1997 JAGUAR XJ6 height

12Remove the four bolts in each camshaft
inner sprocket (see illustration). The bolts are
secured by sheetmetal “washer” plates. Bend
down the locking tabs with a hammer and
screwdriver tip to remove the bolts.
Caution: Stuff rags below the sprockets
while removing the bolts to prevent a bolt
from falling down into the front cover.
13Remove the two bolts retaining the upper
chain guide to the cylinder head (see
illustration).
14Pull the inner sprockets from each
camshaft (see illustration). Each camshaft
sprocket is comprised of an inner and outer,
each with a set of fine splines that lock them
together. The outer sprockets, with the teeth,
can rotate on the camshafts until the inner
sprocket bolts are tightened.
15Pull the outer sprockets from the
camshafts and allow the chain slacken.
16At this point the camshafts can be
carefully lifted straight up and off the cylinder
head. Take care not to nick any of the lobes or
journals during removal.
17Use a magnet to remove the lifters,
keeping them in order in a divided, numbered
box (see illustration). They must be returned
to their original location if reusing the original
camshafts!
18Removing the lifters exposes the
adjusting shims, sitting in a pocket in eachvalve spring retainer (see illustration). Keep
the shims with their matching lifters. Measure
the thickness of each shim with a micrometer
and record the measurements.
Inspection
19After the camshaft has been removed
from the engine, cleaned with solvent and
dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven
wear, pitting and evidence of seizure. If the
journals are damaged, the bearing surfaces in
the cylinder head and caps may be damaged
as well, requiring renewal of the cylinder head.
20Measure the bearing journals with a
micrometer to determine if they are excessivelyworn or out-of-round (see illustration).
Compare the measurements to Specifications.
21Check the camshaft lobes for heat
discolouration, score marks, chipped areas,
pitting and uneven wear. Measure the lobe
heights with a micrometer and record the
measurements (see illustrations). If there is
variance of more than 0.005-inch, the
camshaft and lifters must be renewed. If the
lobes are in good condition, the camshaft can
be reused.
22Inspect the top, bottom and side surfaces
of the lifters for wear, grooving or scoring. If
the lifters are damaged, the camshaft and its
lifters must be renewed as a set.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11
2A
10.13 Remove the two bolts and the upper
timing chain guide (arrowed)10.14 Pull the inner sprocket from the
outer sprocket of each camshaft
10.17 A magnet can be used to remove
the lifters (arrowed)10.18 The valve adjustment shims
(arrowed) fit into a pocket in the valve
spring retainer - use a magnet to remove
the shims and keep them with their
respective lifters10.20 Measure the bearing journals with a
micrometer to check diameter - measure
at several places around the journal to
check for taper or out-of-round
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.12 Bend back the locking tabs
(arrowed) and remove the camshaft
sprocket bolts
10.21a Measure the camshaft lobe at its
greatest dimension . . .10.21b . . . and subtract the camshaft lobe
diameter at its smallest dimension to
obtain the lobe lift

done during the engine overhaul. Note:If the
engine was severely overheated, the cylinder
head is probably warped (see paragraph 12).
Cleaning
2Scrape all traces of old gasket material and
sealing compound off the cylinder head
gasket, intake manifold and exhaust manifold
sealing surfaces. Be very careful not to gouge
the cylinder head. Special gasket-removal
solvents that soften gaskets and make
removal much easier are available at car
accessory outlets.
3Remove all built up scale from the coolant
passages.
4Run a stiff wire brush through the various
holes to remove deposits that may have
formed in them. If there are heavy deposits in
the water passages, the bare head should be
professionally cleaned at a machine
workshop.
5Run an appropriate-size tap into each of the
threaded holes to remove corrosion and
any thread sealant that may be present. If
compressed air is available, use it to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
6Clean the exhaust and intake manifold stud
threads with a wire brush.
7Clean the cylinder head with solvent and dry
it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed the
drying process and ensure that all holes and
recessed areas are clean. Note:Decarbonising
chemicals are available and may prove very
useful when cleaning cylinder heads and valve
train components. They are very caustic and
should be used with caution. Be sure to follow
the instructions on the container.
8Clean the lifters with solvent and dry themthoroughly. Compressed air will speed the
drying process and can be used to clean out
the oil passages. Don’t mix them up during
cleaning - keep them in a box with numbered
compartments.
9Clean all the valve springs, spring seats,
keepers and retainers with solvent and dry
them thoroughly. Work on the components
from one valve at a time to avoid mixing up
the parts.
10Scrape off any heavy deposits that may
have formed on the valves, then use a
motorised wire brush to remove deposits from
the valve heads and stems. Again, make sure
that the valves don’t get mixed up.
Inspection
Note:Be sure to perform all of the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
machine workshop work is required. Make a
list of the items that need attention. The
inspection procedures for the lifters and
camshafts, can be found in Part A.
Cylinder head
11Inspect the cylinder head very carefully for
cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other
damage. If cracks are found, check with an
automotive machine workshop concerning
repair. If repair isn’t possible, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
12A common problem on aluminium engines
is erosion of the cylinder head or engine block
coolant passages due to improper sealing.
Using a new cylinder head gasket held
against the cylinder head, trace the bolt holes
and coolant passage outlines in pencil on the
cylinder head. Use the gasket to trace the
same on the top of the engine block (see
illustration). If the top of the engine block has
eroded outsideof the pattern around thewater passages or cylinder head bolt holes,
the engine block must be renewed; the
manufacturer doesn’t recommend resurfacing
it. If the cylinder head has eroded outside of
the water passage holes but the erosion is
away fromthe combustion chamber, the
eroded area can be built up with metal-
impregnated epoxy and machined flat again.
13Using a straightedge and feeler gauge,
check the cylinder head gasket mating
surface (on the engine block and cylinder
head) for warpage (see illustration). If the
warpage exceeds the limit found in this
Chapter’s Specifications, it can be resurfaced
at an automotive machine workshop, but no
more then 0.010-inch of material should be
removed. If the cylinder head had been
overheated, take it to the machinist for
inspection before proceeding further. It’s
possible that the overheating could have
annealed (softened) the aluminium of the
cylinder head, making it unsuitable for
machine work. In this case, a new cylinder
head is required.
Note 1:To check if a cylinder head has been
machined previously, measure the height
between the cylinder head gasket surface and
the valve cover mounting surface with a large
micrometer or vernier caliper and compare
with Specifications.
Note 2:Jaguar aluminium cylinder heads
require precision machine work. It is best to
find a machine workshop that has
considerable experience in servicing Jaguar
cylinder heads.
14Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they’re pitted,
cracked or burned, the cylinder head will
require valve service that’s beyond the scope
of the home mechanic.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•7
2B
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.12 Place the new head gasket on the engine block, and trace
around the water passages and bolt holes - make sure there is no
erosion of the aluminium beyond these lines
10.13 Check the cylinder head and engine block gasket surfaces
for warpage by trying to slip a feeler gauge under a precision
straightedge (see the Specifications for the maximum warpage
allowed and use a feeler gauge of that thickness) - check both the
cylinder head and engine block (shown)

15Check the valve stem-to-guide clearance
with a small hole gauge and micrometer, or a
small dial bore gauge (see illustration). Also,
check the valve stem deflection with a dial
indicator attached securely to the cylinder
head. The valve must be in the guide and
approximately 1/16-inch off the seat. The total
valve stem movement indicated by the gauge
needle must be noted, then divided by two to
obtain the actual clearance value. If it exceeds
the stem-to-guide clearance limit found in this
Chapter’s Specifications, the valve guides
should be renewed. After this is done, if
there’s still some doubt regarding the
condition of the valve guides they should be
checked by an automotive machine workshop
(the cost should be minimal).
Valves
16Carefully inspect each valve face for
uneven wear, deformation, cracks, pits and
burned areas. Check the valve stem for
scuffing and galling and the neck for cracks.
Rotate the valve and check for any obvious
indication that it’s bent. Look for pits and
excessive wear on the end of the stem. The
presence of any of these conditions indicates
the need for valve service by an automotive
machine workshop.
17Measure the margin width on each valve
(see illustration). Any valve with a margin
narrower than 1/32-inch will have to be
replaced with a new valve.
Valve components
18Check each valve spring for wear (on the
ends) and pits. Measure the free length and
compare it to this Chapter’s Specifications
(see illustration). Any springs that are shorter
than specified have sagged and should not be
re-used. The tension of all springs should be
pressure checked with a special fixture before
deciding that they’re suitable for use in a
rebuilt engine (take the springs to an
automotive machine workshop for this check).
Note:If any valve springs are found broken on
1988 or 1989 engines, all springs should be
replaced with the improved springs used in
1990 (after VIN 9EPCLA120245) and later
engines. They are identified with a white
stripe. If your engine has springs with white-
stripes, they have already been replaced, and
only broken ones need be replaced.
19Stand each spring on a flat surface and
check it for squareness (see illustration). If
any of the springs are distorted or sagged,
renew all of the springs.
20Check the spring retainers and keepers
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation.
21If the inspection process indicates that the
valve components are in generally poor
condition and worn beyond the limits specified,
which is usually the case in an engine that’s
being overhauled, reassemble the valves in the
cylinder head and refer to Section 11 for valve
servicing recommendations.
11 Valves- servicing
5
1Because of the complex nature of the job
and the special tools and equipment needed,
servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the
valve guides, commonly known as a valve job,
should be done by a professional.
2The home mechanic can remove and
dismantle the cylinder head(s), do the initial
cleaning and inspection, then reassemble and
deliver them to a dealer service department or
an automotive machine workshop for the
actual service work. Doing the inspection will
enable you to see what condition the cylinder
head(s) and valvetrain components are in and
will ensure that you know what work and new
parts are required when dealing with an
automotive machine workshop.
3The dealer service department, or
automotive machine workshop, will remove
the valves and springs, will recondition or
renew the valves and valve seats, recondition
the valve guides, check and renew the valve
springs, spring retainers and keepers (as
necessary), replace the valve seals with new
ones, reassemble the valve components and
make sure the installed spring height is
correct. The cylinder head gasket surface will
also be resurfaced if it’s warped.
4After the valve job has been performed by a
professional, the cylinder head(s) will be in like
new condition. When the cylinder heads are
returned, be sure to clean them again before
refitting on the engine to remove any metal
particles and abrasive grit that may still be
present from the valve service or cylinder
head resurfacing operations. Use compressed
air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and
passages.
12 Cylinder head- reassembly
2
1Regardless of whether or not the cylinder
head was sent to an automotive machine
workshop for valve servicing, make sure it’s
clean before beginning reassembly. Renew
the cylinder head rear plate gasket any time
that the engine is overhauled or the cylinder
head is reconditioned (see Part A of this
Chapter for renewal procedure).
2If the cylinder head was sent out for valve
servicing, the valves and related components
will already be in place. Begin the reassembly
procedure with paragraph 8.
3Refit new seals on each of the valve guides.
Gently push each valve seal into place until
it’s seated on the guide.
Caution: Don’t hammer on the valve seals
once they’re seated or you may damage
them. Don’t twist or cock the seals during
refitting or they won’t seat properly on the
valve stems.
2B•8 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
10.15 Use a small dial bore gauge to
determine the inside diameter of the valve
guides - subtract the valve stem diameter
to determine the stem-to-guide clearance10.17 The margin width on each valve
must be as specified (if no margin exists,
the valve cannot be re-used)
10.18 Measure the free length of each
valve spring with a dial or vernier caliper10.19 Check each valve spring for
squareness
3261 Jaguar XJ6

6Be sure to buy new pads with wear
sensors. Pattern pads may not have wear
sensors; refitting pads without wear sensors
will cause the dash warning light to come on.
7To refit the new pads, reverse the removal
procedure. When refitting the caliper, be sure
to tighten the mounting bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8After the job is completed, depress the
brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into
contact with the discs. The pedal should be at
normal height above the floorpan and firm.
Check the brake fluid level and add enough to
top it up (see Chapter 1). Inspect carefully for
leaks and check the operation of the brakes
before placing the vehicle into normal service.
9Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque.
4 Disc brake caliper- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Warning: Dust created by the
brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
brake system cleaner only!
Note 1:The following procedure applies to
both front and rear calipers.
Note 2:If an overhaul is indicated, explore all
options before beginning the job. New andfactory rebuilt calipers are available on an
exchange basis, which makes this job quite
easy. If you decide to rebuild the calipers,
make sure a rebuild kit is available before
proceeding. Always rebuild the calipers in
pairs - never rebuild just one of them.
Removal
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front or
rear of the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands. Remove the wheel.
2If you’re just removing the caliper for
access to other components, it isn’t
Braking system 9•3
9
3.5f Remove the outer brake pad3.5g Remove the inner brake pad
3.5h Pull out the wear sensor, trace the
sensor lead back to its plug, detach the
lead from the suspension, and discard it
3.5i Remove the caliper guide pins and
boots (lower pin and boot shown) . . .
3.5j . . . clean them off, inspect the pin and
boot for damage, renew as necessary,
then lubricate the pins with brake grease
and refit them in the caliper bracket
3.5k Apply anti-squeal compound to the
new brake pads
3261 Jaguar XJ6
3.5l Insert the new wear sensor into the
inner pad as shown . . .
3.5n Refit the outer pad
3.5m . . . then refit the inner pad onto the
caliper bracket
3.5o Refit the caliper, then tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque

1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, replaced with new ones of the
same part number or of original equipment
quality and design. Torque wrench settings
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Instead, renew any
bent or damaged part.
The front suspension (see illustrations)
consists of unequal-length upper and lower
control arms, shock absorbers and coil
springs. The upper ends of the shocks are
attached to the body; the lower ends
are attached to the lower control arms. The
upper ends of the coil springs are seated
against the suspension crossmember; the
lower ends are seated against removable
plates which are bolted to the lower control
arms. The steering knuckles are attached to
balljoints in the upper and lower control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the suspension
crossmember with a pair of bushing brackets
and to the lower control arms via a connecting
link at each end.The independent rear suspension (see
illustration)uses control arms and integral
shock absorber/coil spring units. The upper
ends of the shocks are attached to the body;
the lower ends are connected to the control
arms.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint on the lower end of the steering shaft, a
rack-and-pinion power steering gear, a power
steering pump and a pair of tie-rods which
connects the steering gear to the steering
knuckles (see illustration).
2 Self-levelling rear
suspension system
1988 to 1992 models were equipped with a
system that provided hydraulic power for the
rear suspension and for the power brakes. As
the vehicle is loaded or unloaded, the rear
suspension is automatically adjusted to
maintain a constant ride height.
The system was discontinued on 1993 and
later models, which are equipped with
conventional shock absorber/coil spring units.
A kit is available from your Jaguar dealer
should you decide to retrofit the later,
conventional shocks to a pre-1993 vehicle.
Complete instructions for refitting the kit are
included in Section 10.
3 Anti-roll bar (front)-
removal and refitting
2
1Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands.
2Remove the bolts from the anti-roll bar
brackets that attach the anti-roll bar to the
suspension crossmember (see illustration).
3Remove the nuts that attach the anti-roll
bar to the links (see illustration). If you’re
replacing the links themselves, or removing
the control arm, remove the nuts attaching the
links to the lower control arms.
Suspension and steering systems 10•3
10
1.3 Rear suspension
1 Hub carrier 2 Control arms 3 Crossmember mounting brackets 4 Crossmember
3.2 To detach the anti-roll bar from the
suspension crossmember, remove these
two bolts (arrowed) from each bushing
bracket
3261 Jaguar XJ6

12Remove the four balljoint retaining bolts
(see illustration).
13If the dust boot is damaged, pry it out
(see illustration).
14Remove the balljoint.
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the balljoint bolts and the ball stud nut to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
16Remove the jack from under the control
arm, refit the front wheel. Lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts to the torque listed
in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
6 Steering knuckle-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and place it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the front brake caliper and
mounting bracket (see Chapter 9). Do not
disconnect the brake hose. Hang the caliper
out of the way with a piece of wire.
3Remove the brake disc (see Chapter 9).
4Remove the ABS sensor (see illustration).
5Remove the brake shield (see illustration).
6Disconnect the tie-rod end from the
steering knuckle (see Section 15).
7Disconnect the upper and lower balljoints
from the steering knuckle (see Section 5).
8Remove the steering knuckle.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the balljoint nuts and the tie-rod end nuts to the
specified torque. Tighten the brake fasteners to
the torque values listed in the Chapter 9
Specifications.
7 Upper control arm-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Support the lower control arm with a trolley
jack (see illustration 4.2).
3Disconnect the upper balljoint from the
steering knuckle (see Section 5).4If you’re removing the right upper control
arm on a vehicle equipped with the power
hydraulic system, remove the three Torx
screws which attach the accumulator (see
illustration)and push the assembly aside just
far enough to clear the pivot bolt.
5Remove the upper control arm pivot bolt
and nut (see illustration). When removing the
nut, note the number of washers used and the
order in which they’re installed. Put these
parts in a plastic bag.
6Remove the upper control arm. Inspect the
bushings at either end of the arm and renew
them if they’re damaged or worn.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit the washers in the same order in which
they were removed. Raise the suspensionwith the trolley jack to simulate normal ride
height, then tighten the upper control arm
pivot bolt and nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
8 Coil spring (front)-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The coil springs cannot
be removed without a special
spring compressor tool (Jaguar
tool JD115). Do not try to remove
a coil spring without this special tool. If you
do, you could be seriously injured.
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
10
5.11 Strike the steering knuckle in this
area to pop the lower ball stud loose from
the steering knuckle5.12 To detach the lower balljoint from the
lower control arm, remove these four bolts
(arrowed)5.13 To detach the dust boot from the
steering knuckle, pry the lower lip of the
boot out of its groove in the knuckle
6.5 To detach the brake shield from the
steering knuckle, remove these three
screws (arrowed)6.4 To detach the ABS sensor from the
steering knuckle, remove this bolt
7.4 Remove these three Torx screws
(arrowed) and move the accumulator
assembly to the side a little to provide
clearance for pulling out the pivot bolt7.5 To detach the upper control arm from
the crossmember, remove the nut (at the
rear) and pull the bolt out from the front;
note the fitted order of the spacer washers
3261 Jaguar XJ6

and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Refit the special spring compressor tool
(JD115) as shown (see illustrations).
3Tighten the tool until the spacer is tight
against the spring pan, then remove the
spring pan bolts (see illustration).
4Slowly back off the wingnut on the special
tool until all tension is relieved from the spring.
Remove the tool, remove the pan, and remove
the coil spring.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Place the
coil spring in position with the spring pan
below it, refit the special tool and carefully
tighten the wingnut until the spring is
compressed enough to allow the pan to be
positioned and bolted to the lower control
arm. Be sure to tighten the pan bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
9 Lower control arm-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The lower control arms
cannot be removed without a
special spring compressor tool
(Jaguar tool JD115). Do not try to
remove a lower control arm without this
tool, or you could be seriously injured.1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the spring pan and the coil spring
(see Section 8).
3Detach the steering gear (see Section 17)
and lower it far enough to provide clearance
for the lower control arm pivot bolt.
4Remove the pivot bolt and nut (see
illustration). Note any washers behind the nut
and store them in a plastic bag.
5Remove the lower control arm.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit any washers removed. Raise the
suspension with the trolley jack to simulate
normal ride height, then tighten the pivot bolt
and nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Refer to Section 8 for coil
spring refitting.
10 Shock absorber/coil spring
(rear)- removal and refitting
3
Note 1: Always renew both left and right
shocks at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
Note 2:If you’re replacing the shock absorbers
on an earlier vehicle with the self-levelling
system, we strongly recommend (and so doesJaguar) that you renew the self-levelling units
with conventional units (available at the dealer
as a retrofit kit for older vehicles equipped with
the self-levelling system).
1Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Support the
control arm with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood on the jack head to serve as a cushion.
2If you are removing/replacing the shocks on
a vehicle equipped with the self-levelling rear
suspension system, depressurise the system
by pumping the brake pedal until it feels hard
to push (this dissipates the pressure inside the
accumulator), then locate the hydraulic line
valve block just in front of the upper end of the
left rear shock (see illustration). Attach a
plastic hose to the bleeder screw (see
illustration), put the other end of the hose in a
catch bottle, crack the bleeder and drain off
as much fluid as possible. Disconnect the
hydraulic line that connects the left shock to
the valve block. Now locate the other valve
block just in front of the right rear shock;
disconnect the hydraulic line that connects
the right shock to this valve block too.
3Remove the lower shock absorber-to-
control arm nut and bolt (see illustration).
4Remove the upper mounting bolts (see
illustration)and remove the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
9.4 To detach the lower control arm from
the crossmember, remove this nut and bolt
(arrowed) (unbolt and lower the steering
gear before you can pull out the pivot bolt)10.2a On a vehicle equipped with self-
levelling rear suspension, the valve block
(arrowed) for the left rear shock is located
just in front of the shock absorber10.2b After depressurising the system,
attach a bleed hose to the bleed screw on
the left valve block, open the bleed and
drain any residual fluid into a catch bottle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.2a When refitting the spring compressor
tool (JD115), insert the upper end of the
rod into the cross-shaped slot in the
suspension crossmember, then rotate the
rod 90° so this pin on the upper end of the
tool locks into the crossmember
8.2b This is how the spring compressor
tool (JD115) looks when it’s installed; note
how the offset collet is oriented so that it’s
flush with the coil spring pan8.3 To detach the coil spring pan from the
lower control arm, compress the spring
and remove these six bolts (arrowed)

5The shock/coil spring assemblies must be
dismantled, and the coil springs installed on
the new shocks. Although the shock/coil
spring assembly is similar in appearance to
the a MacPherson strut/coil spring assembly,
the spring on this unit is much stiffer.
Therefore, DO NOT attempt to take apart this
unit yourself with a strut spring compressor
tool. Instead, take the unit to a Jaguar dealer
service department or to a Jaguar specialist
workshop and have the springs installed on
the new shocks by professionals.6If you are retrofitting conventional shocks -
rather than refitting the same or another pair
of self-levelling shocks - unplug the electrical
connector at the ride height sensor, and fill
the connector with silicone (see illustration)
to prevent it from shorting out and causing
electrical problems. Then disconnect and
remove all hydraulic lines (see illustrations).
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8Remove the jack supporting the controlarm, refit the rear wheels and lower the
vehicle.
9Tighten the rear wheel nuts to the torque
listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
10If you retrofitted conventional shocks to a
vehicle formerly equipped with the self-
levelling rear suspension system, disconnect
the forward end of the hydraulic line from the
valve block and refit the plug included in the
kit (see illustrations). Then finish removing
the forward section of hydraulic line and the
brackets for the line (see illustration).
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
10
10.6a Where applicable, unplug the
connector to the ride height sensor and fill
the connector with silicone . . .10.6b . . . then disconnect and remove
both valve blocks . . .10.6c . . . and remove all associated
plumbing, including the metal line (arrow) to
the valve block in the engine compartment
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.3 To detach the bottom of the shock absorber/coil spring from
the control arm, remove this nut and bolt, then pull out the bolt
10.4 To detach the top of the shock absorber/coil spring from the
body, remove these bolts (arrowed) - not all bolts are visible here
10.10a After the vehicle has been lowered,
disconnect the forward end of the
hydraulic line from the valve block . . .10.10b . . . refit the plug included in the
retrofit kit . . .10.10c . . . then remove these bracket
screws (arrowed), the brackets and the
forward section of hydraulic line