Parking lights - 12•11
Piston rings -2B•15
Pistons -2B•9, 2B•12, 2B•17
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power hydraulic system -0•16
fluid - 1•9
Power steering - 10•10, 10•11
fluid - 0•13, 0•16
Propshaft -1•18, 8•1, 8•2, 8•3
Punctures- 0•8
RRadiator -3•4
grille - 11•5
Radio - 12•7, REF•1
Rear lights - 12•12
Receiver/drier -3•12
Regulator (window) - 11•10
Relays - 12•3
Repair procedures - REF•5
Reversing lights -7•5, 12•12
Road test -1•14
Roadside repairs-0•6et seq
Routine maintenance and servicing-1•1et seq
Rust holes - 11•2
SSafety first -0•5
Scalding -0•5
Scratches - 11•2Screw threads and fastenings - REF•5
Seat belts -1•13, REF•9
Seats - 11•14, REF•9
Self-levelling rear suspension system - 10•3
Servo -1•12, 9•1, 9•9
Shift cable -7•4
Shock absorber - 10•4, 10•6, REF•9, REF•10
Shoes (brake) -1•20, 9•11
Short circuit check - 12•1
Side marker lights - 12•11
Spare parts - REF•4
Spark plugs -1•7, 1•14
Speakers - 12•7
Speed sensor -6•7
Spoiler - 11•5
Springs - 10•5, 10•6, REF•10
Starter motor -5•7
Steering - See Suspension and steering systems
Steering wheel and column - 11•13, 12•5, REF•8
Sump -2A•14
Sunroof - 12•14
Supplementary air valve -4•13
Suspension and steering systems- 1•12, 10•1et seq, REF•9, REF•10
fault finding - REF•16, REF•17
Switches -4•1, 7•5, 9•13, 12•5, 12•6, 12•12
TTail lights - 12•12
Temperature gauge - 12•7
Temperature sender unit -3•7
Thermostat -3•2
Throttle body -4•10
Throttle potentiometer -6•5
Tie-rod ends - 10•9
Timing chains -2A•6
Tools - REF•5, REF•6, REF•7
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston -2A•2
Torque converter -7•7
Towing -0•6
Trim panels - 11•7, 11•13
Tyres - 0•14, 10•11, REF•11
UUK readers information -0•4, REF•3
Universal joint -8•1, 8•2, 8•5
Upholstery - 11•1
VVacuum gauge checks -2B•3
Valve cover -2A•3
Valve lifters -2A•9
Valves -2B•8
Vehicle identification - REF•4, REF•9
Vehicle support - REF•1
Vinyl trim - 11•1
Voltage checks - 12•1
REF•24Index